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^YES'  HAND-BOO^ 


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NORTHERN 

^y  Pleasure  Travel 


TO  THE 


l^fOSTO^ WHITE  AND  PEAITCONIA  ^SH 


MOUNTAINS 


MI@>iNTAm-S: 


ERN    LAKES 


kl  and  Quebec.   ^ 


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LAKE     WINNIPESAUKEE. 


SENTER  HOUSE, 


eENTRE  HARBQR. 


SWITZERLAND  OF  AMERICA, 

Lake  and  Mountain  Region  of  New  Hampshire, 

♦♦♦ 

This  large  and  well-known  Summer  House  stands  on  a  slight  emi- 
nence at  the  head  of  the  Winnipesaiikee,  and  from  its  broad  piazzas 
(alone  of  all  the  hotels  in  this  region)  commands  a  clear  and  un- 
obstnicted  view  of  the  entire  length  of  this  wonderful  lake.  Its 
situation  for  picturesque  beauty  is  unequalled  in  New  England,  while 
the  charming  walks  and  drives  in  all  directions,  winding  am<'ng  the 
hills  and  skirting  the  shores  of  the  lake,  introduce  the  tourist  to  the 
mai-velous  scenery  of  the  surrounding  country,  sung  by  the  poet 
Whittier,  "  The  Heart  of  the  Highlands." 

First-class  Orchestra  in  constant  attendance  during  the  summer 
montlis.  New  Billiard  Rooms  and  Bowling  Alleys  have  lately  been 
added,  while  accommodations  for  boating,  fishing,  and  bathing,  are 
excelk'oir 

Large  Livery  Stable,  thoroughly  equipped  in  all  its  details,  con- 
nected with  the  H(Mel. 

Wishing  to  induce  travelers  to  visit  this  region  during  the  pleapant 
months  of  the  year,  liberal  discount  will  be  made  <l^t^g  JlilM».|uid 
September.  ^ 

""  "  a 


Routes  f rum  New  York  and  South. 

Passengers  taking  Sound  steamers  at  5.00  p.m.  arrive  at  Centre 
Harbor  at  1.00  P.M.  tlie  next  day—  Pullman  Drawing  Room  Cars,     I 
without  change,  from  Sound  steamers  to  WiMaipesaukee.  ' 

Routes  frt)m  Boston. 

Trains  twice  daily  over  three  distinct  routes,  without  change  of 
cars,  from 

Boston  &  Maine  R.R.  Station,       -       -       .       Haymarket  square. 
Boston  &  LoweU  R.R.  Station,     -       -       -       Causeway  street 
Eastern  R.R.  Station,         ....  «<  «« 


•1 


KEYES'  HAND-BOOK 


s. 


IE 


RT. 


uttrntammma 


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n 


fr-giYt:r:iiAND-B00K 

T. 

Northern  Pleasure  Travel: 


TH8 


Hiolory 
WHITE  AND  FRAKCONIA  MOUNTAINS, 

THE  GREEN  MOUNTAINS,  THE  NORTHERN  LAKES, 

MONTREAL  AND  QUEBEC. 


HOW    TO    REACH    THEM    BY    PLEASURE    ROUTES,   VIA    THE 

MERRIMACK    AND    CONNECTICUT    VALLEYS,   AND 

DIVERGING   LINES    OF   TRAVEL. 


"  Tlie  mountain  valley  is  a  vase, 
Wliioh  God  has  brinrme<l  with  rarest  grace; 
And,  kneeling  in  the  taintless  air, 
I  drink  celestial  blessings  there." 

— Alger, 


BOSTON: 
GEO.   L.   KEYES,    PRINTER,   4  WILLIAMS   COURT. 

1873. 


Entered  according  to  act  of  Congress.  In  the  year  1873,  by  Geo.  L.  Ketes, 
in  the  office  of  the  Librarian  of  Congress,  at  Wasliington, 


JAu  1  1  1S74 


IK"DEX. 


PAO« 

Alburgh  Springs IVJ 

AlhHi  Bay,  N.  H  40 

Aininonurtu  ;  Iliver 76 

Artist's  FalU l«7 

AMcent  of  Moiitit  Lifayette 70 

'•        Bald  Mountain 69 

'«        Red  Hill ....37 

••       C>>pi»!e  Crown 38 

"        Mount  Prospect 45 

"        Mowil.iuk 43 

"  Mr.  Wiishington..03,0ft,98 
"  Mt.  Washington  by  rail. .78 
"  Mt.  Wash,  by  carrl.  rM. . 98 
"  ••       "     brldlepatb.iW 

«       «'OwlsHead" 137 

Ascutney  Mountain 159 

Ashland,  N.  H 44 

Bartlett 92 

Basin ....71 

B.,C.  &  M.  R.  R 35 

Beecber's  Falls  Cascatle 86 

Bellows  Falls.  Vt . .  157 

Bethlehem,  N.  H 52 

Bjston,  routes  from 26,  28 

Biwton  &  Maine  R.E 28 

Boston  to  Canada^  routes 26,  28 

Boston  to  Mountains,  routes.   .26,  23 

Boston  to  Mt.  Wash.  Summit  route, 

via  Wins  road  &  Mountain  R.R.  53 

Bra4iford,Vt  160 

Bratnleboro',  Vt 157 

Brooks  House 157 

Burlington,  Vt 147 

Camel's  Hump  Mountain 146 

Cannon  Mountain 68 

Cascades,  Franconia  Mountains  .72 

Cathedral,  (^ueb  jc 122 

Cathedral  of  Notre  Dame 113 

Centre  Harbor,  N.  H 37 

Cherry  Mountain 59 

Chu  u}rua .107 

Claremont,  N.  H 158 

Colebrook,  N.  H 59 

Concord,  N.  H 30 

Concord  to  the  Mountains,  route.. 34 

Conway,  N.  H 102 

Conway,  North 103 

Conway  through  the  Notch 91 

Copple  Crown  Mountain 38 

Crawford  House 85 

Crawford  Notch 86 

Crawfords,  The 65 

Crystal  Cascade 96 

Dartmouth  College,  N.  H 159 

Devil's  Den 106 

Diana's  Bath 106 

Distancas 9 

Dixville  Notch 59 

Down  the  St.  Lawrence 114 

Eagle  Clitf. 67 

Eagle  Hotel 31 

Eastern  Railroad 103 

Bast  River 13 

Echo  Lake,  Franconia 68 

Echo  Lake,  North  Couway .105 


rxon 

Elevations 7 

Emerald  Pool 06 

F/ihvan  House •• 77 

Fail  River 20 

Falls,  Montmorencl 124 

"     Qlen  Ellis 07 

"     Atnmonusuc •.••77 

"     Harvard.... T3 

"     Qibbs 85 

"     Artist's 107 

'•     on  Vvalanche  Brook 89 

Flume,  Franconia  Notch 72 

•'       Crawford      "      39 

"       Dixville        "      60 

"       House,  Franconia 72 

Framlngham,  M  iss  19 

Franconia  Mountains 63 

Franconia,  N.  H 61 

Franconia  Notch ^ 

Fryeburg.  Me 107 

Girnet  Pojls 96 

Glen  House  and  Olon 91 

Crorham,  N.  H.  and  vicinity..  .00,  99 

Gorham  to  the  Notch 101 

Grand  Trunk  Railway 59 

Great  Gulf  Oi 

Greenfleld,  Mass 1-56 

Hartford,  Conn H 

Hell  Gate 13 

Hermit  Lake 97 

Historical  and  Descriptive 64 

Holyoke,  Mass 154 

Hotel  Tablet H 

Imp  Mountain 99 

Island  House 158 

Islands  of  Winnipesaukee  41 

Jackson  Falls 93 

Jackson,  N.  H. 92 

Jay's  Peak 139 

Jefferson  Hills 57 

Jeffer*K)n,  N.  H 101 

Lachine  Rapids. 114 

Laconia,  N.  H 35 

"  Lady  of  the  Lake"  boat 42 

Lake  Champlain 148 

Lake  Mempnremaj?og,  trip  on.. .  .136 

Lake  Village,  N.  H 36 

Lake  Winnipesaukee 41 

Lancaster  House 56 

Lancaster,  N.  H 54 

Lawrence,  Mass.  r .28 

Littleton,  N.  H 50 

"  "    Hotels 50 

Lonsj  Island  Sound 14 

Lowell,  Mass 26 

Magog,  Lake  Memphremagog  . . .  141 

Manchester,  N.  H 26 

Memphremagog  Lake 1.35 

]Mere<iIth  Village 44 

Merrimack  River 29 

Montcalm  House 124 

Montpelier,  Vt 142 

Montreal 108 

Montreal  House 108 

Moosehillock  Mouataln ^iS 


INDEX. 


PAOI 

Mount  A«lnin^ 1»1 

••      li«l ktiMi»  House 3<J 

••      Clay 101 

'*      }<  aves 101 

«•      JurterHon KM 

•'      M  iMliHon 101 

••      MansJleUI M4 

<«      MiiiiHtleM  liuuHO 143 

••      Moriah H»l 

"      IVabody 77 

"      IVuiijjewauBct 74 

*•      Suritiirtc 100 

Moui't  WiiBliiiigtun 61 

»'  •'  carriage  road.. I'X 

"  "  H(>u>o 8-' 

««  '«  In  winter 84 

M  ••  Kail  way 78 

««  *•  Steamer 40 

"  .  •'  Summit  view.. 82 

•'  "  the  descent.... K') 

Mt.  Willanl,  drive  to  summit  of..8>' 

New  llavfii,  Conn '-•> 

New  Lori(i<)ii,  Conn l'"> 

Newi)ort,  It.  1 3i' 

Newport,  Vt 133 

New  York  City 13 

New  York,  routes  from. .15, 17, 19,  '2A 

NortlitinilHjrlaud  Junction 5!) 

Norlliamiilun,  MaM l.')4 

North  Conway,  N.  H 103 

"  "     routes  to  and  from  103 

Nortliern  N.  H.  K.R 153 

Noi  wich,  Conn 10 

Notch,  Dixville 51) 

Notrli,  gates  of. b6 

Notcli,  pafsa^e  of 80 

Uake'tiCuif. 90 

Owls  Head  Mountain 137 

I'a^sumiKsic  Kiver  Kuilroud 130 

I'eabody  Kiver !»5 

Pemigewasset  House 45 

Pemigewasset  Kiver  and  Valley  ..47 

I'titjuaket  MountMin 104 

Plienix   House 32 

Pilot  Hills 100 

Pinkham  Notch 93 

Plains  of  Abraham IL'7 

Plattsburg,  N.  Y 149 

Plymouth,  N.  H  44 

Pool,  Franconia  Notcli 73 

Portland  &  Ogdei.sburg  R.R 131 

Potter  Place 159 

Preface 5 

Piotile  House  andvicinitv 66 

Profile  Mountain  and  Lake 70 

Profile  (stone  face) 63,  69 

Providence,  R.  1 21 

Quebec 118 

Randolph  Hill 99 

KedHiil 37 

Richmond,  P.  Q 117 

Rocky  Point,  R.  1 22 

Routes,  all  rail 21,  24,  26,  28 

Routes,  boat  aud  rail 15, 17 


Rutlnnd,  Vt KVl 

Saco  HIver 86 

Saco  Valley 92 

Sngncnny  River 12H 

Sawyer's  Hock 92 

Bebiigo  Liike 109 

Sent cr  I louHe 37 

Silver  Caocaile 89 

Snj  uggler's  Notch 146 

Sounifsteamers 13 

South  Eastern  Railway 141 

South  Vernon 156 

S|iringtie1d,  Masf> 24 

S<|uam  Lake 47 

Starr  King  Mountain 59 

St.  Albans,  Vt 150 

Steamer  "  I^Jidy  (»f  the  Lake" 42 

St.  .lohnhbury,  Vt 131 

St.  Lawrence  River 114 

Stowe,  Vt 143 

Sugar  River  Railroad 158 

Suniniit  House 82 

Sunnvside  House 57 

Thompson's  Falls 06 

Tip-Top  Hou«e 82 

Trotter  House,  Bradford,  Vt 160 

Tmkerman's  Ravine 96 

Twin  Mountain  House 75 

Vernumt  Central  Railroad 142 

Victoria  Bridge Ill 

Views  from  Moosehillock  Summit  48 

"  Mount  Relknnp 36 

"  Mount  Washington. ,  .'.82 

"  Mount  Pcquaket 105 

"  Pro8i)ect  Hill 45 

"  Red  Hill 37 

View  of  the  pi  otile 69 

AValker'8  Falls 71 

Warren,  N.  H 48 

Waterbury,  Vt Hg 

Waterbury  House 143 

Waumbek  House 57 

Weirs  (Lake  Station) 37 

Welden  House.  St.  Albans 151 

Wells  River.  Vt 160 

Whitetield,  N.  H 53 

White  IVIountains,  general  view.  ...61 

White  Mountain  House 76 

White  Mountain  Le«lges 105 

White  Mountain  Notch 86 

White  River  Junction 159 

Willev  House 88 

AVilloughby  l.ake 132 

Winds(»r,  Vt 159 

Wing  Railway 52 

Winnipesaukee  Lake 41 

Winooski,  Vt 147 

AV inter  above  the  Clouds 84 

Wolf  borough 38 

Wolfborough  Hotels 39 

Wolfe,  General 127 

Worcester 26 

Your  Outfit 6 


PREFACE. 


The  object  of  this  Hand-Book  Is  to  give  the  traveler  or  tourist, 
who  wisely  spends  his  summer  vacation  among  the  grand  old 
hills  and  gleaming  lakes  of  northern  New  England,  such 
description  of  attractive  routes  to  the  mountains,  the  lakes  and 
the  Canadian  cities,  and  information  regarding  important  points 
and  localities,  either  of  trade,  of  picturesque  scenery,  or  of 
historic  interest,  as  will  insure  the  preservation  of  this  volume, 
for  its  plain  merits  as  a  guide,  and  invite  perusal  for  its  brief  and 
truthful  pictures  of  the  romantic  region,  where  thousands  seek 
and  find  a  blessing  in  the  calm  repose  of  great  hills  and  the  song 
and  laughter  of  mountain  streams. 

Not  seeking  or  expecting  to  supplant  the  peculiar  excellence 
and  rare  merit  of  the  elaborate  works  of  predecessors,  we  admit, 
with  special  pleasure,  the  value  of  Eastman's  "White  Mountain 
Guide  Book,"  the  rare  literary  merit  and  truthful  and  poetic 
description  in  Starr  King's  "White  Hills,"  Willey's  "Sketches  of 
White  Mountain  History,"  and  Burt's  "Connecticut  Valley 
Guide."  The  valuable  aid  of  these  and  other  works  is  gratefully 
acknowledged. 


'o* 


Boston,  Jane  1873. 


TOUE  OUTFIT. 


If  you  are  a  genuine  pedestrian,  and  intent  on  near  personal 
contact  with  nature  in  the  nooks  and  by-ways,  or  on  crags  and 
ledges,  through  forests,  along  the  channels  of  streams  or  on  wind- 
swept summits,  or  if  you  are  inclined  to  sporting,  be  first  sub- 
stantially and  firmly  shod,  and  make  ample  provision  against  the 
cold  of  high  altitudes  and  dashing  mountain  showers,  by  ap- 
propriate clothing  in  reserve,  the  quality  and  quantity  of  which 
your  own  good  sense  will  regulate.  Reduce  the  bulk  of  your 
baggage  as  near  as  may  be  to  the  necessities  of  the  tour,  avoid 
patent-leather  and  broad-brims,  and  "take  money  in  thy  purse," 
for  there  is  rare  recompense  for  its  expenditure  among  the  hills. 


ELEVATIONS  ABOVE  SEA  LEVEL: 


FRANCONIA    MOUNTAINS. 

Mount  Lafayette, 5,000  feeU 

Mount  Cannon,  or  Profile  Mountain,       -       -       -  3,500  ** 

MoosUauk, 4,636  " 

THE    WHITE    MOUNTAINS. 

Mount  Washington, 6,285  feet. 

Mount  Jefferson, 5,700  '* 

Mount  Adams,  -.-----  5,800 

Mount  Munroe,         -------  6,400 

Iklount  Madison,        -------  5,400 

Mount  Clay,  5,400 

Mount  Franklin, 4,900 

Mount  Pleasant, 4,800 

Mount  Clinton,         ----*---  4,200 

Mount  Jackson,        -------  4,100 

Mount  Webster, 4,000 


(< 

M 
(( 
(( 
(( 
(( 
it 
it 


Mount  Carter, 5,000  feet. 

Mount  Moriah,         -        ------  4,700 

Mount  Hayes,     --------  2,500 

Pequaket  or  Kiarsarge  (at  North  Conway),     -       -  3,367 

Chucorua,          --------  3,358 

Mount  Prospect  (near  Plymouth),    -       -       -       -  2,968 

Eed  Hill  (near  Centre  Harbor),        -       -       .       -  2,500 

Copple  Crown  Mount  (near  Wolfborough),      -       -  2,100 

Alpine  House — Gorham,          -----  802 

Bethlehem,        --------  1,450 

Crawford  House, 1,920 

Fabyan  House,          -       -        -       -       -       -       -  1,551 

Flume  House,            -  1,431 

Glen  House, 1,632 

Profile  House, — Franconia  Notch,    -       -       -       -  1,974 

Willey  House,— White  Mountain  Notch,          -       -  1,3:35 

Wiuuipesaukee  Lake,       -       -       -.      -       -       -  496 


8  ELETATIONS. 

Pinkham  Notch,  (highest  point),       -       -       -       -  2,018  feet. 

Fraiiconia  Notch,  (highest  point),     -       -       -        -  2,014  " 

Plyinoutli, 473  " 

Lancaster, '  -       -       -  8(>0  " 

Littleton, 817   " 

Conway  Intervales,           -       -       -        -       -        -  171" 

Concord,  N.  H.,  Depot,    - 230  " 

MOUNTAINS  IN  VERMONT. 

Mount  M'ansfleld, 4,348  feet. 

Camel's  Hump, 4,083  '' 

Jay  Peak, 4,018  " 

Mount  Willoughby, 3,800  " 

Ascutney,  (near  Windsor),       -----  3,320  " 

MOUNTAINS  IN  CANADA.      . 

Owl's  Head,  near  Lake  Memphremagog,         -       -  2,740  feet. 

Mount  Orford,           -       -       -       -      '-        -       -  3,300  " 

Lake  Cliamplain,       -       -       -       -       -       -        -  '  90   '* 

Lake  Meraphremagog,      ----._  ^34   <» 

Lake  Willoughby,            -       -       -               -       -  1 1G2  " 


DISTANCES 


VIA  BOSTON,  CONCORD  AND  MONTREAL  RAILROAD. 

From  Concord.  FromBoeton. 

To  MileH.  Milei* 

Northfleld,  :Nr.  H., 13  87 

Tilton,  N.  II., 18  92 

Laconia,  N.  H., 27  101 

Lake  Village,  N  H., 29  103 

Weirs — Lake  Winnipesaukee  Station,   -        -  34  108 

Centre  Harbor — 10  miles  bv  boat,          -        -  44  118 

Wollboroiigh— 17  miles  by  boat,     -        -        -  51  119 
North  Conway — via  Centre  Harbor,  by  boat, 

stage  and  rail,          -----  75  149 

Meredith  Village,  N.  H.,        -        -       -       -  38  112 

Ashland,  N.H., 46  120 

Plymonth,  N".  H., 51  125 

Rumney,  N.  H., 59  133 

West  Rumney,  N.  H.,             -        .       -       -  e>2  136 

Wentworth,  N.  H., 67  141 

Warren,  N.H.,       ------  70  144 

Haverhill,  X.  H.,            85  159 

Woodsville,  -  r.  H , 93  167 

Wells   River,  Vermont  (junction  with  Pas- 

"  sumpsic  and  Montpelier  Railways),         -  93^  167^ 

Bath,  N.  H„           -       -       -       -       -       -  98  172 

Lisbon,  N.  H., 104  178 

Littleton — 1 1  miles  staging  from  this  point  to 

Profile  House, 113  ^Sl 

Wing  Road  (diverges  from  Main  line),           -  119  193 
Bethlehem  (on  Wing  Railroad;,             -       -  125  199 
Twin  Mountain  House  Station,  (present  ter- 
minus Wing  Road),         -        -       -       -  129  203 

Whitefield,  X.  H., 125  199 

Dalton,  N.  H., 129      *  203 

Lancaster,  N.  H., 135  209 

Northumberland,  N.  H.  (junction  with  Grand 

Trunk  Railway),      1       -        -       -       -  145  219 
North  Stratford,  N.  H.,  (on  Grand  Trunk 

line), 158  232 


10  DISTANCE   TABLE, 

To.  Milef.  Milei. 

Sherbrooke,  P.  Q.  (on  Grand  Trunk  junctiou 

with  Passumpsic), 219  293 

Riclnnond,  P.  Q.  (on  Grand  Trunk  junction 

witli  Quebec  division),    -       -       -       -  244  318 

Montreal, 320  394 

Quebec,  via  Northumberland,        -       -       -  340  414 

Montpelier,  Vt.,  (via  Wells   River   and  new 

line  to    Montpelier,  nearly  completed),  132  206 

Waterbury,   Vt,  (via    Wells    lliver,    stage 

for  Stowe,  Vt.,) 140  214 

Stowe,  VL,  (10  miles  staging  from  Water- 
bury),      150  224 

Newport,  Vt.,  (via  Passumpsic  Railroad  from 

Wells  River), 158  232 

Lake  Meinphremagog,   -----  158  232 

Essex  Junction,  Vt., 1G2  236 

Burlington,  Vt., 108  242 


HOTEL  TABLET. 


Ploce. 

Andover.  Mass., 
Athol  Depor,  Maw*., 
Alhiirgb  Springs,  Vt., 
Boston,  INIjt^B.. 
Bellows  Falls,  Vt., 
liurlington,  Vt., 
Bradford,  Vr., 
Brandon,  Vt., 
lirattinboro,  Vt., 
Biddeford,  Me., 
Centre  Harbor,  N.  H. 
Castleton,  Vt., 
Concc-d,  N.  H., 

Clarendon  Springs,  Vt., 

Caldwell,  N.  Y., 

East  Providence,  R.  I., 

Fort  Edward,  N.  Y., 

Fitihburg,  Mass., 

Fitzwilliams.  N.  H., 

Great  Fall?,  N.  H., 

Hoo.«ac  Tunr.el,  Mass., 

Hampton,  N.  H., 

Lvndonville,  Vt., 

Lake  Village,  Vt., 

Lawrence,  Mass., 

Laconia,  N.  H,, 

Lennoxville,  P.  Q., 

Manchester,  N.  H., 

Montreal,  P.  Q., 

Meredith,  N.  H., 

Milford,  Mass., 

Middleboro,  Vt., 

Montpelier,  Vt., 

Newport,  Vt., 

North  Adams,  Mass., 

Newport,  N.  H., 

Newbury  port,  Maw., 

New  Bedford,  IVi  ass., 

Pittstield,  N.  H., 

Plattsburg,  N.  Y., 

Providence,  K.  I., 

Portsmouth,  N.  H., 

Peteiboro,  N.  H., 

Pittbford,  Vt., 

Quebec,  P.  Q., 
.•         (i 

Rochester,  N.  R., 
Rutland,  Vt. 
Kocky  Point,  R,  I., 


Name. 

Mansion  House, 
Peaquoig  House, 
Alburgh  Springs  House, 
Clarendon  Hotel, 
Island  House, 
American  House, 
Trotter  House, 
Brandon  House, 
Brooks  House, 
Biddefonl  House, 
Senter  House, 
Lake  Bomoseen  House, 
Phenlx  Hotel, 
Eagle  Hotel, 
Clarendon  House, 
Ft.  Wm.  Henry  Hotel, 
Riverside  Hotel. 
St.  James  Hotel, 
American  House, 
Cheshire  House, 
Granite  State  Hotel, 
Hoosac  House, 
Union  House, 
Walker  House, 
Mount  Belknap  House, 
Franklin  House, 
Laconia  House, 
Buck's  Hotel, 
National  Hotel, 
Montreal  House, 
Prospect  House, 
Milford  House, 
Addison  House, 
Pavilion  Hotel, 
Memphremagog  House, 
Ballou  House, 
Phenix  Hotel, 
Merrimac  House, 
Parker  House, 
Washington  House, 
Fouq net's  Hotel, 
City  Hotel, 
Rockingham  House, 
French's  Hotel, 
Otter  Creek  House, 
St.  Louis  Hotel. 
Clarendon  Hotel, 
Dodge's  Hotel, 
Berwick  House, 
Rocky  Point  Hotel, 


Prop,  and  Man. 

Charles  L.  Carter. 
A.  Bangs. 
H.  H.  Howe. 
J.  Pickering  Draper. 
S.  C.Fleming. 
Crane  »Sc  Stacy. 
H.  E.  Harris. 
R.  Deming. 
Charles  G.  Lawrence. 
J.  C.  Fobbins. 
J.  L.  Huntress. 
L.  Collins. 
J.  R.  Crocker. 
John  A.White. 
B.  Murray. 
J.  Rocssle  &  Son. 
Hopkins  &  Sears. 
J,  N.  Moore. 
W.  F.  Day  &  Co. 
O.  K.  Wlieelock, 
R.  H.  Hussey. 
r.  E.  Locke. 
Smith  &  Whittier. 
G.  B.  Walker. 
D.  B.  Story. 
T.  W.  Huse. 
W.  C.  Wylie. 

F.  P.  Buck. 
A.  C.  Wallace. 
Decker  &  Co. 

G.  M.  Burleigh. 
Hapgood  Brothers. 
Darwin  Ryder. 

R.  T.  Aldricli. 
W.  F.  Bowman. 
M.  Ballou  &  Sons. 
J.  H,  Brown. 
Geo.  Montgomery. 
Bullock  &  Brownell. 
T.  B.  Tucker. 
L.  M.  Fouquet. 
L.  H.  Hnmphrev. 
G.  W.  &  J.  S.  Pierce. 
C.  E.  Robinson. 
S.  S.  Scotield. 
Willis  Russell. 

J.  T.  Dodge. 

M.  K.  Hotchkiss, 

L.  H.  Humpluey. 


/. 


12 


HOTEL   TABLET. 


Place. 
SftllBburv.  Vt., 
Samly  U\\,  N.  Y., 
Stowe.Vt., 
South  Vernon,  Vt., 
Slt©rbn>oke,  I*.  Q., 


«< 


SpringfieM,  Mass., 
Saratoga  Springs,  N.  Y. 


t( 

■     u-  ' 

4( 

« 

(1 

M 

II 

M 

II 

II 

II 

M 

It 

II 

Virgenncs 

Winooaki, 

"VNolfboro, 
« 

II 

Vt., 

vt., 

N.  H., 
II 

■Williamsfown,  Mags., 
"NVincbendm,  Mass., 
Wells  River,  Vt., 
WoonscK'ket,  R.  I., 
White  River  June,  Vt., 
West  Rutland,  Vt., 


Nome. 

Lake  Diinniore  Hotel, 
Cottee  H<>iu*e, 
Mt.  Maiif-tteld  Hotel, 
South  Vernon  House, 
Continental  Hotel, 
Clark'h  Hotel, 
Sherl>rot)ke  House, 
Magog  House, 
Massasoit  House, 
Congress  ILill, 
American  Hole!, 
Arlington  House, 
Columbian  Hotel, 
Continental  Hotel, 
Grand  Hotel, 
Union  Hotel, 
Clarendon  Hotel, 
Stevens  House, 
Stevens  House, 
Pavilion  Hotel, 
Glenden  Hotel, 
Belvue  House, 
Greylock  Hall, 
Moiiadnock  House, 

Monument  House, 
Junction  House, 
Barnes  House, 


Prop,  and  Mon. 

E.  P.  Hitiluock. 
N.  W.Clark. 
N.  P.  Keeler. 
D.  L.  Priest. 
P.  A.  Cam i rand. 
Stephen  Clark. 
W.  Chamberlain. 
H.  S.  Helpburn. 

Hathorn  &  SouthirHte. 
BnJimeti&  McCaftVey. 
Campbell  &  Shaw. 
1).  O.  I)o<lge. 
Adams  &  Mason. 
Col.  W.  W.  Inland  &  Co. 
Breslin,  Card  tier  &  Co. 
Charles  E.  Iceland, 
C.  T.  &  C.  O.  Stfevens. 
A.  R.  Pike. 
E.Stanton. 
J.  L.  Peavey. 
Daniel  Horn. 
Streeter&  Swift. 
H.  A.  Crocker. 
M.  G.  Slack. 
L.  W.  Klliot. 
A.  T.  &  O.  F.  Barron. 
J.  H.  Hazelton. 


WHITE  MOUNTAIN  HOTELS. 


Bethlehem,  N.  H., 
Carroll,  N.  H., 


« 

>< 

II 

<i 

i( 

(( 

Conway, 

N. 

H., 

Franconia  Notch,  N.  H 
Jefterson,  N.  H., 

Lanca.««tor,  X.  H., 
Littleton,  N.  H., 


ort 

UCon 

way,  N.  H., 

« 

«          II 

« 

1*                M 

It 

II               M 

Plymouth,  N.  H., 
West  Ossipe^.  N.  H., 
Warren,  N.H. 
GorLam,  N.  H. 


Sinclair  House, 

Fabyan  House, 

White  Mountain  House 
Twin  Mountain  House, 

Crawford  House, 

Conway  House, 

Pequaket  House, 
,  Profile  House, 

Wauml>ek  House, 

Jeflt'erson  Hill  House, 

Lancaster  House, 

Oak  Hill  House, 

LTnion  House, 

Mason's  Hotel, 

Randall  House, 

Intervale  House 

McMillan  House, 

Sunset  Pavilion, 

Pemigewasset  House, 

Banks  House, 

Moosilauk,  House, 

Gleu  House, 


D.  W.  Ranlet. 

Walcott,  Lindsay  «&  French 

,  RounsTel  &  Co. 

A.  T.  &  O.  F.  Barron. 

L.  H.  Eastman. 
I>.  E.  Pendexter. 
Taft  &  Greeiileaf. 
Merrill  &  Plaisted. 
Roby  &  Bedell. 

B.  H.  Corning. 

C.  C.  Knapp. 
W.  Jenniij'On. 
F.  H.  Mason. 
J.  T.  Randall. 
Mudgeit  &  Eastman, 
Jolm  McMillan. 

M.  L.  Mason. 

C.  M.  Morse. 

J.  L.  Plummer, 

D.  G.  Mai-sh. 

J.  ?L  Thompson  &  Co. 


f 


THE  STAET  FROM  NEW  YORK. 


Leaving  New  York  city  by  either  line  of  tlie  ina^iflcent 
Sound  steamei-s,  from  Nortli  River,  glancing  dov,  n  the  grind 
harbor,  and  rounding  the  southern  extremity  of  Manhattan.  Is- 
land, the  once  fashionable  and  central  locality  of  the  Battery" 
and  Castle  Garden  attract  attention,  with  the  circular  swell 
ot  Governor's  Island,  once,  no  doubt,  a  portion  of  Long  Is- 
land, the  frowning  guns  of  Ciistle  William,  the  South  Battery, 
and  the  waters  of  Buttermilk  Channel,  all  of  noticeable  hnport- 
ance,  in  the  growth  and  life  of  the  great  metropolis,  or  fi'om  his- 
torical associations  claiming  attention  as  you  proceed. 

Passing  along  East  River  the  track  of  the  steamer  crosses  the 
line  of  the  Brooklyn  ferries  and  between  the  piers  of  the  im- 
mense bridge,  now  constructing,  to  unite  the  City  of  Churches 
with  New  York.  Upon  the  left,  in  full  view,  is  the  great  city. 
60  changed  since  the  days  when  good  Heinrich  Hudson  founded 
the  Dutch  town  of  "Nieuw  Amsterdam," — the  embryo  New 
York, —  and  the  Dutch  Commodore  Van  Cortland  sailed  through 
this  same  river  into  the  perils  of  Hell  Gate.  Along  the  city's 
water  front  are  acres  of  sailing  craft  from  every  quarter,  with 
the  products  of  the  soil,  of  mines,  and  the  industries  of  the 
world;  to  the  right,  the  heights  and  elegant  residences  of 
Brooklyn,  where,  also,  are  the  United  States  Docks  and  Navy 
Yard  of  this  the  great  naval  station  of  the  country.  Black- 
well's  Island,  a  long,  narrow  strip  of  land,  lying  along  the 
centre  of  the  river,  attracts  attention,  as  the  spot  where  are 
located  the  reformatory,  charitable,  and  corrective  institutions  of 

m 

the  metropolis. 

Hell  Gate  is  a  narrow  and  tortuous  passage,  six  miles  from 
New  York,  where,  during  the  rise  and  fall  ol  tides,  the  waters 


U  THE   START   FROM   NEW   YORK. 

from  the  Sound  arc  lashed  Into  seething  commotion.  The  rocks 
and  whirlpools  are  designated  by  the  musical  names  of  "  The 
Gridiron,"  **The  Frying  Pan,"  "Pot  Rock,"  "Pot  Cove,"  "Ilog's 
Back,"  etc.  Passing  Ward's  and  Randall's  Island,  Port  Morris 
and  Flushing,  at  "  Throgg's  Neck,"  thirteen  miles  from  New 
York,  on  which  is  Fort  Schuyler,  with  three  hundred  guns,  we 
enter  the  waters  of 

LONG  ISLAND  SOUND, 

This  iflland  highway  for  navigation  between  New  England  and 
the  great  centre  of  national  commerce  and  trade,  is  about  one 
hundred  and  ten  miles  in  length,  from  twenty  to  thirty  miles 
wide  in  its  central  and  broadest  waters,  and  is  navigable  lor  the 
largest  vessels.  The  northern  shore  has  an  irregular  coast  line, 
giving  harbor  facilities  which  are  the  sure  nurseries  of  thriving 
towns,  and  naturally  leading  to  commercial  activity. 

We  are  now  fairly  launched  upon  our  way,  and,  if  the  night  is 
fine,  a  jovial,  happy  crowd,  who  have  left  their  cares  behind,  and 
with  them  the  restraints  of  metropolitan  life,  promenade  the 
decks.  Soft  strains  of  music,  nowhere  so  sweet  as  out  upon  the 
waters,  on  some  of  these  fine  boats,  cheer  the  admiring  passen- 
gers, and 

♦ 

"All  goes  merry  as  a  marriage  bell." 

But,  one  by  one,  the  crowd  drop  off  for  needed  rest.  At  waking 
we  will  take  a  comprehensive  view  of  the  routes  by  which  we  are 
to  proceed. 


ROUTE. 

From  New  York  to  Concord,  N.  It. 

By  Boat  and  Rail  from  New  York  by  tub  Norwich 
Line  of  Sveamers,  via  Worcester  and  Nashua. 

These  fine  boats,  "City  of  New  York"  and  "City  of  Boston," 


16  TIA  NORWICH. 

leave  Pier  N"©.  40,  North  Klver,  at  5  o'clock  p.  M.    Tlir  ^  '"»ve  a. 
the  appointments  and  conveniencies  to  be  found  upou  ^'t  .U 

of  any  inland  waters,  passing  in  full  view  of  the  great  city,  me 
surrounding  objects  of  interest  and  tne  suburban  towns  along 
the  Long  Island  shore,  more  fully  described  in  the  opening 
pages.  Passengers  by  this  route  incur  little  risk  from  storms  or 
inconvenience  from  rough  weather,  arriving  at  New  London  at 
4.00  A.  M.,  thence  by  the  Norwich  and  Worcester  Railway,  with 
eleput  parlor  cars,  which  are  not  excelled,  if  equalled,  on  any 


•*UiTY   OF  WuKCJiHTKR." 

railway  line,  to  Worcester,  the  heart  of  the  Commonwoalth, 
(receiving  at  this  point  the  travel  centreing  here  from  converg- 
ing roads),  and,  after  taking  time  for  breakfast,  proceed,  via 
AYtR's  JuKCTioN,  (coDLccliug  there  with  train  from  Fitchburg,) 
to  Nashua  and  Manchester  along  the  valley  of  the  Mernmac 
Kiver,  (receiving  at  Manchester  passengers  from  Portsmouth 
and  the  East) ;  thence  to  Concord,  N.  H.,  from  which  point  the 
route  to  the  mountains  is  fully  described  in  the  following  pages. 

Note. — New  London,  tbree  miles  from  the  mouth  of  the  Thames  River, 
has  become  of  late  years  a  fashionable  summer  resort.  The  surrounding 
scenery  is  attractive  and  picturesque,  and  the  harbor  the  best  on  the  Sound, 
and  one  of  the  best  in  the  country,  enclosed  by  hills  and  guarded  at  the  en- 
trance by  grim  Fort  Trumbull.  In  the  palmy  days  of  whale  Ashing  this 
was  second  only  to  New  Bedford  in  that  interest.  The  Custom  House  and 
City  Buildings  are  substantial  structures.  Banking  facilities  and  manu- 
facturing interests  are  important,  and  the  e&rly  history  of  the  town  is  of 
rare  interest. 

Norwich  is  at  the  head  of  navigation  on  the  Thames  Hirer,  thirteen 
miles  from  New  London.  The  location  is  commanding,  built  upon  the 
steep  hillside,  lying  between  the  lirers  which  unite  to  form  the  Thames. 
The  manufacturing  portion  of  the  town  is  in  a  valley  enclosed  by  hills. 
Cottons,  woolens,  paper  and  machinery  are  the  chief  products.  The  terri- 
tory comprised  in  the  town  was  purchased  of  Uncas  and  his  sons  for  the 
sum  of  seventy  pounds.  A  large  banking  and  insurance  business  is  car- 
ried on  at  this  place.  The  **  Falls  of  the  Yantic  "  are  about  a  mile  from  its 
outlet,  and  should  be  visited  by  those  who  tarry  here. 


f 


r.OUTE. 

From  New  York  to  Concord ^  N,  FT. 

By  Boat   and  Rail  From   Nkw  Yokk  via  Fall   River 

Line  of  Steamfhs.  • 

Startini?  at  5  o'clock  r.M.  from  Now  York,  Piers  No.  28  nin\  30, 
jlonh  River,  these  iJaliUial  boats— the  fluest  that  float  upon  iii- 


'•A 

2 


< 

as 

V3 


18 


BOUTE  FROM  NEW  YORK  TO  CONCORD,  N.  H. 


laiKl  waters— the  "Bhihtoi"  and  "Providenck,"  each  fur- 
rjij«he(l  with  an  excellent  hand  of  music  durlug  tht;  8ea.son 
of  summer  travel,  with   large  Btuterooins   li;?hted  by  gan,  will 


'A 
A 

> 


03 


'A 
H 

Ed 
O 

o 

o 

A 


proceed  through  the  whole  length  of  the  Sound  and  Nanagan- 
sett  Bay,  affording  the  fine  views  of  the  metropolis  and  surround- 
ings described  in  the  preceding  pages,  giving  a  longer  sail  and 
less  distance  by  rail,  with  same  time  and  fare,  as  other  routes, 
and  arrive  at  Fall  River — the  champion  manufacturing  oity  ot 
New  England— on  Mount  Hope  Bay,  an  arm  of  Narragansett 


VIA    FALL    RIVER. 


19 


liay,  at  the  confluence  of  Tuunton  and  Fall  Rivers,  at  alniut 
4  o'clock  A.M. 

Passengers  are  called  for  breakfjist  at  5 J  o*clock;  after  lircak- 
lusting,  take  the  line  parlor  car 


*Tl,ymoutu"  or  "Newport," 

or  the  elegant  monitor  top  cars  of  this  line,  and  proceed  by 
express  train,  stopping  only  at  important  points,  to  Concord, 
Lake  Winnipesaukee,  Plymouth,  Littleton,  (from  here  to  ProtUe 
House  by  stage),  Bethlehem,  Twin  MounUiin  Station  (nearest  to 
Mount  Washington  and  Crawford  House  at  the  Notch,)  the 
new  Fabyan  Place,  Crawford  House  and  Mount  Washington 
House  on  summit  of  Mount  Washington,  or  to  Lancaster  (stage 
from  here  to  Jefferson  Hill)  and  Northumberland — -junction  with 
Graud  Trunk  Railway  for  Montreal  or  Quebec. 


Note.— This  train  receives  at  Taunton  passengers  from  New  Bedford  and 
Cape  Cod  Railroads;  at  Mansfield  connects  witli  train  from  Provitlence 
and  Shore  Line  from  New  York;  at  Framinoham  with  train  from  New 
York,  via  Hartford  and  Springfield;  tlience  over  the  Framingham  and 
Lowell  Railroad  to  Acton,  and  from  thence  to  Nashua  by  the  New  Nashua 
and  Acton  railway  just  opened  to  public  travel.  This  new  road  is  built  in 
the  most  thorough  manner ;  the  cars  are  new,  and  built  with  all  the  modern 
improvements  and  conveniences  with  reference  to  the  comfort  and  safety 
of  patrons.  The  road  passes  through  a  series  of  thriving  interior  towns, 
and  is  an  important  link  in  the  through  line  from  New  York  and  Provi- 
dence to  Northern  New  England,  connecting  at  Nashua  with  the  through 
express  trains  for  the  north,  (no  change  of  cars),  proceeding  through  Man- 
chester (receiving  at  Manchester  passengers  from  Portsmouth  and  the  east), 
and  continuing  through  the  valley  of  the  Merrimack  to  Concord,  N.  H., 


20    ROUTE  FKOM  NEW  YORK  TO  CONCORD,  N.  H. 

from  which  point  the  route  to  the  lake  and  mountains  is  fully  described  in 
]>age8  following. 

Passengers  who  stop  for  any  length  of  time  at  Fall  Rive  r  will  not  lose  the 
fine  view  ftrom  the  hill  near  the  city.  Looking  across  the  Bay,  Mt.  Hope  is 
seen,  memorable  as  the  home  of  King  Pliillip.  This  city  is  fast  becoming, 
if  it  is  not  already,  the  leading  manufacturing  city  of  X«w  England.  Steam 
power  has  taken  the  place-  of  water.  Granite  quarries  in  the  vicinity  are 
valuable,  and  the  quarrying  of  building  stone  is  an  imi)ortant  interest. 
The  famous  Dighton  Rock  is  not  far  distant,  with  its  mysterious  inscripiious 
yet  unsolved. 


EOUTE. 

From  New  York  to  Concord,  N.  H, 
All  Rail  Route  from  New  York  to  the   Mountains. 

Leave  New  York  via  Shore  Line  from  the  Grand  Central 
Station  Forty-Second  street,  at  8  o'clock  p.  m.,  via  New  York  and 
New  Haven  Railroad,  proceeding  by  express  train,  in  Wagner's 
Sleeping  Cars,  via  Bridgeport,  New  Haven,  New  London, 
Stonington  and  Providence,  along  the  shore  of  Long  Island 
Sound  and  Narragansett  Bay,  an  exceedingly  pleasant  route,  with 
no  vexatious  delays,  and  superior  accommodations  for  comfort, 
through  a  net  work  of  thriving  towns  and  cities  (of  which  the 
space  of  our  hand-book  does  not  permit  description).  The  route 
is  noticeable  for  its  coolness  and  freedom  from  dust. 

Taking  ample  time  for  rest  in  the  fine  reception  rooms,  and  for 
breakfast  in  the  depot  dining  rooms  at  Providence,  leave  that 
point  by  the  express  train  at  0.15  A.  m.,  via  Mansfield,  Framing- 
ham,  (connecting  with  train  from  New  York  via  Springfield,) 
Lowell  (uniting  here  with  train  from  Boston  and  Salem,  no  change 
of  cars,)  or  6.05  a.  m.,  via  Providence  and  Worcester  Railroad, 
via  Worcester  and  Clinton;  thence  to  Nashua,  Manchester,  and 
along  the  Merrimack  Valley  to  Concord,  N.  H.,  from  which 
point  the  route  to  the  Lake  and  Mountains  is  described  in  the 
succeeding  pages. 

Note.— Providence  is  the  principal  port  of  entry  and  one  of  the  capital 
cities  of  Rliode  Island,  and  is  the  second  city  in  population  and  wealth  in 
New  England.  The  location  is  upon  both  sides  of  Providence  river,  which  is 
crossed  by  wide  and  commodions  bridges.  Its  first  settlement  in  1636,  by 
Roger  Williams— exiled  from  Mass.  for  religious  heresies— is  too  familiar  to 
need  repetition.  The  rock  on  which  he  landed  on  the  bank  of  Seconk  river 
is  still  pointed  out.  The  City  Hotel  is  a  first  class  house  where  every  com- 
fort is  pro\ided,  L.  H.  Humphreys,  proprietor. 

Brown  University  is  one  of  the  noted  Colleges  of  the  country,  and  the 
Educational  and  Charitable  Institutions  of  the  city  are  numerous,  and 
liberally  endowed.  An  extensive  network  of  railroads  terminate  here,  hav- 
ing a  ceuti-al  station  in  the  heart  of  the  city,  and  steamers  run  to  Bristol, 


22    ROUTE  FROM  NEW  YORK  TO  CONCORD,  N.  H. 

Newport,  Fall  River,  Warwick,  Rocky  Point  and  various  places  on  Narra- 
ganeett  Bay.    A  sail  down  the  bay,  or  at  least  to 

Rocky  Point, 

should  not  be  omitted.  This  point,  owned  by  the  American  Steamboat 
Company,  has  a  national  fame  as  the  place  of  all  others  in  this  vicinity  for 
attractiveness  to  pleasure  seekers.  It  is  visited  by  thousands  each  year,  and 
the  combination  of  unequalled  natural  features,  of  wild  and  massive  rocks, 
caves  and  passages,  with  facilities  for  furnishing  all  creature  comforts 
and  desirable  amusements,  make  it  the  favorite  point  for  escape  from  the 
heat  and  turmoil  of  the  city.  Rocky  Point  Hotel,  under  the  management 
of  L.  H.  Humphreys,  Esq.,  and  competent  assistants,  it  is  calculated  will 
accommodate  seven  hundred  persons,  seat  at  once  in  its  dining-room  fifteen, 
hundred  people,  thus  enabling  the  proprietor  to  provide  dinners  for  any 
number  of  thousands.  Connected  with  the  Hotel  is  a  farm  of  fifty  acres 
under  high  cultivation,  supplying  the  milk,  vegetables  and  poultry  for  the 
table.  The  extensive  stables,  fiee  menagerie,  the  educated  bear,  and  ele- 
vated railway;  the  view  ft-om  the  tower,  the  natural  curiosities  hereabout, 
with  the  wonders  all  along  the  bay,  make  the  trip  to  Rocky  Point  something 
to  be  remembered. 

Newport  is  the  most  elegant  and  fashionable  of  New  England  watering 
places.  A  century  ago  it  was  a  rival  of  New  York  in  its  foreign  commerce. 
The  tcfWn  was  virtually  destroyed  by  the  British  in  1779  and  two-thirds  of 
the  population  deserted  the  place.  Of  late  many  elegant  residences  have 
been  erected  upon  the  elevations  overlooking  the  sea.  The  town  is  rich  in 
historical  associations  and  localities  and  objects  of  rare  interest.  There  is 
an  inner  and  outer  harbor  forming  one  of  the  finest  in  the  country,  each 
surrounding  point  and  headland  fraught  with  historic  interest.  The  older 
|)ortion  of  the  city  is  crowded  and  ancient  in  appearance;  the  new  town  is 
built  with  liberal  breadth  of  streets  and  display  of  architectural  taste  and 
elegance.  The  fleets  of  the  world  could  ride  at  anchor  in  the  deep  and  spa- 
cious harbor;  the  Forts,  ancient  and  modem,  the  mysterious  "  Old  Stone 
Mill,"  the  c»Tef«lly  prepared  printing  press  on  which  Ben.  Franklin  worked 
in  1772  are  important  among  the  many  sights  not  to  be  overlooked  during 
your  stay.  J.     -  •  . 

Narragansett  Pier  is  another  popular  resort  at  the  southwestern 
shore  of  the  bay,  celebrated  for  the  extensive  ocean  and  inland  views  from 
Tower  Hill  and  the  good  hotel  accommodations  and  facilities  for  fishing, 
rowing  or  sailing,  affyrded  at  the  Toicer  Hill  House. 


o 
o 


o 


KOUTE. 

From  Ntw  York  to  Concord^  N.  R. 
All  Rail  Day  Route  from  New  York  to  the  Mountains. 

Leave  New  York  by  express  train  via  Springfie!.!,  Worcester 
and  Nashua,  from  the  Grand  Central  Depot,  Forty  second  street, 
at  8  A.M.,  by  New  York  &  New  HaVen  Railroad  via  New  Haven 
&  Hartford,  and  arriving  at  Springfield  at  1  o'clock,  in  time  for 
dinner  at  that  excellent  hotel  the  Massasoit  House,  tlience  pro- 
ceeding via  Worcester  (receiving  travel  from  connecting  roads), 
Nashua,  connecting  with  evening  express  from  Boston  for  Ply- 
mouth, Manchester  and  along  the  Merrimac  Valley  to  Concord, 
and,  from  that  point,  continue  by  the  Boston,  Concord  «fe  Montreal 
Railroad,  reaching  Plymouth,  N.  H.,  the  same  evening,  stopping 
at  the  famous  Peinigewasset  House  for  the  night  and  continu- 
ing the  journey  to  the  Mountains  in  the  morning.  There  is  also 
an  evening  train  leaving  New  York  at  8  p.m.,  and  making  con- 
nections same  as  Shore  Line  Route  on  preceding  page. 

Note.— This  route,  taking  the  morning  train,  conveys  the  passenger 
through  the  interesting  portion  of  Connecticut  and  Massachusetts,  the  fair 
capital  city  of  New  Haven,  appropriately  called  the  "  Elm  City,"  held  in 
memory  by  the  many  graduates  of  famed  and  ancient  Yale  College,  founded 
in  1700.  From  New  Haven  to  the  twin  capital  city  of  Hartford,  calling  up 
remembrances  of  the  "  Convention"  and  Charter  Oak,  and  noted  for  the 
elaborate  architecture  of  its  elegant  and  permanent  buildings,  the  wealth 
of  its  people  and  thecollossal  and  substantial  growth  of  its  Life  and  Fire 
Insurance  Companies ;  the  manufactures  are  extensive,  including  Colt's  im- 
mense pistol  works,  covering  125  acres,  Sharpe's  rifle  factory  and  a  wide 
variety  of  other  interests.  Central  Park  contains  46  acres  and  is  an  attrac- 
tive spot.  The  splendid  railroad  station  will  attract  your  attention  and 
you  pass  on  to  Springfield  through  the  finest  portion  of  the  Connecticut 
Valley.    Henceforth  Hartford  is  to  be  the  sole  capital  of  the  State. 

Spkingfielp,  located  on  the  east  bank  of  the  Connecticut,  is  an  important 
railroad  centre,  noted  for  the  beauty  of  its  location,  and  chiefly  for  the 
United  States  armory,  the  only  considerable  government  manufactory  of 
small  arms  in  the  country  there  located.     The  buildings  of  the  armory 


VIA    SPRINGriELD. 


25 


liave  an  elevated  location  In  the  easterly  portion  of  the  city,  and  are  well 
worth  a  visit;  here  also  are  theextenftive  car  works  of  the  Mason  Manufae- 
turing  Co,,  an<I  Smith  and  Wesson's  pistol  works,  both  noted  manufacturers. 
Worcester,  the  heart  of  the  Commonwealth,  is  an  important  railroad 
and  trade  centre,  as  a  glance  at  the  map  will  show  you,  and  one  of  the  most 
important  inland  cities  in  New  P3ngland,  manufacturing  iron  goods,  tools 
and  machinerj'  in  wide  variety.  The  people  have  a  large  average  of  wealth 
and  are  an  eiit»'ri»rijiiig,  live  and  liberal  community.  The  manufacture  of 
wire  of  all  kinds  is  extensively  carried  on  here. 


■''<t 


ROUTE. 

From  Boston  to  the  Mountains,  Montreal  and  Quebec, 

Via  Lowell. 

Leave  Boston  by  the  Boston  and  Lowell  Rnilioad,   from  the 
magnificent  new  passenger  station,  Cau?ewcy  street,  at 8  o'clock 
A.M.,  and,  in  the  new  improved  parlor  and  fine  monitor  top  cars 
of  the  line,  proceed  by  express  train  directly  for  the  mountains 
with  no  delays,  excepting  the  necessary  stoppages  and  for  dinner. 
On  leaving  Boston,  if  a  stranger,  you  look  to  the  right  upon 
historic  ground  in  Charlestown,  with  the  plain  shaft  on  Bunker 
Hill  rising  now  and  then  into  view;  the  McLean  Asylum  for  the 
Insane  at  Somerville  will  also  be  noticed,  and  you  pass  on  to 
Lowell  over  one  of  the  oldest  lines  of  railway  in  the  country.    At 
Lowell  the  Concord  river  unites  with  the  Merrimack  furnishing  the 
extensive  water-power  of  this  great  manufacturing  site.     Fifteen 
millions  of  cai)ital  are  invested  and  fifteen  thousand  people  are  here 
employed  in  the  extensive  mills.    From  Lowell,  after  receiving 
travel  from  Salem  over  the  Salem  and  Lowell  railroad,  continue 
along  the  Merrimack  to  Nashua,  another  of  the  thriving  cities  de- 
veloped on  the  water-powers  of  the  Merrimack,  where  we  find  the 
productions  of  the  mills  and  shops  not  confined  to  the  specialty  of 
cotton  fabrics,  but  ranging  over  a  wide  list  of  the  useful  and  orna- 
mental, the  massive  and  U^  mijiute. 

From  Nashua  there  is  little  of  special  interest  until  Manches- 
ter is  reached  —  the  largest  city  of  the  old  Granite  State.  Though 
cotton  manufacture  may  be  considered  the  special  feature  of  the 
products  of  Manchester,  yet  the  locomotive  works  are  of  great 
importance.  The  Amoskeag  Manufacturing  Company  have  three 
millions  of  dollars  in  their  business  of  manufacturing  steam  fire 
engines,  machinery,  and  a  wide  diversity  of  products.  Some  ten 
miles  west  of  Manchester  are  the  two  considerable  peaks  known 
as  the  "  Twin  Uncanoonucks,"  said  to  be  the  first  elevations  seen 
by  mariners  approaching  tlie  coast. 

The  substantial  Dam  at  Amoskeag  Falls  will  be  seen  upon  the 


VIA   LOWELL.  27 

left  as  the  train  passes  out  of  the  city  over  the  smooth  grade  of 
the  Hiiely  manajied  and  Important  trunk  line  of  the  Concord 
Hailroad,  northward  to  Concord,  through  the  pleasant  valley  of 
the  Merrimack,  and  pass  the  improved  water  powers  at  Hooksett 
(observe  the  sharp,  rocky  "Pinnacle  "to  the  left,)  and  Suncook. 
The  route  from  Concord  northward  will  be  found  fully  described 
in  succeeding  pages. 

The  train  leaving  Boston  at  12  o'clock  noon,  connects  with  the 
boat  on  Lake  Wirinipesaukee,  at  Weirs,  for  Centre  Harbor  and 
Woltborough,  and  continues  to  Plymouth;  also,  (excepting  in 
mid-winter,)  a  night  accommodation  train  over  the  Boston,  Con- 
cord and  Montreal  connects  at  Concord  with  the  0  o'clock  trains 
from  Boston,  runnitig  through  to  Plymouth,  N.  H.,  the  same 
night,  and  continuing  to  the  mountains  next  morning. 

■  •  .  •  \' 


EOIJTE. 

From  Boston  to  the  Mountains,  Montreal  and  Qncbec, 

Via  Lawrence. 

Leave  the  station  of  the  Boston  and  Maine  Tinilroad,  in  ITay. 
market  square,  at  7.30  a.  m.  As  on  the  Lowell  route,  the  view 
from  the  car  windows,  to  the  right  as  you  leave  the  city,  looks 
upon  the  Heights  in  Charlestown,  and  the  shaft  of  Bunker  Hill 
Monument  rising  into  view  attracts  the  gaze  of  every  stranger. 

This  route  for  the  first  twelve  miles  passes  through  the  net 
work  of  fine  suburban  towns  and  villages  that  have  spriing  up 
along  the  line  of  all  important  railways  centreinsr  in  the  New 
England  metropolis,  and  extending  wider  and  in  new  localities 
as  the  years  roll  .on.  Somerville,  Maiden,  Melrose,  Wakefield, 
and  Reading  are  fine  towns.  The  union  of  this  road  with  the 
Salem  and  Lowell  is  at  Wilmington  Junction.  Twenty-three 
miles  from  Boston  the  fine  old  town  of  Andover  is  reached.  Here 
is  the  Theological  Seminary  founded  in  1807,  for  the  purpose  of 
providing  a  "  learned,  orthodox,  and  pious  ministry."  It  is  under 
Congregational  auspices,  but  not  closed  to  others.  The  Abbott 
Female  Seminary,  Phillips'  Academy  (founded  nearly  a  century 
ago),  and  the  new  Memorial  Hall,  which  will  accommodate  a  free 
library,  are  of  noticeable  importance. 

Reaching  the  Merrimack,  twenty-six  miles  from  Boston,  the 
fine  buildings  ot  the  great  cotton  and  woolen  mills  of  Lawrence 
attract  attention.  Younger  in  years  than  most  of  the  cities  of 
New  England,  Lawrence  holds  an  important  place  in  the  pro- 
duction of  cotton,  woolen,  and  worsted  fabrics,  and  the  man- 
ufacture of  paper.  Nearly  thirteen  thousand  operatives  are 
•employed,  and  twelve  million  dollars  of  capital  ar#  invested. 
The  Boston  and  Maine  Railroad  here  diverges  to  the  eastward 
on  its  way  to  Portland,  and  we  continue  by  way  of  the  Manchester 
and  Lawrence  Railroad  to  Manchester,  and  from  thence  to  Con- 
cord, as  described  in  the  route  via  Lowell. 

There  is  also  over  this  route  the  12  o'clock  noon  train  from 
Boston  for  Plymouth,  N.  H.,  connecting  at  Weirs,  on  Lake  Win- 
nipesaukee,  with  boat  for  Centre  Harbor  and  Wolfborouuh ;  and 
5  o'clock  night  train  from  Boston  running  through  to  Plymouth 
(excepting  in  mid-winter),  same  as  by  Lowell  route,  and  continu- 
ing from  Plymouth  to  the  mountains  the  following  morning. 


NORTHERN 


PLEASURE    TRAVEL. 


THE  MERRIMACK   RIVER. 

We  have  come  now,  from  various  ways,  to  the  tlioroughfare  to 
be  used  by  all  iu  common.  Our  progress  thus  far  has  been  to 
many  of  us^  by  ways  familiar  as  desciiption  can  make  them,  and 
the  limito  of  a  pocket  guide-book  will  not  permit  of  an  extended 
account  of  all  objects  of  interest  from  the  threshold  of  home  to 
the  journey's  end.  Our  approach  to  the  capital  city  of  New 
Hampshire  has  been  along  the  valley  of  the  MKitiUMACK  River, 
which,  in  its  course,  furnishes  the  motive  power  to  more  manu- 
factories, frets  in  the  harness  of  more  exacting  masters  than  any 
water-course  of  its  extent  in  the  world.  Having  its  source  in 
the  pure  lakes  and  leaping  streams  from  the  everlasting  hills,  its 
waters  force  into  motion  the  vast  machinery  of  the  great  mills  at 
Manchester,  Nashua,  Lowell  and  Lawrence,  and  nearer  its  source, 
and  upon  its  many  branches,  lends  its  power  in  aid  of  lesser  but 
important  industries ;  the  latent  power  of  its  pure  current  finds 
abundant  opportunity  for  application  in  its  course  to  the  sea, 
which  it  reaches  only  after  being  lashed  into  foam  over  many 
rapids,  whirled  in  revolving  wheels,  and  dashed  from  artificial 
obstructions.  Rising  in  sources  more  ^an  five  thousand  feet 
above  sea  level,  the  Pemigewasset  ana  Wiunipesaukee  rivers 
unite  at  Franklin,  forming  the  Merrimack.  The  Wiunipesaukee  is 
the  outlet  of  tne  great  lake,  and  the  water  power  companies  of 
the  great  cities  below  have  wisely  provided  artificial  means  to 
retain  in  this  great  natural  reservoir  a  reserve  of  power  to  supply 


30  NOKTIIERN    TLEASUBR   TBAVEL. 

the  lack  in  long  continued  seasons  of  (Irouglit.  Along  the  banlci 
of  this  fair  stream  we  are  now  whirled.  As  its  sources  are  ni»;re 
varied,  so  are  its  uses  more  manifold  tiian  any  stream  of  its  extent 
and  volume  in  the  world.  Gathered  from  infant  streams,  born  in 
the  placid  ponds  of  the  Franconia  Valley,  and  high  up  on  the 
summit  of  Mount  Willey  in  the  Crawford  Notch,  and  receiving 
waters  from  the  outlets  of  Winnipesaukee,  S<iuam  and  Newfound 
lakes,  from  the  slopes  of  distant  Monadiiock  an<l  Kearsarge, 
through  the  Contocook,  Black  water  and  tribtitaries,  and 
fartlier  down,  from  the  outlet  of  Massabesic,  the  JSuncook, 
Souhegan,  Nashua,  Concord,  Spicket  and  IShawshcen  rivers,  it 
discharges  into  the  Atlantic  aller  its  broken  and  busy  flow  of  2(K) 
miles  by  its  course. 

The  tine  imagination  of  Whittier  thus  invokes  the  fiiir  stream 
at  a  merry  gathering  upon  the  river  bank :  — 

*'  Bring  un  the  airs  of  tlie  ItiilH  aud  forests, 
The  8Weet  aroma  of  birch  and  pine, 
Give  U9  a  waft  of  tlie  nortli  wind  laden 
With  sweet  brier  o<lor8  and  breatli  of  kino! 

Bring  us  the  purple  of  northern  8unH€t«, 

SluulowH  of  clouds  tliat  rake  the  hillu,  r 

The  green  repose  of  the  Plymouth  meadows, 

The  gleam  and  ripple  of  Campton  rills. 

Lead  us  away  in  shades  and  sunshine, 
Slaves  of  fancy,  through  all  thy  miles, 
The  winding  ways  of  the  Pendgewasset, 
And  Winnipesaukee' s  hundred  ieles." 

It  was  said,  in  the  quaint  language  of  the  early  discoverers,  to 
be  a  "faire,  large  river,  well  replenished  with  fruitful  isles;  the 
country  pleasant,  full  of  goodly  forests  and  faire  vallies,"  a  de- 
scription that  answers  well  for  the  present,  though  made  when  its 
waters  ran  unvexed  to  the  sea. 

eONCORD,  N.  H. 

Concord,  the  capital  city  of  the  granite  commonwealth,  upon 
the  west  bank  of  the  Merrimack,  seems  a  natural  political  centre, 
for  here,  before  the  pale  faces  sat  in  council  in  the  valley,  the 
home  of  the  tawny  chieftains  and  the  seat  of  savage  authority 


NORTHERN    PLEASURE    TRAVEL.  31 

was  located  at  Peniiacook,  the  Indian  village.    The  Pennacooks 
were  a  powntVil  tribe,  and  Pa»j*aconnawuy,  their  jjreat  JSaiiKamon 
was  a  s.ivajje  ruler,  and  counsellor  of  acknowledged  wisdom  una 
undisputed  power,  to  whom  the  lesser  tribes  were  tributary. 

It  was  ln('or|K)rated  as  a  town  by  the  government  of  Massa- 
chusetts in  n:y.\  under  the  name  of  Kuinford.  The  massacre  of 
!!ve  citizens  of  the  town  by  Indians  in  174H,  is  a  matter  of  history 
well  known  to  all  familiar  with  local  records.  A  plain  granite 
iMonument  on  the  Ilopkintou  road  marks  the  vicinity  of  the 
tragedy. 

Granite  from  the  hills,  not  far  from  the  city  proper,  Is  sent  to  all 
parts  of  the  adjacent  country,  and  from  it  have  been  built  the 
11  nest  structures  of  eastern  cities,  being  noted  for  its  beauty.  And 
wherever  you  ride  in  coaches,  whether  over  the  rough  White 
Mountain  roads,  upon  the  wide  reaches  of  the  western  lx)rder,  on 
the  plains  of  Mexico  or  the  steppes  of  South  America,  you  will 
doubtless  find  the  trade  mark  ol  Concord  makers  upon  the  vehicle 
that  conveys  you. 

The  State  Asylum  for  the  insane,  with  its  extensive  buildings  and 
grounds,  is  upon  a  gradual  swell  of  land  on  the  western  limits  of 
the  city  proper.  The  State  Prison  is  somewhat  ancient  in  its 
appearance  and  may  be  wanting  in  some  of  the  "  modern  improve- 
ments" of  model  corrective  establishments,  but  serves  its  purpose 
well. 

The  St.  Paul  School,  for  boys,  is  a  flourishing  institution  at 
Millville,  some  two  miles  from  the  city  proper  on  the  Hopkinton 
road  and  Turkey  river.  There  are  tasty  buildings  in  a  pretty 
location  in  the  quiet  valley.  The  institution  is  under  the  patron- 
age of  the  Episcopal  denomination  and  is  liberally  patronized. 

The  State  House  is  finely  situated  in  the  heart  of  the  city, 
between  Maine  and  State  streets,  and  the  enclosed  grounds,  some 
two  acres  in  extent,  are  laid  out  in  pleasant  walks.  Fronting  the 
State  House  is  the  well  known  and  popular 

EAGLE  HOTEL, 

-, _ ^-*,  ,  - 

where  the  traveler  who  may,  from  choice  or  compulsion,  tarry 
at  this  stage  of  the  journey,  will  find  excellent  fare  and  accom- 
modations with    mine  host,  John  A.  White,  whose  capabilities 


32 


NORTIIKRN    PLEASURE   TRAVEI^ 


tt-r   • 


have  been  tested  on  many  occasions,  and  never  found  wanting. 
All  tlie  appointmouts  of  tlie  liouse  will  be  found  to  l)e  llrst-class 
and  the  fare  and  attendance  such  as  to  insure  the  cotnfort  of  all 
patrons.  Carriages  convey  guests  to  and  from  the  depot  free  of 
expense. 

THE  PHENIX  HOTEL  . 


is  widely  and  favorably  known  to  the  traveling  public  for  the  flrst- 
class  accommodations  afforded.  The  ease  and  comfort  of  all  who 
may  make  this  house  their  temporary  or  permanent  home,  is  not  a 
matter  of  speculation,  but  is  positively  assured.  The  location  is 
near  the  railroad  station  in  the  centre  of  business.  Guests 
conveyed  to  and  from  the  depot  free  of  chaige.  J.  R.  Crocker, 
Esq.,  is  the  popular  landlord. 


84  NORTHERN   PLEASURE   TRAVEL. 

FROM  CONCORD  NORTHWARD. 

Leaving  Concord,  if  you  so  will  it,  via  the  Boston,  Concord  and 
Montreal  railroad,  with  no  unnecessary  delay,  we  are  now  fairly 
bound  mountainward.  It  is  the  season  of  pleasure  trave!,  and,  as 
we  are  whirled  along  the  valley  of  the  Merrimack,  it  is  but  natural 
to  scan  the  faces  of  our  traveling  companions  who  thread  a  common 
thoroughfare  having  the  common  object  of  near  communion 
with  nature — 

"  A  motLer  kind  alike  to  all." 

The  merchant  has  left  his  counting  house,  sacrificing  profit  for 
pleasure  for  the  time  being;  the  retired  sea  captain  from  the 
south  shore,  leaves  behind  the  uncertainties  of  his  floating  home 
for  the  solidity  and  beauty  of  the  rolling  billows  of  mountain  land ; 
the  over  worked  pastor,  with  leave  of  absence  and  the  bronchitis, 
will  read  "  sermons  in  stones"  and  gather  strength  for  a  season  in 
the  pure  mountain  air;  the  quiet  authoress  of  note  is  seeking 
rest  and  inspiration  where  the  Highland  rivers 

"  Sing  us  the  songs  of  peace  and  home," 

while  the  actress  has  left  the  glare  of  the  foot-lights  and  the 
illusions  of  the  stage  for  the  pure  breezes  and  grand  realities  of 
the  hills ;  the  legislator  has  put  oflT  the  cares  of  State  and  escaped 
the  perils  of  political  life  to  ponder  by  the  side  of  mountain 
streams ;  our  friend  with  the  rifle  and  rods  is  on  sporting  interest 
and  will  flnd  ampl°  scope  for  his  skill;  the  young  man  with 
luxuriant  side  whiskers  and  voluminous  portfolios  is  an  artist 
bound  for  the  quiet  scenes  of  Campton  or  the  vales  8f  North 
Conway ;  in  him,  the  fair  widow  and  marriageable  daughters,  all 
of  whom  have  an  eye  for  pleasing  outlines,  be  they  mountainous 
or  masculine,  takes  a  deep  interest ;  while  Miss  Flora  McFlimsey, 
of  Madison  Square,  also  aboard,  with  the  "  nothing  she  wears" 
in  s  X  sizable  trunks,  is  on  intimate  terras  with  the  gentleman  of 
foreigi  air  and  accent;  the  pale  mvalid wisely  seeks  relief  in  the 
breath  of  woodlands  and  savage  vigor  of  hills,  and  our  recon- 
structed southern  brother  anticipates  pleasure  in  viewing  "  the 
grand  uprisings  of  the  North."    A  group  of  children— mnocents 


NORTHERN   PLEASURE   TRAVEL.  35 

abroad — hare  crude  but  deliglitful  visions  of  wonders  to  come  in 
the  hill  country  where  their  fathers  were  l)orn  and  reared;  for 
them  **  the  cradle  song  of  the  hill  side  fountains"  is  music  indeed. 
Our  happy  and  expectant  company  enjoy  the  facilities  for  travel 
on  the  line  of  the 

BOSTON,  CONCORD  AND  MONTREAL  RAILROAD. 

Tliis  route  by  way  of  the  Merrimack  Yalley,  the  Lake  Shore 
and  valley  of  Baker's  River  and  tiie  Connecticut  and  Ammonusue 
Valleys,  is  one  of  the  favorite  pleasure  routes  of  New  England, 
noticeable  for  the  safety  and  comfort  with  which  the  trains  are 
run  and  for  all  tlie  modern  appliances  for  the  convenience  of  pas- 
sengers which  rapid  improvements  have  of  late  years  provided.  J. 
E.  Lyon,  Esq.,  of  Boston,  is  the  efficient  president  and  controlling 
spirit  of  the  road,  J.  A.  Dodge,  Esq.,  of  Plymouth,  is  the  gentle- 
manly and  industrious  Superintendent,  with  a  corps  of  conductors 
who  know  and  do  their  business  with  faithfulness  to  their  employ- 
ers and  regard  for  passengers'  comfort.  Parlor  cars  are  run  on  all 
through  trains  in  the  season  of  pleasure  travel.  The  General 
Agency  of  the  road  where  tickets  may  be  purchased,  information 
obtained  and  valuable  directions  given  is  at  No.  5  State  street, 
Boston,  W.  W.  Berg,  General  Passenger  Agent. 

LACONIA. 

While  we  have  studied  the  faces  and  characters  of  our  travel- 
ing companions,  the  fast  exress  train  has  borne  us  on,  through, 
the  valley  of  the  Merrimack,  with  little  to  excite  our  curiosity, 
unless  at  Tilton,  the  buildings  of  the  New  Hamsphire  Conference 
Seminary  and  Female  College,  on  the  left,  should  be  noticed. 
Crossing  the  Winnipesaukee  River,  shortly  after  leaving  Tilton,  the 
placid  waters  of  Sanbornton  Bay  and  Great  Bay,  or  Lake  Win- 
nesquam  appear  on  the  left  and  give  warning  that  we  are 
approaching  the  Central  Lake  so  far  famed  for  its  beauty  and 
variety  of  its  scenery  and  purity  of  its  waters. 

The  town  of  Laconia  is  a  large  and  thriving  village  which  has 
evidently  caught  the  spirit  of  progress  and  outrun  the  limit  which 
seems  to  have  been  set  upon  the  expansion  of  many  of  the  older 


1^3 


36  NORTHERN   PLEASURE    TRAVEL. 

towns.  The  station  is  27  miles  from  Concord.  Here  are  the  ex- 
tensive works  of  the  Riinlet  Car  Manufacturing  Co.,  the  Belknap 
Mills,  Iron  Foundry  and  Machine  yiiop,  several  Hosiery  Mills  and 
other  important  industries,  a  Bank  of  Discount  and  two  Savings 
Banks,  with  an  extensive  country  trade.  Laconia  was  the  name 
originally  given  to  the  wide  region  lying  about  the  lake  and 
mountain!^. 

The  Laconia  Bouse,  kept  by  mine  host,  W.  C.  Wylie,  a  new  and 
commodious  house,  will  aflord  visitors  substantial  comlbrts  and  all 
needed  requisites  for  a  pleasant  temporary  home.  A  stage  line 
runs  from  here  to  Alton  Bay.  The  drive  to  Ckntre  Habbob  is  one 
of  rare  interest,  and  the  Belknap  and  Gunstock  Mountains 
are  ollen  visited  from  this  point ;  the  view  from  the  highest  summit 
gives  the  eye  a  wide  range  of  the  whole  extent  of  the  lake  from  a 
central  point.  Good  teams  for  drives  cau  be  had  at  the  above 
named  hotel.  The  pleasant  residences  and  tasty  church  build- 
higs  of  the  village  attract  attention  as  the  through  passenger  is 
hurried  ou  to 

LAKE  VILLAGE. 

the  next  railway  station,  important  as  the  place  where  are 
located  the  construction  and  repair  shops  of  the  Boston,  Concord 
and  Montreal  Railroad  line,  with  manufactories  of  machinery  and 
mill  castings  (B.  J.Cole  &  Co.,  proprietors).  Hosiery  mills  and 
other  mills  of  importance  for  makmg  of  knitting  machines, 
needles,  <&c. 

THE  MOUNT  BELKNAP  HOUSE 

is  a  commodious  brick  structure,  near  the  railway  station ;  David 
B.  Story,  Esq.,  is  the  obliging  lar'l'ord,  and  those  who  may  tarry 
here  for  a  time  will  And  no  ^k  of  pleasant  drives  in  the 
surrounding  region,  and  no  one  should  fail  to  make  the  trip  to  the 
summit  of  Belknap.  For  these  trips  Mr.  S.  will  furnisli  good 
teams. 

From  Lake  "Village  the  railway  skirts  the  shores  of  Long  Bay, 
lying  to  the  right,  an  outlying  portion  of  the  lake  proper.  The 
lake  itself  now  comes  in  view  as  you  reach  the  small  and  unpre- 
tending station  standing  in  solitary  importance,  and  known  as  the 


f 

NOBTHERN  PLEA8DRE  TRAVEL.  37 

WEIRS,  * 

tlie  steamboat  landing  on  Lake  Winnipesaukee,  where  passen- 
gers can  leave  by  the  commodious  lake  steamer  "  Lady  of  the 
liake,"  Capt.  Bickford,  and  enjoy  the  delightful  sail,  of  ten  miles^ 
through  the  finest  portion  of  the  lake,  to  the  quiet  and  picturesque 
village,  at  the  head  of  the  central  northern  bay,  so  loved  by  artists 
for  its  quiet  beauty.  • 

CENTRE  HARBOR. 

Here  the  tourist  may  tarry  with  comfort  and  take  luxurious  ease 
and  rest  at  the  fine  hotel,  row  or  sail  in  boats  to  be  had  for  the 
purpose,  watch  the  play  of  the  shadows  upon  the  mirror  of  waters 
and  the  surrounding  hills,  or  make  the  "  not  to  be  omitted  excur- 
sion" to  Red  Hill.  During  your  stay  at  this  place  the  comforts 
;  afforded  by  the  Senter  House,  J.  L.  Huntress,  proprietor,  will 
be  found  in  all  respects  flrst-class.  The  hotel  building  is  one  of 
the  finest  in  the  vicinity  near  the  shore  of  the  lake,  has  pleasant 
and  ample  grounds  and  broad  piazzas,  with  the  most  substantial 
provision  for  the  comfort  and  enjoyment  of  guests.  The  extensive 
livery  stables  enable  the  guests  to  take  trips  in  any  direction,  or 
to  proceed  on  their  journey  by  private  conveyance  if  they  prefer 
it  to  the  public  routes. 

Fine  drives  may  be  taken  from  this  point,  and  excellent  teams 
are  furnished  at  the  hotels.  Many  may  choose,  as  they  can  do 
each  day,  to  leave  by  the  steamer  for  Wolfborough,  on  the  eastern 
shore  of  the  lake,  but  the  larger  numl^er  who  continue  their  jour- 
ney from  this  point,  will  take  the  stage  and  rail  route  to  North 
Conway,  but  all,  before  leaving  this  quiet  retreat,  will  wish  to 
make  the  ascent  of 


RED  HILL,  i|p 


which  is  distant  from  Centre  Harbor  some  five  miles  to  the  sum- 
mit.  From  this  elevation  (of  2500  feet),  a  view  is  had  equalled 
in  beauty  by  none  other  in  this  immediate  vicinity.  The  wide 
reach  of  that  cluster  of  silver  bays,  which,  with  the  lake  proper, 
give  unrivalled  variety  and  beauty  to  Winnipesaukee,  lying  like  a 
mirror  in  its  framework  of  rounded  swelling  hills,  pre-eminent  in 


38  NORTHERN    PLEASURE   TRAVEL, 

placid  beauty,  is  here  spread  beneath  the  eye.  Starr  King  beauti- 
fully says  of  the  lake  view  from  this  summit :  "  Here  is  the  place 
to  study  its  borders,  to  admire  the  fleet  of  islands  that  ride  at 
anchor  upon  its  bosom,  from  the  little  shallops  to  the  grand  three- 
deckers,  and  to  enjoy  the  exquisite  lines  by  which  its  bays  are 
enfolded,  and  in  which  its  coves  retreat,  and  with  which  its  low 
capes  cut  the  azure  and  hang  over  it  in  emerald  fringe."  The 
hill  takes  its  name  from  a  shrub  covering  its  sides,  the  leaves 
changing  to  brilliant  red  in  the  fading  autumn.  The  splendor  of 
a  sunrise  view  from  this  elevation  on  a  summer  morning  is«aid 
to  be  beautiful  beyond  description. 

The  route  from  Centre  Harbor  to  North  Conway  and  the  Glen 
House  is  by  stage  line  running  along  the  base  of  Red  Hill  through 
Moultonborough,  touching  the  shores  of  Sc^uam  Lake,  and  afford- 
ing a  grand  panoramic  view  of  the  mountains  at  that  distance, 
which  lends  enchantment  to  their  rugged  outlines.  There  are 
occasional  sharp  and  tiresome  hills  on  the  route.  Ossipee  Moun- 
tain will  haunt  you  during  the  drive.  It  is  one  of  the  summits 
thought  worthy  to  give  a  name  to  one  of  the  great  United  States 
naval  vessels.  The  Sandwich  range  of  mountains  are  to  the  west 
and  north,  terminating  in  the  peaks  of  Chucorua,  with  their  mas- 
sive symmetrical  and  precipitous  ledges,  3,400  feet  in  height,  deso- 
late with  the  legendary  curse  of  the  dying  chief  whose  name  it 
bears.  You  reach  the  railway  at  West  Ossipee,  and  proceed  by 
rail  to  North  Conway,  of  which,  with  its  secluded  charms  set 
about  with  circling  majesty  of  distant  mountains,  we  will  give 
full  account  elsewhere.  The  distance  from  Centre  Harbor  is  33 
miles,  about  one-half  by  stage  line. 

.* 
WOLFBOROUGH, 

upon  tl^  eastern  shore  of  the  lake,  is  also  reached  by  boat  from 
Centre  Harbor  and  Weirs.  Around  this  romantic  village  are 
many  pleasant  drives,  but  the  chief  attraction  is  the  ascent  of 
Copple  Crown  Mountain  (2100  feet  elevation),  about  five  miles 
distant  from  the  hotels.  The  ascent  is  not  difficult,  cai-riages 
conveying  you  to  within  a  mile  of  the  summit.  The  view  takes 
in  nearly  the  whole  extent  of  the  lake,  the  ragged  spurs  of  Chu- 
corua and  the  overtopping  dome  of  Mount  Washington.    Some- 


w 


NORTHERN  PLEASURE  TRAVEL. 


39 


times,  in  the  far  distance,  the  blue  ocean  can  be  seen,  and  the. 
wide  landscape  is  dotted  with  more  than  a  score  of  ponds  of 
various  dimensions.  There  is  also  a  favorite  view  to  be  had  from 
the  lesser  elevation  of  "  Tumble -Down-Dick."  Smith's  Pond  is 
a  place  of  resort  for  sportsmen  and  others,  and  moonlight  excur- 
sions on  Lake  Winnipesaukee  from  this  point  are  often  made  to 
the  lasting  pleasure  of  all.  A  poetic  writer  has  described  the 
waters  as  lying  in  the  soft  moonlight,  "  burnished  into  liquid  acres 
of  a  faint  and  golden  splendor."  Wollborough  has  direct  railroad 
communicalion  with  Boston  and  the  east,  and  with  Conway,  by 
the  Wolfborough  branch  of  the  Great  Falls  and  Conway  line, 
while  the  daily  boat  trips  to  Weirs,  on  the  Concord  and  Montreal 
line,  and  to  Alton  Bay,  give  unusual  facilities  for  visitors  to  choose 
among  rival  routes. 


WOLFBOROUGH    PAVILION 

is  a  fine  and  commodious  hotel,  E.  Stanton,  Esq.,  proprietor,  with 
all  the  i*equisites  of  a  first-class  travelers'  home,  a  fine  livery  for 
the  charming  drives  hereabout.  The  house  is  located  in  the 
immediate  vicinity  of  the  landing,  with  facilities  for  boating. 


/  --     ,  THE  QLENDEN  HOUSE, 

J.  L.  Peavey,  proprietor,  is  attractive  in  its  exterior  and  style, 
new,  airy  and  pleasant,  on  the  shore  of  the  lake  near  the  station 


40 


NORTHERN    PLEASURE   TRAVEL. 


he  Eastern  Railway,  and  every  eflbrt  will  be  made  to  make  it 
a  desirable  place  for  recreation  and  rest.  Livery  stables  con- 
nected, and  boats  may  be  had  for  lake  excursions.  Billiard  rooms 
connected,  lighted  throughout  with  gas,  electric  bell  arrangement 


THE    BELVUE    HOUSE, 

Daniel  Horn,  proprietor.  The  grounds  are  beautifully  located  in 
the  most  attractive  spot  on  the  shore  of  the  lake  a  few  rods 
distant  from  the  landing  and  railroad  station.  The  proprietor 
is  well  known  and  second  to  none  in  his  endeavors  to  please  and 
entertain  his  guests.  Connected  with  the  house  are  boarding  and 
livery  stable,  laundry,  and  bath'ng,  and  a  large  supply  of  boats  for 
rowing  and  sailing,  at  moderate  charges.  The  added  pleasure  of 
yachting  can  be  enjoyed  by  the  patrons  of  this  house  the  coming 
summer.  A  fine  new  yacht  having  been  launched  the  pre- 
sent season. 

ALTON  BAY, 

at  the  foot  of  Merrymeeting  Bay,  at  the  lower  end  of  the  lake,  is 
the  point  of  railroad  communication  with  Boston  and  the  east, 
via  the  Dover  and  Winaipesaukee  and  Boston  and  Maine  rail- 
roiids.  Connecting  with  trains  over  these  roads  the  new,  staunch 
and  commodious  steamer,  "  Mount  Waahiugton,"  Capt.  Wiggin, 


NORTHERN  PLEASURE  TRAVEL.  41 

• 

plies  to  "Woin)oroiigli  and  Centre  Harbor  through  the  entire  length 
of  the  lake  proper.  This  place  has  become  noted  for  the  immense 
gatherings  of  the  Adventists  and  Spiritualists  of  New  England  in 
yearly  cauiivmeetings,  which  are  attended  by  thousands,  and  for 
whose  accommodation  extra  trains  and  boat  trips  are  run.  Of 
the  hotel  accommodations  at  this  point  little  can  be  said,  unless 
late  changes  have  been  made.  The  railroad  and  hotel  buildings 
constitute  nearly  all  of  the  village,  which  is  shut  in  by  hills. 
Drives  from  this  point  to  Mount  Belknap,  ten  miles,  to  Sharpe's 
Hill,  and  fisliing  excursions  to  Lougee  Pond,  six  miles,  will  amply 
reward  the  taking. 

LAKE  WIimiPESAUKEE. 

Having  briefly  sketched  the  surrounding  points  and  ways  of 
approach  to  this  gem  of  the  lakes,  the  reader  will  pardon  a  page 
or  two  regarding  the  lake  itself.  If  it  be  not  sacrilege  to  apply 
measurement  to  the  molten  surface,  or  impossible  to  compute  in 
miles  so  irregular  a  form,  we  may  say,  in  general  terms,  that  the 
length  of  the  lake  is  some  twenty-flve  miles,  varying  in  width 
from  less  than  one  to  seven  miles  in  its  greatest  breadth.  Its 
elevation  above  sea  level  is  496  feet.  The  waters  are  of  a  deep, 
clear  and  transparent  green.  The  islands  have  clearly  defined, 
and,  with  some  exceptions,  low,  rocky  shores,  and  are  covered 
with  greenest  foliage.  The  shores  recede  to  the  mountains  ia 
sweeping  lines  and  slopes  of  green.  On  Diamond  Island,  which 
is  a  sort  of  half-way  station  for  the  boats  from  the  lake  landings, 
and  at  which  the  "  Lady  of  the  Lake  "  makes  a  short  stop  in  its 
trip  from  Woltborough  to  Weirs,  is  a  comfortable  hotel,  accom- 
modating some  fifty  guests,  and  is  a  place  of  resort  for  pic-nic, 
pleasure  and  fishing  parties,  and  a  favorite  dining  station  for  ex- 
cursionists. Bear  Island,  of  considerable  extent,  is  also  resorted 
to  by  excursion  parties.  Long  Island,  Governor's  Island,  Rattle- 
snake Island,  and  Cow  Island  are  the  larger  of  the  more  than 
three  hundred  isles  which  dot  the  lake;  some  have  cultivated 
farms,  others  are  used  solely  for  pasturage,  others  are  sacred  to 
pic-nic  and  pleasure  parties,  while  the  small,  low  isles,  with  their 
tangled  growth,  are  the  paradise  of  ungainly  waterfowl. 

The  central  extent  of  nearly  unbroken  water,  is  known  as 


;.«.:*«f4> 


PImi  H 


}^K,:- 


^mi 

^m 

mH^sm 

.•J 

■ 

.,.  ^'     '■■■a 

'f^i 


ml 


■.V  i^ 


w 


*'«*^:<  ri 


NORTHERN  PLEA8DBE  TRAVEL.  43 

• 

"  The  Broada."  The  outlet  is  through  the  waters  of  Great  Bay 
and  the  swift  Winnipesaukee  river,  which  joius  the  Merrimack  at 
Franklin.  Its  source  of  supply  is  a  matter  of  speculation ;  no 
large  streams  ♦ind  their  way  into  it  and  much  of  the  surrounding 
water-shed  is  drained  into  other  lakes  and  rivers  having  other 
outlets;  many  small  brooks  enter  from  the  shores  Ijut  the  outlet 
is  an  important  and  rapid  stream,  and  the  wide  surface  is  exposed 
to  evaporation ;  yet,  with  such  apparent  lack  of  supply,  its  banks 
are  always  full^  forcing  the  conclusion  that  its  volume  is  supplied 
largely  by  invisible  springs  of  great  number  and  force  fed  by  the 
surrounding  mountains. 

The  Indian  tribes  who  gave  to  tlie  lake  its  musical  name,  found 
in  Its  waters  and  on  its  shores  inexhaustible  supplies  for  their 
rude  subsistence.  Their  frail  canoes  were  thick  upon  its  waters 
long  before  the  artist  sketched  its  outlines ;  their  ahquedankenSf 
or  "  flsh-weirs,"  furnished  supply  of  food  without  limit,  and  the 
fertile  shores  provided  the  growth  of  corn.  Around  its  waters 
they  congregated  in  large  numbers,  making  it  the  centre  from 
which  they  took  their  journeys  for  trade,  or  made  their  plunder- 
ing forays.  Old  inhabitants  tell  of  a  tree  once  standing  near  at 
hand,  on  which  was  carved  the  legends  of  the  Osslpee  tribe  la 
quaint  Indian  characters.  Fishing  in  the  waters  of  the  lake 
rarely  fails  to  be  amply  rewarded.  The  trout  in  deep  waters, 
and  pickerel  in  shallow  places  among  the  reeds  and  lilies  are  the 
most  sought.  The  cusk,  perch,  and  toothsome  but  inelegant  and 
unpopular  "  pout,"  are  also  easily  taken  in  abundance. 

The  loveliness  which  invests  with  "charms  artistic  and  in- 
linlte"  the  cluster  of  baj^s  which  combine  in  the  lake  proper,  is 
not  easily  described  by  words  or  transmitted  by  brush  or  pencil. 
The  combination  of  summits,  slopes  and  forests,  green  lines  of 
shore  winding  in  charming  curves  of  symmetrical  beauty,  and 
sometimes,  not  often,  the  whole  blending  system  of  hills,  forests, 
shores  and  islands  reproduced  in  the  still  waters — a  hanging 
shadow  picture  of  wondrous  beauty,  beyond  the  reach  of  art  to 
transcribe.      ..     ;      .        '  ^    ^^      -  ^;'--  .     .  .v 

Moving  over  the  lake  in  the  steamer  from  Weirs  to  Centre 
Harbor,  an  ever-changing  succession  of  pictures  is  presented. 
The  Sandwich  and  Ossipee  mountains  to  the  right,  with  glimpses 
of  old  Chucorua  far  to  the  north,  and  slopes  of  forest,  green  hill- 


44  NORTHERN  PLEASURE  TRAVEL. 

• 

sides,  and  fertile  pastures,  with  tlie  nearer  view  of  Red  IIllI  and 
the  surrounding  elevations  fVonting  your  course,  the  twin  peaks 
of  Belknap  or  Gun.stock  mountains  behind  you,  and  the  wondrous 
beauty  of  island-germed  surface  and  constantly  changhig  out- 
lines of  the  grander  shores,  all  blending  in  a  scene  not  to  be  for- 
gotten. In  llnrst  weather  you  have  for  a  few  moments  a  view  of 
the  crown  of  Mount  Washington  —  the  Mecca  of  the  mountain 
tourists  —  dim,  distant  and  golden. 

But  while  we  have  digressed  and  become  oblivious  of  all  else 
In  the  quiet  loveliness  of  the  lake,  the  larger  part  of  the  company 
have  kept  steadily  onward  by  rail  along  the  western  shore  of 
Northwest  Cove,  in  sight  of  its  cool,  sparkling  waters,  through 

MEREDITH  VILLAGE. 

Tliis  fine  village  has  become  a  place  of  resort  for  those  seeking 
a  quiet  and  attractive  summer  retreat.  The  Elm  House,  by  G. 
M.  Burleigh,  is  a  good  hotel,  and  the  Prospect  Uouse,  by 
the  same  proprietor,  one  and  a  half  miles  from  the  village,  and 
three  miles  from  Centre  Harbor,  is  one  of  the  pleasantest  country 
hotels  in  the  vicinity.  A  fine  forest  lies  in  the  Immediate  vicinity 
to  the  rear  of  the  house.  The  location  is  elevated,  commanding 
an  extensive  view  of  the  lake  and  the  country  surrounding. 
There  are  thirty  large  and  airy  rooms,  pure  breezes  from  the 
lake  and  hills,  good  stables  connected,  and  everything  new  and 
comfortable.  To  those  who  appreciate  quiet,  rest,  and  rural 
sports,  with  reasonable  charges,  this  will  become  a  favorite 
resort  Thence  to  Ashland  Station,  a  thriving  village,  becom- 
ing important  for  the  extensive  production  of  paper,  leather  board 
and  straw  board,  woollen  goods  and  hosiery,  reaching  in  time  for 
early  dinner  the  romantic  and  pleasant  village  of 

PLYMOUTH, 

fifty-one  miles  fi'om  Concord  and  one  hundred  and  twenty-four 
from  Boston.  This  is  the  dining  station  for  the  morning  trains 
from  Boston,  and  the  night  station  for  the  later  trains,  which  con- 
tinue north  from  this  point  in  the  morning.  You  step  from 
the  train  directly  upon  the  threshold  of  the  famed 


MOKTUIKN    PLEASURE   TUATEL.  «§ 

PEMI0EWAJB8ET    UUUHE, 

• 

managed  by  C.  M.  Morse,  Eaq.  Ascendlni;  the  broad  staircaso,  if 
it  be  in  the  season  of  plcjisure  travel,  you  will  be  saluted  with 
music  from  a  line  (quadrille  band,  and,  enterin;^  one  of  tlie  linest 
dining  halls  in  New  England,  you  llnd  that  plenty  reigns  at  this 
liospitablti  board,  wliere,  if  discomfort  linds  entrance,  it  must 
be  in  the  mental  alienation  or  clironic  physical  disabiiity  of 
the  guest.  {Scrupulous  neatness,  excellent  cookery  and  quiet, 
lady-like  attendance,  the  purest  of  water  and  the  freshest  of 
viands  are  the  features  of  tnis  hotel,  which  serve  to  convince  the 
most  skeptical  that  there  is  at  least  one  ^'dining  station"  in  the 
country  where  a  meal  can  be  eiyoyed,  though  such  may  be  the 
exception  and  not  the  rule. 

This  I'avorite  house  was  erected  in  180^3.  The  railroad 
i^assenger  station  is  in  the  basement.  The  building  has  a 
Jroutage  of  23U  feet,  is  four  stories  in  lieight,  with  a  wide,  pro 
jecting  wing.  There  are  150  sleeping  rooms,  large,  airy,  well 
lurnished,  lighted  with  gas  and  with  ample  bathing  tacilities. 
iSuites  ot  rooms  can  be  had  for  families.  The  parlor  is  spacious, 
with  elegant  furnishing  and  a  line  frontage  to  the  south.  The 
building  is  crowned  with  au  observatory  from  wL  nil  you  have 
a  wide  outlook  over  the  surrounding  country.  JSo  guest,  however 
fastidious,  can  fail  to  appreciate  the  genuine  comfort  and  sub- 
stantial plenty  of  this  one  of  the  largest  and  most  complete 
hotels  of  the  State.  Good  teams  may  be  had  at  the  first-class 
Uvery  stable  near  at  hand,  with  skilliul  drivers  familiar  with  sur- 
rounding  scenery. 

Pleasant  drives  in  the  vicinity  of  Plymouth  are  numerous  to 
points  of  interest  within  reasonable  distance,  viz.:  around  Smith's 
bridge,  6  miles,  to  Livermore  Falls,  2  miles ;  Plymouih  Mountain, 
10  miles ;  Loon  Pond,  5  miles ;  Squam  Lake,  0  miles ;  Centre 
Harbor,  12  miles. 

Prospect  Hill  or  Mount  Prospect,  in  Holderness,  should  be 
visited  by  all  who  tarry  at  this  place.  The  distance  is  about  four 
miles  from  the  hotel,  the  ascent  not  ditlicult  and  the  view  from 
the  summit  (2,908  feet  elevation)  takes  in  the  wide  reaches  of 
valley,  lake,  stream  and  mountain  with  the  vili^'ges,  larms  and 
intervales  that  sleep  in  the  fair  valley  of  the  Pemigewasset  and 


NORTIIKR^i    PLEASURE   TRWRL.  47 

|l)jikpr'.s  River,  while,  far  to  the  north  the  ^rrat  ranges  of  the 
White  and  Fraiiconia  MoiintainA  thrust  their  ragged  in^aks  and 

Uwclling  ina.ssi'8  upon  the  horl/on;  the  vU*w  of  Mount  Lafayette 

{and  Cannon  Mountain  are  particularly  grand  from  this  Hununit, 
and  Chucorua,  GiuiNtock,  lielknap  Mountains,  Monadnock  and 
Koarsarge  greet  the  vision  as  the  eye  sweeps  the  circuit  from 

llhe  eaNt  to  the  west,  and  to  the  northwest  Moosohlllock  swells 
nobly  into  view,  while  Wukawan  or(S(iuam)  and  Wlnnipesaukee 
Lakes  lie  in  their  quiet  and  silvery  beauty  in  the  unrivalled  land- 
scape which  includes  some  portion  of  nearly  every  county  in 
the  State. 

To  make  this  trip  you  will  necessarily  be  absent  from  tlie  hotel 
only  about  four  hours.  The  road  is  safe  and  Arm,  atlording  a  con- 
tinual change  of  view  as  the  ascent  is  made. 

Livermore  Falls,  on  the  Pemigewasset  Ulver,  about  two  miles 
northerly  from  the  village  will  not  fail  to  prove  an  object  of  interest. 
The  view  is  from  the  bridge  some  ^xty  feet  above  the  fall ;  there 
are  indications  of  volcanic  disturbances  in  the  rocky  bed,  and  no 
tourist  will  regret  the  visit;  while,  for  a  limited  view,  if  you  have 
not  the  time  or  inclination  for  a  more  extensive  one,  that  from 
Walker's  Hill  or  from  bouth  Mountain  is  pleasing  In  the  extreme. 
If  a  day  or  two  Is  spent  at  Plymouth  at  this  favorite  hotel,  it  is 
quite  likely  on  your  return,  the  coming  year,  your  stay  will  be 
one  of  weeks,  for,  of  the  thousands  who  gather  annually  at  its 
hospitable  board,  few  depart  with  other  than  feelings  of  pleasure. 
There  is  wholesome  stimulus  in  the  mountain  air  and  purity  in 
the  waters,  activity  and  bustle  at  the  hotel  and  railway  station, 
three  trains  each  day,  to  and  from  Boston,  Irom  wiiich  a  step, 
almost,  will  take  you  to  undisturbed  quiet. 

Belore  leaving  Plymouth  you  will  pay  a  visit  to  the  small  four- 
roofed  building,  now  used  as  a  wheelwright  shop,  in  which  Daniel 
Webster  made  his  debut  as  a  practising  attorney.  The  old  build* 
ing  Is  preserved  in  Its  ancient  condition  and  is  looked  upon  with 
great  interest  by  strangers  and  admirers  of  the  great  statesman. 

PEMIGEWASSET  VALLEY  ROUTE. 

The  route  from  Plymouth  to  the  Profile  and  Flume  Houses 
and  the  Frauconia  fiiils,  25  miles  to  the  Flume  House  and  30  miles 


48  NORTHERN   PLEASURE  TRAVEL. 

to  the  Profile  Houses,  through  the  Pemigewasset  valley  is  acknowl- 
edged to  be  oue  of  the  finest  rides  iu  the  whole  mountain  district. 

The  way  leads  up  this  lair  valley  through  the  towns  of  Camp- 
ton,  Thornton,  Woodstock,  and  Lincoln.  The  Campton  inter- 
vales, through  which  the  river  winds  and  turns  as  if  reluctantly 
leaving  the  peaceful  retreat — the  graceful  sweeps  of  the  great 
elms,  the  rich  beauty  of  the  views,  which  open  with  every  mile 
of  progress,  have  made  this  mountain  town  the  favorite  resort  of 
artists  seeking  the  picturesque  in  landscape,  and  perfection  in 
shade  and  outline. 

On  the  way  the  road  is  somewhat  rugged,  but  the  fine  views,  the 
gradual  swelling  and  towering  up  of  the  great  hills  as  you 
approach  their  base,  and  the  lessening  of  the  streams  as  you  near 
their  source,  the  entrance  into  the  immediate  presence  of  the 
solemn  and  majestic  mountains  in  the  evening  twilight,  the 
wonders  of  Francouia  Notch,  and  the  comforts  provided  at  the 
journey's  end  will  all  linger  in  memory  long  after  the  journey  has 
become  a  thing  of  the  past. 

Many  will  not  be  tempted  even  by  this  fine  stage  route  to 
leave  the  line  of  rail  but  will  continue  by  rail  northward  from 
Plymouth,  following  the  valley  of  Baker's  Kiver  to  the  Connecti- 
cut. Before  reaching  Wentworth,  Kattlesnake  Mountain  will  be 
seen  on  the  right  and  (Jarr  Mountain  and  Mount  Kinneo  on  the 
right  after  passing  that  point,  and  the  train  halts  at 

WARREN. 

Moosilauk  Mountain  is  visited  from  this  point,  being  distant 
from  the  station  some  five  miles  to  the  base.  The  ascent  is  by  a 
new  turnpike  recently  opened  to  the  summit,  some  four  miles. 
There  are  hotel  accommodations  at  the  summit,  giving  substantial 
comfort  to  those  remaining. 

The  view  from  this  isolated  crest  (4,636  foet  altitude)  high  above 
all  immediate  surroundings  is  one  of  the  grandest  and  most 
extensive  in  New  England ;  the  eye  falls  directly  upon  the  White 
and  Franconia  ranges,  the  larger  portion  of  the  State  of  Vermont 
with  the  Green  Mountain  range,  the  wide  stretch  of  hills  and 
imbedded  lakes  to  the  east,  including  nearly  all  of  eastern  and 
southern  New  Hampshire,  the  mountains  around  North'Conway 


NORTHERN  PLEASURE  TRAVEL.  49 

and  glimpses  of  distant  Maine,  while,  far  away  to  the  northwei . 
the  view  extends  into  the  Canadas.  The  tourist  will  be  amply 
rewarded  for  the  trouble  of  making  this  ascent  in  looking  upon 
the  whole  lake  and  mountain  picture  spread  before  him,  the  view 
unbioken  by  intervening  summits.  The  Moosilauk  Ilouae,  D. 
G.  Marsh,  proprietor,  is  a  commodious  and  well  kept  hotel  with 
first  class  livery  stables. 

From  Warren  the  course  of  the  railroad  is  northward,  passing 
"  Owl's  Head"  lying  off  to  the  right,  and  the  villages  of  Haverhill 
and  North  Haverhill  upon  the  left  The  elevated  line  of  the  road 
at  this  place  overlooks  the  wide  valley  and  the  great  bend  or 
"  Ox-bow"  in  the  Connecticut,  with  the  pleasant  villages  on 
either  side  of  the  river.  Including  the  fine  towns  of  Bradford  and 
Newbury  on  the  Vermont  side,  with  Mount  Pulaski  in  the  back- 
ground. The  express  train  in  the  pleasure  season  does  not  cross 
to  Wells  River,  but  sweeps  to  the  right  by  the  "  cut-off,"  leaving 
the  thriving  and  populous  village  of  Woodsville,  a  railroad  town  of 
recent  but  vigorous  growth,  to  the  left. 

The  mail  train,  following  the  express,  stops  at  ^11  stations,  and, 
at  Wells  River,  fornis  junction  with  the  Passumpsic  River  Rail- 
road for  Lakes  Willoughby  and  Memphremagog.  The  Wells  River 
and  Montpelier  Railroad,  when  completed,  will  take  passengers 
Irom  this  point  to  Montpelier,  Mounts  Mansfield  and  Camel's 
Hump,  Burlington,  Lake  Champlain,  Lake  George,  Saratoga 
Springs,  St.  Albans  and  Ogdensburg.  Until  the  completion  of 
this  rout^,  tourists  from  this  point  go  southward  to  White  River 
Junction,  uniting  with  the  Vermont  Central  line  at  that  point. 

NORTHWARD  TO  LITTETON. 

'■■-'■  .*     .  .  -•    -  -  ..' 

The  line  of  road  from  this  pomt,  the  White  Mountain  Division, 

passes  along  the  yalley  of  the  Wild  Ammonusuc  River,  which, 

from  its  sources  on  the  slopes  of  the  great  mountains,  abounds  in 

rapids  and  falls,  and  is  the  most  variable  and  wild  of  the  New 

England  streams,  descending  five  thousand  feet  from  its  source  to 

its  union  with  the  Connecticut 

Passing  through  Bath,  Lisbon  (the  gold  mines  of  this  town 

have  not  proved  of  inexhaustible  richness,  but  the  village  is  a 
4 


50 


NORTHERN   PLEASURE   TRAVEL. 


thriving  and  pleasant  station),  and  Nortli  Lisbon,  you  reaca  tlie 
important  town  of 

LITTLETON. 

This  point  is  reached  by  the  morning  express  train  from  Boston, 
at  3.30  P.M.  This  place  is  113  miles  from  Concord,  and  187  from 
Boston,  and  is  one  of  the  most  important  of  the  mountain  railway 
stations,  nearest  to  the  Profile  House  (distant  11  miles).  Rough 
and  manufactured  lumber,  agricultural  implements,  starch  and 
woolen  goods  are  here  made,  with  many  other  productions. 
There  is  a  bank  of  discount  and  savings  bank,  good  hotel  and 
boarding  accommodations,  a  live,  enterprising  people,  quiet  and 
seclusion  for  those  who  choose  it,  with  near  railroad  facilities. 
An  easy  day's  ride  will  carry  one  to  any  of  the  points  of  interest 
in  the  mountains  and  return.  Extensive  views  of  the  mountains 
can  be  had  from  the  elevations  in  the  immediate  vicinity. 

Stages  leave  for  the  Franco nia  Hills  immediately  on  arrival 
of  the  trains,  and,  if  you  withstand  the  temptation  to  tarry  here 
for  a  time,  or  for  the  night,  you  can  proceed  directly  on  your  way 
to  the  Profile  House.  Visitors  who  wisely  choose  to  stay  for  a 
time  at  Littleton,  will  find  superior  boarding  accommodations  at 
the 


***stx~,ta  \tsnnt 


OAK  HILL  HOUSE, 

finely  located  on  an  elevation.    It  is  a  favorite  resort  for  tourists, 
commanding  as  it  does  extensive  views  of  the  White  Mountains. 


NORTHERN    PLEASURE    TRAVEL.  51 

The  grounds,  five  acres,  are  fitted  up  with  a  view  of  fiimisiiing 
all  tlie  out-door  exercise  and  amusements  desired  by  patrons. 
The  house  is  supplied  with  the  purest  of  running  water  from  a 
never  falling  spriag.  Secluded  walks  and  retreats  abound  within 
a  short  distance  of  the  house.  A  good  billiard  and  bowling  saloon 
is  also  connected  v/ith  the  premises.  Five  minutes  walk  from 
railroad  station.  The  tables  are  supplied  with  all  the  luxuries  of 
the  season,  and  are  not  excelled.  Charles  C.  Knapp  &  Co.,  pro- 
prietors. 

At  the  Union  Hotels  near  the  railroad  station,  travelers  can 
be  faitiifully  dred  for  ^nd  liberally  served  with  little  of  parade 
or  pretension.  This  house  is  one  of  the  old  hotels  of  the  section, 
where  you  will  be  sure  of  faithful  attendance  and  substantial 
plenty.    Teams  also  furnished  when  desired. 

During  your  stay  at  this  place,  a  visit  should  be  made  to  the 
photographic  rooms  of  the  Kilbum  Brothers,  These  artists 
have  the  finest  collection  of  stereoscopic  views  of  mountain 
scenery  and  picturesque  localities  to  be  found  in  New  England. 
They  are  not  excelled  as  artists,  or  equalled  in  their  specialty  of 
view-taking  in  the  open  air,  being  themselves  enthusiastic  moun- 
taineers. Few  visitors  leave  the  mountains  without  a  collection 
of  their  fine  views  of  notable  localities  and  scenes,  as  souvenirs 
of  their  journey. 

FROM  LITTLETON  TO  FRANCONIA 

the  stage  route  is  a  winding  way  over  hills  and  through 
valleys,  and  the  journey,  in  fine  weather,  is  one  to  be  remem- 
bered with  pleasure.  Passing  through  the  village  of  Franconia 
(reputed  to  be  the  coldest  spot  in  the  United  States  in  winter,) 
you  seem,  in  some  stages  of  the  journey,  to  have  found  a  region 
of  complete  desolation ;  but,  in  the  sombre  stillness  of  the  fading 
day  the  shadows  ascend  slowly  to  the  mountain  summits,  whose 
tops  are  gilded  by  the  setting  sun,  and  you  sometimes  have  a 
succession  of  sunsets  as  you  move  toward  the  journey's  end. 
The  bare  and  grim  outlines  of  the  range  stand  out  against  the 
sky  as  you  near  a  hospitable  welcome  at  the 


52 


NORTHERN    PLEASURE   TRAVEL. 


PROFILE  HOUSE, 

situated  in  near  vicinity  of  the  many  natural  wonders  of  this 
mountain-range  and  shadowed  pass,  of  which,  and  of  the  hou^s 
itselt,  you  will  be  more  fully  informed  in  succeeding  pages. 

NORTHWARD  FROM    LITTLETON. 

If  your  destination  is  the  Crawford  House  (at  White  Mountain 
Notch),  Jkthlehem,  the  Twin  Mountain  House,  Fabyan  Place, 
White  Mountain  House  or  Mount  Washington  Summit,  you  will 
continue  on  from  Littleton  by  the  "Wing  Road,"  or  mountain 
branch  (diverging  from  the  main  line  above  Littleton)  to  the 
Twin  Mountain  House,  the  present  terminus  of  this  branch. 

BETHLEHEM, 

on  this  branch,  is  a  favorite  resort  during  the  summer  months, 
and  from  its  location  and  high  altitude  must  become  the  favorite 
residence  of  those  seeking  rest,  quiet  and  renewal  of  health.  It 
is  the  highest  table-land  (1,500  feet  elevation)  accessible  or 
desirable  as  a  residence  in  the  Eastern  States ;  and  the  pure  air, 
wide  prospect,  picturesque  scenes  and  surroundings  make  your 
stay  a  pleasant  one.    The  "street"  '>  a  long  line  of  scattered 


KOBTIIERN   PLEASURE    TRAVEL.  53 

houses  at  some  distance  from  the  railway  station,  and  from  this 
grand  plateau  and  favorable  distance,  the  outlook  upon  the 
mountains  is  grand  and  impressive.  With  little  travel  and 
fatigue  the  Franconia  Hills  may  be  seen  to  advantage.  Many 
invalids  are  sent  to  this  place  by  advice  of  physicians,  and  in  its 
pure  and  dry  atmosphere,  find  that  relief  which  those  who  seek 
mild  but  enervating  climates  fail  to  find.  The  Sinclair  House  is 
a  hotel  of  good  repute,  large,  commodious  ^d  complete  in  its 
provision  for  the  comfort  of  patrons,  where  all  can  And  the  best 
attendance  and  fullest  facilities  for  enjoying  their  stay  in  this 
mountain  town. 

The  Twin  Mountain  House,  hereafter  fully  described,  in  Carroll 
township  near  the  Twin  Mountains,  is  the  present  terminus 
of  the  Wing  Road  to  the  mountains.  From  this  point  stages 
convey  you  without  delay  to  the  Faby»,a,  White  Mountain  or 
Crawford  Houses,  or  to  Amnionusuc  Station  at  Marshfleld, 
where  cars  of  the  Mount  Washington  Railway  are  taken  for  the 
summit.  Piissengers  by  the  morning  express  from  Boston,  Fall 
River,  Providence,  New  London  and  intermediate  points  may 
complete  their  journey  to  the  highest  summit  in  a  single  day, 
without  inconvenience,  by  the  line  described.  But  many  will 
end  the  day's  journey  in  sumptuous  ease  beneath  the  roof  of  this 
extensive  mountain  home  and  continue  their  trip  more  at  leisure. 
,  Those  who  do  not  leave  for  the  mountains  at  Littleton,  or  by 
the  Wing  Road,  pass  directly  on  to 

WHITEFILD. 

This  is  an  important  station,  with  its  extensive  steam  lumber 
mills,  established  by  those  genuine  Yankee  lumbermen,  the  Brown 
Brothers  and  their  associates.  They  have  all  the  appliances  for 
extensive  manufacture,  including  a  forest  railway  of  several 
miles  in  length,  with  ample  rolling  stock,  extending  to  their  great 
lumber  tracts  around  Pondicherry.  These  mills  are  well  worth 
a  visit,  being  among  the  most  complete  in  the  state,  and  should 
the  genial  "Doctor,"  whose  brains  and  cash  make  him  tlie  all 
important  "  Co."  of  the  firm,  be  present,  you  will  be  sure  of  a 
welcome  in  which  the  suavity  and  energy,  which  combine  in 
equal  proportions  in  this  character,  are  both  apparent ;  success 


54  NORTHERN   PLEASURE   TRAVEL. 

• 

to  him  and  his  enterprising  associates  In  their  extensive  opera- 
tions. They  also  have  important  mills  three  miles  from  Went- 
worth  Station,  on  the  railroad  below. 

Whenever  permanent  hotel  accommodations  are  provided  here 
It  must  become  a  favorite  point  for  approach  to  the  mountains, 
being  distant  from  the  Twin  Mountain  House  but  8  miles,  and  from 
the  Crawford  House,  17  miles.  Kimball  Hill,  a  mile  and  a  half 
from  the  village  is  a  favorite  point  for  extensive  views,  and  here 
the  curious  have  found  what  appears  to  be  moccasin  tracks  In  the 
solid  granite.  This  is  becoming  a  favorite  place  of  resoit  for 
summer  boarders,  and,  from  its  heavy  lumber  trade,  is  one  of  the 
most  important  Ireight  stations  on  the  line.  The  Portland  and 
Ogdensburg  Railroad  will  intersect  the  Boston,  Concord  and 
Montreal  Railroad  at  this  point,  bringing  Increase  of  traivel  frcn! 
*iieW  localities,  and  adding  to  the  importance  of  the  station, 

LANCASTER, 

distant  from  Concord  135  miles,  from  Boston  208  miles  —  the 
most  important  town  of  Coos  County,  and  located  among  the 
finest  of  scenery,  is  the  destination  of  mauy  of  our  number.  The 
intervales  of  the  Connecticut,  at  this  point,  are  not  surpassed 
by  any  upon  its  whole  course,  while  rare  views  are  had  of  the 
distant  Franconia  Mountains,  the  great  White  Mountain  range, 
the  Percy  Peaks  and  Pilot  Range,  and  the  Lunenburg  Hills 
in  Vermont.  Here  the  tourist  in  high  health,  who  has  the  secret 
learned 

"  To  mix  his  blood  with  sunshine,  and  to  take 
The  winds  into  his  pulses," 

can  have  unequalled  facility  for  sporting'  and  the  enjoyment  of 
savage  vigor.  It  is  also  a  place  of  resort  for  invalids,  especially 
for  those  troubled  with  asthmatic  and  lung  difficulties  and  "  hay 
fever" ;  for  such,  relief  is  said  to  come  with  certainty  in  the  genial 
air  of  the  village ;  Cc;rtainly,  few  lovelier  spots  could  be  chosen  in 
which  to  recuperate  wasted  energies  and  correct  the  injurious 
effects  of  exposure  to  enervating  influences  of  crowded  cities  or 
injurious  climate.  The  winter  views  from  this  point  are  spoken 
of  with  admiration  by  those  whose  artistic  tastes  are  admitted  to 
be  above  contradiction. 


KOKTUKRN    PLEASURE   TRAVEL.  55 

Lancaster  was  chartered  in  1763.  **A11  pine  trees  witliin  said 
township  fit  for  masting  our  Royal  Navy  to  be  carefully  preserved 
for  that  use,  and  none  to  be  cut  or  felled  without  special 
license."  The  grant  was  to  David  Page  and  others,  covering 
23,040  acres.  The  original  settlers  were  from  Petersham  and 
Rutland,  Mass.,  and  were  a  hardy  and  self-reliant  race.  There 
were  no  highways  for  several  years  after  settlement,  and  the 
nearest  mills  were  at  Charlestown  and  Plymouth.  Th»iir  frugal 
fare  is  thus  described  by  a  facile  writer: 

"Emmons  Stock  well  kept  a  huge  mortar,  which  held  about  two 
bushels ;  into  this  they  put  their  corn,  beans  and  rye ;  then  they 
pounded  it  with  a  great  wooden  pestle,  as  none  but  them  could 
.pound.  With  this  they  mixed  potatoes,  well  baked  and  peeled, 
and  the  vegetables  their  tsistes  might  select ;  the  whole  was  baked 
together  into  magnificent  Thump.  Seasoned  with  good  appetites, 
it  was  found  a  delicious  dish  by  the  early  inhabitants  of  our 
glorious  old  town. 

"The  tables  of  these  hardy  pioneers  had  other  dainties.  The 
rivers  and  streams  were  full  of  fish,  and  the  forest  of  moose  and 
game ;  and  our  ancestors  of  both  sexes  could  use  the  rifle  and 
the  rod  with  astonishing  skill. 

«  «  «  * 

"It  was  many  years  before  wheelwrights  or  wheels  were  found 
in  Lancaster.  The  early  settlers  transported  their  merchandise 
upon  two  long  poles,  fastened  by  a  cross-piece.  One  end 
answered  for  shafts,  to  which  the  horse  was  attached,  the  other 
dragged  upon  the  ground." 

Harrassed  by  Indians,  dispirited  by  failures,  and  cheered  by  no 
bright  future,  the  settlement  was  at  one  time  to  be  abandoned ; 
but  one  dauntless  spirit  clung  to  the  fair  valley  "for  belter  or  for 
worse,"  and,  by  force  of  heroic  example,  saved  the  colony,  and 
permanently  founded  this  noble  town,  set  in  the  loveliest  of  valleys, 
and  circled  by  distant  peaks  and  mountains. 

The  tourist  will  travel  far  to  find  a  lovelier  village,  surrounded 
with  more  of  the  varied  and  romantic  in  natural  scenery,  or  of 
neatness  and  advantage  in  the  accommodations  for  pleasant  resi- 
dence. The  waters  are  pure  in  their  fresh  escape  from  the  bosom 
of  great  hills;  and  the  summer  winds  are  cooled  by  contact  with 
the  bald  summits  of  the  mountains. 


56 


NOBTHERN  PLEA8UBE  TRAVEL. 


This  Is  the  shire  town  of  the  highland  county  of  Coos,  and  here 
centres  much  of  tlie  professional,  mechanical,  and  agricultural 
business  of  northern  New  Hampshire.  Church-going  people  of 
every  denomination  can  here  select  their  favorite  form  of  wor- 
ship, including  an  Episcopal  Parish  recently  organized.  There 
is  an  Academy,  established  a  half  century  since,  a  Grade  school, 
and  the  various  branches  of  trade  are  carried  on  in  stores  which 
would  be  attractive  beside  many  in  the  large  cities. 

The  visitor  at  this  place  will  find  in  the  elegant  and  commodious 


LANCASTER  HOUSE, 

B.  H.  Corning,  Manager,  as  fine  a  hotel  as  the  mountain  region 
can  boast.  Fish,  game  and  fruits,  fresh  from  the  surrounding 
region,  commodious  rooms,  and  liberal  accommodations  in  every 
department  give  assurance  of  personal  comfort.  Drives  in  the 
surrounding  country  and  to  noted  points  in  the  mountains  from 
this  point  will  reveal  unsurpassed  diversity  and  charm  in  land- 
scape, while  the  railroad  connections  are  such  as  to  afford  the 
greatest  facility  to  travelers  and  business  men.  The  sidewalks 
and  crossings  of  the  village  streets  are  superior  to  those  of  many 
larger  towns,  adding  greatly  to  the  comfort  and  pleasure  of  citi- 
zens and  visitors. 
Trains  connect  with  the  Grand  Trunk  Railway  daily  for  the 


NOBTIIKRN    PLEASURE   TBAVEL. 


57 


Cunadas,  and  the  eastern  approaches  to  the  mountains  at  Gorham 
and  the  Glen,  and  by  the  Montreal  road  for  the  White  and  Fran- 
conia  Mountains,  the  Mount  Washington  Uailway,  Lake  Winnl- 
pesauivee,  Boston,  tlie  lower  cities  and  New  Yorlv.  Stajje  leaves 
Lancaster  on  arrival  of  the  train  from  Boss  ton  about  5  o'clock  P. 
M.  for  the  ^ 

WAUMBKK  HOUSE,   JEFFERSON   HILLS, 

distant  seven  miles,  and  located  at  the  foot  of  Starr  King  Moun- 
tain. Speaking  of  the  view  from  these  hills,  Mr.  King  says: 
"  They  may,  without  exaggeration,  be  called  the  ultima  ihule  of 
grandeur,  in  an  artistic  pilgrimage  among  the  New  Hampshire 
mountains."  Here  the  mountains,  marshalled  in  a  vast  arc  of 
circling  summits,  present  a  wide  sweep  of  landscape  of  a  magni- 
tude rarely  met  even  in  this  land  of  bold  and  startling  prospects. 
This  favorite  hotel,  kept  by  Merrill  &  Plaisted,  is  supplied  with 
the  freshest  of  country  products  from  the  neighboring  pastures 
and  streams,  and  the  accommodations  are  such  as  must  please 
those  who  give  the  agreeable  landlords  their  patronage,  while  the 
view  from  its  piazzas  is  a  changing  picture  of  majestic  outline, 
bathed  in  sunlight  and  swept  by  moving  shadows  and  changing 
hues.  In  the  immediate  vicinity  of  this  hotel  the  pleasant  moun- 
tain boarding  house,  the 


SUNNYSIDE  HOUSE, 


NORTHERN  PLEASURE  TRAVEL.  59 

by  Cliarlos  L.  Plalstod,  Is  a  new,  neat  and  cheerful  home  for 
thwe  who  seek  for  quiet  and  comfort  among  the  uneijualled  pros- 
pects and  attractions  of  this  beautiAiI  mountain  town.  Destroyed 
by  fire  the  past  winter,  it  has  risen  phcrnix-lilve  from  tlie  a-shes 
with  a  promptness  indicating  the  needful  energy  in  the  proprietor. 
A  foot-path  leads  to  tlie  summit  of  Starr  King  Mountain,  and  one 
of  the  finest  summit  views  in  the  whole  mountain  range.  A  good 
livery  stalile  accommodates  guests.  The  outlook  Is  upon  the 
White,  Franconia,  Green,  Cherry  and  Starr  King  mountains. 

NORTHUMBERLAND  JUNCTION, 

uniting  here  with  the  Grand  Trunk  Railway.  A  thriving  settle- 
ment has  sprung  up  at  this  point  since  It  became  important  as  a 
railroad  town.  The  trains  connect  at  this  point  with  all  trains 
over  Grand  Trunk  to  and  from  Lancaster. 

Without  delay  passengers  may  proceed  in  fine  parlor  cars,  if 
desired,  to  the  great  Canadian  cities  over  the  line  of  the 

Grand  Trunk  Railway, 

fast  becoming  one  of  the  safest  lines  of  travel  in  the  country. 
The  great  Improvements  In  progress  on  this  line  by  change  of 
grade,  renewal  of  rolling  stock,  and  the  substitution  of  steel  rails, 
will  greatly  add  to  the  comfort  of  patrons  of  this  line  and  accom- 
modate the  increasing  travel  to  Canadian  cities  and  places  of 
attraction.  Many  tourists  leave  the  cars  of  this  line  at  North 
Stratford  and  take  stage  from  thence  to  Colkbrook,  where 
at  the  Parson's  House,  Remick,  proprietor,  conveyance  and  all 
needful  help  will  be  furnished  for  visiting  that  northern  moun- 
tain pass, 

DIXVILLE  NOTCH, 

the  most  northern  of  the  great  natural  wonders  that  crowd 
the  White  Mountain  region.  It  Is  a  dreary,  forbidding  and 
desolate  pass,  between  vast  decaying  ledges  and  pillars  ot  rock, 
threading  the  narrow  roadway,  which  is  maintained  with  some 
difficulty  at  the  expense  of  the  State.  There  Is  no  hotel  at  the 
Notch,  but  it  is  fast  becoming  a  place  of  resort  from  Colebrook, 


60  KORTIIERN    PLEASURE   TRAVEL. 

And  many  pass  on  tlirouj^h  the  Notch  to  camp  llf<',  hy  the  three 
lakes  at  tho  head  watrrs  of  the  Connecticut,  and  trouti'j?  by  the 
wild  wat*Ts  of  the  Ma^alloway  river.  Within  and  about  the 
Notch  are  many  objects  of  Interent  The  Silver  Cjwcade  is  a 
wild  wat(;rfall  at  the  northern  outlet  of  the  Notch.  Ladders 
descend  the  rocky  bed  leading  to  the  best  point  for  a  full  view, 
and  seats  are  arranged  for  the  convenience  of  vhltors.  The 
Flume  Is  a  waterway  well  worth  Inspection,  the  bare  walla 
standing  8<|uarely  uprlj?ht  as  though  hewn  by  the  hand  of  an 
aillsan.  The  Pulpit  Is  a  bold  buttress  of  stone,  more  like  the 
elaborate  pulpit  of  "  ye  olden  times"  than  the  modern  ^tyle.  Here 
also  is  a  veritable  "  Old  Man  of  the  Mountain,"  of  diminutive  size 
when  compared  with  the  grand  "  Profile"  of  the  Franconla  range, 
but  i)erfect  In  Its  resemblance  to  the  facial  outline.  These  lind 
other  points  are  Indicated  by  signboards  liberally  scattered  along 
the  way  by  the  owner  of  the  lands.  The  ascent  to  Table  Hock 
(800  feet  perpendicular  height),  the  hi^liest  pinnacle,  may  now  be 
easily  made  by  rude  steps  cut  to  facilitate  climbing.  The  view 
from  this  dizzy  height  is  one  to  l)e  sought  and  remembered. 

If  you  return  to  Northumberland,  or,  before  leaving  there 
for  tlie  north,  you  may  proceed  southward  some  twenty-five 
miles  by  Grand  Trunk  Railway  to  • 

GORHAM, 

• 

in  the  Androscoggin*  Valley,  at  the  mouth  of  Peabody  River, 
distant  from  the  eastern  base  of  Mount  Washington,  only  eight 
miles,  and  a  favorite  point  from  which  to  make  the  ascent  by 
carnage  or  on  horseback,  the  roads  leading  to  the  summit  from 
this  point  being  in  excellent  condition  and  teams  are  always 
obtainable.  Before  its  destruction  by  fire  the  Alpine  House  was 
a  favorite  hotel,  and  travel  from  the  east  and  from  Portland 
naturally  made  this  one  of  the  favorite  points  of  approach.  The 
scenery  to  be  viewed  from  the  village  is  bold  and  peculiar. 
Mount  Moriah  (4,80()  feet  high);  Mount  Carter  (5,00()  feet),  the 
lesser  "  Imp  "  and  the  Pilot  range  of  hills,  with  Mount  Hayes,  are 
in  the  immediate  vicinity.  Mount  Madison  of  the  White  Moun- 
tain range  is  visible,  and  by  taking  a  stroll  of  no  great  distance, 
the  whole  range  may  be  brought  in  view.    Stages  run  from  this 


NOBTIIERN   rLEA8UB£  TBAVEL.  61 

point  to  the  Glen  House,  where  the  aacent  of  Mount  Wn^hington 
conitnencuM,  tind  coiiveyuuce  muy  be  had  here  tor  ull  the  niuuu- 
taiii  h()Uhe»  uiui  pohitM  ut  hitereHt  in  tlie  mouuluintt;  wliiie  visitors 
at  GurliHUi  or  tlic  Glen  ilouHe,  or  ft'oin  any  ]Miint  on  tlie  line  of 
tlie  Grand  Trunk  iCuilway,  can  proceed  to  Nortiiunjl)erland, 
and,  from  tliat  point,  reach  by  rail  any  station  on  tlie  lioaton, 
Concord  and  Montreal  liailroad  and  its  ''  W  ing"  or  niountalii 
branch.  Lanca.>U.'r  being  i  })oint  attracting  many  from  thitt 
direction  by  its  varied  charms.  The  "  Wing"  road  diverges  to 
reach  the  Crawford  Notch  and  Mount  Washington  llailway,  and 
Littleton  in  the  point  of  approach  to  the  Franconia  Kange. 
Wells  Kiver  is  the  point  of  union  with  the  Passumpsic  Uiver  and 
Connecticut  Ulver  lines. 

Kind  reader  we  have  now  brought  you  along  the  western  view 
of  the  hills,  past  the  bright  waters  of  the  lakes,  along  uie  northern 
outline  of  the  mountains,  and  have  swept  around  u|K>n  tlieir 
eastern  limits  and  up  to  the  most  northern  pass  with  oidy  such 
digressions  as  seemed  necessary  to  a  complete  description  of  the 
route  and  outlying  scenery  with  facilities  lor  reaching  interesting 
points.  We  will  now  take  a  general  view  of  the  mountain  region 
and  tlien  proceed  to  nioi-e  minute  notice  of  particulai*  localities. 

THE  WHITE  MOUNTAIN  RANGE. 

A  modern  writer  has,  in  poetic  and  expressive  language, 
described  the  mountains  as  **outbursts  of  the  globe's  passion" — 
"witnesses  of  a  pent  up  fury" — "upspringing  wedges  of  rock, 
f  inging  the  garment  of  soil  away,  tilting  and  separating  the 
strata  through  whicli  they  break,  and  standing  bare  for  the 
scrutiny  of  science." 

Terrible  must  have  been  tlie  throes  of  nature  which  upheaved 
the  masses  of  the  granite  hills — known  in  common  language  as 
the  White  Mountains — given  as  a  general  name  for  the  whole 
mountain  region  of  northern  New  Hampshire,  but  properly 
belonging  to  the  eastern  and  more  extensive  range,  of  which 
Mount  Washington  (6,285  feet  in  height)  is  the  crowuing  glory. 
They  are  called  White  ftom  the  tact  that,  during  the  larger 
pait  of  the  year  tlie  snow  remains  upon  the  towering  summits, 
yielding  only  to  the  intense  heat  of  mid-summer,  and  are  the 


62  NORTHERN    PLEASURE   TRAVEL. 

highest  peaks  east  of  the  Mississippi,  excepting  the  high  suni« 
mits  of  tlie  Black  Mountains  in  North  Carollnr^ 

The  "White  Mountain  Notch"  Is  the  frowning  pass  peculiar  to 
this  range,  also  the  pjiss  known  as  Plnkham  Notch,  and,  away 
to  the  north,  Dixville  Notch.  The  range  covers  some  forty 
miles  square  of  country,  and  lies  In  the  counties  of  Coos  and 
Grafton. 

The  principal  summits  are  Mount  Webster,  (4,000  feet  eleva- 
tion); Mount  Jackson,  (4,000  feet);  Mount  Clinton,  (4,200  feet); 
Mount  Pleasant,  (4,800  feet);  Mount  Franklin,  (4,900  feet); 
Mount  Monroe,  (5,300  feet);  Mount  Jefferson,  (5,710  feet); 
Mount  Adams,  (5,800  feet) ;  and  Mount  Washington,  (6,285 
leet.)  On  the  top  of  Mount  Jefferson  is  a  pond  of  considerable 
extent,  with  no  visible  outlet,  but  with  waters  clear  as  crystal 
and  cold  as  ice.  The  ascent  of  this  summit  is  seldom  made  so 
rugged  Is  the  way. 

Within  the  central  cluster  of  the  highest  peaks  of  this  range, 
In  near  proximity,  are  the  sources  of  the  Ammonusuc,  the  Saco, 
the  Peabody,  Ellis  and  Moose  Rivers ;  the  waters  of  one  reaching 
Long  Island  Sound  through  the  winding  Connecticut,  the  others, 
by  western  slopes,  reach  the  Atlantic  on  the  uastern  coast 
Along  these  rivers,  and  on  the  swift  mountain  streams  which 
feed  them,  are  the  cascades  and  fallSj  which  relieve  the  rugged- 
ness  of  the  slopes  and  gorges  as  laughter  lightens  the  hum- 
drum realities  of  every  day  business.  In  the  swales  around  the 
mountains  are  the  great  forests  whence  the  lumbermen  supply 
the  demand  of  the  older  towns.  There  is  a  story  of  a  pine  in  the 
old  primeval  forests  towards  Lancaster,  264  feet  In  height,  long 
since  put  to  use. 

The  Notch,  only  twenty-two  feet  wide  at  Its  entrance,  next  to 
Mount  Washington,  and  the  view  from  its  summit  Is  the  great 
natural  feature  of  tlie  range.  It  Is  three  miles  In  length,  the 
towering  cliffs  reaching  In  some  places  2,000  feet  In  height.  The 
Crawford  House  is  near  its  northern  entrance,  and  is  the  point 
from  which  to  visit  Its  wonders.  The  headwaters  of  the  Saco 
flow  through  the  pass,  which  Is  the  thoroughfare  for  travel  from 
Littleton,  Bethlehem,  and  localities  on  the  Connecticut  and  Am- 
monusuc to  Conway  and  the  Saco  Valley,  or  the  reverse ;  though, 
since  the  completion  of  the 


NORTHERN   PLEASURE   TRAVEL.  63 


MOUNT  WASHINGTON  RAILWAY 

much  of  the  pleasure  travel  goes  over  Mount  Washington,  as- 
cending by  rail  for  three  miles  from  the  lower  station  to  the 
Mount  Washington  House,  recently  erected  on  the  summit. 
This  road,  rising  in  some  portions  2,000  feet  to  the  mile,  and  an 
average  rise  of  one  foot  in  four,  offers  a  mode  of  ascent  which  has 
become  the  great  sensation  of  the  mountain  trip,  and  done  away 
with  the  fatigue  attending  the  journey  on  horseback.  Descending 
on  the  east  side  to  the  Glen  House,  by  the  carriage  roadway,  the 
excursionist  has  a  delightful  and  novel  experience  of  mountain 
staging,  with  little  of  fatigue  or  exhausting  effort.  This  journey 
of  a  day  is  one  not  to  be  forgotten.    Well  might  Whittier  sing : 

"  With  smoking  axle  hot  with  speed,  with  steeds  of  fire  and  st«am, 
Wide-waked  to-day,  leaves  yesterday  behind  him  like  a  dream." 

THE  FRANCONIA  EANGE 

is  the  group  of  hills  of  a  lesser  elevation  than  the  WTiite  Moun- 
tains proper,  and  wanting,  perhaps,  in  the  sublime  and  overpow- 
ering grand  uer  that  marks  their  rugged  ascents  and  terrific  and 
desolate  walls,  but  abounding  in  beautiful  and  enchanting  objects 
of  interest.  Lafayette  is  the  crowning  peak,  being  5,585  feet 
above  sea  level.    The  ascent  is  made  from  the  Flume  House. 

Franconia  Notch  is  a  pass  with  close  and  precipitous  walls, 
of  about  five  miles  in  extent,  between  Mount  Lafayette  and  Mount 
Cannon.  The  valley  is  about  half  a  mile  in  width,  and  is  a  huge 
receptacle  of  the  curious,  the  wild,  and  the  beautiful  in  mountain 
scenery.  ^ 

THE  GREAT  STONE  PORTRAIT. 

"  Full  human  profile,  nose  and  chin  distinct, 
Mouth  muttering  rhythms  of  silence  up  the  sky, 
And  fed  at  evening  with  the  blood  of  suns." 

A  wonderful  copy  of  the  human  features,  coUossal  in  propor- 
tions, yet  faithful  and  clear  in  its  lines,  is  the  great  natural  attrac- 
tion sought  by  strangers.  The  length  of  the  face  has  been  ascer- 
tained to  be  not  less  than  eighty  feet.    It  looks  from  the  southern 


64  NORTHERN    PLEASURE    TRAVEL. 

face  of  Cannon  or  Trofile  Mountain  "  awful  but  benignant,"  en- 
chaining the  interest  of  every  beholder. 

Echo  Lake,  Tue  liAsiN,  The  Pool,  The  Flume,  with  its 
fcuspended  boulder  and  cascades,  and  the  ascent  of  Mount  La- 
layette  are  leatures  ol  the  Franconia  Kange  fully  described  in 
tucceeding  pages,  and  seen  by  excursions  tiom  the  Prolile  and 
Flume  Houses. 

The  Frohle  House,  at  the  northern  entrance  to  the  Notch,  and 
in  near  vicinity  of  Eagle  (Jlitl",  Echo  Lake  and  the  Frohle,  is  the 
great  resort  of  travelers  and  tourists,  while  the  smaller  but  ex- 
cellently kept  and  located  I'iume  House,  at  the  southern  entrance 
and  near  the  Flume,  the  Fool  and  other  attractions,  is  a  place  of 
much  resort.  The  facility  with  which  these  houses  may  be 
reached  from  Littleton  or  from  Plymouth  by  stage  route  up  the 
valley,  and  the  varied  beauty  and  attractiveness  of  the  range 
brings  a  yearly  increasing  tide  of  Pilgrims  to  enjoy  the  wealth  of 
beauiy  here  to  be  found. 

HISTOlllCAL  AND  DESCKIPTIVE. 

In  sober  matter  of  fact  New  England,  the  wild  region  of  the 
mountains  is  peculiarly  bare  of  that  histoiical  interest  and 
legendary  lore  which  has  given  to  every  crag  and  ravine  of  Scot- 
land and  Switzerland  a  name  and  fame  in  romance  and  story ;  the 
names,  even,  of  the  grandest  peaks  and  gorges,  excepting  the 
lew  musical  ones  of  Indian  origin,  lack  the  merest  suggestion  of 
romantic  beauty. 

One  Haiby  J? ield  appears^'to  have  been  the  first  white  man  who 
looked  from  the  highest  summit  upon  the  wild  and  rugged  country 
below.  His  account,  hke  that  of  most  early  discoverers,  was 
garnished  with  account  of  shining  stones  and  riches  in  prospect. 
Vines  and  Gorges,  magistrates  of  Sir  Fernando  Gorges,  went 
thither  in  the  fail  of  the  same  year  (1642),  ascending  the  Saco 
in  canoes;  they  appear  to  have  ascended  one  of  the  highest 
summits  and  made  report  not  remarkable  tor  accuracy.  An 
eaily  chronicler  has  described  the  country  to  the  north  of  the 
principal  summit  as  *'  daunting  terrible,  being  full  of  rocky  hills 
and  cloathed  with  iutiuite  thick  woods,"  and  as  a  proof  of  his 
theory  that  the  mountains  were  hollow,  cites  the  "  resounding 


NORTHERN   PLEASURE   TRATEL.  65 

of  the  rain"  upon  the  rocky  summits.  The  Great  White  Moun- 
tain Notch  was  discovered  in  1791  by  two  hunters  —  Nash  and 
Sawyer.  In  1816,  a  pany  of  scientiflc  gentlemen  made  extensive 
botanical  collections,  and  determined  altitudes.  In  1820,  the 
whole  range  was  explored  by  a  party  from  Lancaster,  altitudes 
of  the  highest  summits  were  established  and  the  mountains 
received  the  names  by  which  they  have  since  been  known. 

With  the  early  settlement  of  this  rugged  and  forbidding  region 
the  name  of  the  Crawfords  is  inseparably  connected,  as  opening 
the  first  ways  of  ascent  to  the  mountain  summits  and  preserving 
a  thorough  knowledge  of  the  hills.  The  tragic  story  of  the 
Willey  family  is  told  in  succeeding  pages,  and  is,  perhaps  so 
lamiliar  as  to  need  no  repetition.  The  desolate  experiences  and 
hardships  of  the  isolated  pioneers  whose  names  even  are  forgotten, 
who  first  established  their  rude  homes  in  this  rugged  and  forbid- 
ding land,  die  out  with  the  grey  heads  of  the  venerable  actors, 
but  perseverence  so  marked  and  sufferings  so  unselfish  should 
have  been  preserved  by  the  genius  of  some  American  Scott,  or 
live  in  the  songs  of  a  Whittier,  through  the  passing  years. 

In  climbing  the  highest  summits,  the  tourist  passes  first 
through  the  dense  woods  around  their  bases,  lessening  in  height 
and  thinning  to  the  hardier  varieties  as  the  path  enters  the  region 
of  dwarfed  shrubs  and  clinging  mosses,  and,  finally,  emerges  upon 
the  bare  and  desolate  rocks  of  the  higher  summits  bearing  no 
mark  of  the  action  of  waves  or  of  drift,  clothed  only  with 
lichens,  mosses,  and  such  plants  as  are  peculiar  to  Polar  regions. 
Many  of  the  lesser  mountains  are  beautifully  wooded  over  their 
entire  summits.  '  L        i 

•  The  mountains  in  winter  present  to  the  appreciative  observer 
tlie  rarest  beauty.  Until  within  the  last  few  years  few  travelers 
have  had  the  hardihood  to  inspect  its  scenery  when  clothed  in 
the  snowy  mantle  which  veils  the  summits  for  so  many  months. 
For  the  last  three  winters  parties  have  resided  through  the  entire 
season  upon  the  summit  of  Mount  Washington,  in  the  interest  of 
science,  and  have  made  valuable  observations  regarding  the 
strength  of  the  winds,  the  temperature  and  phenomena  of  these 
high  altitudes,  and  witnessed  the  sublime  and  novel  scenes  pre- 
sented from  this  elevation  through  the  inclement  months. 


66  VORXnSBN   PLEASURE   TRAVIL. 

Traces  of  the  Indians  once  inhabiting  the  mountain  region  are 
frequently  found  near  the  rivers  and  the  ponds — about  Conway, 
Fryeburg  and  Ossipee  their  implements,  mounds  and  encamp- 
ments are  seen,  and  their  musical  tongue  is  preserved  in  the 
names  of  Chucorua,  the  Pemigewasset,  Ammonusuc,  Winnipe- 
saukee,  Androscoggin  and  other  streams. 

In  the  cold  waters  of  the  mountain  streams  is  the  home  of  the 
shy  and  beautiful  trout,  and  the  delicate  art  of  coaxing  these  shy 
dwellers  from  their  emerald  pools  and  shaded  nooks,  is  enthusi- 
astically practiced  by  those  who,  each  summer,  make  their  home 
for  a  time  among  the  hills.  The  mineral  wealth  of  the  mountain 
region  is  not  great.  The  gold  excitement  at  Lisbon  was  of  short 
duration.  Plumbago  and  iron  are  found  in  superior  quality  in 
the  valley  of  the  Pemigewasset ;  iron  near  Franconia,  and  iron 
and  tin  on  the  eastern  slope  of  the  White  Mountain  Range  near 
jT,ckson. 

THE  FRANCONIA  NOTCH.  •    . 

In  curious  rocky  shapes  and  forms,  and  the  wild  sublimity  with 
which  crags  and  forests,  lakes  and  waterfalls  combine  in  startling 
pictures,  this  mountain-shadowed  pass  of  some  five  mUes  in  length 
is  unrivalled  in  the  whole  mountain  tour.     With  less  of  towering 
majesty,  vastness  of  outline  and  desolate  grandeur  than  the  White 
Mountain  Notch,  there  is  more  of  grace  in  tlie  sweeping  curves 
and  frowning  scenery  of  this  shadowed  valley,  more  of  variety  in 
form  and  combination,  and  of  permanent  attractiveness  iu  its 
general  characteristics  and  contrasts.     Visitors  to  this  mountain- 
walled  museum  of  nature  will  find  in  the  fine  location,  the  excel- 
lent arrangements  and  spacious  design  of  the   Profile   House, 
promise  ot  that  generous  entertainment  and  faithful  attendance 
which  is  fulfilled  in  all  the  details  of  management.     Situated  on  a 
level  plateau  of  a  few  acres,  nearly  two  thousand  feet  above  sea 
level,  and  enclosed  by  the  great  hills,  it  is  near  to  "  The  Great 
Stone  Face"  on  Cannon  Mountain,  "Eagle  Clifi;"  *' Profile  Lake" 
and  "Mount  Lafayette,"  and  but  five  miles  from  "The  Flume," 
**  The  Pool "  and  the  Flume  House,  and  seven  miles  to  "  Harvard 
Falls." 

For  several  years  the  Profile  House  has  had  a  crowd  of  patrons. 


NOBTHERN   PLEASrRE   TRAVEL.  67 

The  accommodations  are  for  four  hundred  guests,  and  are  on  the 
most  liberal  and  extensive  scale.  The  ample  grounds,  command- 
ing, wide  and  beautiful  views,  are  crowded  during  the  pleasure 
season  with  a  happy  company  gathered  from  all  parts  of  the  land, 
who  find  here  that  cleanliness  and  attention,  with  th'tt  ample  and 
substantial  profusion  oi  viands,  which  mountain  air  and  exercise 
make  more  than  elsewhere,  a  necessity. 

The  parlor  and  dining  hall  are  spacious  and  elegant  (about  100 
by  50  feet  area),  and  are  lighted  with  gas.  The  telegraph  runs 
to  this  point,  and  the  man  of  business  may  receive  his  mails  wiih 
regularity,  and  send  his  commands  along  the  wires,  while  he 
gathers  strength  in  the  mountain  air,  and  marvels  among  the 
mysteries  of  the  hills. 

Stages,  twice  each  day^  leave  for  Plymouth,  via  the  Pemige- 
wasset  valley,  and  for  Littleton,  connecting  with  express  trains 
on  the  Boston,  Concord  and  Montreal  Railroad ;  also  stages  each 
day  for  the  Fabyau  Place,  Twin  Mountain  House,  Crawford 
House  and  Mount  Washington  Railway. 

Perhaps  the  first  prominent  object  to  attract  the  stranger's  eye 
will  be  the  precipitous  crag  fronting  the  hotel,  and  seen  to  advan- 
tage from  its  grounds,  towering  some  fifteen  hundred  feet  above 
the  road,  known  as 

EAGLE  CLIFF, 

A  pair  of  mountain  eagles  once  had  their  eyry  high  up  in  the 
rocky  caverns  near  the  summit,  hence  the  name.  The  cliff"  is 
seen  to  best  advantage  from  Profile  Lake,  especially  through  the 
fogs  and  mists  that  hang  about  it  at  times,  to  rise  and  melt  in  the 
bm'uing  sunlight,  or  when  gilded  by  the  lights  of  morning  or 
fading  tints  of  evening.  A  short  ascent  up  the  side  of  Cannon 
Mountain  gives  a  point  of  view  from  which  ail  the  boldness  of 
the  cliff'  will  be  seen  standing  out  in  impressive  majesty. 

To  the  rear  of  the  hotel,  reached  by  footpath  through  the  woods, 
a  small  brook  plunges  in  a  succession  of  falls  down  the  rugged 
ledges  of  the  hillside,  giving  you,  if  you  are  fortunate  to  see  it 
after  its  volume  has  been  swelled  by  rains,  a  most  plea^ng  and 
attractive  sight  which   will  prove   a   fitting    introduction   to 


68  NORTHERN    PLEASURE  TRAVEL. 

greater  wonders  yet  unseen.  The  pleasing  picture  spread  before 
you  of  tlie  quiet  lake  below,  the  mountains,  valleys  and  foreste, 
which  you  here  overlook,  will  amply  repay  you  for  the  climbing. 
Beneath  "  Eagle  Clill,"  northward  from  the  hotel  a  short  dis- 
tance from  the  Franconia  road,  locked  within  a  circle  of  hills  and 
embosomed  in  green  forest  is  the  wonderful  and  widely  famed 
little  sheet  of  water  known  as 

ECHO    LAKE. 

Floating  upon  its  silvery  surface  in  the  boat  provided  for 
visitors,  you  may  wake  resounding  and  multiplying  echoes  from 
the  circling  mountains.  Your  halloo  comes  back  from  many  hills 
as  though  a  mocking  circle  of  sentinels  caught  up  the  sound  ia 
succession,  lessening  in  volume  and  force  until  it  takes  its  flight 
far  away  in  the  fastnessess  of  the  ravines.  The  blast  of  a  bugle 
or  horn  comes  back  in  softened  repetition  of  musical  echoes  and 
re-echoes  dying  out  in  waves  of  sound  among  distant  summits. 
Do  not  omit  to  visit  this  weird  spot  at  the  quiet  morning  or  still 
evening  Lour,  when  all  nature  conspires  to  enhance  its  loveliness 
and  heighten  its  charms,  and  the  changes  of  color  are  no  less 
wonderful  than  the  reverberations  of  sound.  Horns,  bugles,  a 
cannon  and  other  instruments  for  waking  echoes,  pleasing  and 
terrific,  are  here  to  be  had  for  the  use  of  visitors. 

CANNON    MOUNTAIN, 

is  so  called  from  a  rock  or  combination  of  rocks  near  the  summit 
resembling  a  huge  cannon  seeming  to  command  the  passage  of 
the  Notch  from  its  high  position.  It  is  also  called  Profile 
Mountain  from  the  renowned  "Profile"  on  its  southern  wall. 
The  summit  is  about  2,000  feet  above  the  road  and  3,500  feet 
above  sea  level,  and  its  steep  sides  covered  with  a  thick  growth 
of  deciduous  trees,  stand  facing  the  slopes  of  Mount  Lafayette 
and  form  the  western  side  of  the  Notch. 

The  ascent  of  this  mountain  by  footpath  is  one  of  the 
pleasures  of  a  visit  to  Franconia,  though,  possibly  there  may 
be  more  pleasure  in  the  outlook  th^i  the  climbing. 

The  top  is  a  surface  of  bald  rock,  not  reached  without  vigorous 


NOKTHEKN  PLEASUBE  TRAVEL,  69 

exerclje,  requiring  some  two  hours  of  climbing.  But,  the  height 
gained,  you  look  upon  that  towering  cluster  of  peaks  —  the 
White  Mountains  proper  —  down  the  broad  valley  of  the 
Pemigewasset,  and  upon  all  the  varied  contrasts  of  mountain 
and  meadow,  lake  and  village,  river  and  brooklet  that  combine 
in  the  wide  landscape  seen  from  the  high  outlook  of  this  summit. 
The  ascent  of  "Bald  Mountain"  in  another  less  tiresome  trip, 
made  by  carriages  if  you  wish,  nearly  to  the  summit,  but  easily 
made  by  pedestrians.  The  view  is  wide  in  extent,  looking 
down  into  the  Notch  and  its  wondere,  northward  upon  the 
distant  broken  line  of  hills,  and  "Lafayette"  swells  high  above 
you  to  the  eastward,  while  the  sweeping  shadows  or  trailing 
vapora  roll  along  the  rugged  slopes,  and  through  the  broad 
valleys,  in  a  moving  scene  of  beauty  which  will  fade  only  with 
the  failure  of  memory. 

THE    PROFILE. 

This  bold  combination  of  rocky  masses,  forming  that  wonder- 
ful imitation  of  the  outlines  of  the  human  face,  perhaps,  more 
than  any  other  natural  feature  of  the  mountains,  excites  the 
curiosity  of  visitors.  It  is  a  bold  combination  of  rocks  forming 
the  granite  portrait  only  when  viewed  from  the  proper  location, 
change  the  point  of  view  for  any  considerable  distance  and  the 
features  become  a  shapeless  mass  of  rocks  and  crags.  The 
rocks  which  form  this  wonderful  outline  are  not  in  perpendic- 
ular line,  but,  appearing  so,  are  combined  perfectly  in  a  sharp, 
angular  and  unmistakable  imitation  of  the  human  face. 

The  proper  point  of  view  is  only  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile 
from  the  Profile  House  on  the  road  leading  down  the  Notch. 
The  granite  face  stands  out  from  the  southern  crest  of  Cannon 
Mountain,  In  majestic  repose,  fifteen  hundred  feet  above  the 
surface  of  Profile  Lake,  unmoved  by  the  mad  fury  of  tempests 
and  storais  or  the  golden  touch  of  morning  sunlight,  looking 
out  from  its  rocky  throne  insensible  to  passion,  pleasure  or 
pain,  with  the  sharp  and  stony  lines  of  the  immobile  face  set 
in  unchangable  grandeur,  solemn  and  awe-inspiring  with  its 
ages  of  exposure  to  the  storms  and  tempests,  the  ivdmiration  of 


70    '        NORTHERN  PLEASURE  TRAVEL. 

thousands  who  look  upon  it  with  bated  breath.  Other  shapes 
have  been  conjured  out  of  the  rocky  outlines  of  the  cliff,  but 
they  draw  so  strongly  on  the  imagination  beside  the  reality  of 
the  profile  that  the  attempt  excites  but  little  of  interest. 

PROFILE   LAKE. 

At  the  base  of  Cannon  Mountain,  directly  beneath  the  over* 
hanging  portrait  of  the  "Old  Man,"  is  a  beautiful  sheet  of 
water  a  quarter  of  a  mile  long  by  one-eighth  of  a  mile  wide,  sleep- 
ing in  the  green  forests  which  enclose  it  and  hang  in  shadow  in 
its  pure  depths.  The  quiet  beauty  of  the  scene  will  excite  the 
dmiration  of  the  coldest  nature.  Fanciful  names  have  been 
bestowed  upon  it  such  as  the  **01d  Man's  Mirror"  and  **01d 
Man's  Washbowl,"  but  however  named,  or  if  nameless,  it  is 
one  of  the  gems  in  the  gallery  of  mountain  pictures  seen  in 
Franconia.  It  is  the  home  of  that  lover  of  cool  mountain 
streams  and  lakes,  the  beautiful  trout,  for  which  you  must 
angle  ^v^ith  skill  for  no  careless  hand  secures  this  wary  beauty. 

THE   ASCENT  OF  MOUNT  LAFAYETTE. 

The  climbing  of  this,  the  highest  peak  of  the  Franconia 
range,  (height  5,100  feet),  is  considered  second  only  in  interest 
to  the  ascent  of  Mount  Washington.  A  half  day's  absence  from 
the  hotel  is  necessary  for  the  trip,  and  horses  with  the  neces- 
sary conveniences  for  the  ascent  are  kept  at  the  base,  with 
competent  guides  for  the  accommodation  of  tourists. 

The  path  leaves  the  highway  about  two  and  a  half  miles 
south  of  the  Profile  House.  Passing  through  the  thick  woods, 
around  the  base  and  the  lesser  gi'owth  of  the  middle  region, 
you  emerge  upon  the  bare  rock  near  the  summit,  affording  an 
unobstructed  outlook  to  the  northward  where  all  the  varied 
phases  of  the  landscape  combine  in  a  magnificent  picture. 

A  shelter  has  been  provided  upon  the  summit  for  the  protec- 
tion of  visitors, 'and  the  prospect  is  one  of  the  widest  which 
invites  the  eye  in  the  whole  mountain  region ;  looking  away 
over  the  great  intervening  reach  of  hills  and  valleys  to  distant 
Katahdin  on  the  very  eastern  outpost  of  the  army  of  hills ;  upon 


NORTHERN   PLBASUBE   TRAVEL.  71 

the  great  cluster  of  mountain  monarclis  of  which  Wasliington 
is  the  peerless  centre ;  upon  the  northern  peaks  away  beyond 
Lancaster;  across  the  Connecticut  Valley  upon  the  hills  of 
Vermont  and  the  swelling  crests  of  the  Green  Mountains,  the 
valley  of  the  Connecticut  and  the  villages  on  either  side,  the 
wild  **  Ammonusuc"  and  the  villages  of  Littleton  and  Bethle- 
hem. The  southern  view  is  down  the  fair  valley  of  the 
Pemigewasset,  while  great  Moosilauk  swells  nobly  into  view 
and  Monadnock  and  Kearsarge  bound  the  vision. 

walker's  falls. 

These  falls  are  a  half  mile  from  the  roadway  down  the 
Notch.  The  path  diverges  from  the  main  way,  some  three 
miles  below  the  Profile  House,  following  a  small  brook,  which 
here  crosses  the  road  from  the  west,  a  succession  of  picturescjue 
waterfalls  are  reached,  leaping  over  the  rocky  shelves  or  sliding 
over  the  mountain  slopes  which  form  the  bed  of  the  little 
torrent  broken  into  foam  by  impeding  masses  of  rock.  A  half 
day's  climbing  along  the  course  of  this  brook  will  afford  you  a 
succession  of  plepsant  surprises  as  you  follow  its  worn  channel 
in  the  rock,  its  gliding  course  over  the  water-worn  granite,  its 
successive  leaps  over  the  ledges,  mingling  its  waters  with  those 
of  the  fair  Pemigewasset,  which  soon  pours  its  limpid  flood 
over  the  granite  rim  of  the 

BABiN, 

some  five  miles  south  of  the  Profile  House.  This  granite 
reservoir  is  a  worn  and  curious  cavity  in  the  solid  rocks,  close 
by  the  roadway ;  evidently  made  by  the  whirling  of  rocks  in 
the  eddying  currents ;  the  waters  sweep  the  circle  several  times 
in  swift  rotation  before  making  their  exit  at  the  opposite  side. 
The  circular  walls  are  very  smooth  and  regular,  the  water 
falling  within  it  in  a  pretty  cascade  over  the  brim  and  making 
its  exit  by  a  channel  worn  into  a  fancied  resemblance  to  the 
human  leg  and  foot,  hence  the  outlet  is  sometimes  known  as 
the  "  Old  Man's  Leg." 
The  diameter  of  the  Basin  is  about  forty  feet,  the  depth  to 


73  NOETIIERK   PLEASURE   TRAVEL. 

the  lK)ttom  twenty-eigbt  feet,  with  a  usual  depth  of  twelve 
feet  of  water. 

A  small  stream,  among  the  hills  to  the  left  of  the  Basin, 
flows  over  the  granite  ledges  on  the  mountain  slope  in  pictur- 
esque and  musical  descent  forming  a  succession  of  the  most 
lovely  cascades  which  may  be  followed  up  with  pleasure  to  the 
upper  fall  where  the  stream  plunges  in  a  leap  of  some  twenty- 
five  feet. 

THE    FLUME    HOUSE. 

This  house  is  a  small  and  well  kept  hotel  very  pleasantly 
located,  facing  Mount  Liberty  in  the  vicinity  of  the  Flume,  the 
Basin,  the  Pool,  and  other  natural  objects  of  interest,  affording 
from  its  very  doors  a  view  of  the  three  great  peaks  of  this 
range,  Lafayette,  Liberty  and  Pleasant,  their  harsh  outlines 
somewhat  softened  by  the  distance,  and  of  thb  wide  valley  of 
the  Peraigewasset,  in  all  its  picturesque  and  quiet  beauty. 

This  house  is  kept  by  the  proprietors  of  the  Profile  House, 
and  visitors  will  find  it  a  pleasant  spot  in  which  to  speud  their 
season  of  leisure,  be  it  short  or  protracted. 

THE    CASCADES 

are  below  the  Flume  and  drop  in  gi'adual  descent  of  several 
hundred  feet  in  musical  silver  lines  and  gliding  sheets  of  pure 
emerald  watei-s  over  the  wide,  smooth,  granite  inclining  plane, 
fretted  more  and  more,  as  you  ascend  to  the  Flume  by  the  help' 
of  rustic  bridges,  with  many  charming  basins  and  pools  of 
transparent  water.  You  reach  these  wonders  from  the  road 
by  a  pleasant  path  among  the  great  rocks. 

THE    FLUME. 

This  central  wonder  of  this  part  of  the  valley  is  a  narrow, 
rocky  ravine  or  worn  channel,  with  perpendicular  walls  on 
either  side  of  50  to  60  feet  in  height  and  some  20  feet  apart. 
Within  these  regular  and  moss-covered  rocks,  evidently  rent 
asunder  by  some  throe  of  niture,  a  small  stieam  threads  its 
way,  in  lovely  confusion  and  perplexing  disturbance  along  the 


NORTUEUM   PLEASURE  TRAVEL,  73 

broken  bod.  The  visitor  can  ascend  through  this  shadowed 
and  wonderful  glen  which  extends  some  80()  feet  between  walls 
apparently  the  work  of  Titans  in  the  olden  time;  a  rude  path- 
way of  planks  and  ne».dful  artificial  helps  protecting  him  from 
all  disagreeable  contJict  with  the  murmuring  stream. 

At  one  point  the  grand  fissure  contracts  to  a  span  of  some 
twelve  feet  and  holds  suspended,  apparently  with  slightest 
security,  *'  The  Great  Stone  Wedge" — an  enormous  egg-shaped 
boulder  of  many  tons  weight,  an  object  of  active  speculation 
and  lively  curiosity,  causing  an  involuntary  tremor  as  you  pass 
beneath.  You  reach  these  wonders  from  the  road  by  a  fern- 
scented  path  among  the  great  rocks. 

THE    POOL. 

After  viewing  the  wonders  of  the  Flume  you  take  the  path 
leading  through  the  forest ;  leaving  the  road  near  the  hotel  and 
following  it  for  half  a  mile  you  reach  the  Pool,  a  vast  natural 
well,  regular  in  torm  and  outline,  excavated  or  worn  in  the 
solid  granite  bed.  A  small  stream  flows  over  the  brim  from 
the  north,  and  through  a  narrow  fissure  opi)osite,  the  amber 
waters  find  exit.  *  • 

The  span  of  the  rim  of  this  gloomy  natural  reservoir  ?s 
about  150  feet,  the  depth  is  about  190  feet,  with  40  feet  of 
water  in  its  sullen  depths.  The  beauty  of  the  cascades,  the 
Basin  and  the  Flume  does  not  pertain  to  the  Pool,  but  as  a 
curiosity  not  to  be  omitted  in  the  tour  of  mountain  wonders, 
it  will  amply  repay  your  visit.  A  clumsy  boat  sails  upon  the 
gloomy  and  circumscribed  circuit  of  its  waters.  There  is  a 
foot  path  from  this  point  to  the  Flume  but  it  is  somewhat 
rough  and  hardly  desirable  for  those  not  schooled  in  moun- 
tain travel. 

HARVARD    FALLS. 

Taking  directions  at  the  farm  house  some  two  miles  below 
the  Flume  Hotel,  you  shortly  reach  a  brook  leaping  down  the 
hillside,  west  of  the  roadway,  in  cascades  which  are  among  the 
very  finest  of  the  valley. 


74  NORTHERN   PLEASURE  TRAVKL. 

The  little  Htroam  at  ono  point  t.ikos  a  proat  leap  of  ciglity 
feet  ov(>r  the  ledjje  to  bound  off  in  another  of  ni'aily  e^jual  fall, 
fl:iHhiiij(  a  lino  of  Hilver  sheen  throuj^h  the  arching;  fringe 
of  shriibU'ry  that  Herves  to  hci;;liten  its  beauty.  Down  a 
rupged,  broken  descent  of  three  fourths  of  a  mile  tin;  waters 
leaj)  to  meet  the  (juiot  river  below.  Lookinj;  upwanls  along 
the  bed  of  the  stream  as  you  ascend,  the  sight  is  ono  of  rare 
beauty;  each  staj^e  of  elevation  developes  new  attractions  in 
the  fall  itself  and  the  views  of  tho  valley  below,  'ca-ight  in 
broken  vistas  between  tho  forest  trees;  while  from  the  summit 
of  tho  ri(l<fe  you  have  an  outlook  not  to  be  forjj:otten  in 
memories  of  your  journey  .among  the  hills.  Miniature  busing 
of  tho  purest  water,  here  and  there  along  its  course,  excite  the 
admiration  of  tiie  observing. 

These  latter  wonders  are  in  tho  romantic  town  of  Lincoln, 
the  first  named,  around  the  Profile  House,  are  in  Franconia. 
The  stage  route  from  tho  Profile  passes  down  th»Pemij;owasset 
Valley,  previously  descnbed  iu  the  apinoach  by  this  rou^e 
from  Plymouth. 

MOUNT  PEMIGKW ASSET, 

in  the  rear  of  the  Flume  House,  maybe  ascended  with  no  great 
difficulty  by  visitors  of  either  sex,  and  the  view,  especially  at 
sunset,  is  one  of  the  rare  delights  of  the  journey,  the  setting 
sun  bathing  the  grand  outlines  of  tho  wide  landscape  in  a 
blaze  of  glory  and  si)lcndor  and  gilding  the  gorges  and  peaks 
"with  subdued  and  waving  lights. 

Only  those  whose  limited  time  and  means  prevent  further 
progress  will  leave  the  Franconia  region  without  pushing  on 
to  the  still  more  grand  and  impressive,  though  not  more 
beautiful  or  varied  scenery  around  Mount  Washington  and 
the  White  Mountain  Notch. 

This  journey  may  be  made  by  the  stage  line  leaving  the 
Profile  House  earh  day  at  8  o'clock,  A.  m. 

Distance  to  the  Twin  Mountain  House,  17  miles,  to  the  Fab- 
y.an  Place  and  White  Mountain  House,  21  miles,  and  to  the 
Crawford  House,  near  the  Gates  of  the  Notch,  27  miles,  or, 
retracing  your  route  to  Littleton,  you  can  join  the  travel  going 


^OKTIIKU^   ri^K..S.BE   T..V.L. 


75 


»i^»*»»» . 

.  •  .  TTiuiHo  station  m 

tlie  riiil«  :»y      '  "^      '         „  at  tbiit  beautifully 

i  tilt  t.  ^(^^^KS^^^^^^^^HKX  '  .9^^^^aL 


TWIN  MOUNTAIN  HOOSB, 


and  most  complete  01 


76  NORTHERN   PLEASURE   TRAVEL. 

Ammoniisuc  River,  commanding  a  full  view  of  the  Franconia 
and  Wliite  Mountains  and  extensively  patronized  as  a  con- 
venient point  of  rest  from  the  fatigue  of  railway  travel  before 
attempting  the  rugged  ascents,  and,  also,  as  a  delightful  place 
of  rest  after  returning  from  the  somewhat  exhausting  tour  of 
the  summits. 

From  this  house  there  is  but  11  miles  of  staging  to  the 
Crawford  House,  10  miles  to  the  depot  of  the  Mount  Washing- 
ton Railway,  where  cars  are  taken  for  a  trip  over  the  famed 
rail  Une  to  the  crowning  summit,  11  miles  to  the  Waumbek 
House  in  Jefferson,  30  miles  to  the  Glen  House,  and  28  miles 
to  Gorham  by  the  Cheny  Mountain  road. 

Starting  from  this  sta1;ion,  either  for  the  mountain  railway 
or  the  Crawford  House  at  the  Notch,  a  ride  of  about  4  miles 
will  bring  you  to 

THE  WHITE    MOUNTAJLN    HOUSE. 

• 

Near  this  hotel  are  moderate  elevations,  ascended  with  no 
gi'eat  effort,  from  which  grand  views  may  be  obtained.  The 
tourist  here  finds  all  needful  attention  and  provision  for 
enjoying  the  rare  sights  of  this  wild  region.  A  good  livery 
enables  patrons  to  enjoy  the  fine  drives  at  will.  It  is  on  the 
regular  line  of  staging  for  the  mountain  railway,  Notch  and 
all  important  points.    Rounsvel  A  Co.  are  the  proprietors. 

The  short  excursions  taken  from  this  point  will  prove  to  be 
full  of  interest,  and  among  the  attractions  for  patrons  of  this 
house  and  of  the  new  Fabyan  Place  an  attractive  one  will  be 
the  wild  stream  of  the 

AMMONUSUC    RIVER, 

one  of  the  principal  branches  of  the  "  willow-fringed  Connec- 
ticut." Receiving  its  supply  from  the  dome  of  Mount  Wash- 
ington and  the  ponds  near  the  summit  of  Mount  Monroe,  it 
rushes  its  wild  course  from  the  "  Lakes  of  the  Clouds"  to  its 
outlet,  descending  more  than  five  thousand  feet  in  its  lawless 
race  of  thirty  miles  through  shadowing  forests,  in  leaps  over 


NORTHERN  PLEASURE  TRAVEL.  77 

shelving  ledges,  through  intricate  labyrinths  of  rocky  ob- 
structions and  curious  winding  channels  to  the  quiet  calm 
of  the  greater  stream  below.  Near  these  mountain  houses  are 
some  of  the  wildest  falls  of  this  mountain  stream,  the  course 
of  which  no  iourist  should  fail  to  explore  in  this  vicinity. 

MOUNT  PEABODY, 

formerly  Mount  Prospect,  easily  ascended  from  these  points 
by  carriage  road,  affords  from  the  summit  a  beautiful  view  of  the 
western  slope  of  the  mountains. 

The  "  Giant's  Grave,"  formerly  a  noted  mound  on  which  Abel 
Crawford  once  lived  a  solitary  life,  and  on  which  was  erected,  in 
1803,  the  first  rude  public  house  for  mountain  visitors,  and  which 
has  figured  in  all  the  Guide  Books  as  a  grand  point  from  which 
to  view  the  mountain  heights,  has  been  destroyed  by  the  unre- 
lenting hand  of  progress  and  levelled  in  the  grounds  of  the  new 
"Fabyan  House." 

THE    FABYAN  HOUSE 

is  about  one-half  mile  from  the  White^ountain  House  and  near 
the  junction  of  the  Mount  Washington  Turnpike  and  the  road  to 
the  Crawford  House.  This  new,  commodious  and  elegant  hotel 
has  been  lately  erected  and  will  be  opened  to  guests  tlie  present 
season,  near  the  site  of  the  old  building  destroyed  by  fire  in  1858, 
the  proprietors  not  being  deterred  from  rebuilding  by  the  tradi- 
tion of  the  red  m  m's  curse  in  the  olden  time,  or  the  fiery  ordeal 
of  the  past. 

All  that  has  been  said  of  the  views  from  the  elevations  in  this 
vicinity,  and  the  delightful  excursions  in  the  near  neighborhood, 
will  be  endorsed  by  the  patrons  of  these  hotels,  and  the  nearness 
to  the  central  summit,  and  to  the  Notch,  with  the  pleasant  sur- 
roundings, make  it  a  desirable  point  for  all  wishing  to  fully  eiyoy 
the  journey. 

Elaborate  provision  has  been  made  for  the  comfort  and  pleasure 
of  pations  by  a  liberal  outlay.  It  is  four  miles  from  Twin  Moun- 
tain House,  four  f  om  the  Notch,  seven  from  Willey  House,  thirty 
from  North  Conwaj'^,  seventeen  from  Glen  House,  and  twenty-two 
mil«s  to  the  Profile. 


78  NORTHERN    PLEASURE    TRAVEL. 

A  large  farm  is  connected,  supplying  milk  and  other  luxuries. 
Mr.  Walcott,  late  ot*  the  Crawlbrd  House,  Mr.  Lindsay,  formerly 
of  the  Eagle  Hotel,  Concord,  and  Mr.  J.  M.  French,  formerly  of 
the  Pemigewasset  House,  Plymouth,  N.  H.,  will  do  honor  to 
their  position  as  proprietors,  and  their  past  experience  is  a 
guarantee  of  future  success.  The  Fabyau  has  been  built  by 
a  company,  who  saw  the  need  of  a  better  house  in  this 
section  to  accommodate  the  greatly  increasing  travel.  Two 
hundred  thousand  dollars  have  been  invested  in  buildings  and 
farm,  and  it  is  the  design  of  the  proprietors  to  keep  it  in  the 
best  possible  manner.  The  accommodations  are  for  500  guests. 
Spacious  and  high  studded  rooms,  telegraph  olflce,  first-class 
livery,  billiard  room,  bath  room,  band  of  music,  etc.  Coaches  to 
each  train  up  the  Mount  Washington  Railroad.  The  eleva- 
tion is  2,000  feet  above  sea  level.  No  hay  fever  or  asthmatic 
difficulties.  Horace  Fabyan,  the  original  builder  of  the  first 
hotel  on  this  site,  is  one  of  the  lions  of  this  place,  and  his 
memories  of  the  olden  times  are  of  great  interest. 

THE  MOUNT  \^ASH1NGT0N  RAILWAY. 

As  previously  stated,  the  Mount  Washington  turnpike  diverges 
from  the  road,  through  the  Notch,  near  the  Fabyan  Place,  and  the 
tourist  can  choose  his  route  either  to  pass  directly  on  to  the 
Crawford  House  and  ascend  by  the  bridle-path,  or  go  by  turnpike 
and  connect  with  the  Mountain  Railway.  As  the  ascent  by  rail 
is  the  most  expeditious  way  of  reaching  the  grand  object  to 
many  —  the  climbing  of  the  highest  summit  —  you  will,  if  the 
hospitalities  of  the  noted  inns  which  we  have  described  do  not 
tempt  you  to  tarry  for  awhile  in  luxurious  comfort,  press  imme- 
diately Oil  to  the  railway  station  by  the  turnpike.  Advancing  by 
this  road  into  the  immediate  neighborhood  of  the  great  hills,  you 
pass  in  your  trip  the  upper  falls  on  the  Ammonusuc.  Here  the 
river  flows  in  a  narrow,  winding  channel  in  the  rocks,  lashed  into 
foam  by  its  wild  rush  between  waUs  of  granite  and  among  im- 
peding boulders.  These  lalls  extend  for  the  distance  of  some  three 
hundred  feet,  and  have  a  descent  of  about  fifty  feet.  The  tourist 
finds  in  the  rugged  beauty  of  the  massive  walls,  the  cui'ioos  hoi- 


NORTHERN    PLEASURE   TRAVEL.  7f 

• 

lowing  and  shaping  of  the  rocks  by  the  continual  action  of  the 
musical  waters,  in  the  surrounding  scenery  and  peculiar  charm 
of  the  rapids,  a  feature  not  to  be  omitted  in  the  chain  of  moun- 
tain pictures,  which  are  to  live  in  memory  when  this  land  of  the 
wild  and  picturesque  is  left  again  to  the  calm  of  winter. 

Winding  along  the  base  of  Mount  Washington  and  up  to  the 
station  of  the  railway,  you  are  made  sensible  of  your  approach  to 
the  great  central  attraction  of  the  mountains.  The  burly  forms  of 
the  surrounding  peaks  swell  up  on  every  hand,  seeming  at  times 
to  stand  as  an  impenetrable  barrier  to  your  further  progress,  but, 
continuing  on,  Ammonusuc  Station,  at  Marshlleld,  the  lower 
terminus  of  the  Mountain  Railway,  2,088  feet  above  sea  level,  la 
reached.  Here  are  commodious  railroad  buildings,  and  a  hotel 
affording  comfortable  entertainment  for  fifty  guests. 

This  renowned  mountain  railway  was  chartered  by  the  State 
Legislature  (as  one  of  the  members  remarked,)  on  the  same 
principle  that  one  might  have  been  chartered  to  the  moon ;  the 
one  being,  to  the  ordinary  mind,  as  practical  as  the  other;  but 
the  energy  and  practical  ingenuity,  and  persistence  under  dis- 
couragem(?nt  and  ridicule  of  Sylvester  Marsh,  Esq.,  the  projector 
and  inventor,  with  the  efficient  aid  of  J.  E.  Lyon,  Esq.,  President 
of  the  Boston,  Concord  &  Montreal  Radroad,  and  Waller  Aiken, 
Esq.,  of  Franklin,  who  built  the  engines  and  cars,  and  the  finan- 
cial aid  of  rail\yays  and  individuals,  accomplished  the  feat  and 
established  the  practical  working  of  the  enterprise,  which  abol- 
ishes in  great  measure  the  hardships  of  mountain  climbing. 

The  length  of  the  railway  is  about  three  miles.  The  total  rise 
from  the  lower  station  to  Mount  Washington  House,  on  the  sum- 
mit, is  3,625  feet ;  the  steepest  grade  is  1,980  feet  to  the  mile, 
about  one  foot  in  three,  but  averaging  through  the  entire  course 
one  foot  in  four. 

The  road  bed  is  constructed  with  special  reference  to  safety 
and  durability,  of  heavy  timber,  clamped  to  the  rocks  of  the 
mountain  slope,  and  braced  and  secured  in  the  strongest  manner. 
The  track  is  of  the  usual  guage,  with  side  rails  of  the  usual  rail- 
way pattern,  and  a  central  safety  rail,  constructed  of  two  paral- 
lel bars  of  angle  iron,  with  cross  bolts  of  1^  inch  round  iron,  at 
intervals  of  about  four  inches ;  between  these  bolts  play  the  cogs 


80 


NORTHERN  PLEASURE  TRAVEL. 


of  a  central  wheel  of  the  locomotive.  In  addition  to  ordinary 
brakes  the  atmospheric  brakes,  instantaneous  in  their  action,  are 
in  use,  atid,  loUowing  and  dropping  into  the  notch-rim  of  the 
driving-wheel,  is  a  lirm  iron  support  which  would  efl'ectuuUy 
prevent  the  descent  of  the  train  'n  case  of  injury  to  the  ma- 
chinery. Hollers  running  under  the  angle  iron  prevent  jumping 
or  slipping  from  the  track.  With  these  arrangements  for  safety, 
the  passenger  need  feel  no  alarm  or  apprehension  of  danger,  the 
trip  being  as  safe  as  ordinary  rail  transit,  no  accident  having  oc- 
curred in  the  four  years  the  road  has  been  in  operation,  nor 
damage  of  a  penny  to  life,  limb  or  material  during  the  time  of 
construction  or  since  its  operation  as  a  line  of  travel. 

The  locomotive  is  of  novel  construction,  being  made  with  es- 
pecial reference  to  the  steep  inclination  of  the  road,  and,  when 
btanding  upon  the  level  track,  appears  sadly  out  of  balance. 
Safety  and  power  are  attained  in  the  construction  at  the  expense 
of  speed,  which  is  not  sought.  The  locomotive  is  always  below 
the  train,  pushing  the  coaches  upwaid  as  you  ascend  and  pro- 
ceeding them  in  the  return  down  the  slope.  The  cars  have  seats 
hung  at  an  angle,  facing  toward  the  base. 


NORTHERN   PLEASURE   TRAVEL.  81 

The  superintendent  is  Capt  J.  W.  Dodge,  whose  interest  in 
this  novel  line  of  travel  is  equalled  only  by  his  wil!in;;ness  to 
satisfy  the  many  inquiries  of  the  thousands  who  for  the  llrst  time 
ascend  the  mountain  side  by  the  "  Sensation  Route." 

Single  fares  either  way  are  $3,  or  for  both  ways  $5.  Trunks 
and  heavy  baggage  involve  an  extra  charge  according  to  space 
occupied;  but  ordinary  hand  baggage  is  carried  free  of  expense. 
Th**  baggage  of  parties  returning  from  this  point  will  be  checked 
through  to  their  destination,  if  upon  the  routes  previously 
described. 

The  ascent  is  made  in  an  hour  and  a  quarter,  including  the 
stoppages  for  water,  and  somewhat  less  in  the  downward  trip 
which  is  made  by  force  of  giavity  alone,  regulated  by  the  brakes. 
The  telegraph  wires  extend  to  the  summit. 

No  three  miles  of  railway  in  the  world  afford  sucli  a  successioa 
of  wild  and  startling  views  as  the  passenger  has  on  his  mountaia 
ride  on  this  iron  line  up  the  steep  inclination  of  Mount  Washing- 
ton. Glimpses  of  the  valley  below,  through  which  winds  the 
turnpike,  the  wide  broken  view  of  valley  and  mountain,  the 
Great  Gulf  to  the  left,  into  the  depths  of  which  you  look  with 
shrinking  and  trepidation,  and,  uearing  the  summit,  an  eastward, 
view  down  into  the  Glen,  with  the  white  buildings  of  the  Glen 
House,  a  speck  in  the  valley  below. 

The  monument  of  stones  near  the  summit  marks  the  spot  where, 
in  1855,  Lizzie  Bourne,  of  Maine,  died  from  exposure,  further 
described  in  the  ascent  Irom  the  Glen  House  by  carriage  road. 
The  water  stations  on  the  way  are  called  by  appropriate  names, 
such  as  Gulf  Station,  Waumbek  Station,  etc. 

The  passenger  who  in  the  morning  left  the  crowded  streets  and 
hot  pavements  of  Boston  for  **  the  wealth  of  the  vales,  the  pomp 
of  mountains,"  and  who  all  day  long  has  been  whirled  along  the 
valleys  of  New  England's  fairest  rivers,  through  a  panorama  of 
green  fields  and  by  sparkling  lakes,  with  glimpses  of  distant  hills 
and  mountains,  may  end  the  day  in  the  delightful  stage  ride  and 
sensational  climbing  by  rail,  leaving  behind  the  vegetation  of  the 
plains  and  the  luxuriant  forests  around  the  mountain's  base,  pass 
the  belt  where  thrive  only  the  hardier  shrubs,  and  the  fir  tree  is 
dwarfed  to  the  span  of  a  lady's  hand,  into  the  region  of  Alpine 
6 


82  NORTHERN   PLEASURE   TRAVEL. 

I)lant3  and  tlic  lichens  and  mosses  peculiar  to  the  icy  regions 
around  the  pole,  till  on  the  bare  rocks  of  the  nearly  level  plateau, 
on  this  highest  northern  outlook  east  of  the  Rocky  Mountuius, 

TOE  MOUNT  WASHINGTON  HOUSE, 

the  new  hotel  at  the  summit  just  opened  for  visitors,  and  serving 
the  double  purpose  of  depot  building  and  hotel,  receives  the  tired 
traveler  within  its  hospitable  doors  for  a  nhjht  among  the  clouds, 
Thi:s  new  house  at  the  summit,  erected  in  1872,  and  furnished  and 
opened  for  visitors  the  present  season,  has  accommodations  for 
one  hundred  and  fifty  guests.  It  is  conveniently  furnished, 
and  telegraphic  and  other  facilities  are  afforded  the  guests  who 
spend  the  night  beneath  its  hospitable  roof.  All  the  substan- 
tials  and  luxuries  furnished  at  the  mountain  houses  are  provided 
for  the  tables,  and  the  furnishing  and  management  is  such  as  to 
please  all  who  may  be  so  fortunate  as  to  enjoy  them.  Captain 
Dodge,  the  manager  of  the  Mount  Washington  Railway,  is  the 
manager  of  this  new  hotel,  a  sure  guarantee  of  attention  to  the 
travelers'  wants.  All  the  necessary  provisions  for  comfort  and 
ease  are  provided,  and,  in  case  the  house  should  be  overcrowded, 
the  older  and  well  known  Tip-Top  &nd  Summit  houses  will  receive 
you  within  their  more  primitive  doors.  From  this  high  altitude 
of  a  mile  and  a  quarter  above  sea  level,  we  can  now  look  down 
along  the  grand  incline,  up  which  in  vast  billows  of  land  the 
hills  have  advanced  from  the  level  sea  beach  to  this  peerless 
height,  and  around  upon  mountains  "  named,  nameless  and  num 
berless,"  over  the  vast  extent  of  view  which  the  mountain,  per- 
sonified by  Emerson,  thus  tersely  describes: 

"  Every  mom  I  lift  ray  Iiead, 
Gaze  o'er  New  England  underspread, 
South  from  St.  Lawrence  to  the  sound, 
From  Catskill  east  to  the  sea  bound." 

VIEW  FROM  MOUNT  WASHINGTON  SUMMIT. 

The  magnitude  of  the  wide  stretch  of  country  seen  from  this 
high  altitude,  when  first  swept  by  the  eye,  is  overpowering  and 
confusing  from  its  extent  and  combinations.    You  imagine  that 


NORTHERN   PLEASURE   TRAVEL. 

the  crust  of  earth  has  been  tossed  on  a  boiling  caldron,  and,  at 
tlie  touch  of  some  mighty  power,  been  congealed  at  the  moment 
of  wildest  ebullition — a  sea  of  sweeping  ranges  and  isolated 
peaks,  broad  valleys  and  forests,  sparkling  lakes  and  sinuous 
streams.  The  wild  and  rocky,  but  somewhat  regular  plateau  of 
the  summit,  appears  as  an  island  surrounded  by  a  petrilied  sea  of 
hills.  The  jagged  and  bare  peaks  of  the  adjacent  moiuitains, 
separated  by  ravines  and  gulfs  of  vast  depth  and  outline,  are  tho 
most  impressive  feature  of  the  wide  panorama. 

If  }ou  are  fortunate  to  gain  an  unobstructed  view  through  the 
wide  circle,  you  v\  ill  look  northward  over  the  billowy  laud  to 
the  plains  of  Canada;  to  the  northeast  on  tlie  far  di?*tant  forests  of 
Maine,  with  the  dim  outline  of  Katahdin  just  visible  in  the 
distance,  while  near  at  hand  the  great  attendant  mountains  of 
this  group — Jetferson,  Adams  and  Madison — tower  in  the  fore- 
ground, a  grand  cluster  of  dark  and  rugged  summits.  Mount 
Jackson  is  on  the  southeast,  close  at  hand,  with  the  symmetrical, 
lone  summit  of  Pequaket  (Klarsai'ge  at  North  Conway)  in  the 
distance,  and  S«bago  Lake  and  the  suiTounding  country  in 
Maine,  and,  sometimes,  the  faint  blue  line  of  the  ocean, 
scarcely  to  be  separated  from  the  sky  in  the  far  distance.  South- 
ward is  the  valley  of  the  Saco  with  its  villages,  the  sharp  pyra- 
mids of  Chucorua  and  the  gleam  of  fair  Winnipesaukee.  South- 
westerly the  remaining  mountains  of  this  range,  Mount  Monroe 
with  its  rocky  peak  and  the  Twin  ponds,  Mount  Pleasant  with 
its  regular  outline.  Mount  Fianklin  with  a  more  level  surface, 
Mount  Willey  and  the  further  range  of  wooded  hills.  West- 
ward, the  valley  of  the  Ammonusuc,  the  village  of  Bethlehem, 
the  naked  summit  of  Mount  Lafayette  in  Franconia,  the  broken 
silver  line  of  rivers,  and  in  the  dim  distance  the  Green  Moun- . 
tains,  with  Mount  Manstield  and  Camel's  Hump.  Northwest, 
the  picturesque  town  of  Jefterson,  Pondicherry  in  the  embrace 
of  forests,  and,  further  distant,  the  village  of  Lancaster. 

Viewed  in  the  light  of  the  setting  sun,  or  when  morning  lights 
burn  off  the  vapors  from  the  face  of  the  wide  landscape,  the  scene 
is  one  which  pen  cannot  describe  or  pencil  portray,  but  which 
memory  will  not  fail  to  cherish  as  the  choicest  revelation  of  nature 
to  be  seen  in  a  lifetime.    Fortune  does  not  always  favor  the 


84  NORTHERN  PLEASURE  TRAVEL. 

tourist,  and  he  may  sometimes  stand  upon  this  lofty  liel;j;ht,  veiled 
in  impcn'-trahle  mist,  and  the  gloom  of  clouds,  hiding  tlie  grand 
outlines  which  lie  knows  lie  beneath  and  around  him. 

If  the  rare  privilege  is  given  you  to  look  through  the  clear  and 
unobstructed  light  of  early  summer,  or  later  autumn,  on  this 
blending  scene  of  complex  and  overpowering  grandeur  and 
beauty,  over  which  tlie  contrasts  of  light  and  shade  play  upon  a 
scale  wider  than  human  eye  is  often  privileged  to  view;  the 
grand  sweep  of  masses  of  clouds  and  the  attendant  trailing 
shadov/8  beneath;  the  scrolls  of  mist  that  ride  upon  the  winds 
and  the  shadows  of  great  summits  throwing  their  sombre  veil  over 
whole  townships  as  the  sun  declines,  all  inspire  you  with  the  feel- 
ing that  you  have  been  admitted  in  near  and  familiar  contact 
with  scenes  in  nt.-ure  heretofore  unknown  to  you,  and  perhaps, 
to  crown  all,  while  you  are  dreaming,  a  roaring  storm  gathers  on 
the  unsheltered  cone  and  you  shrink  to  nothingness  in  the  midst 
of  its  resistless  fury.  The  storm,  the  lightning,  and  the  clouds  are 
not  from  above,  but  you  are  in  the  midst  of  or  above  them. 

WINTER  ABOVE  THE  CLOUDS. 

Since  the  completion  of  the  new  ways,of  access  to  the  summit, 
observers  from  the  Meteorological  corps  of  the  regular  army  have 
passed  several  winters  i  ^  comparatives  comfort  at  this  high 
altitude,  swept  sometimes  by  the  terrific  force  of  winter  winds, 
unobstructed  in  their  wild  course  by  higher  or  equal  elevations. 
Valuable  statistics  have  been  gained  regarding  the  force  of  the 
winds,  the  temperature  and  peculiar  phenomena  of  this  highest 
northern  elevation.  The  novel  experiences  of  these  hardy  moun- 
taineers in  their  alpine  retreat  and  perfect  solitude  has  been  pub- 
lished in  book  form  and  is  of  the  greatest  interest.  Frequent 
communication  is  maintained  with  the  world  below,  and  the  pecu- 
liar beauty  and  novelty  of  the  scenes  witnessed  in  mid-winter  are 
such  as  men  are  seldom  privileged  to  see ;  oceans  of  clouds  pierced 
by  snow-capped  peaks,  all  below  being  hidden  in  impenetrable 
frost-clouds ;  the  swift;  growth  of  clouds  and  storms  and  almost 
irresistable  force  of  the  winds,  with  the  lonely  lack  of  all  animate 
life,  make  it  a  peculiar  experience  for  those  who  so  courageously 
brave  the  exposure.  , 


NORTHERN    PLEASURE   TRAVEL.  83 

THE  DESCENT. 

Nothing  butwj.nt  of  time  will  prevent  the  traveler  who  has 
hurried  through  his  journey  to  this  high  summit  from  returning 
either  hy  railway  and  stage,  or  by  the  bridle-path  to  the  Crawford 
House,  at  the  Notch,  and  an  inspection  of  the  wonders  of  that 
far-fumed  mountain  pass.  You  can  also  descend  on  the  east  sUle 
by  carriage  road  to  the  Glen  House.  This  was  the  favorite  way 
of  ascending  previous  to  opening  the  railway,  and  is  still  and 
must  remain  the  choice  of  many.     (See  description  hereafter.) 


THE  CRAWFORD  HOUSE 

is  situated  at  the  gate  of  the  White  Mountain  or  Crawford  Notch. 
It  is  one  of  the  finest  in  its  plan  of  the  mountain  houses,  the 
piazzas,  of  ample  width,  extending  the  entire  length  of  the  build- 
ing. It  ?tands  upon  a  small  plain  2,000  feet  above  sea  level.  A 
small  lake  near  by  is  the  source  of  the  Saco,  and  the  Ammonusuc 
is  also  supplied  from  springs  on  the  same  plain.  Near  by,  towards 
the  entrance  to  the  Notch,  are  the  ruins  of  the  old  Notch  House, 
built  by  the  Crawfords,  and  patronized  by  the  pioneers  in  moua- 
tain  travel.  A.  T.  &  O.  F.  Barron  are  the  proprietors. 
In  the  near  vicinity  of  the  Crawford  House  are 

GIBBS'    FALLS, 

so  named  for  a  former  landlord  of  the  hotel.  They  are  reached 
by  a  walk  of  a  ]  ilf  hour  from  the  hotel.  Here  the  brook  makes 
a  leap  of  nearly  forty  feet,  in  two  sheets  of  white  foam,  separated 
by  a  small  islet,  on  which  a  lone  pine  tree  stands  guard.  A  suc- 
cession of  lesser  falls  on  the  same  stream  will  tempt  you  to 
further  exploration. 


86  NORTHERN   PLEASURE   TRAVEI^ 

VKECII Eli's   FALLH    CASCADE, 

only  about  a  half  mile  from  the  hotel,  Is  upon  the  little  moun- 
tain hrook  whlcli  Hows  down  the  slope  to  the  rij;ht  ol'  the  road, 
reached  by  a  shaded  pathway.  In  one  of  the  pools  of  this  .stream 
the  eminent  divine  whose  name  they  bear  was  "  Innnersed,"  not 
intentionally,  but,  like  otlnT  men,  he  *'  fell."  He  describes  the 
brook  aj«,  at  one  point,  "whirlin;iC  Itself  into  a  plexus  of  cords," 
or  a  "  pulsating  braid  of  water."  For  more  than  a  fourth  of  a 
mile  the  stream  sweeps  down  over  rocks  hun;j;  with  moi^s,  and 
through  channels  worn  in  beautiful  contour,  arched  w  ith  green 
leaves  and  luxuriant  trees. 

THE  WHITE  MOUNTAIN  OR  "CRAWFOKD"  NOTCH. 

Next  to  the  ascent  of  Mount  Washington,  and  previous  to  that 
if  you  do  not  return,  you  will  wish  to  explore  the  attractions  of 
this  wid(dy-famed  pass  in  the  mountains.  The  peculiar  grandeur 
of  this  vast  and  awful  gorge  cannot  be  described  in  words,  and 
llie  artist  transmits  the  grand  outlines  but  imperfectly.  On 
either  hand  the  forbidding  line  of  precipices  tower  above  you  in 
imposing  grandeur,  and  you  halt  and  turn  to  admire  its  savage 
ruggedness.  It  extends  for  a  distance  of  about  three  miles,  run- 
ning from  northwest  to  southeast. 

The  "Gate  of  the  Notch"  is  in  the  near  vicinity  of  the  Crawford 
House,  and  is  a  chasm  between  perpendicular  rocks,  distant 
from  each  other  but  22  feet;  the  diminutive  stream  flowing  at 
one  side  is  the  commencement  of  the  Saco  River,  which  flows 
with  ranid  course  and  increasing  volume  through  tlie  fairest  of 
valleys  to  the  sea. 

Riding  down  the  Notch  from  the  Crawford  House  through  the 
"gates,"  you  pass  within  the  wild  gorge,  and,  if  you  have  a 
guide  or  companion  versed  in  the  localite^  of  the  great  ravine, 
your  eye  and  mind  will  be  intent  upon  a  series  of  views  and 
objects,  of  which  it  were  foolish  to  attempt  minute  description 
other  than  by  name  and  general  outline. 

*'  Piili)it  Rock"  is  a  great  overhanging  column  of  stone,  the  form 
of  which  is  best  indicated  by  its  name,  a  bold  buttress  or  column 
more  after  the  fashion  of  "ye  ancient"  than  the  modern  pulpit 


NOBTHKRN    PLEASURE   TRAVEL. 


87 


^     . 


WUITE  MOUNTAIN  NOTCH. 


The  "  Infant"  and  the  "  Youn":  Man"  will  be  pointed  out  and  the 
"  Old  Maid" — a  most  venerable  siuiciinen  of  the  anxious  and  aim- 
less class,  with  features  ravaj;ed  by  time,  long  since  become  indif- 
ferent to  either  the  admiration  or  the  contempt  of  men.  The 
"  Elephant's  Head"  is  elephantine  at  least  in  its  proportions,  and, 
high  up  on  the  rocks  of  Mount  Willard  is  the  dark  and  inaccessible 
entrance  to  the  "  Devils  Den,"  which  is  some  two  miles  from  the 
hotel,  and  is  simply  a  dark  cave  in  the  rocks  of  limited  extent 
and  void  of  peculiar  interest  or  charm,  tliough  once  reputed  to  I  e 
a  sort  of  aerial  charnel  house  and  haunt  of  wild  beasts ;  it  was 
shorn  of  its  terrors  by  investigation. 

At  a  bend  in  the  road,  nearly  a  mile  from  the  gateway,  is  one 
of  the  most  impressive  scenes  in  the  Notch,  where  the  great  out- 
lines of  Mounts  Webster,  Willey  and  Willard  crowd  in  concen- 
trated sweeping  lines  upon  the  narrow  way.  Further  on  at  the 
Willey  House  the  pass  is  more  open  and  the  long  range  of  walls 


88  NORTHERN    PLEASURE   TRAVEL. 

• 

on  either  hand  have  more  of  regularity,  and  the  gorge  is  more 
open.  The  widely  famed  Willey  House  was  built  in  1793,  and  is 
distant  from  the  Crawford  House  about  three  miles.  In  1825 
Samuel  Willey,  jr.,  a  kind  hearted  and  hospitable  man  tenanted 
the  house  with  his  family.  The  house  is  located  under  the  steep 
acclivity  of  Mount  Willey,  w^uch  rises  some  2,000  feet  behind  the 
house,  and  opposite  is  the  forbidding  front  of  Mount  Webster,  the 
little  Saco  river  flowing  near  by. 

On  the  night  of  Monday,  the  28th  of  August,  1826,  occurred  that 
terrible  storm  which  fed  the  mountain  branches  of  the  Saco  and 
the  Ammonusuc,  and  changed  the  limpid  current  from  a  gentle 
running  stream  to  a  mad  rush  of  whirling  waters,  breaking  old 
bounds  and  roaring  in  lawless  torrents,  freighted  with  the 
loosened  soil  and  trees  swept  from  the  steep  sides  of  the  over- 
hanging hills ;  during  this  terrible  night  the  tragic  disaster  of  the 
Willey  House  occurred;  the  house  itself  »"eceived  no  injury,  but 
the  frightened  inmates  who  sought  safety  by  flight  from  the  mad 
fury  of  the  crashing  slides,  were  found  buried  in  the  debris  below. 
The  faithful  house  dog  escaping  unhurt,  appeared  at  Conway, 
and,  by  all  the  resources  of  brute  intellect,  sought  to  give  tidings 
of  the  calamity,  failing  in  which  he  disappeared  at  the  top  of  his 
speed,  and  afterwards,  though  occasionally  seen,  was  missing. 
The  father,  mother,  five  children,  and  two  hired  men  perished; 
the  bodies  of  two  sons  and  a  daughter  were  never  found. 

The  burial  service  of  these  victims  of  tragic  death,  as  per- 
formed on  the  spot,  are  described  as  singularly  impressive.  The 
words  I  i  be  solemn  prayer  of  the  good  elder,  offered  with  dis- 
tinct a\.l  measured  utterance,  came  back  in  slow  and  solemn 
echoes  from  the  seamed  walls  of  the  circling  mountains. 

The  slopes  of  Mount  Willey  are  quite  bar'^,  having  only  enough 
of  soil  to  furnish  root-hold  for  the  scanty  crop  of  dwarfed  birches 
that  somewhat  relieve  the  desolation  ol  the  scarred  walls. 

DRIVE  TO  THE  SUMMIT  OF    MOUNT  WILLAKD. 

This  safe  and  easy  shaded  ascent  of  about  two  miles  may  be 
made  in  carriages  from  the  hotel,  or  without  diflBculty  by  pedes- 
trians. Looking  from  the  level,  flower-carpeted  shelf  under  the 
sharp  summit  of  the  mounttan,  you  take  in  with  one  sweeping 


NOKTHEKN    PLEASURE    TRAVEL.  ,  89 

glance  the  grand  outlines  of  the  gorge,  the  winding  road  through 
the  whole  extent,  the  traces  of  slides  upon  the  bold  sides  of  the 
mountains,  and  the  sparkling  line  of  the  mountain  brooks  leaping 
in  gleaming  and  sinuous  falls  down  the  rugged  slopes ;  perhaps, 
over  all,  a  floating  roof  ot  clouds  changing  and  unfolding  in  the 
soft  sunlight.  The  stillness  of  the  great  height  and  the  grand 
sublimity  of  the  landscape  can  but  impress  the  beholder  with 
admiration  and  awe. 

THE    FLUME, 

a  brook  pouring  through  the  worn  chasm  or  rent  in  the  solid 
rock,  on  the  side  of  Mount  Webster,  is  noted  as  one  of  the 
beauties  of  tlio  Notch,  leaping  through  the  curious  channel  of 
stone  in  noisy  and  picturesque  distuibauce  on  its  way  to  join  the 
waters  of  the  fiiir  Saco. 

THE    SILVER  CASCADE, 

above  the  Flume,  and  a  sort  of  continuation  of  the  same,  slides 
down  the  mountain  side  for  a  mile,  in  windings,  leapings  and 
turnings  innumerable ;  now  in  a  broad  sheet  of  whitened  foam, 
again  divided  in  several  streams,  narrowing  to  a  swift  current 
through  the  worn  and  narrow  channel.  The  view  from  the  rude 
bridge,  or  from  a  point  at  the  base  of  the  fall,  is  of  unrivalled 
interest  and  beauty,  and  from  all  points  this  mountain  cascade  is 
one  of  the  attractions  by  no  means  to  be  _>assed  by.  You  will 
linger  by  its  whitened  torrent  with  increasing  admiration. 
Parties  from  the  Crawford  House  can  visit  these  falls  at  a  very 
trivial  expense. 

FALLS  ON  AVALANCHE  BROOK. 

These  ftills  are  about  six  miles  from  the  Crawford  House,  on 
Mount  Willey,  upon  a  stream  which  flows  down  the  slope  ot  the 
mountain,  near  the  track  of  the  memorable  land  slide,  and  joins 
the  Saco  below  the  Willey  House.  Following  this  brook,  now 
known  as  Ripley's  or  Avalanche  brook,  nearly  two  miles  up  the 
mountain,  a  grand  cascade  bursts  upon  the  view  falling  between 
granite  walls  of  picturesque  forms  and  wonderful  shaping,  hung 


90  NORTHERN   PLEABCRE   TRAVEL. 

with  lichens  and  mosses,  through  a  wild  ravine  overhung  and  en- 
closed by  the  spruce  forests. 

The  commencement  of  these  falls  is  a  succession  of  rocky  steps 
some  fifty  feet  wide,  continuing  in  a  widening  incline,  broken 
into  sweeping  curves,  through  the  solid  rock  into  the  reservoir  at 
the  foot.  These  falls  are  now  christened  the  *'  Sylvan  Glade 
Cataract."  A  mile  further  up  the  brook  is  a  lesser  series  of  falls 
called  the  "  Sparkling  Cascade,"  worthy  of  a  visit. 

UP  MOUNT  WASHINGTON  BY  BRIDLEPATH. 

Notwithstanding  the  tempting  ease  of  railway  and  carriage  road 
ascents,  some  muscular  tourists  prefer  the  climbing  by  bridlepath, 
as  giving  great  variety  of  view  and  a  journey  combining  variety 
of  prospect  and  experience.  The  route  diverges  into  the  forest 
on  the  slope  of  Mount  Clinton,  shortly  after  leaving  the  hotel,  and 
in  the  rugged  passage  of  eight  and  a  half  miles,  passes  over  some 
portion  of  Mounts  Clinton,  Pleasant,  Franklin  and  Munroe, 
giving  the  peculiar  views  obtained  from  a  succession  of  bold  out- 
looks. You  ascend  at  times  a  worn  channel  of  the  mountain 
slope,  pass  through  the  heavy  forests,  dwarfed  and  thinned  to  the 
hardier  evergreens  as  you  advance,  and  passing  the  dead-wood 
region,  where  the  shrubs  and  dwarfed  trees  stand  spectral  and 
white  on  the  bleak  slopes,  you  come  out  on  bare  granite  ledges 
and  wide  views  of  deep  valleys  below.  Mount  Pleasant  is  so 
named  fnim  the  pleasing  outline  of  its  mass,  as  viewed  from  a 
distance,  but  the  ride  along  its  southern  slope  is  a  rugged  one,  as 
is  also  the  winding  way  along  the  rocky  slopes  of  Mount  Frank- 
lin, but  from  a  point  in  the  way  nearest  to  the  latter  summit  a 
glorious  view  to  the  southward  is  obtained. 

You  overlook  the  great  abyss  of  "Oake's  Gulf"  as  you  follow 
along  the  side  of  Mount  Monroe,  and  here  catch  a  view  of  the 
towering  pyramid  of  Mount  Washington,  rising  a  thousand  feet 
above  the  high  altitude  from  which  you  look.  Winding  down 
upon  the  great  elevated  plain,  among  the  huge  bouldeis,  to  the 
"Lake  of  the  Woods,"  Adhere  the  wild  Ammonusuc  has  its 
source,  the  last  stage  of  the  ride  along  the  brown  and  apparently 
inaccessible  slopes  of  Mount  Washington,  up  into  the  region  of 
bare  and  forbidding  rock,  is  along  a  p;ith  among  great  boulders, 


NOKTHERN    PLEASURE   TRAVEL.  W 

(displaced  to  admit  of  passage),  and  quite  likely  the  few  rods  of  foot 
travel  from  the  rendezvous  to  the  summit  may  not  be  made  on 
the  "double  quick,"  but  rather  with  evidences  of  demoralization; 
but  the  grand  point  is  gained  by  this  line  of  bold  ascents  and 
noble  outlooks,  and  from  this  elevated  acre  you  may  take  the 
wide  sweep  of  view  previously  described. 

The  same  choice  of  routes  for  descending,  before  described,  is 
now  open  to  you,  either  by  railway,  carriage  road  to  Glen  House 
on  the  east  side,  or  if  you  are  equal  to  the  effort,  by  retracing 
your  steps  with  fresh  horse  over  the  rugged  bridlepath. 

THROUGH  THE  NOTCH  TO  CONWAY  OR  THE  GLEN. 

Journeying  down  the  Notch  to  North  Conway,  or  to  the  Glen 
House,  you  pass  out  by  a  considerable  ascent  upon  the  road,  onco 
proach  for  pleasure  seekers.  Looking  back,  as  you  emerge  into  the 
the  great  highway  of  travel,  now  principally  an  avenue  of  ap- 
open  country,  you  get  a  grand  view  of  Mount  »Vebster  and 
Mount  Willey,  with  the  rounded  outline  of  Mount  Willard 
between  and  further  on.  The  road  now  leads  for  a  time  through 
a  forest  of  birches,  and  to  the  left,  in  their  order,  you  see  the 
mountains  known  as  Giant's  Stairs,  (3,500  feet),  Mouut  Resolu- 
tion, (3,400  feet),  and  Mount  Crawford,  (3,200  feet). 

The  old  Mount  Crawford  House  is  next  reached,  once  an  im- 
portant rendezvous  for  tourists,  hunters  aud  anglers,  now  kept  as 
a  boarding  house.  Mount  Washington  is  sometimes  ascended 
from  this  point  by  a  route  not  of  late  much  patronized,  but  offer- 
ing great  attractions  to  the  genuine  lover  of  nature.  This  spot  is 
of  interest  as  being  the  former  residence  of  old  Abel  Crawford, 
and  is  six  miles  distant  from  the  Willey  House.  The  amount  of 
teaming  past  this  place  through  the  Notch  in  the  early  days, 
before  the  day  of  railroads,  was  immense ;  an  old  resident  tells  of 
counting  for  a  single  day  the  teams  passing  from  above  and 
below  at  this  point  reaching  the  number  of  three  hundred,  only 
two  or  three  of  which  were  single  teams. 

About  a  half  mile  further  on  is  Naxcy's  Brook,  from  its 
associations  a  place  of  sad  interest.  It  was  here  in  1778  that  an 
unfortunate  girl,  deserted  by  her  lover,  perished  from  exposure, 
in  the  vain  attempt  to  overtake  the  recreant  deserter  by  a  foot 


92  NORTHERN  PLEASURE  TRAVEL. 

journey  throiij;!^this,  then,  almost  impassahle  route.  A  stone, 
known  as  "Nancy's  Rock"  is  pointtid  out  as  a  mark  of  the 
tragedy.  Further  on  is  a  great  bend  in  the  road  and  river  around 
Hart's  Ledge,  and  you  shortly  reach 

sawyeb's  rock. 

Here  is  the  present  terminus  of  the  Portland  and  Ogdensburg 
Railroad,  opened  to  this  point  for  travel  the  present  season,  and 
to  be  extended  on  through  the  Notch  in  the  fiiture.  One  Nash 
was  the  discoverer  of  the  pass  known  as  the  Notch,  associated 
with  Sawyer  in  the  first  transportation  of  a  horse  through  the  rough 
gorge,  then  a  work  of  diiUculty.  When  the  last  obstruction  was 
overcome,  their  emptied  rum  bottle  was  dashed  against  this  high 
rock,  and  Sawyer's  Rock  has  been  the  name  it  has  since  borne. 
Sawyer's  River  is  the  ^mall  stream  here  crossed.  The  building 
of  the  road  through  to  the  Notch  was  an  undertaking  of  great 
importance  in  the  days  when  it  was  attempted,  with  the  limited 
means  for  carrying  out  the  project 

BARTLETT 

is  a  scattered  settlement,  lying  along  the  valley  of  the  Saco,  and 
the  Bartlett  House  is  the  half  way  or  halting  station  on  the  route 
from  the  Crawford  to  the  Glen  House,  distant  15  miles  irom  the 
former,  and  20  miles  from  the  latter. 

TO  THE  GLEN  HOUSE, 

from  Bartlett,  the  passenger  from  the  Crawford  House,  by 
stage,  or  by  rail  over  the  Portland  and  Ogdensburg  Railroad 
from  the  east,  passes  northward  along  the  valley  of  the  Ellis 
River  through  Pinltham  Notch.  A  short  drive  from  Bartlett, 
crossing  the  bridge  over  the  Ellis  River,  brings  you  to 

GOODRICH  FALLS, 

worthy  of  your  notice  for  their  picturesque  appearance. 

THE  TOWN  OF  JACKSON 

is  now  becoming  popular  as  a  place  of  summer  resort.  It  is  rich 
m  mineral  resources  and  romantic  scenery.    Iron  Mountain  is 


NORTHERN   PLEASURE   TRAVEL.  93 

• 

nearly  3,000  feet  high,  and  with  Thom  Mountain  is  rich  in  veins 
of  iron  ore.  Tin  (the  first  found  in  the  United  States,)  and  cop- 
per ores  are  also  found  with  other  valuable  minerals.  The  towa 
was  formerly  called  Adams,  afterwards  changed  to  Jackson,  to 
better  suit  the  political  proclivities  of  the  inhabitants.  The  town 
is  noted  for  its  fine  pastures,  the  green  hillsides  affording  grazing 
for  great  numbers  of  cattle  from  the  surrounding  country.  The 
way  from  Goodrich  Falls  to  Jackson  is  through  a  broad  valley, 
the  great  hills  clothed  in  thick  forests  lying  in  curving  lines  at 
some  distance  on  either  hand.  At  one  point  in  this  portion  of 
the  way  a  grand  view  of  the  great  mountains  of  the  White 
Mountain  range  is  had,  noted  for  the  grandeur  and  beauty  of  the 
picture. 

The  Jackson  Falls  Hotel  is  close  by  the  falls,  which  give  the 
house  its  name.  It  is  a  favorite  retreat  for  anglers.  "  Wild  Cat 
Brook"  here  joins  the  Ellis  river — the  rapids  on  the  same  are  near 
at  hand  and  are  worthy  of  attention.  There  is  another  small  but 
comfortable  hotel  at  this  place, 

Jackson  City  is  the  pretentious  name  of  a  little  village  resorted 
to  by  those  wishing  the  quiet  which  is  here  obtained.  There  are 
two  comfortable  hotels  here  located  and  boarding  accommodations 
to  be  had  in  families. 

PINKHAM    NOTCH, 

or  Pinkham  Pass,  takes  its  name  from  the  family  of  early  settlers 
of  that  name  who,  in  April  1790,  tenanted  a  log  house,  previ- 
ously erected,  which  they  found  buried  in  the  deep  snows  of  that 
inclement  season.  The  ingenuity  of  one  of  the  boys  in  harness- 
ing the  pig  (their  only  live  stock),  to  the  hand-sled,  containing 
the  entire  outfit  of  the  family,  is  narrated  by  Wi  lley  in  his  "  Inci- 
dents of  White  Mountain  History ;"  he  also  relates  the  incidents 
of  the  fearful  tornado  of  1821,  which  sVept  the  town. 

Passing  the  ways  leading  from  the  road  to  Glen  Ellis  Falls  and 
the  Crystal  Cascade,  which  we  shall  visit  from  the  Glen  House, 
by  the  contiguous  sources  of  the  Ellis  and  Peabody  Rivers,  and 
along  the  increasing  and  musical  line  of  the  latter  stream.  Mount 
Carter  being  occasionally  seen  to  the  right,  you  ride  through 
forests,  charmingly  festooned  with  mosses,  cross  the  bridge  on 


94 


NORTH ERN   PLEASURE    TRAVEL. 


the  Peabody  River,  pass  the  carriage  road  to  Mount  Washinjijton 
to  the  left,  and  ascend  to  the  hospitable  shelter  ttiid  the  enjoyment 
of  the  startling  views  so  peculiar  to  the 

GLEN   HOUSE, 


conducted  by  W.  &  C.  R  Milliken,  with  S.  H.  Cummings,  under 
the  firm  name  of  J.  M.  Thompson  &  Co.  This  house  is  situated 
within  the  vast  hollow,  bounded  by  a  rim  of  mountain  peaks,  and 


NORTHERN    PLEASURE   TRAVEL.  95 

is  located  more  than  1,000  feet  above  the  sea  level.  Mount 
Washington  is  in  view  from  its  ground?.  Adams,  Jefferson,  Clay 
and  Madison  circle  away  to  the  northeast  in  impressive  grandeur, 
seamed  with  the  scars  of  many  a  terrilic  slide  and  desolating  tor- 
rent. Mount  Adams  appears  from  this  point  the  highest,  but  les8 
burly  and  majestic  than  Washington. 

Mount  Carter  is  in  the  rear  of  the  Glen  Ilouse,  and  from  its 
side  the  tourist  who  take"  the  trouble  to  climb  through  the  forests 
to  a  favorite  point  of  view,  will  gain  an  unobstructed  outlook 
upon  the  five  great  peaks  of  the  mountain  range  from  Washing- 
ton northward  —  Clay,  Jetferson,  Adams  and  Madison.  The 
traveler  who  makes  his  stay  at  this  house  for  a  time  will  be  at  no 
loss  for  lack  of  the  wonderful  and  the  beautiful  to  excite  and 
charm  away  the  hours.  The  house  itself  is  one  of  the  largest 
and  most  commodious  in  the  mountains,  in  appearance  like  two 
buildings,  connected  by  a  central  one,  giving  a  long  front  of  piazza, 
and  overlooking  the  Peabody  River  and  the  great  mountain  range. 
Stage  lines  connect  with  Eastern  Railway  trains  at  North  Con- 
way, and  with  Portland  and  Ogdensburg  Railroad  at  North 
Conway  and  Bartlett,  also  stage  line  through  Bartlett  to  Craw- 
ford House.  This  line  receives  less  patronage  since  the  opening ' 
of  the  railway  on  the  western  slope  of  the  mountain.  Autumnal 
catarrh  and  hay  fever  are  unknown  troubles  with  the  patrons  of 
this  house. 

The  house  was  opened  June  12th,  for  visitors,  and  an  excellent 
band  of  music  is  in  attendance  for  promenading  and  dancing  in 
its  spacious  halls. 

Visitors  to  the  Notch  may  ascend  to  the  summit  by  the  carriage 
road,  and  descend  by  the  Mountain  Riiilway  to  the  Fabyan 
Place  or  White  Mountain  House,  and  from  thence  to  the  Craw- 
ford House  at  the  Notch.  But  there  are  numerous  objects  of 
interest  in  and  around  the  Glen  which  will  be  visited  before 
making  the  ascent. 

PEABODY  RIVER. 

This  river  runs  in  front  of  the  hotel,  and  distant  about  a  mile 
from  the  hotel  on  the  same^re  those  curious  proofs  of  the  effects 
of  continued  action  of  running  water  upon  solid  rock,  known  as 


96  NORTHERN   PLEASURE   TRAVEL. 

the  "Garnet  Pools,"  wliere  the  soIiJ  g-anlte  bed  is  worn  for  some 
distance  into  curious  and  peculiar  for ais,  which  can  but  interest 
you. 

On  the  road  to  Conway,  over  which  you  have  come  from  Bart- 
lett,  a  more  leisurely  visit  will  enable  you  to  see  those  curiosities 
iu  nature  which  so  greatly  add  to  the  attractioiis  at  this  point. 

THE  EMERALD    POOL, 

near  the  roadway,  is  a  charming  reservoir  of  water  from  the 
river,  in  delightlul  quiet,  and  should  not  be  omitted  iu  the  sights 
of  the  region.    About  two  miles  from  the  hotel  are 

THOMPSON'S  FALLS, 

on  a  brook  of  no  great  rise,  leading  into  the  Peabody  River,  ex- 
tending for  nearly  three- fourths  of  a  mile  in  a  succession  of  lovely, 
broken  falls,  ot  easy  descent,  without  presenting  any  startling 
features,  but  with  much  of  picturesque  beauty,  and  the  climb 
along  the  wild  stream  brings  you  to  points  from  which  you  gain 
glorious  mountain  views.  The  falls  are  reached  by  a  walk  of 
*  about  a  fourth  of  a  mile  from  the  road. 

CRYSTAL  CASCADE. 

These  cascades  are  reached  by  a  path  diverging  from  the  road 
about  three  and  one-half  miles  south  ol  the  hotel,  and  leading  up 
the  side  of  the  great  mountain;  following  this  for  half  a  mile, 
you  reach  the  top  of  a  jutting  spur  overhanging  a  water-chiseled 
chasm,  through  which  a  bright  stream  gurgles  with  hoarse 
murmuring,  while,  from  far  up  on  the  mountain  side,  the  crystal 
cascade  comes  gliding  down ;  light,  feathery  and  white  as  the 
snow,  come  the  pure  waters  of  the  stream,  descending  from  the 
side  of  Mount  Washington,  under  the  walls  of  Tuckerman's 
Ravine — a  long,  sheer  descent  of  successive  leaps  and  turns. 
Over  a  rough  slope  of  rock,  in  a  descent  of  seventy-five  feet,  the 
waters  are  tossed  in  widening  folds,  like  gossamer  drapery  ani- 
mated by  the  movements  of  an  invisible  fairy  form  beneath,  con- 
trasting strongly  with  the  old  an*  seamed  rocks  of  the  cliff. 
Tuckerman's  Ravine  may  be  reached  by  climbing  directly  up 


NORTUERN   PLEASURE  TRAVEL.  97 

this  stream  from  the  Cascade  by  a  path  known  as  Thompson's 
path,  which  leaves  the  carriage  road  some  two  miles  from  the 
base  of  Mount  Washington,  but  is  perhaps  oftener  explored  by 
descending  into  it  from  the  summit.  This  long,  deep  ravine, 
in  the  southern  slope  of  the  mountain,  is  filled  to  great  deptli  by 
the  accumulated  snows  of  winter;  the  summer  heats  usually  dis- 
pel the  immense  snow  bank  during  the  month  of  August.  In 
the  process  of  melting,  the  gradual  wear  of  the  streams  some- 
times lorm  a  grand  arch  of  snow,  of  magnificent  proportions, 
and  worn  by  melting  processes  into  beautiful  forms  and  out- 
'mes. 

Hermit  Lake  is  a  small  sheet  of  water,  so  overhung  and  belit- 
tled by  the  great  southerly  walls  of  the  ravine,  as  to  be  passed  by 
with  comparatively  little  attention.  Climbing  up  through  the 
centre  of  this  great  gulf  the  walls  of  the  great  "Mountain  Am- 
phitheatre" rise  on  either  hand  and  in  advance;  a  vast  enclosure, 
to*the  great  proportions  of  which  the  eye  ac^usts  itself  to  full 
comprehension  but  slowly,  the  outlines  growing  more  and  more 
in  force  and  power  as  the  ability  to  comprehend  it  comes  with 
gazing. 

GLEN  ELLIS  FALLS, 

are  about  four  miles  from  the  Glen  House — reached  by  taking  a 
footpath  leading  from  the  main  road  through  a  pine  thicket,  which 
speedily  brings  you  to  the  brink  of  a  rocky  precipice,  above  a  nar- 
row gorge  overhung  with  dark  masses  of  foliage.  Descending 
this  cliff  by  the  irregular  natural  steps  and  rude  artificial  helps, 
you  reach  the  bottom  of  a  dark  chasm  and  stand  upon  the  brink 
of  a  foaming  caldron  of  emerald  water,  and  glancing  upwards, 
you  can  see  the  stream  leaping  seventy  feet  at  a  single  bound  from 
a  worn  channel  of  the  rock.  The  scenery  around  this  water-fall 
combiner  all  the  elements  of  beauty,  wildness  and  startling  con- 
trast, which  the  most  romantic  could  expect  or  desire ;  a  visit  to 
its  wonders  is  one  of  the  features  of  the  stay  at  the  Glen,  from 
which  regular  trips  are  made  to  this  wild  spot,  affording  grand 
views  of  Mount  Washington  on  the  way. 
T 


98  KORTIllBN   PLEASURE    TRAVIL. 


Ur  MOUNT  WA8UIKUTON  BY  CABIUAQE  BOAD. 

This  is  still  a  favorite  way  of  scaling  tlie  side  of  the  central 
suminil  of  the  mountains.  The  road  winds  along  the  mountain 
side  a  distance  of  eight  miles  from  the  hotel  to  the  Mount  Wash- 
ington Hou»e,and  is  both  safe  and  easy  of  ascent.  This  road  was 
llni^ilL'd  in  1801,  after  six  years  of  labor,  and  has  an  average  grade 
of  a  little  less  than  one  foot  in  eight,  from  which  it  varies  in  no 
great  degree.  The  time  occupied  in  making  the  ascent  is 
about  thiee  hours.  The  lower  half  of  the  journey  is  by  a  winding 
way  through  forests,  emerging  at  the  "Ledge"  upon  the  bare  wall 
of  the  mouutiun,  and  winding  along  the  brink  of  the  Great  Gulf, 
across  which  you  look  upon  the  entire  slopes  of  Mounts  Jellerson, 
Adauis  and  Madison,  and  continuing  on  it  overlooks  the  Glen 
and  the  valley  through  Pinkham  Pass,  and  up  the  valley  of  the 
Pealjody  hiver  toward  Gorham. 

The  views  widen  and  increase  in  scope  and  grandeur  as  yOu 
approach  the  summit,  which  seems  to  develope  itself  anew  as 
you  continue  to  rise  over  successive  ridges.  There  is  neither 
danger  or  inconvenience  in  this  way  of  ascent.  Baggage  wagons 
accompany  the  passenger  carriages,  enabling  parties  to  descend 
on  the  other  side  by  railway  to  the  Fayban,  White  Mountain,  Twin 
Mountain  or  Crawtord  House,  as  their  inclination  may  lead. 

The  view  from  the  summit  has  been  previously  described,  as 
have  also  the  accommodations  for  a  night  upon  the  summit,  or  a 
longer  stay  if  you  are  enamored  with  the  novel  experience  of 
life  at  an  elevation  of  6,300  feet  above  sea  level. 

Before  the  building  of  the  carriage  road  the  ascent  was  tire- 
some and  attended  with  danger.  4 

Near  the  summit,  on  the  road,  is  the  Lizzie  Bourne  monument, 
previously  noticed.  It  is  a  pyramid  of  rough  stones  surmounted 
by  a  slab.  Miss  Bourne  perished  from  exposure  on  this  spot  in 
1655.  In  company  with  two  male  relatives  they  attempted  the 
ascent  of  the  mountain  without  a  guide,  and,  bewildered  and 
chilled,  perished  from  exposure  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  tlio 
sunuuit  houses.  The  following  year  a  gentleman  from  the  South, 
who  attempted  the  journey  alone  in  August,  was  overtaken  by  a 
storm  and  perished  in  the  near  vicinity,  under  the  shelter  of  a 


KORTIIERK    PLEASURE   TRAVEL.  99 

shelving  rock;  liIs  remains  were  found  the  following  season. 
Near  by,  but  lower  down,  I>i'.  Hull  of  Boston  survived  exposure  to 
a  furious  snow  storm,  late  in  the  season,  and  was  rescued  when 
about  to  perish. 

We  have  again  brought  you  to  the  summit  and  again  leave  you 
to  choice  of  ways,  no  longer  wanting,  by  which  to  descend  and 
retrace  our  steps  to  the  Glen  House,  from  which  point  many  will 
wish  to  take  the  pleasant  trip  to  Gorham,  on  the  Grand  Trunk 
Railway,  in  the  Androscoggin  v^.lley,  and  distant  from  the  Glen 
some  eight  miles.  Stages  from  the  Glen  House  connect  with  all 
trains  over  the  Grand  Trunk  liailway  at  this  poiuL 

AROUND  GORHAM. 

The  scenery  around  Gorham  is  the  noblest  and  wildest  to  be 
seen  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  any  railroad  town.  The  An- 
droscoggin valley  and  the  hills  that  enclose  it,  the  distant  view  of 
the  great  mountains  of  the  central  group,  and  the  noble  outlook 
from  neighboring  hills,  make  a  visit  here  a  pleasure  to  live  in 
memory. 

The  many  patrons  of  that  fine  and  well  kept  hotel,  the  Alpine 
House,  learned  with  regret  of  its  destruction  by  lire  during  the 
winter  of  1872-3 ;  butj,he  attractions  at  this  point  will  not  long 
admit  of  the  want  of  a  tirst-class  house  remaining  unsupplied. 
Meanwhile,  the  tourist  or  traveler  will  tind  comfortable  enter- 
tainment at  the  smaller  hotels  of  the  town. 

Mount  Carter,  Mount  Moriah,  and  the  lesser  and  central 
"Imp,"  are  three  prominent  features  in  the  landscape  to  the 
south;  the  first  5,000  feet  in  height,  the  second  4,700  feet,  and  the 
three  forming  the  eastern  slope  of  the  Glen.  The  outline  of 
Mount  Moriah  is  a  series  of  curves  and  flowing  lines,  softened  by 
the  luxuriant  forests  which  clothe  its  waving  slopes.  Mount 
Carter  is  rugged,  scarred,  and  seamed,  in  the  long  slope  which  it 
presents  to  view  at  tliis  point. 

BANDOLPH  HILL, 

five  miles  from  the  village,  is  an  elevation  from  which  the  finest 
imaginable  view  of  the  surrounding  mountains  may  be  had,  and 


100  NORTHERN   PLEASURE  TUaVEL, 

is  a  favorable  point  from  which  to  study  the  rare  combinations  of 
the  wild  and  rugged  landscape. 

THE  PILOT  HILLS, 

to  the  northwest,  are  grand  in  outline,  and  in  a  deep  cleft  of  the 
range  the  ice  and  snow,  among  the  immense  granite  blocks  in  the 
cold  shadows  of  the  ravine,  defy  the  extreme  heat  of  the  warmest 
summer.  The  Androscoggin  Hills  lie  along  to  the  eastward. 
The  noble  outline  of  Mount  Hayes  to  the  northeast  being  the 
most  prominent  peak. 

DRIVES. 

A  stay  of  a  few  days  at  this  point  enables  the  tourist  to  enjoy 
the  fine  drives  in  this  vicinity.  The  drive  to  the  Lead  Mine 
Bridge,  four  miles  from  the  village,  near  the  abandoned  lead  mine, 
and  noted  as  a  favorable  site  from  which  to  view  the  valley  of  the 
Androscoggin,  with  its  chain  of  green  isles  and  background  of 
noble  mountains,  and  the  great  White  Mountains,  robbed  by  the 
distance  of  their  forbidding  aspects,  but  standing  out  in  noble 
outline  in  the  vast  picture  here  presented.  There  is  also  the 
drive  to  Shelburne,  six  miles  below,  and  the  view  from  Bald  Cap 
Mountain ;  to  Berlin  Falls,  six  miles  above  the  village — a  series 
of  rapids,  where,  for  nearly  a  mile,  the  Androscoggin  sweeps  in  a 
long,  rapid  descent,  much  admired  for  its  wild  beauty  and  fascinat- 
ing power.  A  bridge  crosses  the  river  at  the  narrowest  part,  from 
which  a  fine  view  of  the  sweeping  current  may  be  had.  These 
falls  will  be  judged  by  many  to  be  among  the  grandest  of  the 
mountain  tour,  and  the  scenery  along  the  way  is  continuous  in 
its  charm.  From  the  falls  the  drive  should  be  continued  some 
four  miles  to  Milan,  a  trip  elaborately  described  by  Starr  King. 

-  ASCENT  or  MOUNTAIN  SUMMITS.  -* 

The  climbing  of  Mount  Surprise  (1,200  feet  elevation,)  by  bridle- 
path requires  no  undue  exertions,  and  the  view  commands  an  un- 
obstructed sight  of  the  great  mountain  range,  and  looks  directly 
upon  the  wildest  and  most  rugged  scenery  of  the  hills  and  the 
Androscoggin  valley.    The  distance  is  two  and  one-hall*  miles, 


NORTHERN   PLEASURE   TRAVEL.  101 

and  the  ascent  occupies  about  one  and  one-half  hours.  No  summit 
so  easily  reached  commands  so  wide  and  charming  a  view  as  this. 
Mount  Hayes  (so  named  in  honor  of  a  former  landlady  of  the 
Alpine  House,)  may  also  be  ascended  by  bridlepath,  aftV>rding  a 
view  in  which  Mount  Washington  stands  out  in  all  its  majesty 
and  grandeur,  and  the  winding  valley  of  the  Androscoggin,  with 
its  clean  banks,  many  islands  and  noble,  enclosing  hills,  is  seen  for 
a  score  of  miles. 

Mount  Moriah  may  be  now  ascended  by  footpath.  Formerly  the 
bridlepath  was  largely  used  and  kept  in  safe  and  fine  condition, 
but  of  late  it  has  been  neglected.  From  this  summit  of  4,700  feet 
elevation,  reached  by  a  path  through  thick  forests  and  over  bare 
ledges  of  the  mountain  side,  the  outlook  is  upon  the  sea  of  sum- 
mits in  a  circle  broken  only  upon  the  southwest  by  the  open 
country  of  Maine. 

Athletic  tourists  sometimes  ascend  Mount  Madison  from  Gor- 
ham,  riding  to  the  foot  of  Randolph  Hill  and  following  a  blazed 
path.  A  competent  guide  should  be  engaged  for  the  excursion, 
which  may,  under  competent  guidance,  be  prolonged  over  Mounts 
Jefferson,  Adams  and  Clay,  to  Mount  Washington  summit,  but 
no  one  should  undertake  this  trip  who  is  not  equal  to  a  vigorous 
and  exhausting  tramp,  or  who  will  not  find,  in  the  savage  gorges 
and  great  ravines  into  which  the  path  enables  the  traveler  to 
look,  and  in  the  succession  of  views  had  along  the  way  of  pro- 
gress, from  points  not  often  trodden  by  foot  of  man,  an  ample 
recompense  for  the  hardships  of  the  journey. 

FROM  GOBHAM  TO  THE  NOTCH. 

The  route  to  the  Notch  from  Gorham  by  the  Cherry  Mountain 
road,  a  distance  of  thirty-two  miles,  affords  a  series  of  glorious 
views  during  the  entire  journey,  enabling  the  traveler  to  avail 
himself  of  the  extensive  prospect  from  Randolph  Hill,  before 
mentioned,  and  a  changing  succession  of  panoramic  pictures  of 
the  great  range  seen  from  this  northern  line  of  travel ;  especially 
is  the  view  from  the  road  in  Jefferson  one  to  be  forever  remem- 
bered, sweeping,  as  it  does,  a  wide  line  of  summits  standing  in  a 
vast  arc  of  circling  majesty.  At  the  point  where  the  Waumbek 
House  is  located,  at  the  base  of  Starr  King  Mountain  (3,80C  feet 


102         KORTHERN  PLEASURE  TRAVEL. 

elevation),  the  finest  view  is  had.  At  this  house  many  halt  for 
dinner,  and  for  the  enjoyment  ot  the  view  from  its  piazzas.  A 
path  leads  up  the  mountain  from  this  house,  and  a  prolonged  stay 
cannot  iiiil  to  be  a  pleasant  one.  In  the  valley  fronting  the  hotel 
is  the  peculiar  mound,  sometimes  called  the  "  Sleeping  Giant," 
from  a  seeming  resemblance  to  a  giant  human  form  lying  upon 
his  back.  To  the  southwest,  in  clear  weather.  Mount  Washington 
and  the  attendant  peaks  appear  to  be  in  near  proximity.  The 
Franconia  range  is  to  the  west,  and  the  Pilot  Mountains  to  the 
north.  This  house  is  distant  17  miles  from  the  Notch,  13  miles 
from  the  Fabyan  Place,  and  28  miles  from  the  Profile.  The  route 
from  this  point  to  the  Profile  House  is  through  the  growing  and 
enterprising  town  of  Whitefield,  and  over  the  hills  of  Bethlehem. 
The  road  to  the  Crawford  House  or  the  Fabyan  Place  is  along 
the  valley  towards  the  source  of  Israel's  River,  and  the  valley  of 
the  Ammonusuc,  passing  through  the  town  of  Carroll  and  along 
the  base  of  Cherry  Mountain  (3,219  feet  elevation),  beautifully 
wooded  to  the  summit,  with  the  peak  of  "  Owl's  Head"  at  its 
northern  extremity. 

CONWAY,  N.  H. 

This  quiet  valley  town  on  the  banks  of  the  Saco,  though  for- 
gotten and  overshadowed  by  the  places  of  more  general  resort, 
has  great  charms  for  those  who  have  learned  to  enjoy  its  quiet 

nd  the  beauty  of  the  surrounding  landscape.  The  Conway 
House,  L.  H.  Eastman,  proprietor,  is  one  of  the  largest  and  best 
of  the  hotels  of  this  region,  providing  for  guests  all  substantial 
comforts.  The  livery  stable  is  one  of  the  best  connected  with 
any  of  the  country  hotels.  Patrons  are  taken  to  all  points  of 
interest  in  the  mountain  region,  and  the  many  drives  are  unsur- 
passed in  their  attractions.  Anglers  find  this  a  favorite  plac^at 
which  to  spend  a  few  days  or  weeks,  and  those  seeking  quiet 
retirement  in  near  vicinity  to  the  attractions  of  the  mountains 
can  but  be  pleased  with  a  few  weeks  or  months  of  rest  in  this 
intervale  town.  The  PequaJcet  House  is  a  smaller  but  commo- 
dious and  well  kept  hotel. 


NOETHERX  PLEASURE  TRAVEL.  103 

NORTH   CONWAY. 

This  charming  village  is  reached  by  the  route  by  boat,  stage 
and  rail  from  Weirs  and  Centre  Harbor,  previously  described, 
also  directly  from  Boston  over  the  Eastern  and  Great  Falls  and 
Conway  Railroad,  two  trains  each  day,  arriving  soon  after  noon 
and  in  the  early  evening,  the  time  by  fa?t  trains  being  about  five 
houi*s  from  Boston.  The  Portland  and  Ogdensburg  Railroad  iilso 
connects  with  Portland  (three  trains  each  day)  in  the  season  of 
pleasure  travel.  This  line  is  now  advanced  beyond  this  point  to 
Sawyer's  Rock,  beyond  Bartlett,  some  ten  miles  from  the  Craw- 
ford House,  and  the  management  intend  to  push  it  vigorously  to 
completion  through  the  Notch.  Elegant  cars  are  run  through 
from  Boston  over  the  Boston  and  Maine  and  Portland  and  Og- 
densburg roads,  without  change,  and  the  route  is  pleading  and 
attractive,  noted  for  the  smoothness  and  safety  with  which  trains 
are  run,  and  ample  time  for  dinner  on  the  shores  of  the  beautiful 
Sebago  Lake. 

HOTELS. 

Of  these  there  is  no  lack,  and  the  visitor  may  suit  his  tastes  as 
to  locality  and  style  of  entertainment.  In  the  immediai^e  vicinity 
of  the  new  Eastern  Railroad  station  is  the  new,  large  and  com- 
modious first-class  hotel,  the  Kiarsarge  House^  kept  by  Messrs. 
Thompson  &  Andrews.  It  will  accommodate  three  hundred 
guests,  and  is  built  and  furnisLsd  >..  n  a  scale  of  liberality  which 
is  sustained  in  the  details  of  management.  The  building  is 
lighted  with  gas,  and  the  nearness  to  the  station  is  a  convenience 
to  business  men. 

The  Intervale  ffousCf  kept  by  Mudgett  &  Eastman,  is  located  ^ 
under  the  slope  of  Mount  Pequaket,  or  Kiarsarge,  and  is  within 
a  beautiful  enclosure  of  hills  and  surrounded  by  attractive  points, 
Qiisily  reached  by  short  walks  from  the  Hotel.  The  buildings  are 
comparatively  new,  and  it  will  be  found  to  be  a  centre  of  attrac- 
tions for  those  who  tarry  at  this  point.  The  Sunset  Pavilion^ 
by  the  Masons,  is  ejjtensively  patronized,  and  the  managers  and 
employees  evidently  intend  that  there  shall  be  no  lack  of  attention 
on  their  part  to  the  wants  of  their  patrons.  The  McMillan 
House  is  to  the  southward,  in  the  direction  of  Artists'  Falls,  and 


104  NORTHERN  PLEASURE  TRAVEL. 

the  North  Conway  House,  by  N.  R.  Mason,  the  Washington 
House  and  the  Randall  Ilouse  all  receive  extensive  patronage  in 
the  summer  month». 

The  Mason  Ilouse  is  a  new  and  elegant  hotel,  complete  in  its 
furnishing,  kept  by  the  senior  Mason,  formerly  of  the  Sunset 
Pavilion,  so  long  and  favorably  known  to  the  traveling  public. 
It  is  the  most  convenient  house  to  the  depot  of  the  Eastern 
Kailroad,  and  here  travelers  and  tourists  will  find  all  needed 
comforts  and  attention. 

The  liandall  House  is  a  commodious  and  well  furnished  hotel, 
greatly  enlarged  the  present  season,  kept  by  J.  T.  Randall,  Esq., 
well  known  to  frequenters  of  this  fair  village  for  several  years. 
Carriages  connect  with  the  railroad  trains  from  all  the  hotels. 

This  romantic  village  is  the  centre  of  resort  in  the  Saco  valley, 
and  the  key  to  the  mountain  region  from  the  southeast.  The 
village  lies  upon  a  plain  of  some  four  or  five  miles  long  by  three 
wide,  overlooking  the  intervales  of  the  Saco,  which  is  here  a 
stream  of  several  rods  in  width,  fordable  in  many  places  and  flow- 
ing over  a  bed  of  the  purest  stones  and  pebbles,  worn  and  washed 
to  smoothness  and  whiteness  by  the  pure  waters.  The  stream  is 
liable  to  rapid  rising  at  times,  to  the  great  danger  of  those  having 
property  upon  its  banks ;  at  the  lime  of  the  Willey  disaster  it  rose 
twenty-four  feet  in  a  single  night. 

The  smiling  intervales  or  meadows  are  noted  for  their  beauty, 
and  the  distant  view  of  the  giant  peaks  of  the  White  Mountains 
to  the  northward,  looking  up  the  Saco  valley,  is  considered  one 
of  the  finest  in  the  state,  the  distance  softening  all  harsh  and 
rugged  outlines  into  beautiful  curves  and  combinations.  The 
sunsets  at  this  point  are  of  peculiar  beauty,  gilding  and  fading  on 
the  range  of  bold  summits,  before  advancing  shadows — a  vast 
picture  of  soft  and  flowing  outline,  over  which  the  rolling  vapors 
sweep  and  clouds  hover,  contending  with  the  struggling  light 
upon  the  peaks  of  bold  summits  and  in  the  wild  mountain  gorges. 

To  the  nortlieast  of  the  village, 

PEQUAKET, 

or  Kiarsarge  Mountain  rises,  a  lone,  swelling  summit,  symmetrical 
in  outline,  surmounted  by  the  hotel  clamped  to  the  rocks  of  the 


NORTHEilN  PLEASURE  TRAVEL.  105 

very  summit.  The  elevation  is  3,367  feet,  and  it  stands  like  an 
immovable  sentinel  upon  the  outpost  of  the  grim  host  of  hills. 
The  ascent  can  be  made  with  horses,  or  by  pedestrians,  without 
dithculty,  to  the  very  summit.  From  this  hijjjhest  southern  eleva- 
tion there  is  a  magnificent  view  of  the  whole  army  of  hills  to  the 
north  and  west,  including  the  whole  White  Mountain  Range,  and 
of  tlie  central  dome  Mount  Washington,  and  Mount  Lafayette  of 
the  Franconia  group.  The  fair  valley  of  the  Saco  can  be 
followed  from  near  its  source  in  the  mountain  fastnesses  far  on 
its  course  to  the  sea.  To  the  east  lie  the  reaches  of  level  country 
in  Maine  and  the  waters  of  fair  Sebago  and  the  lesser  likes. 

There  is  a  range  of  rugged  hills  to  the  east  called  "  Rattlesnake 
Ridge,"  and  "  Mote  Mountain"  to  the  southwest,  with  the  sharp 
pyramids  of  old  Chucorua  in  the  same  direction,  but  in  the  far 
distance. 

Starr  King  says  "  we  hav3  seen  no  other  region  of  New  England 
so  swathed  in  dreamy  charm," — that  at  times  "the  spiritual  heights, 
from  which  nature  issues,  unseal  their  opulance,  and  send  the 
freshet  of  bloom — times  when  the  finer  '  light  in  light '  will  break 
its  bounds,  and  the  whole  valley  will  turn  into  a  goblet  brimming 
with  beauty  too  liberal  to  be  contained  by  the  mountain  walls 
that  are  tinted  with  its  wierd  waves." 

THE  WHITE  HOBSE  LEDGES, 

upon  the  face  of  Mote  Mountain,  rise  almost  perpendicularly  in 
a  rocky  face  of  several  miles  extent,  reaching  at  some  points  a 
height  of  eight  hundred  feet.  In  the  ride  to  these  ledges  from 
the  village  by  the  road,  through  the  fields  and  plains,  the  sparkling 
waters  of  the  Saco  are  twice  forded;  but  it  may  require  the  aid 
of  the  imagination  to  discern  the  outlines  of  the  "  White  Horse" 
upon  the  frowning  wall ;  but  thert  is  no  lack  of  real  attractions, 
among  which  is  the  beautiful 


^-iS- 


ECHO    LAKE, 


a  gem  among  the  mountain  lakes,  unruffled  by  the  slightest 
breeze,  sleeping  beneath  the  rocky  walls  and  reflecting  the  bold 
outline  of  overhanging  cliffs.    The  blast  of  a  horn  and  the  sound 


106  NORTHERN  PLEASURE  TRAVEL. 

of  the  voice  Is  clearly  and  sharply  echoed  from  the  cliffs,  some- 
times, Willi  a  sfiglit  re-echo,  but  wanting  the  resounding  rex)etitlon 
ot  the  lilie  named  wonder  at  Franconia. 

THE  CATHEDRAL. 

In  the  wall  of  the  great  ledges  next  visited,  is  a  cave  of  forty 
feet  in  depth  by  some  sixty  feet  in  height ;  you  stand  within  it,  as 
within  a  wide,  rough  granite  alcove  in  the  face  of  the  wall,  the 
forest  trees  standing  in  audience  before  you  and  shading  the  light 
which  falls  within.  Along  the  seamed  walls  the  work  of  the 
silent  forces  of  the  frost  are  seen  at  the  base ;  great  flakes  and 
blocks  pried  off  the  granite  tace  of  the  walls  by  freezing  wedges 
of  ice  lie  in  confusion,  and  others  seem  hanging  only  by  the 
slightest  hold,  which  the  next  frost  wedge  will  loosen  and  hurl 
below. 

devil's  den. 

In  the  debris  at  the  foot  of  the  ledge,  not  far  from  the  Cathe- 
dral, formed  by  a  huge  scale  of  granite,  sliding  over  a  mass  of 
loose  blocks,  is  the  "  Devil's  Den,"  an  enclosed  space  in  tlie  fallen 
mass  entered  by  creeping  through  a  tortuous  passage.  By  light- 
ing a  fire  in  this  cave  you  can  take  a  lunch,  with  no  fear  of  dis- 
turbance from  his  Santanic  majesty,  and  to  the  great  delight  of 
the  juveniles. 

Thompson's  Falls  must  not  be  forgotten  in  the  visit,  and 

DIANA'S  BATHS 

are  another  wonder  which  should  be  seen  by  all.  Another  way, 
through  pastures  and  forests,  and  you  reach  a  small  mill,  above 
which  the  stream  from  the  forest  flows  over  a  bed  of  the  whitest 
granite,  flecked  with  crystals.  Ordinarily  the  flow  of  water  is 
not  large,  but  the  solid  granite  bed  is  worn  in  every  conceivable 
form,  dropping  in  steps  at  irregular  intervals,  and  filled  with  wells 
worn  in  the  solid  surface  by  whirling  eddies  and  revolving  bould- 
ers, seamed  by  the  swift  and  continual  flow  of  ceaseless  currents 
into  curious  and  fantastic  grooves.  Sometimes  the  limpid  current 
flows  through  a  single  worn  channel  In  its  plunge  over  the  rocky 


NORTHERN  PLEASURE  TRAVEL.  107 

step,  then  follows  an  oblique  seam  in  the  rock  in  its  well  worn 
way  until  it  plunges  through  a  series  of  oi)enings  on  the  brink  of 
the  next  descent,  or  drops  into  the  spiuklhig  wells  in  the  solid 
bed,  to  overflow  in  bubbling  purity  and  take  its  next  leap  in  a 
wide  sheet  of  transparent  beauty.  Unless  swollen  by  unusual 
rains  you  need  not  look  for  startling  or  overwhelming  features; 
but  for  curious  and  beautiful  combinations  it  is  worthy  of  a  visit, 
and  will  impress  itself  indelibly  on  the  memory. 

artist's  falls. 

These  charming  falls  are  to  the  south  of  the  village,  and  are 
widely  known  in  prints  and  photographic  representations.  All 
will  wish  to  look  upon  the  beautiful  ttill  among  the  wild  combi- 
nation of  rocks  and  shading  trees ;  but  here,  as  in  nearly  all  the 
charms  around  North  Conway,  look  rather  for  the  quietly  beauti- 
ful than  the  overpowering  and  forbidding  aspects  presented  in 
the  immediate  vicinity  of  the  mountains. 

DRIVES. 

Though  you  may  remain  for  weeks  at  North  Conway,  you  may 
have  a  new  drive  or  walk  of  absorbing  interest  each  day  of  your 
stay,  to  points  of  interest  through  a  country  which  can  but  interest 
you.  Excursions  to  Chucorua  Lake  and  Gould's  Pond,  to  Con- 
way Corner,  to  Fryeburg,  once  a  very  important  village,  built  on 
a  broad  plain  within  a  wide  sweep  of  the  Saco.  At  this  place 
Daniel  Webster  once  taught  the  village  academy,  and  here  and 
at  Ossipee  are  many  Indian  relics.  Near  by  is  Lovewell's  Pond, 
with  thickly  wooded  shores,  near  which  was  fought  that  desperate 
battle  with  the  Indians,  so  terrible  in  the  slaughter  of  both  the 
whites  and  savages  —  one  of  the  most  fierce  and  obstinate  of  the 
encounters  with  the  Pequaket  Indians.  The  commander,  Capt. 
Lovewell,  and  more  than  a  quarter  of  the  whole  white  force,  fell 
at  the  first  onset,  but  the  fight  continued  for  ten  hours,  when  the 
savages  retired.  An  excursion  to  Jackson  and  the  Cascades,  on 
the  branch  of  the  Ellis  River,  should  not  be  omitted. 

CHUCORUA. 

That  "rocky  mass  of  bare  granite  spires   and  shafts,"  the 


108  NORTHERN  PLEASURE  TRAVEL, 

sharpest  pinnacle  of  the  entire  region,  excepting  Mount  Adams, 
reaches  an  elevation  of  3,360  feet.  The  scaling  of  its  upright 
ledges  is  esteemed  a  test  of  courage  and  strength.  It  may  be 
reached  from  Conway. 

The  Baukft  IIouHe,  at  West  Ossipee,  a  favorite  poli.t  of  de- 
parture under  Its  former  management,  which  will  be  sustained 
and  improved  by  the  present  proprietors.  A  fine  view  of  the 
mountain  and  the  surrounding  country  is  had  from  this  point, 
and  teams  are  furnished  for  excursionists,  sportsmen  and  others. 
J.  H.  Plummer,  Esq.,  is  the  present  proprietor. 

MONTREAL. 

Reaching  tills  Canadian  metropolis,  by  either  of  the  ways  of 
approach  described  under  the  heads  of  routes,  your  first  question 
will  no  doubt  be  for  a  place  at  which  to  tarry  during  your  stay. 
At  the 

MONTREAL  HOUSE, 

Custom  House  Square,  Montreal,  Decker  &  Co.,  proprietors,  re- 
cently remodeled  and  refitted  throughout,  you  will  find  all  the 
requisites  for  making  your  stay  both  comfortable  and  pleasant. 
Located  in  full  view  of  the  great  Victoria  Bridge,  near  the  land- 
ing of  the  foreign  steamers  and  river  boats,  and  convenient  to  all 
points  of  Interest.  Decker  &  Co.,  the  proprietors,  have  had  long 
experience  in  the  keeping  of  first-class  houses,  and  patrons  will 
not  be  disappointed.  Carriages  furnished  at  the  hotel  for  drives 
to  all  part«  of  the  city  and  the  surroundings.  The  rooms  are  not 
suqjassed  by  any  hotel  in  the  city,  and  no  requisite  of  a  first-class 
hotel  will  be  found  wanting.  The  large,  airy  rooms,  healthful 
breeze  from  the  river,  supplemented  by  faithful  attendance,  and 
reasonable  charges,  will  recommend  the  house  to  your  renewed 
patronage  should  you  once  make  it  your  home. 

This  commercial  and  financial  metropolis  of  the  Canadas  is 
also  the  most  populous  of  Canadian  cities — some  140,000  souls. 
It  is  situated  at  the  head  of  river  navigation  proper,  540  miles 
from  the  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence,  on  the  Island  of  Montreal,  which 
lies  between  the  broad  St. Lawrence  and  the  rapid  Otiawa — the  two 


)<IM^!l<l   ^ 


W    .<■:■ 
I'    ,■,.|:■■ 


.  .'fll"|l''l'/''('l'il|/' 


D 
O 

a 

H 

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7; 

O 


110  NORTH KRN  PLEASURE  TRATEL. 

great  rivers  of  tlie  North.  The  Island  extends  some  tldrty-two 
miles  in  length  and  ten  in  width,  and  is  considered  the  garden  of 
the  Provinces.  The  surlace  is  generally  level,  excepting  the 
eminence  of  Monnt  lioyal  in  the  background,  rining  550  feet 
above  river  level,  and  from  which  the  city  talviis  its  name, 
Montreal  being  a  shortening  or  modittcation  of  Mount  ItoyaL 

The  settlement  of  the  town  was  determined  upon  by  the  flrst 
explorer,  Jaques  Cartier,  in  IS^^o,  the  site  being  that  of  the  old 
Indian  village  of  "llochelaga,"  but  tlie  permanent  founding  of 
the  city  did  not  take  place  till  1042,  and  in  one  hundred  years  of 
growth  it  gathered  a  population  ot  only  4,000  souls ;  since  then 
the  growth  has  been  rapid. 

It  was  under  French  rule  till  1700,  when  it  passed  into  the 
hands  of  tlw'  English.  In  1775  Ethan  Allen  made  his  mad  attack 
upon  the  city  with  a  handful  of  men,  and  was  defeated  and  cap- 
tured; but  shortly  after,  in  the  same  year,  Montgomery  entered 
the  city  in  triumph.  The  water  communication  with  the  city  is 
said  to  be  the  most  extensive  of  any  city  in  the  world  so  far  in- 
land. 

Here,  as  at  Quebec,  are  the  lower  and  the  upper  town,  though 
not  so  plainly  separated  by  unmisUikable  natural  elevations  as  in 
tlie  more  northern  capital.  The  lower  town  is  somewhat  cramped 
and  gloomy  in  the  laying  out  of  the  narrow  streets  and  style  of 
the  buildings  in  the  old  French  order,  while  the  upper  town  has 
wide  streets  and  squares,  with  large,  imposing  structures,  built 
mostly  of  the  greyish  limestone  of  the  region. 

The  broad  quays  of  solid  limestone  are  unsurpassed  by  any  on 
the  continent,  and,  to  accommodate  the  growing  commerce  of 
this  thriving  inland  port,  the  docks  and  basins  are  continually 
being  improved  and  enlarged.  Vessels  from  all  parts  of  the 
world  lie  at  its  wharves ;  ocean  steamers  of  three  thousand  tons, 
and  sailing  vessels  of  twelve  hundred  tons  can  reach  the  city  and 
be  accommodated  in  the  harbor.  A  wide  terrace,  faced  with 
grey  limestone,  crowned  on  the  parapet  by  a  durable  iron  rail- 
ing, divides  the  city  from  the  river. 

•  VIEW  OF  THE  CTTT. 

Approached  by^the  rivtr,  by  steamer  from  Lacliine,  the  sight 


NORTDEKN    PLEASURE   TRAVEL.  Ill 

presented  to  the  stranger  is  one  of  rare  Interest  and  beauty ;  the 
glittering  sj.*.  ;8  and  great  domes  and  towers  combine  iii  royal 
proportions;  tlie  enduring  structures  of  cut  stone  stretch  in  a 
long  line  upon  tlie  river  Iront.  Mount  Koyal  h  in  tlie  background, 
and  you  pass  beneath  that  great  triumph  of  modern  uuterpriso 
and  engiueeriugi 

THE  VICTORIA  BRIDOK, 

which  serves  the  important  purpose  of  giving  uninterrupted  rail 
conununicution  between  tlie  Eastern  Stales  and  Canadas  and  the 
Great  West.  It  is  used  only  for  railway  tran^it  and  gives  to  the 
Grand  Trunk  Railway  full  control  of  railway  approaches  fiom 
the  Eiist.  This  great  work,  sometimes  cliissed  as  the  eighth  arti- 
ficial wonder  of  the  world,  was  completed  in  18()0,  under  the 
superintendence  of  Kobert  IStephenson  and  his  associates,  and  is 
one  and  a  quarter  miles  iu  length,  or  two  miles  including  the 
extensions.  It  is  supported  on  twenty-four  piers,  the  central 
span  being  three  bundled  and  thirty  feet,  the  remaining  ones  two 
hundred  and  forty-two  feet,  with  massive  abutments;  the  bridge 
tube  is  of  iron,  twenty-two  feet  high  by  sixteen  wide,  slightly  les- 
sening at  tlie  ends.  It  was  erected  at  a  cost  of  ^(),;>00,000.  The 
height  of  the  centre  spau  above  ordinary  river  level  is  sixty  leet. 
Three  million  cubic  feet  of  masonry  and  ten  thousand  tons  of  irou 
enter  into  the  constructiou  of  the  gigantic  work.  There  is  au 
opening  in  the  centre  affording  a  magnificent  river  view.  No 
railroad  train  is  allowed  to  enter  this  bridge  without  a  written 
permit  from  the  proper  officer,  thus  insuring  exemption  from  col- 
lision or  accident;  the  passage  is  somewhat  cheerless,  occupying 
some  six  minutes,  though  seeming  much  longer  to  the  passenger. 
By  obtaining  a  permit,  at  tlie  office  of  the  Grand  Trunk  liailway, 
tourists  can  inspect  a  portion  of  the  interior  of  the  bridge.  The 
river  beneath  the  bridge  has  a  swift  current  and  the  piers  are 
calculated  to  witiistaud  immense  pressure  ft'oin  descending  masses 
of  ice.  ■■■-      .  •       -       .     ..  :  : 

PLACES  OF  INTEREST. 

Of  massive  bnildings,  combining  show  of  stren^'t'i  and  perma- 
nence witli  architectural  beauty,  there  is  no  lack  in  oilontreaL    On 


112  NORTH KBN    PLEASUBE   TRAVEL, 

Groat  St.  James  street  the  Post  Oftlce  is  a  beaut ifiil  building  of 
cut  stone;  adjoining,  and  of  more  elal)orute  artliitccture,  is  the 
Banlc  of  British  Norlli  America;  on  the  same  street  is  the  build- 
ing couHtructed  of  f^uudslone,  and  perhaps  the  finest  in  the  city, 
known  as  Molson's  Bank,  and  the  fine  building  in  the  Italian 
style,  with  an  elaborately  decorated  lecture  room,  known  as  the 
Mechanics'  Institute. 

On  Notre  Dame  street,  built  in  tlie  Grecian,  Ionic  style,  Is  the 
New  Court  House,  of  elegant  proportions  and  material.  The 
Old  Government  House  is  on  tlie  same  street. 

Tlie  Nelson  Monument,  at  the  head  of  Jaques  Cartler  Square, 
is  a  column  of  grey  limestone  crowned  with  the  ligure  of  tlie  hero 
of  Trafalgar. 

The  Champ  de  Mars  is  the  parade  ground  for  the  garrison 
regiments  and  volunteer  soldiery;  three  thousand  troops  may  be 
reviewed  upon  it,  and  it  is  a  favorite  promenade  for  citizens.  Here 
the  fine  bands  of  the  regiments  often  discourse  sweet  music 
during  the  summer  evenings.  Facing  this  8(iuare  is  the  Geologi- 
cal Museum  with  its  extensive  collection  of  specimens. 

Viger  Square,  near  the  Champ  de  Mars,  is  beautifully  laid  out 
as  a  garden,  with  conservatory,  fountains,  etc. 

On  St.  Catherine  street  is  the  English  Cathedral,  the  most 
perfect  specimen  of  Gothic  architectre  in  America,  surrounded  by 
a  cluster  of  lofty  spires. 

Bonsecours  Market  is  a  magnificent  edifice,  the  dome  of  which 
attracts  attention  as  you  land  from  the  boat.  Tlie  upper  stories 
contain  the  city  offices,  a  magnificent  hall  or  concert  room  which 
will  seat  4,(  00  persons,  and  the  rooms  of  the  City  Council  most 
elegantly  ornamented  and  arranged.  The  location  is  at  the 
corner  of  Water  and  St.  Paul's  streets. 

The  McGill  College,  so  called  from  Hon.  James  McGill,  who 
liberally  endowed  the  institution,  has  extensive  buildings  and 
museum.  :  r  "■  •  ;    •      ->5. 

St.  Patrick's  Hall  was  a  fine  building  on  Victoria  square,  but 
was  destroyed  by  fire  in  1872.  The  dry  goods  and  hardware 
trade  centres  are  on  St.  Paul  street,  which  presents  a  fine  line  of 
warehouses.  But  the  great  centre  of  interest  lor  strangers  is  the 
French 


NORTHERN    PLBV3UBB   TRAVEL.  113 

OATUEDUAL  OF  NOTBB  DAME, 

repute*!  to  be  the  largest  church  edifice  In  N'orth  America,  holdiag 
withia  its  walls  10,000  people.     The  building  la  two  hundred  and 
sixty  feet  long  by  oue  huadred  and  lorty  feet  broad,  and  the  two 
massive  towers,  flanking  the  front  upon  the  square,  rise  two 
hundred  and  twenty  feet.   There  Is  a  famous  peal  of  bells  In  the 
left  tower,  one  of  whicli  is  the  fainou^  "Gros  Bourdon,"  weigliing 
fifteen  tons  and  having  a  deep  bass  intonation.     Tlu   prosiiect 
from  the  right  tower,  which  can  be  ascended  by  payment  of  a 
Blight  fee,  is  wonderfully  wide,  looking  out  upon  tlie  broad  waters, 
the  islands  and  sliipping  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  the  rai)ids  of 
Lachine,  the  distant  Vermont  hills  and  the  suburban  villages. 
The  seminary  ol  St.  Sulpice  adjoins  the  Catliedral  and  is  sur- 
rounded by  spacious  gardens  and  court  yards.     In  near  vicinity, 
around  this  fine  square,  are  the  noble  buildings  of  the  Important 
Banking  and  Insurance  Companies  of  the  Dominion. 

DRIVE3. 

The  Canadian  carriage  is  kept  with  scrupulous  neatness,  the 
drivers  are  your  willing  and  obliging  servants,  knowing  every 
inch  of  the  routes  by  which  they  convey  you,  and  the  prices,  un- 
like American  coaching  fares,  do  not  spoil  the  fairest  prospects 
by  threatening  total  ruin  to  your  finances.  A  vehicle  drawn  by 
two  horses  may  be  had  at  a  charge  of  one  dollar  for  first  hour, 
and  seventy-five  cents  for  additional  hours ;  for  carriage  with  one 
horse  for  one  or  two  persons,  fifty  cents  first  hour,  and  forty  cents 
for  additional  hours  is  about  the  usual  charge ;  and,  for  trips  to 
the  suburbs,  charges  vary  with  the  number  of  the  party  and  dis- 
tance. Carriages  will  be  found  at  the  Railway  station,  and  the 
tourist  can  proceed  immediately  on  his  ride  through  the  city  if 
pressed  for  time. 

The  drive  of  nine  miles  around  the  mountain,  visiting  the 
Mount  Royal  Cemetery,  two  miles  from  the  city,  on  the  northern 
slope  of  Mount  Royal,  approached  by  a  broad  avenue,  and  of  itself 
well  worth  a  visit,  is  a  trip  which  should  by  no  means  be  omitted, 
afibrding  as  it  does  commanding  and  attractive  views  of  the  Ca- 
nadian metropolis  and  the  great  river  of  the  North,  which  no 
8 


114         NORTHEKN  PLEASURE  TRAVEL. 

lover  of  the  beautiful  and  the  grand  in  land8cape  should  fail  to 
enjoy. 

The  Tiews  obtained  from  the  Water  Works  Reservoir,  a  mile 
from  the  city,  cut  in  the  solid  rock,  are  extensive  and  interesting. 
A  drive  down  the  river  bank  to  Lougue  "Point  is  in  great  favor 
Willi  the  people  of  the  city,  and  will  prove  of  interest  to  visitors. 

The  drive  which,  perhaps,  will  prove  of  greatest  interest,  is 
that  of  nine  miles  to  the  village  of  Lachine.  The  Lachine  road 
leads  aloTig  the  banks  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  and  during  this  drive, 
by  selecting  the  proper  time,  the  descent  of  the  steamer  through 
the  Rapids  may  be  witnessed.  The  Rapids,  below  Lachine,  have 
a  fall  of  forty-four  and  a  half  feet,  and  the  descent  of  these  by 
steamer  is  one  of  the  sensations  of  your  visit.  Every  morning 
1(iu  suijimer)  a  train  leaves  the  railroad  station  on  Bona  venture 
street,  at  7  o'clock  a.m.,  for  Lachine,  connecting  with  the  small 
steamer  at  the  railroad  wharf,  for  the  trip  down  the  Rapids. 
Caughnawaga,  the  Indian  village  opposite,  is  the  point  from 
which  Baptiste,  the  renowed  Indian  pilot,  comes  out  in  his  bark 
canoe  to  pilot  the  boats  of  the  Canadian  Navigation  Company 
through  the  Rapids.  These  Rapids  offer  the  greatest  obstacle  to 
navigation  of  any  on  the  river,  and  that  immense  work,  the  La- 
chine Canal,  eight  and  one-half  miles  in  length,  was  constructed 
to  avoid  this  obstruction.  Improvements  about  to  be  made  will 
enable  all  descending  steam  craft  to  keep  the  river,  leaving  the 
canals  exclusively  to  sailinj^  vessels  and  ascending  boats. 

The  morning  trip  to  Lachine,  with  the  return  by  steamer 
through  the  Rapids,  and  beneath  the  largest  and  most  noted 
bridge  in  the  world,  givinar  the  favorite  view  of  the  city,  and 
landing  you  again  at  the  wharf  by  9  o'clock  A.M.,  will  prove  a 
wonderful  appetizer  and  a  lasting  pleasure. 

DOWN  THE  ST.   LAWBENCE. 

From  Montreal  to  Quebec  passage  may  be  made,  during  the 
season  of  navigation— usually  from  April  to  December— on  one 
of  the  staunch  and  commodious  steamers  owned  by  the  Richelieu 
Company,  and  called  the  "Montreal"  and  the  "Quebec."  Leaving 
Montreal  in  the  evening,  (excepting  Sunday  evening),  passing 


NORTHERN  PLEASURE  TRAVEL.  115 

• 

the  fort  on  the  island  in  the  harbor,  leaving  Lonouetl  to  the 
right,  and  passing  the  group  of  islands  below  the  city  and  the 
mouth  of  the  Ottawa  river,  you  are  fairly  on  the  way  to  the  old 
capital.  Bflceil  Mountain  attracts  attention  to  the  eastward,  and 
you  cannot  fail  to  be  interested  in  the  general  appearance  of  the 
novel  landscape,  a 'sort  of  "Northern  Holland,"  appearing  in 
many  instances  from  the  boat  to  be  below  water  level ;  in  other 
places,  as  you  progress,  the  shores  slope  in  terraces,  or  wide 
steps,  terminating  in  a  ridge. 

SoREL  or  William  Henry,  forty-five  miles  below  Montreal, 
is  the  first  station  where  a  halt  is  made  by  the  steamer.  This 
Canadian  town  is  built  around  a  central  square  at  ihe  confiuence 
of  the  St  Johns  (otherwise  known  as  the  Richelieu  or  Sorel 
river)  and  the  St.  Lawrence.  The  St.  Johns  or  Richelieu  River  is 
peculiar  in  the  fact  that,  at  its  outlet,  it  is  narrower  than  at  its 
source  or  through  its  course,  being  the  northern  outlet  of  Lake 
Champlain.  There  is  immense  transportation  of  lumber  along 
its  course. 

Some  fifty  miles  below  Montreal,  and  five  miles  below  Sorel, 
the  broad  river  expands  into  a  wide  lake  nearly  twenty-five  miles 
in  length,  and  (at  its  widest)  nine  miles  width,  known  as  "Lake 
St.  Peter,"  and  interspersed  with  islands  at  its  upper  entrance; 
though  the  wide  expansion  produces  a  shallow  depth,  the  channel 
followed  by  shipping  admits  the  passage  of  vessels  of  the  larger 
class.  The  River  St.  Francis  here  enters  the  lake  from  the 
south. 

The  scenery  along  the  route  may  not  prove  of  sufficient  variety 
and  interest  to  keep  the  traveler  from  needed  rest  through  the 
long  night  hours,  though  the  mighty  river,  draining  through  the 
lakes  that  immense  valley,  will  never  be  without  its  suggestions 
of  power;  and,  when  the  moon,  breaking  from  rolling  curtains 
of  cloud  tints  the  broad  expanse,  till  it  glitters  like  a  vast  surface 
of  silver  sparkling  with  diamond  points  of  light,  which  fade  and 
renew  in  the  wake  of  the  dancing  silver  waves  which  mark  your 
progress,  the  wakeful  traveler  will  find  no  lack  of  suggestive 
sights  in  his  midnight  watch. 

A  great  amount  of  shipping  of  every  class  will  be  passed,  and 
immense  timber  rails  will  be  observed  in  the  descent,  floating 


116  NORTHERN  PLEASURE  TRAVEL. 

down  to  the  gr^at  lumber  mart  at  Quebec,  sometimes  in  single 
rails  and  sometimes  in  many  combined  in  a  floating  timber  town, 
populous  with  hardy  lumbermen,  whose  songs  enliven  the  monot- 
ony of  their  voyage. 

The  town  of  "  Three  Rivers,"  midway  between  Montreal  and 
Quebec,  is  one  of  the  oldest  settlements  in  Canada,  has  convent 
buildings  and  church  edifices  of  considerable  architectural  pre- 
tensions. The  town  was  first  settled  in  1618,  and  has  a  popula- 
tion of  nearly  6,000  souls.  The  Kiver  St.  Maurice  here  joins  the 
St.  Lawrence  and  is  divided  at  his  mouth  by  islands  into  three 
distinct  channels,  (hence  the  name  of  the  town  "Three  Rivers.") 
Immense  quantities  of  logs  and  manufactured  lumber  come  down 
the  St.  Maurice,  to  this  lumber  centre,  where  are  located  several 
extensive  saw  mills  and  foundries.  A  branch  of  the  Grand 
Trunk  Railway  diverging  from  the  Quebec  division  at  Arthabaska 
has  its  terminus  at  Doucet's  Landing  opposite  this  point 

A  canoe  voyage  up  the  St.  Maurice  for  thirty  miles  to  the 
"Falls  of  the  Shawenegan"  is  sometimes  made.  Just  above  the 
mouth  of  the  Shawenegan  river  the  broad  stream  plunges  in  a 
sheer  descent  of  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet — a  natural  wonder, 
which,  if  easily  reached,  would  be  one  of  the  chief  attractions  of 
Canadian  travel. 

Some  fifty  miles  before  reaching  Quebec  the  rapids  of  Richelieu, 
where  the  river  contracts  into  narrow  space,  and  the  current 
flows  over  a  rocky  bed,  was,  in  the  olden  time,  considered  quite 
an  impediment  to  navigation;  below  these  rapids  the  banks 
become  gradually  elevated.  From  the  red  banks  of  Cape  Rouge 
(seven  miles  above  Quebec),  the  shores  of  the  river  rise  into  hills 
and  precipices.  The  Chaudiere  River  enters  six  miles  above  the 
city,  the  precipitous  banks  increase  in  height  and  the  eager 
stranger  catches  a  distant  view  of  the  towers  and  battlements  of 
the  grand  old  northern  city. 

Before  reaching  the  town,  "Wolfe's  Cove"  will  be  pointed  out 
to  the  left — that  memorable  spot  where  the  brave  commander 
landed  his  forces  under  cover  of  darkness,  and  scaling  the  preci- 
pice, fought  the  memorable  battle  which  changed  the  destiny  of 
the  western  empire.  The  round  Martello  Towers,  in  advance  of 
the  defences  of  the  city,  on  the  plains  of  Abraham,  first  attract 


NORTHKKN  PLEASURE  TRAVEL,         117 

attention,  and  you  sweep  in  full  view  of  the  defiant  battlements 
and  towers  which  crown  the  natural  walls  of  Old  Quebec  —  the 
seat  of  ancient  dominion — where  jealous  nations  contended  for 
supremacy  and  shook  its  rocky  throne  with  the  roar  and  clash  of 
contending  armies.  As  you  approach  the  point  of  landing  the 
grim  battlements  of  the  city  are  upon  the  left;  the  growing  settle- 
ment of  Point  Levi,  the  railway  terminus  at  this  point,  is  to  the 
right,  the  fair  island  of  Orleans  is  just  below  you,  while  about  you, 
in  one  of  the  grandest  inland  harbors  of  the  world,  capable  of 
floating  at  the  same  time  one  hundred  ships  of  the  line,  are  vessels 
of  every  class ;  the  largest  ever  constructed  can  float  under  the 
yery  walls  of  the  citadel. 

MONTREAL  TO    QUEBEC  BY  RAIL. 

Those  who  prefer  the  rail  route  to  a  night  trip  by  boat  can 
leave  the  station,  Bonaventure  street,  pass  through  the  "  Victoria 
Bridge,"  before  described,  through  St  Lambert's,  Beloeil,  St. 
Hillaire,  St.  Hyacinthe,  with  its  extensive  nunneries  and  church 
buildings,  Brittania  Mills,  Upton,  and  New  Durham,  to  Richmond 
Junction,  seventy-six  miles  from  Montreal,  where  cars  are  taken 
over  the  Quebec  division,  ninety-five  miles  to  Quebec.  Along 
this  line  the  scenery  will  b»  somewhat  bare  of  interest  to  a  major- 
ity of  travelers,  and,  in  a  sleeping  car,  the  traveler  may  perhaps 
with  great  propriety  take  his  ease  and  gather  strength  for  his 
tour  of  Quebec.  The  stations  are  Danville,  Warwick,  Arthabaska 
(branch  from  this  point  to  Three  Rivers),  Stanfold,  Somerset, 
Becancour,  Lyster,  Methot's  Mills,  Black  River,  Craig's  Road, 
C^audiere  Junction  and  Point  Levi,  ("the  Quebec  station. )  The 
country  passed  through  on  this  line  has  a  sameness  of  aspect,  and 
the  stations  are  not  points  of  particular  importance  other  than  as 
freight  and  trade  centres  for  the  adjacent  country.  A  railway 
along  the  north  shore  of  the  St.  Lawrence  is  projected  to  unite 
the  two  great  Canadian  cities,  but  its  early  construction  is  not 
assured.  You  cross  from  Point  Levi  by  ferry,  encircled  with 
points  and  objects  of  interests  on  either  bank,  on  the  island  below 
and  upon  the  surface  of  the  broad  harbor,  and  are  landed  beneath 
the  frowning  walls  of 


118 


>^OBTU£RN   PLEASURE   TRAVEL. 


o 


QUEBEC. 


On  your  arrival  your  inquiry  for  a  flrst-class  hotel  will  be  ans  • 
wered  by  your  being  directed  to  that  long  known  and  popular 
Louse,  the 


NOETHIRN    PLEASURE   TRAVEL 


.<•        •         119 


ST.   LOUIS  HOTEL, 

on  St.  Louis  street. 

This  is  a  long  established  and  favorite  house,  complete  in  all  its 
arrangements,  efficient  and  liberal  in  its  management,  affording 
to  its  guests  all  wished  for  accommodations.  The  location  is  cen- 
tral, near  the  delightful  a. id  fashionable  promenades  and  terraces 
of  this  grand  old  city.  The  management  is  the  best,  and  substan- 
tial plenty  and  commendable  neatness  in  every  department  are 
characteristics  of  the  house.  The  accommodations  are  for  five 
hundred  guests,  and,  with  the  recent  enlargements  and  improve- 
ments, the  most  exacting  cannot  fail  of  satisfaction.  Carriages 
at  reasonable  rates  for  the  tour  of  the  city  and  surroundings 
may  be  had  at  the  hotel,  and  valuable  information  regarding  the 
attractions  within  and  around  the  city. 

THE    CLARENDON  HOUSE, 


corner  of  Ann  and  Garden  streets,  is  kept  as  an  auxiliary  of  the 
St.  Louis,  and  offers  especial  accommodations  to  commercial 
t|;avelers,  business  men,  and  all  others  who  may  temporarily  or 
permanently  locate  here. 

Quebec  is  the  capital  of  French  dominion  in  America  —  the 
western  Gibralter  and  key  to  the  great  St.  Lawrence  valley.  When 


120  #         «?ORTHERN    PLEASURE   TRAVEL. 


CLABEITDON  HOUSE. 

approached  by  rail  the  city  is  seen  in  the  first  promise  of  ita  unique 
beauty  from  Point  Levi.  From  the  ferry  passage,  or  by  the  river 
approach  from  above  or  below,  the  view  is  no  less  beautiful  and 
novel.  The  upper  and  lower  town  are  here  no  imaginary  divi- 
sions, but  separate  and  distinct,  the  former  crowning  the  lofty 
promontory  of  Cape  Diamond,  with  its  line  of  massive  fortifica- 
tions, and  containing  the  fine  residences  and  public  buildings, 
is  the  quarter  of  fashion ;  the  latter  extends  along  the  narrow 
strip  of  land  beneath  the  clifls  and  under  the  overhanging  walls 
to  the  suburb  of  St  Koche.  St  Peter  street  is  the  principal 
street  of  this  section,  and  along  its  line  and  branches  and  upon 
the  wharfs,  the  banks,  insurance  compames,  offices  of  merchants 
and  the  smaller  hotels  are  located.  The  city  is  one  of  the  largest 
lumber  ports  on  the  continent,  the  great  rafts  of  timber  lying  by 
acres  along  the  river  banks  and  in  the  coves.  The  city  is  sup- 
plied with  water  from  Lake  St.  Charles,  nine  miles  distant,  above 
the  falls  of  Lorette. 

GENERAL  VIEW  OF  THE  CITY. 

No  city  on  the  continent  so  impresses  the  tourist,  by  the  start- 
ling peculiarities  of  the  site  and  novelty  of  its  general  aspect,  as 
this  "ancient  capital,"  or  stamps  its  impress  so  indelibly  in  eye 


NOKTHERN    PLEASURE  TRAVEL.  '  121 

and  memory.  It  was  founded  by  Samuel  de  Champlalgn,  the 
French  geograplier,  In  1608,  on  the  site  of  the  Indian  village  of 
"Stadlcona,"  at  the  confluence  of  the  St.  Lawrence  and  St. 
Charles  rivers,  three  hundred  and  sixty  miles  from  the  mouth  of 
the  St.  Lawrence,  and  one  hundred  and  eighty  miles  below 
Montreal.  It  is  said,  with  show  of  truth,  that  the  line  of  many 
of  the  streets  follows  the  old  footpaths  of  the  Indian  village. 

The  view  from  the  ramparts  and  terraces  of  the  upper  town 
looks  down  upon  a  curious  scene  of  activity  upon  the  wide 
wooden  quays  and  winding,  narrow  streets  of  the  lower  town, 
crowded  with  vehicles  and  the  busy  populace,  dwarfed  to  lilipu- 
tian  proportions  as  viewed  from  the  height,  while  you  look  into 
blackened  throats  of  the  chimneys  and  upon  the  moss-grown 
roofs  of  the  time-browned  buildings. 

A  massive  wall  of  hewn  stone,  of  nearly  three  miles  in  length, 
and  varying,  but  everywhere  of  forbidding  height  and  thickness, 
with  projecting  bastions  and  frowning  cannon,  communicating 
with  the  outward  world  by  five  massive  gates,  encloses  the  better 
portion  of  the  upper  town.  Prescott  gate,  by  which  you  enter 
the  walls  from  the  landing,  has  been  or  is  to  be  demolished,  on 
account  of  impeding  travel.  This  gate,  and  Palace  and  Hope 
gates,  communicated  with  the  lower  town ;  St.  Louis  gate  with 
the  suburbs  in  the  direction  of  the  plains  of  Abraham;  St.  Johns 
gate  with  the  suburbs  of  St.  Roche  and  Beauport,  and  is  the  gate 
through  which  you  pass  in  the  drive  to  Montmorenci.  The  prin- 
cipal street  of  the  lower  town  is  St.  Peter  street.  In  the  upper 
town  St.  Louis  street  and  St.  Johns  street  communicate  with 
the  gates  of  same  name,  and  are  the  main  avenues  of  union  with 
the  suburbs.  The  St.  Foy  and  St.  Louis  roads  are  the  principal 
outside  ways  of  travc',  and  are  lined  with  the  residences  of  the 
gentry.  Driving  out  trough  St.  Johns  gate  over  the  St  Foy 
road,  and  returning  by  the  St.  Louis  road,  you  pass  a  net  work  of 
country  seats,  each  enclosing  grounds  of  wide  extent ;  noble  old 
manor  houses,  surrounded  with  luxuriant  forest  trees ;  elegant 
mansions  and  spacious  cottages,  shaded  avenues,  wide  views,  and 
numerous  points  made  historical  by  the  remarkable  and  tragic 
events  which  have  enwrapped  with  historic  interest  nearly  every 
rood  of  soil  in  and  about  this  wonderful  city,  where  the  rival 


122  NORTHF.BN   PLEASURE   TRAVEL. 

nations  of  the  earth  contended  for  western  supremacy,  and  the 
pioneers  of  civilization  and  heroes  in  warfare  won  deatliless 
names  for  courage  and  daring.  Mount  llermon  Cemetery, 
beautifully  laid  out,  enclosing  thirty-two  acres,  is  three  miles  out 
on  the  St.  Louis  road. 

The  form  of  the  city  is  tliat  of  a  triangle,  the  base  towards  the 
Plains  of  Abraham,  and  the  St  Lawrence  and  St.  Cliarles  upon 
either  side.  In  and  about  it  all  seems  distinctively  quauit,  curious 
and  old,  giving  the  impression  that  you  have  in  some  way  been 
set  back  a  century  in  the  path  of  progress,  and  are  looking  upon 
scenes  of  long  ago.  The  harbor  is  the  noblest  on  inland  waters. 
A  fleet  of  the  largest  vessels  ever  constructed  can  manouvre  in 
its  waters,  and  craft  of  every  description,  from  the  ocean  steam- 
ship and  monster  merchantman  to  the  shell-like  canoe  and  tiny 
sail  boat,  are  found  upon  its  waters. 

THE  CITADEL 

will,  perhaps,  prove  the  point  of  greatest  interest  to  many,  from 
the  historic  associations  connected  therewith,  and  from  the  fact 
that,  judged  by  the  older  systems  of  gunnery  and  defence,  it  was 
considered  an  impregnable  fortress.  It  covers  some  forty  acres 
of  enclosed  area,  and  is  some  threa  hundred  and  forty  feet  above 
the  river  level.  A  few  years  ago  a  loosened  rock  fell  from  this 
frowning  wall  into  the  street  below,  causing  the  loss  of  five  lives 
and  destruction  of  dwellings.  The  zigzag  passage  through 
which  you  enter  the  fortress,  between  high  and  massive  granite 
walls,  is  swept  at  every  turn  by  formidable  batteries  of  heavy 
guns.  Within  is  the  slightly  rising  parade  ground,  the  bomb- 
proof quarters,  storehouses  and  hospital  buildings,  the  numerous 
magazines,  implements,  stores,  guns  cf  every  calibre,  supplies 
and  ammun'tion,  and  the  various  combinations  and  material  for 
defense,  which  your  military  attendant  can  best  describe,  and  the 
inspection  of  which  can  but  prove  of  lasting  interest  to  all  vis- 
itors. On  the  ftjrbidding  river  walls,  and  at  each  angle  or  pos- 
sible commanding  point,  guns  ot  heavy  calibre  sweep  every 
avenue  of  approach  by  the  river;  ditches,  breastworks  and 
frowning  batteries  command  the  approaches  by  land  from  the 
famed  "  Plains  of  Abraham."    The  precipitous  bluffs,  rising  al- 


NORTHERN  PLFASURE  TRATEL.  123 

mo8t  perpendicularly  from  tho  river,  three  hundred  and  forty 
feet,  present  a  natural  barrier  which  may  he  swept  with  murder- 
ous Are,  and  the  covered  waya  of  approach  and  retreat,  the 
various  kinds  and  calibre  of  guns,  mortars,  howitzers  and  mu- 
nitions of  war  will  be  viewed  with  eager  interest. 

The  wide  outlook  from  the  river  wall  of  the  citadel  will  also 
enchain  the  attention  of  the  iisitor  who  is  tortunate  enough  to 
look,  in  the  soft  light  of  the  declining  sun,  upon  the  bold  promon- 
tories, smiling  fields,  picturesque  villages,  glittering  roofs  and 
spires,  wide  tran(|uil  waters  ai:d  distant  plains  and  forests  which 
combine  in  the  wide  and  charming  landscape. 

Across  the  river  the  view  is  directly  upon  the  settlement  ol 
Point  Levi,  where,  in  1775,  the  little  army  of  Arnold  rendez- 
voused, after  that  memorable  march  through  the  wilderness,  and 
made  the  mad  attempt  to  dislodge  the  English  forces  within  the 
city.  Modern  fortifications  of  great  strength  are  being  erected 
at  tills  point.  The  identical  spot  where  the  brave  Montgomery 
fell,  in  a  winding  sheet  of  snow  in  the  cold  December  storm,  is 
pointed  out  to  you  from  the  ciiadel  walls,  and,  in  your  ride  about 
the  city,  the  low-roofed  building  to  which  his  remains  were  con- 
veyed will  be  pointed  out,  as  also  the  street  where  Arnold's  forces 
were  defeated  and  captured.  Looking  down  the  river  the  fair 
Island  of  Orleans,  nineteen  uiiles  long  and  five  and  a  half  miles 
wide,  swells  in  flowing  curves  from  the  river  —  a  fruitful,  popu- 
lous and  beautiful  land* 

To  the  west  you  look  upon  the  Plains  of  Abraham  and  the 
brink  of  the  precipitous  bluffs  scaled  by  the  dauntless  Wolfe  and 
his  brave  soldiery  in  that  memorable  surprise  and  victory  in  1759, 
immediately  following  the  humiliating  defeat  at  Montmorenci. 
Upon  the  spot  where  the  brave  commander  fell,  a  granite  shaft 
briefly  tells  the  story  of  his  victory  and  death,  at  the  early  age  of 
thu:ty-three  years. 

DRIVES.  '      i:L 

\ 

There  would  lesm  to  be  no  end  to  the  points  of  interest  to 
which  the  tourist  may  be  taken  in  and  around  this  ancient  city, 
but  one  of  the  principal,  and  ;>ften  the  first,  is  the  eight  mile  drive 
through  St.  Johns  gate,  over  an  excellent  paved  road,  supported 


12i         NORTHERN  PLEASURE  TRAVEL. 

by  tolls,  through  the  suburb  of  St.  Roche  and  Bcauport,  to  the 
falU  at  the  mouth  of  the  small  but  rapid  Moutmureucl  River, 
kuowo  as  the 

FALLS  OF  MONTMORENCL 

As  you  cross  the  St  Charles  River,  In  leaving  the  city,  the 
vessels  In  process  of  construction  attract  attention.  In  the  build- 
ing of  substantial  and  durable  vessels  Quebec  has  gained  envia- 
ble fajne. 

The  scene  along  this  drive  is  entirely  French,  the  women  per- 
form the  labor  in  the  gardens  and  are  seen  going  to  and  returning 
from  market,  In  the  odd  market  wagons  drawn  by  Canadian 
ponies.    The  conversation  of  the  native  is  In  French. 

A  few  miles  out  you  will  be  shown  the  unique  and  ancient 
cottage,  where  Montcalm  had  his  headquarters  at  the  time  of 
tlie  celebrated  battle  with  Wolfe,  and  near  which  was  fought 
the  first  and  unsucssessful  battle  for  the  possession  of  the  key  to 
the  Canadas.  It  Is  allowed  to  remain  in  its  ancient  condition, 
and  Is  eagerly  viewed  by  the  thousands  who  pass  it  during  the 
season  of  summer  travel. 

On  either  side  of  the  road  from  this  point,  in  close  proximity 
to  the  street,  are  the  quaint  little  Canadian  cottages  set  at  every 
imaginable  angle  with  the  road,  white  as  the  snow  in  their  sum- 
mer coating  of  whitewash,  with  steep  roofs,  odd  stone  chimneys, 
and  out-door  ovens,  all  with  a  look  of  neatness  and  thrift.  We 
do  not  remember  seeing  even  an  approach  to  the  squalid  or  filthy 
in  the  whole  line  of  humble  cottages.  Reaching  the  little  Mont- 
morencl  River  you  look  about  you  on  historic  ground,  for  here 
was  fought  the  unsuccessful  and  nearly  disastrous  battle  of  Mont- 
morenci,  which  immediately  preceded  Wolfe's  final  victory  on 
the  Plains  of  Abraham. 

Registering  your  name  at  a  little  hotel,  the  landlady  of  which 
is  entirely  competent  to  the  management  of  the  establishment, 
and  paying  the  small  fee  exacted  as  owners  or  lessees  of  the  land 
through  which  you  pass,  you  follow  a  path  through  the  fields 
around  a  cove  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  and  look  across  the  iu^er- 
veuiug  gulf  upon  the  beautiful  fall  of  the  Moutmorenci,  two 


NORTHERN   PLEASUEE   TRAVEL.  125 

hundred  and  forty  feet  descent,  Into  the  St.  Lawrence,  over  the 
ftiinost  perpendicular  wall  of  the  bluff. 

If  you  huve  come  expecting  to  look  upon  a  mighty  cataract, 
falling  with  deHl'ening  roar  and  mighty  force  along  trembling 
descents,  you  will  be  disappointed;  but  it*  a  delicate  ribbon  of 
snowy  whiteness,  rolling  over  the  blul!"  and  melting  into  the 
waters  below,  ai)pearing  as  white,  pure  and  gossamer-like  as  the 
folds  of  a  bridal  veil,  has  charms  for  you,  then  this  delicate  leap 
of  the  feathery  foam  over  the  worn  rocks  of  the  almost  perpen- 
dicular blutr,  will  live  in  your  memory  a  rare  scene  ot  picture8<iue 
and  dreamy  beauty.  The  width  ot  the  main  stream  is  al)out 
fifty  feet,  widening  at  high  water  to  sixty  or  seventy  feet  On 
either  side  of  the  main  descent  small  streams  creep  down  the 
seams  of  the  rocky  wall  in  serpentine  lines  of  white  or  silvery 
brightness.  Another  view  is  to  approach  directly  to  Ihe  brinlc 
of  the  fall,  descend  a  tiight  of  steps  built  down  the  steep  wail  of 
rock,  and  stand  where  the  feathery  lines  of  foam  rush  past  you 
into  the  white  mass  below. 

On  either  side  of  the  fall  stand  the  towers  of  the  Suspension 
Bridge,  erected  several  years  ago,  and  which,  from  some  imper- 
fection, gave  way,  precipitating  a  laborer  and  his  family,  who 
were  crossing  in  a  rude  cart  at  the  time,  into  the  seething  mass 
below.  The  bridge  was  never  rebuilt,  and  the  towers  stand 
solitary  upon  the  banks. 

The  falls  are  a  favorite  place  of  resort  in  winter  for  the  Cana- 
dians, the  spray  freezing  in  a  huge  icy  cone,  down  which  a  daring 
coasting  feat  is  performed,  known  in  local  phrase  as  "toboggin- 
ing."  The  "  Natural  Steps,"  three  quarters  of  a  mile  above  the 
falls,  extend  tor  half  a  mile  along  Uie  limestone  banks  of  the 
river,  and  have  the  regularity  of  the  work  of  human  skill. 

Returning  to  tlie  city  by  the  same  or  a  ditTerent  route  you 
will  be  interested  by  the  view  presented  from  the  different 
points.  The  tin  roofs  of  the  larger  buildings  and  spires 
of  the  churches  here,  as  at  Montreal,  St.  Hyacinthe  and  the 
larger  villages,  preserve  all  the' ;  dazzling  brilliancy,  and,  as  the 
sun  falls  upon  the  domes,  spires  and  roois  of  the  city,  it  needs  no 
poetical  imagination  to  remind  you  of  the  brilliant  pictures 
of  oriental  cities.     How  this   lasting  brightness  is   retained, 


126  WORTH KRS   PLEASIRE   TRATF.L. 

whether  by  the  pepullarlty  of  climate  or  non-corrosive  qimllty  of 
the  nieUil,  we  have  nut  seen  expluiued.  Once  mure  williin  the 
city, 

DURHAM  TERRACE, 

widely  famed  as  affurding  a  view,  considered  by  many  as 
second  to  none  in  the  world,  obtained  from  within  settled  town 
limits,  will  detuin  you  for  a  time  as  you  overlook  the  broad  land- 
scape spread  below  and  described  in  tlie  outlook  liuui  the  citadel 
walls. 

THE  GOVERNOR'S  GARDEN, 

or  garden  of  the  Fortress,  is  a  point  of  interest  chiefly  for  the 
monument  (05  feet  in  height),  erected  to  the  memory  of  those  two 
brave  commanders,  Wolfe  and  Montcalm,  who,  though  in  life 
brought  in  deadly  enmity,  are  united  in  the  memories  and  honors 
of  the  future. 

The  Grand  Battery,  the  Esplanade,  the  English  Cathedral,  the 
Ursuline  Convent,  founded  early  in  the  seventeenth  century,  with 
its  flne  paintings,  the  University  of  Quebec,  the  Jail  and  Quebec 
Music  Hall,  with  the  Custom  House  and  Exchange  in  the  lower 
town,  and  the  ship  yards,  river  docks  and  manufactories  on  the 
St  Charles  river,  will  repay  a  visit  it  your  stay  admits. 

8 AVAL  UNIVERSITY 

Wfts  established  under  Catholic  auspices,  but  is  open  to  students 
of  all  creeds  and  nations,  and  a  visit  thereto  is  of  great  Interest 
to  people  of  culture.  In  the  provision  of  apparatus  and  diagrams, 
and  in  securing  the  highest  talent  in  its  instructors  in  the  wide 
range  of  sciences  which  the  student  may  study  with  best  assist- 
ance, and  in  facilities  afforded  to  acquire  superior  instruction  in 
the  learned  professions,  this  institution  is  probably  second  to 
none  in  the  States  or  Canadas.  The  laboratories,  lecture  rooms, 
cabinets  and  library  are  superior  in  accommodation  and  unusual 
in  extent.  In  the  Seminary  Chapel,  attached  to  this  University, 
are  the  celebrated  paintings  by  Champagne  and  others,  and  in 
the  French  Cathedral  are  fine  productions  of  Vandyke  and 
others,  and  tlie  interior  of  this  old  church  is  of  rare  beauty. 


NOnTHERN   PLEASURE   TRAVEL.  127 


TUB  PLAINS  OF  AISRAUAM 

will  recoivo  an  early  visit,  Invested  as  tliey  are  with  historic  In- 
terest ami  tragic  k'gends,  which  lapse  of  time  Neenis  only  to 
heigliten  and  intensity  —  the  scene  of  the  nioMt  during  nnlitary 
uianouvrcH  and  signal  victory  of  the  time.  On  the  spot  where 
ho  tell,  on  this  noted  plain,  is  seen  the  modest  monument  to  the 
memory  of  Wolfe,  and  the  distance  to  Uie  path  b>  which  the 
famed  ascent  of  hiaarmy  was  made  Is  not  great.  It  is  somewhat 
shorn  of  Its  rugged  character  by  the  leveling  effects  of  time  and 
the  elementis,  but  still  precipitous  and  forbidding. 

ISLE  OF  ORLEAFS. 

Do  not  omit  during  your  stay  to  cross  by  the  ferry  boat  to  this 
fair  Island,  and  take  the  drive  around  it,  wliich  offers  that  con- 
tinuous and  varying  circuit  of  outlying  scenery  wliich  you  can  ill 
atford  to  miss,  including  views  of  the  Falls  of  Montmorencl,  the 
Laurentlan  Mountains,  Cap-Tourment,  (1,100  feet  In  height),  the 
villages  upon  either  side  In  picturesque  surroundings,  and  the 
beauty  ot  the  fair  isle  itself,  wllh  the  broad  encircling  river  and 
the  craft  upon  Its  bosom,  and  the  grand  old  city  ot  the  north  la 
the  distance — all  memorable  points  In  the  history  of  the  olden 
times. 

CHAUDIXRE  FALLS, 

visited  via  Point  Levi,  on  the  river  of  the  same  name,  nine  miles 
below  Quebec,  have  a  descent  of  one  hundred  and  thirty  feet,  the 
river  being  four  hundred  feet  wide  at  this  point. 

''  FisBiNO.  ; ' 

Those  making  Quebec  their  headquarters  for  excursions  for 
sporting,  can  easily  reach,  by  steamer  down  the  river,  in  the 
branches  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  or  in  the  Lakes  at  no  great  distance 
from  the  city,  unequalled  opportunity  for  the  exercise  of  their 
skill  with  sure  promise  of  reward. 


128  NORTHERN   PLEASURE   TRAVEL. 

TO  THE  SAGUENAT. 

Many  tourists  and  excursionists,  after  Tiewing  the  old  northern 
capital  and  its  romantic  and  beautilul  surroundings,  will  pursue 
the  journey  still  further  down  the  great  Su  Lawrence  to  that 
wonderful  river,  the  Sagueuay,  which  enters  the  St.  Lawrence 
one  hundred  and  twenty  niiles  below  Quebec.  The  boats  of  the 
Royal  Mail  Line  leave  lor  this  trip  three  times  each  week,  com- 
mencing about  the  10th  of  July. 

On  the  way  down  the  River  the  mouth  of  the  River  St.  Anne 
will  be  passed,  oti*  the  lower  extremity  of  the  Island  of  Orleans. 
This  river  enters  the  larger  stream  through  a  bold  ravine,  and 
many  ascend  ihe  stream  for  a  short  distance  to  the  Falls  of  St. 
Anne,  which,  with  the  surroundings,  are  pleasing  and  attractive. 

Thirty-six  miles  below  Quebec  is  a  group  of  six  small  islands, 
alive  with  geese,  ducks  and  teal,  who  make  this  a  breeding  place. 

The  Quarantine  Station  at  **  Grosse  Isle,"  deserves  a  passing 
notice — a  lovely  spot  of  itself,  quietly  sleeping  in  the  great  river, 
but  a  very  charnel  house  in  the  piist,  receiving,  in  the  time  of  the 
famine  in  Ireland,  six  thousand  emigrants  in  one  huge  grave. 

The  river  widens  broader  and  broader  below  this  point  to  ten 
and  twenty  miles  as  you  sail  on,  as  upon  a  shoreless  sea,  losing 
sight  ot  either  shore.  Malbaie,  ninety  miles  below  Quebec  on 
the  north  shore,  is  a  hailing  station  and  place  of  pleasure  resort, 
Murray  Bay  being  a  fashionable  watering  place,  and  the  fine 
fishing  in  Murray  River  much  patronized.  The  river  here  is 
about  twenty  miles  wide,  and,  steaming  across  to  "  Riviere  da 
Loup,"  on  the  south  shore,  passengers  are  landed  within  six 
miles  of  Cacouna,  where  are  hotel  accommodations  of  the 
first  class,  and  lacilities  for  enjoyment  either  ol  luxurious  ease  or 
active  sporting.  The  Grand  Trunk  Railway  extends  fi-om 
Quebec  to  this  point  and  passengers  can  choose  either  the  boat 
or  rail  route. 

Continuing  down  the  St  Lawrence,  on  the  northern  shore, 
Tadousac  is  reached  at  the  mouth  of  the  Saguenay.  Here  is  a 
fine  hotel  and  famed  facilities  for  bathing,  for  seal  hunting  and 
for  fishing  in  the  tributaries  of  the  Saguenay.  Here  was  built 
the  first  permanent  stone  building  erected  on  the  continent. 


NORTHERN   PLEASURE  TRAVEL.  129 

But,  if  your  time  is  limited,  your  interest  will  'centre  upon 
your  trip  through  the  solitudes  of  the  dreary  defile  through  which 
flow  the  fathomles a  floods  of 

THE  SAGUENAT. 

This  is  the  largest  affluent  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  having  its 
source  in  Lake  St.  John,  and  a  straight  course  of  one  hundred 
and  thirty  miles  from  the  lake  to  the  St.  Lawrence.  The  upper 
half  of  its  course  is  a  series  of  fulls  and  rapids,  navigable  only  by 
canoes,  and  flowing  through  a  dense  and  almost  unknown  wilder- 
ness. 

The  navigable  portion  of  the  river  will  float  the  largest  vessels 
of  the  world,  from  its  mouth  some  sixty  miles  to  the  head  of 
navigation,  and  has  been  described  as  a  perfectly  straight,  yawn- 
ing gulf,  torn  for  the  whole  distance  in  the  grey  mica  schist 
rising  on  either  hand  in  precipitous  cliffs  whose  bases  rest  in 
unknown  depths  —  a  panorama  of  rocky  walls  and  precipices  — 
**  no  sheltered  nooks  or  coves,  no  fertile  beaches,  no  cheering 
animal  life,  only  the  cold  blooded  seal  and  the  salmon,  his  prey  — 
a  region  dark,  desolate,  cheerless  and  cold." 

The  ascent  terminates  in  Ha-Ha  Bay,  a  quiet  and  lovely  bay 
receding  from  the  river  several  miles,  a  cheerful  village,  animal 
life,  and  facilities  for  amusement  are  here  found,  a  change  most 
welcome  from  the  sombre  desolation  of  the  ascent  Lake  St  John, 
in  which  the  river  has  its  source,  receives  the  waters  of  eleven 
large  rivers,  and  innumerable  smaller  streams,  from  the  vast 
water-shed  surrounding  it,  but  discharges  all  its  waters  through 
this  wonderful  stream. 

Statue  Point  is  a  noted  gem  of  scenery  on  the  river,  a  per- 
pendicular rock  below  Ha-Ha  Bay,  at  the  termination  of  a 
great  plateau,  three  hundred  feet  wide  and  six  hundred  feet  in 
height,  with  sides  smooth  as  though  polished  by  a  skillful  work- 
man. Six  miles  above  the  Bay  of  St  Johns  are  the  great  ^nsinU 
of  attraction  on  the  river^ 

CAPE  ETERNITY  AND  TRINrrY%OCK, 

collossal  promontories  of  sheer  descent,  at  whose  very  base  the 
9 


1 30  NORTHERN    PLEASURE   TRAVELt 

largest  ships  may  ride  in  the  immense  depth  of  waters ;  sights 
never  to  be  forgotten — bold,  barren,  forbidding  and  awful.  The 
discharge  of  a  cannon  on  shipboard  between  these  bare  walls  of 
rock,  is  said  to  crash  back  in  echoes  which  no  one  could  wish  to 
have  repeated,  one  such  sensation  sufficing  for  a  lifetime. 

Reluming  to  Tadousac,  you  can  return  by  boat  to  Quebec,  or 
by  rail  from  Riviere  du  Loup  to  Point  Levi,  there  connecting 
with  the  system  of  railways  threading  every  portion  of  the  Can- 
adas  and  New  England. 

THE  SCENERY  OF  CENTRAL  AND  NORTHERN  VER- 
MONT, WITH  ROUTES  OF  TJtAVEL. 

The  tourist  may  well  supplement  his  visit  to  the  mountains  and 
the  Canadian  cities — or  profitably  make  a  separate  trip^by 
visiting  the  wholesome  and  enchanting  region  of  central  and 
northern  Vermont,  Lakes  Memphremagog  and  Willoughby  and 
their  surroundings  being  points  which  none  should  omit  seeing.  . 

The  contrast  between  the  hills  of  Vermont  and  New  Hampshire 
are  plainly  noticeable  to  the  most  careless  observer ;  the  name  of 
the  Green  Mountains  is  no  misnomer,  and  applies  with  equal 
propriety  to  the  green  hills  on  every  hand.  You  look  up  their 
verdant  slopes,  green  to  the  summits,  furnishing  rich  pasturage 
on  the  steep  sides. 

The  streams  and  rivers  also  differ*  the  mountain  cascades, 
great  rivers  and  many  lakes  are  wanting,  but  the  hillsides  are 
verdant  from  innumerable  springs  and  diminutive  streams.  The 
mountainous  State  boasts  no  great  river  within  its  bounds — the 
lakes  are  mostly  upon  its  borders — but  is  green  with  the  gentle 
sweating  springs  on  a  thousand  hillsides,  the  murmur  of  brooks 
innumerable,  and  the  smaller  rivers  that  thread  the  defile'  .  its 
broken  surface. 

A  writer  has  aptly  said  that  he  knew  not  "whether  to  wonder 
most  that  so  broken  a  country  is  so  fertile,  or  so  fertile  a  country 
is  so  broken." 

From  Wells  R|p:B  northward  the  route  of  the  Fassumpsic 
River  Railroad  is  up  the  valley  of  the  Connecticut  River,  which 
it  leaves  at  Babk<t  j  thence  following  the  valley  of  the  winding 


NORTHERN  PLEASURE  TRAVEL.  131 

and  rapid  Passumpsic  which,  with  the  adjacent  country,  all  who 
have  an  eye  for  the  picturesque  and  pastoral,  iu  a  succession  of 
flying  landscapes,  will  view  with  continual  pleasure.  Pullmaa 
palace  sleeping  cars  are  run,  and  one  can  sup  in  Boston,  take  a 
berth  in  a  sleeping  car,  and  rise  to  a  breakfast  of  lake  trout  at 
Newport  in  the  morning. 

St.  Johnsbury,  twenty  miles -srom  Wells  River,  is  one  of  the 
finest  of  Vermont  towns,  noted  for  its  thrift,  enterprise,  romantic 
situation,  and  importance  as  a  manufacturing  centre.  At  this 
point  the  Portland  and  Ogdensburg  Railroad  intersects  the 
Passumpsic  line.  The  Vermont  division  of  this  new  line  is 
already  running  westward  and  eastward,  and  passengers  may  leave 
St.  Johnsbury  for  Mount  Mansfield  by  this  new  route,  going  by 
rail  to  Morrisville,  thence  by  stage  or  conveyance  to  Stowe  and 
Mount  Mansfield.  The  views  along  the  line  in  some  portions  are 
strikingly  bold  and  beautiful,  the  profile  of  "Old  Mansfield"  being 
peculiarly  striking  in  its  resemblance  to  the  facial  outline  as  seen 
from  this  road — a  colossal  portrait,  rivaling  in  its  lines,  not  of 
inches  but  of  miles  in  extent,  all  other  representations  of  the 
human  face  on  the  broad  earth. 

A  stay  of  a  day  at  St.  Johnsbury  will  be  a  day  well  spent,  and 
the  Scale  Works  of  the  Messrs.  Fairbanks  are  the  feature  of  the 
town.  The  extensive  manufactfire  of  every  class  of  scales,  from 
the  immense  dock  and  railroad  scale  to  the  tiny  balance  of  the 
banker,  all  equally  nice  in  adjustment,  and  correct  in  plan  of 
construction,  is  here  carried  on  by  skilled  workmen,  directed  by 
indomitable  energy,  and  true  business  tact  and  honor.  It  would 
seem  strange  that  the  iron  of  Missouri  and  Pennsylvania  should 
be  sent  to  this  point,  far  up  among  the  hills,  to  be  fashioned  for 
use  by  Yankee  workmen,  and  returned  to  weigh  the  virgin  ore ; 
but  such  is  the  case,  and  it  is  one  of  the  curious  facts  in  manu- 
facture and  exchange.  This  is  the  shire  town  of  Caledonia 
county,  it  is  the  important  centre  of  northwestern  Vermont,  has 
fine  county  and  school  building.%  beautiful  natural  surroundings, 
and  an  industrious  and  fast  increasing  population.  The  prospec- 
tive increase  of  railroad  facilities  by  the  assured  completion  of 
the  railway  to  Portland,  through  the  heart  of  the  White  Moun- 
tains, cannot  fail  to  add  to  its  prosperity  and  importance. 


132  NORTHERN  PLEASURE  TRAVEL. 

Continuing  nortliward  from  St  Jolinsbury,  just  before  reaching 
Lyndon,  you  will  notice  one  of  tliose  cliai-ming  waterfalls  which 
so  often  break  the  flow  of  the  rapid  Passumpsic  River.  At  Lyn- 
don ville  are  the  repair  and  construction  shops  of  tliis  important 
railway  line,  and  a  growing  country  town.  West  Burke,  thirty- 
seven  miles  from  Wells  River,  is  the  station  from  which  passen- 
gers leave  by  stage  line  for  Lake  Willoughby.  Burke  Mountain, 
a  bold  elevation  of  2,000  feet,  will  be  observed  to  the  right  as  you 
approuch  this  station,  and  a  good  view  of  the  eastern  wall  of 
Lake  Willougliby  is  had  as  you  near  this  point. 

WILLOUGHBY  LAKE. 

The  hotel  at  this  lake  is  six  miles  distant  from  the  West  Burke 
Station;  conveyance  may  be  had  at  the  hotel  at  this  point  for  the 
lake,  and  no  doubt  a  regular  stage  line  will  be  run  in  the  season 
of  pleasure  travel.  This  wonderful  sheet  of  water  lies  between 
two  lofty  mountain  walls,  evidently  once  united,  but  torn  asunder 
by  some  terrible  convulsion  of  nature  in  remote  ages.  The  sur- 
face of  the  lake  is  nearly  twelve  hundred  feet  above  sea  level,  and 
the  mountain  walls  tower  on  either  side  to  the  height  of  nearly 
two  thousand  feet  above  the  lake;  under  these  frowning  walls  on 
the  narrow  bank  threads  the  roadway.  The  lake  lies  in  the  town 
of  Westmore,  iu  the  form  of  a  crescent,  is  from  a  half  mile  to  two 
miles  wide  and  six  miles  long,  in  some  portions  of  unknown 
depth,  soundings  of  six  hundred  feet  reaching  no  bottom.  It 
discharges  through  the  outlet  into  the  St.  Francis  Rivei*,  and 
thence  to  the  St.  Lawrence,  yet  lies  so  near  the  dividing  ridge 
between  the  St.  Lawrence  and  Long  Island  Sound,  that  small 
ponds  and  streams  near  by  flow  into  the  Connecticut  and  down 
the  long  slope  of  that  valley  to  the  sound. 

Mount  Willoughby  or  Annanance,  the  eastern  wall  is  nearly 
two  thousand  feet  in  height  and  Mount  Hor,  on  the  western  side, 
is  of  somewhat  less  elevation.  The  sides  of  Mount  Willoughby 
rise  in  steep  ascent  from  the  carriage  roadway  a  thousand  feet, 
a  mass  of  huge  irregular  rocks  crowned  by  an  upright  wall  of 
granite,  six  hundred  feet  high,  and  extending  thus  for  nearly  two 
miles  along  the  shore ;  from  the  summit  of  this  height  you  may 
look  to  the  southeast  upon  the  White  and  Franconia  mountains, 


NORTHERN   PLEASURE   TRAVEL.  133 

westward  to  the  bold  peaks  and  ranges  of  the  Green  Mountains, 
northward  into  the  Canadas,  and  southward  along  the  wide  valley 
between  the  great  mountain  ranges. 

At  one  point  from  this  height  you  can  look  down,  a  sheer 
descent  of  2,500  feet,  upon  the  pure,  transparent  waters  of  tlie 
lake  below,  visible  in  its  every  outline  and  feature.  The  ascent 
is  a  two-mile  climb  through  the  forest  from  the  hotel ;  but  the 
lover  of  nature  will  be  amply  repaid  for  the  toil. 

The  Willoughby  Lake  House  Is  a  commodious  hotel  accom- 
modating a  hundred  guests,  finely  situated,  overlooking  the  lake 
to  the  northward.  Teams  may  be*  had  at  this  hotel  for  the  grand 
excursions  in  the  vicinity.  The  drive  to  Newark  Hill,  a  favor- 
ite point  of  lookout,  and  visits  to  the  "Flower  Garden,"  the 
delight  of  botanists,  the  "  Devil's  Den,"  '*  The  Cascade,"  "  Crys- 
tal Lake"  and  "The  Flumes,"  are  j^mong  the  noticeable  attrac- 
tions of  this  wild  spot.  Trout  flshlug  in  the  mount  lin  streams 
and  ponds  of  the  vicinity,  and  boating  and  fishing  ou  the  lake, 
will  be  indulged  in  by  all  whose  time  admits.  No  visitor  to  this 
shadowed  lake  will  regret  the  time  or  expense  of  his  trip.  Par- 
don this  digression,  reader.  We  will  now  continue  by  rail  from 
West  Burke  northward. 

Irasburg,  a  favorite  resort  for  those  loving  the  quiet  of  the 
pretty  village,  near  the  Lowell  Mountains,  is  reached  by  staging 
from  Barton's  Landing,  three  and  one-half  miles,  and,  continuing 
on,  at  sixty  five  miles  north  of  Wells  River  the  pretty  village  of 
Newport  comes  into  view,  the  inviting  exterior  of  the  Memphre- 
magog  House,  close  by  the  railroad  station  gladdens,  the  eyes  of 
tired  travelers,  and  the  calm  waters  of  Lake  Memphremagog, 
with  the  fine  steamer  at  the  landing,  give  promise  of  enjoyment 
and  comfort  in  prospect. 

--:-t'.r  ':,    NEWPORT  ^  /       L-"^t  ■    ''■'''' 

is  the  station  from  which  the  attractions  of  the  lake  are  reached, 
and  is  a  cheery,  pleasant  village  in  the  midst  of  grand  and  varied 
scenery,  where  the  summer  heats  are  tempered  by  the  cool  breeze 
from  the  placid  lake.  Its  older  inhabitants  may  perhaps  "  a  tale 
unfold "  of  smuggling  in  the  oldeu  time,  but,  since  the  yiliage 


134  NORTHERN  PLEASURE  TRATEL, 

has  become  important  as  a  railway  and  business  centre  the  old 
order  of  things  has  passed  awa*  and  "  ways  that  are  vain  "  no 
longer  engage  the  attention  of  tne  busy  populace. 

From  the  slight  eminence,  to  the  south  of  the  village,  known 
as  Prospect  Hill,  you  may  overlook  the  country  for  miles  in  every 
direction.  In  the  early  morning  or  at  close  of  day  the  view  of 
the  lake  with  its  irregular  outline,  many  islands  and  the  changing 
hues  imparted  by  the  rising  or  setting  sun,  is  peculiarly  fine  from 
this  elevation.  Jay's  Peak,  Willoughby  Mountain  and  the  high 
summits  of  Mount  Orford,  Mount  Elephantis  and  Owl's  Head  are 
all  seen  to  advantage. 

THB  MEMPFBEMAGOG  H0U8S 

Is  a  fine,  spacious  and  well  kept  hotel,  within  a  stone's  throw  of 
the  railway  station  and  the  steamboat  landing,  on  the  shores  of 
the  lake.  It  is  of  five  stories,  will  accommodate  four  hundred 
guests,  and  the  outlook  from  its  extensive  balconies  towards  the 
lake,  upon  the  peak  of  Owl's  Head,  which  looms  into  view,  and 
the  surrounding  scenery,  is  attractive  to  the  visitor  from  the 
dust,  heat  and  noise  of  the  crowded  city,  and  a  promenade  in 
the  quiet  evening  hour  along  its  ample  verandas  is  one  of  the 
delights  of  summer  travel.  The  attractive  exterior  of  the  house 
is  well  represented  in  the  engraving,  and  all  the  details  of 
furnishing  and  management  are  such  as  to  secure  sub- 
stantial comfort  and  pleasure  to  guests.  Billiard  and  bowling 
alleys  for  ladies  and  gentlemen  are  connected  with  the  house, 
which  is  managed  by  W.  F.  Bowman,  Esq.,  a  gentlemanly  and 
experienced  landlord.  Sail  and  row-boats  are  furnished  by  the 
landlord  at  any  timo  to  suit  the  wants  and  tastes  of  excursionists 
or  sportsmen,  and  for  the  fine  drives  hereabouts  good  teams  may 
be  had.  The  drive  to  the  summit  of  Jay's  Peak,  in  the  towns  of 
Westfleld  and  Jay,  thirteen  miles  distant,  is  one  which  all  should 
take.  There  is  a  carriage  road  to  the  summit,  and  from  the  lofty 
peak  a  combination  of  scenery,  the  most  extensive  and  varied  to 
be  had  in  this  whole  section.  A  list  of  drives,  with  distances,  is 
conspicuously  placed  in  the  hotel.  The  village  of  Stanstead, 
just  over  the  Canada  line,  is  often  visited,  and  Clyde  and  Coven- 


KORTUERN  PLEA8UBE  TRAVEL. 


135 


try  Falls  are  within  e<asy  driving  distance.     Despite  all  other 
attractions  your  greatest  interest  will  centre  in  the  . 


BOAT  TRIP  DOWN  THB  LAKE, 

Lake  Memphremagog,  two-thirds  of  which  lies  in  Canadian 
Dominions,  is  the  charming  rival  of  Lake  George,  which  it 
resembles  In  conformation.  Its  length  is  thirty  miles,  the  breadth 
about  two  miles,  widening  in  some  portions  to  six  miles.  The 
bold,  rockbound  shores,  numerous  wooded  islands,  the  shadowing 


136  irOKTHlRN    PLEASURE  TRAVEL. 

peaks  of  lofty  mountains,  rising,  In  some  cases,  to  3,000  feet  in 
height,  with  slopes  of  luxurious  forest  and  greenest  verdure,  serve 
but  to  heighten  the  charm  of  this  "  Beautiful  Water,"  supplied 
from  the  pure  cold  strea.ws  of  the  surrounding  mountains. 

The  new  staunch  iron  steamer  '*  Lady  of  the  Lake,"  one 
hundred  and  seventy  feet  In  length,  and  a  model  of  neatness  and 
convenience,  leaves  the  landing  near  the  hotel  and  railway  depot 
each  morning  at  about  eight  o'clock,  also  after  dinner  for  the 
second  trip,  the  run  being  made  in  three  hours  each  way. 
Her  commander,  Capt.  Fogg,  has  for  a  lifetime  known  every 
point  upon  these  waters,  and  can  give  valuable  information  -or 
amuse  you  with  stories  and  legends  innumerable,  pertaining  to 
the  old  time  history  of  this  wild  and  secluded  region.  The  zigzag 
course  of  the  steamer  gives  you  a  trip  of  nearly  fifty  miles  sailing 
Irom  Newport  to  the  village  at  the  northern  outlet — Magog — a 
Canadian  hamlet  with  a  background  of  forest  extending  to  Mount 
Orford. 

Space  will  forbid  the  attempt  even  to  notice  all  the  places  and 
objects  of  interest  around  this  lovely  sheet  of  water,  lying  in  its 
narrow,  deep  and  shadowed  basin ;  but  the  most  prominent  can- 
not be  passed  by  without  mention,  and  all  are  worthy  of  elaborate 
notice.  Passing  "  Indian  Point,"  an  old  camping  gronnd  of  the 
red  man,  the  "  Twin  Sisters" — two  wooded  islands — "  Province 
Island,"  intersected  by  the  boundary  line  between  Canada  and 
the  United  States,  the  largest  of  some  twenty  islands  of  the  lake, 
is  passed,  containing  about  one  hundred  acres,  and  aflfording  rich 
pasturage  for  stock.  From  near  this  island  you  have  a  view  of 
Willoughby  Gorge  In  the  far  distance. 

It  will  be  observed  that  the  eastern  shores  are  fertile  and 
sparsely  populated  with  a  farming  community;  the  western  shore 
is  more  bold  and  abrupt,  rising,  in  many  places  in  frowning  bluffs 
of  several  hundred  feet  elevation.  Yankees  observe  with  pleasure 
the  contrast  between  the  American  and  Canadian  portions  of  the 
shores,  with  inferences  in  favor  of  republican  government  as  a 
stimulus  to  thrift.  The  small  Canadian  village  of  Cedarville,  in 
Stanstead,  is  on  the  eastern  side,  so  named  from  the  surrounding 
cedar  groves,  and  beyond  is  Fitch's  Bay  with  the  island  at  its 
euti'ance.    You  now  approach  the  bold  peak  of 


MORTHERN   PLEASURE   TRAVEL. 


187 


OWL*8  HEAD, 

a  name  applied  to  many  sunnmits  in  the  mountains,  with  what 
show  of  propriety  you  must  judge.  This  is  a  regular  coae-like 
summit    Leaving: 


BOUND  ISLAND, 


138  NORTHERN   PLEASURE   TRAVEL. 

a  cedar  crowned  swell  of  rock-bound  land,  rising  from  the  lako 
about  a  half  mile  from  the  base  of  Owl's  Head,  which  yon  are 
now  approaching,  tlu;  boat  lands  you  in  r.  few  minutes  at  the 
wharf  of  that  land-locked  and  mountain-shadowed  hotel,  the 
Nountain  Tloune.  The  view  of  the  lake  from  this  hotel  Is 
splendid,  and  the  facilities  for  fishing  and  sporting  attract  that 
class  of  tourists  in  largo  numbers.  In  the  deep  waters  of  the 
lake,  lying  about  this  secluded  retreat,  are  caught  those  monster 
lake  trout  which  fishermen  delight  to  entice  from  their  cool 
retreats.  We  will  not  speak  of  the  size  and  weight  of  the  fish, 
lest  you  be  Incredulous ;  but  try  for  yourself  and  your  reward 
will  be  ample.  Should  you,  either  now  or  on  your  return,  tarry 
here  to  make  the  ascent  of  Owl's  Head,  by  climbing  tlie  wooded 
path  from  the  hotel,  you  will  find  yourself  alone  with  nature,  the 
birds  and  the  brooks  on  this  wild  mountain  slope;  but  the  guide 
will  point  out  prominent  way  marks  in  "Shelter  Rock,"  "Heigh 
Rock,"  "Fern  Hollow,"  "Fern  Rock,"  "Birch  Rock,"  and  you 
will  pass  through  the  narrow  "Toll-gate,"  between  two  great 
rocks,  and  from  "Chair  Rock"  will  get  an  outlook  upon  the  great 
lake  below.  Climbing  "  Breakneck  Stairs  "  and  ascending  the 
*•  Winding  Staircase,"  a  short  pull  carries  you  to  the  summit, 
two  thousand  seven  hundred  and  filty  feet  above  sea  level.  The 
prospect  is  grand  and  extensive,  extending  with  favorable 
weather  to  Montreal  and  the  great  St.  Lawrence  River,  over  the 
whole  extent  of  the  lake  and  the  cluster  of  lakes,  ponds  and 
system  of  rivers,  with  the  ranges,  peaks  and  villages  around  the 
wide  sweep  of  view.  The  Freemasons  from  Stanstead  hold 
lodge  meeting  on  the  24th  day  of  June  each  year  among  the 
peaks  of  this  summit. 

Eastward  from  the  Mountain  House,  near  the  eastern  shore.  Is 
Skinner's  Island,  and  on  Its  northeastern  shore  Is  Skinner's 
Cave,  a  narrow  den  In  the  rock,  some  thirty  feet  deep.    The 

legend  of  Uriah  Sklniier,  the  bold  "  Smuggler  of  Magog," 

« 

"  With  whiskers  remarkably  bushy  and  black, 

With  fists  which  might  give  a  moat  terrible  thwack,  * 

•       «       *       «       *       *       «       •       •       *       *' 

With  a  huge  dagger  stuck  in  the  belt  round  his  waist, 
And  five  or  six  pistols  beside  it  placed/' 


NORTHERN   PLEASURE   TRAVSIi. 


139 


8KIXI7£B'S  cave, 

is  too  long  for  our  pages,  but  'tis  said  he  took  refuge  from  pursuit 
in  tills  cave  and  there  perished,  hence  the  name  of  "  Skinnel**8 
C&ve"  and  grave,  .      • 

Steaming  northward  from  this  point  the  great  mountains  rear 
their  huge  masses  into  view.  Owl's  Head,  Sugar  Loaf,  or  Mount 
Elephantis,  the  Hog's  Hack,  and,  away  in  the  distance.  Jay's 
Peak.  Meanwhile,  Long  Island,  with  its  bold  shores,  has  been 
passed,  and  on  its  southern  line  is  the  famous 


BALANCE  BOCK, 

a  huge  granite  mass,  balanced  upon  a  pomt  close  to  the  water's 
edge,  as  shown  in  the  engraving,  an  object  of  interest  to  the 
learned  and  the  curious.  The  eastern  shores  are  now  abrupt, 
and  residences  of  wealthy  Canadians  crown  the  heights.  Molson, 
the  Montreal  banker,  has  here  his  summer  residence,  and  is 
the  proprietor  of  an  island  near  the  eastern  shore. 

Georgeville  is  a  place  of  some  importance,  where  stop  Is  made 
for  the  mails,  and  you  steam  across  to  the  western  shore  to 
Knowlton's  Landing.  Stages  run  from  this  point  to  Waterloo, 
on  the  Stanstead  and  Chambly  Hailroad,  where  cars  are  taken  for 


140 


NORTHERN   PLEASURE   TRAVEL. 


BALANCK  BOCK. 


Montreal  and  intermediate  points.  Steaming  on  from  tliis  land- 
ing, and  rounding  tiie  bold,  rocky  promontory  of  Gibraltar  Point, 
you  have  a  wide  view,  with 


MOUNT  OBFOBD 


MORTUEUN    PLEASURE   TRAVEL.  141 

in  the  distance  — the  hlj^hest  summit  of  Lower  Cunathi,  3,300  feet 
elevation,  distant  live  miles  from  tlie  vilia^e  of  Magog,  and  may 
tH)  ascuuUuU  by  caii iugo  roadway  to  Lh«  summit. 

MAGOG. 

or  Outlet  Village,  is  the  terminal  point  of  the  trip  —  a  true 
Canadian  settliunent.  The  Parkas  lloiise  will  allbnl  you  en- 
tertairunent,  but  good  dinners  may  be  obtained  on  the  boat. 
Passengers  can  here  take  the  stage  line  to  Sherbrooke,  on  the 
Grand  Trunk  Kailway,  (a  ride  of  sixteen  miles  around  Mount 
Orford,)  or  to  Waterloo,  (tweuty-one  miles,)  ou  the  bUuUbrd  aud 
Cbambly  liailroad. 

But  most  of  those  who  came  with  us  will  make  the  return  trio 
to  Newport,  viewing  the  fine  scenery  along  the  shores  in  reverse 
order,  and  when  once  again  sheltered  at  the  Meniphremagog 
House,  with  spirit  soothed  and  fancy  charmed,  you  feel  that  it  has 
been  a  red-letter  day  in  your  life. 

Many  private  parties  have  boats  and  yachts  on  the  lake ;  that  of 
Sir  Hugli  Allan  was  accidentally  sunk  some  six  miles  from  New- 
port a  few  months  since.  Sail  and  row  boats  are  provided  at 
New^jort  lor  all  wishing  to  take  excursions  u[)ou  the  lake. 

From  Newport  diverges  the  Southeastern  Railroad  line  to  Mon- 
treal, oi)ened  for  travel  during  thfe  winter  of  1872-3,  affording  to 
through  passengers  from  the  Connecticut  valley,  especially  from 
it<«  northern  portion  and  from  the  White  Mountains,  a  short  and 
direct  route  to  the  Canadian  metropolis.  This  route  is  along  the 
"Valley  of  the  Clyde  River  via  Richford,  West  Farnham  and  St. 
Johns  to  Montreal,  through  the  Victoria  Bridge.  Trains  are 
now  run  in  connection  with  the  Connecticut  and  Passumpsic 
Express  Line  (no  change  of  cars),  and  afford  all  the  accommoda- 
tions and  improvements  demanded  by  first-class  through  travel. 
The  old  Passumpsic  line  northward  runs  along  the  Massawippi 
valley,  by  the  shores  of  Massawippi  Lake,  uniting  at  Sherbrooke 
with  the  Grand  Trunk  line  for  Montreal,  Quebec  and  interme- 
diate points. 

The  localities  and  scenes  most  viaited  by  tourists  and  parties  in 
pursuit  oi  health  and  pleasure,  lying  along  the  line  of 


142         NORTHERN  PLEASURE  TRAVEL. 
THE  VERMONT  CENTRAL  RAILWAY, 

will  be  opened  to  easy  and  direct  communication  with  the  moun- 
tain region  by  the  new  line  of  road,  now  nearly  completed,  and 
which  it  is  contemplated  to  open  for  travel  the  present  summer, 
extending  from  ^ 

WELLS  RIVER  TO  MONTPELIEB,  \ 

a  distance  of  thirty-eiglit  miles.  This  route  gives  railway  facili- 
ties to  a  section  of  country  heretofore  destitute,  passes  through 
a  fertile  region  rich  in  agricultural  products  and  lumber,  landing 
the  passenger  in  the  heart  of  the  State,  at  the  old  capital  town  of 
Moutpelier. 

On  this  new  route  the  town  of  Marshfleld  is  one  of  import- 
ance, the  village  being  distant  about  a  mile  from  the  station. 
Here  are  valuable  water-powers  utilized  for  lumber  manufacture. 
Many  fine  trout  ponds  are  within  short  distances,  and  "  Molly's 
Falls,"  a  short  distance  from  the  village,  is  a  fine  descent  of  water 
of  some  two  hundred  feet  fall,  with  attractive  surrounding  scen- 
ery.   It  will  be  a  place  ot  resort  in  the  warm  season. 

MONTPELIER. 

Tliis  fine  old  New  England  capital,  with  its  substantial  public 
buildings,  fine  location  in  the  valley  of  the  Winooski  River,  sur- 
rounded by  hills,  from  which  you  look  upon  wide  landscapes 
peculiar  to  the  Mountain  Commonwealth,  should  be  visited  by 
all.  The  Capitol  building  is  a  fine  granite  structure  of  elaborMe 
architecture  and  pleasing  design.  The  rooms  where  are  col- 
lected the  geological  specimens  from  every  section  of  the  State, 
and  documents  and  articles,  ancient,  curious  and  rare,  relating  to 
the  history  of  the  State,  should  be  visited  by  all  whose  time  ad- 
mits. There  are  three  insurance  companies,  two  national  banks, 
manufacturing  in  considerable  variety,  and  the  church  edifices 
are  among  the  finest  in  the  state.  The  Vermont  Central  Rail- 
road does  not  enter  the  village,  but  is  reached  by  a  branch  road 
of  one  and  one-half  miles  in  length.  At  the  Pavilion  Rouse^ 
the  sojourner  will  find  good  cheer  and  entertainment,  G,  R. 
Aldrich,  Esq.,  being  the  competent  and  obUging  landlord. 


NORTHERN  PLEASURE  TRAVEL.         143 

The  drives  in  the  vicinity  are  charming.  From  one  point  of 
view,  some  five  miles  from  tlie  villa'^e,  the  line  of  the  Winoaski 
valley  opens  a  fine  picture  of  mountain  ranges  and  smiling  val- 
leys, the  charm  of  which  time  only  will  dispel.  'Leaving  the 
capital  and  passing  northward  the  central  line  runs  along  the 

valley  of  the  Winooski  and 

*  '  * 

WATERBURY, 

the  Mount  Mansfield  stage  station  of  this  road  is  reached — a 
fine  summer  resort  in  the  wide  valley,  lying  among  the  great  hills 
and  mountains.  Drives  from  here  to  the  natural  bridge  at  Bolton 
Falls,  three  miles,  and  to  Camel's  Hump,  eight  miles,  are 
attractive. 

The  Waterbury  Hotel  is  an  "  hostelrie "  of  good  repute  and 
deserved  popularity,  over  which  the  proprietor  presides  by  right 
of  his  ability  to  do  what  many  cannot,  that  is  to  "  keep  a  hotel." 
The  accommodations  are  for  one  hundred  guests  and  the  house 
afl'ord?  a  fine  place  of  resort  for  pleasure  seekers. 

The  trip  from  Waterbury  to  the  pleasant  village  of 

STOWE, 

ten  miles  distant,  at  the  base  of  Mount  Mansfield,  is  made  by 
staging  in  the  royal  style  of  the  olden  time,  in  coaches  drawn  by 
six  white  horses.  This  pleasant  village  is  flanked  by  mountains, 
and  here  visitors  are  provided  with  teams,  guides  and  all  needful 
help  tor  the  ascent.    {Situated  in  this  pleasant  locality  is 

THE  MOUNT  MANSFIELD   HOUSE, 

calculated  to  accommo'^ate  four  hundred  guests,  it  is  spacious 
and  commodious  in  all  its  arrangements  and  appointments  and 
the  stables  and  alleys  connected  are  on  a  liberal  scale.  The 
proprietors  are  not  to"  be  outdone  in  their  attentions  to  guests. 
N.  P.  Keeler,  Esq.,  is  the  experienced  and  popular  manager. 

The  walks  and  drives  cannot  be  surpassed.  A  short  distance 
from  the  hotel,  Sunset  Hill  commands  a  fine  view  of  the  surround- 
ing country.    The  drives  to  "  Smuggler's  Notch, "  the  most  wild 


144 


NORTHERN   PLEASURE   TRAVEL. 


THE  MOUNT  MANSFIELD  HOUSE. 

and  romantic  mountain  gorge  in  New  England,  eight  miles ;  Bing- 
ham's Falls,  five  miles ;  Moss  Glen  Falls,  three  and  one-half  miles ; 
Gold  Brook,  three  miles ;  West  Hill,  two  miles ;  Morrisville  Falls 
and  Johnson's  Falls,  eight  and  twelve  miles  respectively,  are  a 
series  of  excursions  which  can  but  afibrd  pleasure  to  patrons  of 
this  house.  A  carriage  road  has  been  constructed  to  the  summit 
of  Mount  Mansfield,  eight  miles  distant,  on  which  is  an  excellent 
hotel,  making  the  most  delightful  mountain  trip  possible.  ;. 

The  trip,  with  its  pleasmg  and  profitable  ascent  of  

MOUNT  MANSFIELD,       .    ,  . 


is  no  doubt  the  feature  and  main  object  of  your  visit  here.  The 
bold  summits  of  this  noble  eminence  are  thought  to  represent  in 
their  peculiar  outline  the  features  of  the  human  face,  looking  up- 
ward forever  from  the  firm  base  of  the  "everlasting  hills.  The 
"forehead,"  "nose"  and  "chin"  being  represented  by  separate 
elevations  of  the  great  mass.  The  chin  is  the  most  prominent, 
being  4,350  feet  above  sea  level,  the  forehead  only  3,83D  feet, 
while  the  nose  rises  one  hundred  and  sixty  feet  above  the  fore- 


CIIKST  OF   MOUNT   MA^'8FIELD. 


146  NORTHEUN    TLEASURK    TRAVEL. 

liead,  perhaps  the  only  nose  upon  which  an  "  extra"  inch  would 
be  hardly  noticeable. 

The  road  to  the  base  of  the  mountain  is  along  a  valley,  follow- 
ing a  small  stream,  and  for  the  first  half  of  the  ascdnt  winds 
through  a  thick,  shading  forest,  finally  emerging  into  the  open 
space,  formerly  the  terminus  of  the  carriage  road  at  the  half-way 
house.    A  spring  here  gives  out,  from  sources  of  supply  in  the 
heart  of  the  great  mountain,  a  bountiful  flow  of  the  purest  water. 
The  outlook  from  this  point  gives  a  charming  view  of  the  great 
valley;  but  you  press  on  to  the  summit,  stopping  to  look  into 
the  depths  of  that  wild  and  serpentine  mountain  gorge,  "Smug- 
glers Notch,"  once  frequented  by  that  ent^Tprlsing  but  peculiar 
class,  formerly  active  along  the  border,  remarkable  for  their  love 
of  seclusion.    The  Summit  House  is  the  hotel,  under  the  western 
side  of  the  nose,  affording  substantial  comfort  to  one  hundred 
gue?ts.    Clirabing  to  the   point  of  the  nose,  a  rocky  knob  of 
Cromwellian  proportions  in  this  immense  portrait,  you  overlook 
a  reach  of  view  scarcely  surpassed  in  grandeur  and  sublimity. 
Lake  Champlain  and  the  Adirondacks,  the  St.  Lawrence  valley, 
Montreal  and  the  mountains  of  Canada,  and  around  Lake  Mem- 
phremagog,  the  White  and  Fraconia  mountains  to  the  eastward, 
and  the  broken  ranges  of  hills  and  mountains  and  silver  lines  of 
rivers  within  the  State.    Your  guide  will  duly  explain  to  you  the 
many  localities,  and  the  scientific  will  be  interested  in  the  "  tes- 
timony of  the  rocks "  on  these  high  peaks,  giving  evidence  of 
former  submergence. 

Reluctantly  leaving  this  magnificent  prospect  and  returning  to 
the  comforts  of  the  Mansfield  House,  at  Stowe,  and  from  theuce, 
alter  resting,  to  the  railroad  at  Waterbury,  you  continue  the  jour- 
ney northward.  Cars  may  be  left  at  Ridley's  station,  where  convey- 
ance can  be  had  for  "  Camel's  Hump,"  only  six  miles  distant,  so 
named  from  the  peculiar  outline  of  its  form  seen  from  a  distance ; 
and,  next  to  Mansfield,  is  the  noticeable  summit  of  the  State,  the 
more  so  from  its  lone  position,  not  dwarfed  or  belittled  by  sur- 
rounding heights.  Passing  through  the  wild  scenery  from  this 
point  yon  reach  a  more  level  country  as  you  near  the  junction  at 
Essex,  catching  on  the  way  glimpses  of  the  great  mountains  in 
the  distance  and  fair  valleys  and  green  slopes  on  either  hand. 


NORTHERS  PLB\SURE:  TRAVEL.  147 

AT  ESSEX  JU.VCTION, 

you  may  diverge,  by  branch  railway  of  eight  miles,  along  the 
Winooski  valley,  through  the  brisk  Winooski  Village,  at  the 
Falls  of  the  same  name,  through  the  "tunnel"  of  nearly  four 
hundred  feet  length,  piercing  a  high  blufl",  to  the  fair  city  of 

BURLINGTON, 

the  queen  city  of  the  mountain  commonwealth,  on  the  eastern 
slope  of  Lake  Champlain,  which,  at  this  point  is  ten  miles  wide. 
This  is  one  of  the  great  lumber  ports  of  the  country,  and  manu- 
factories of  iron,  steel  and  wooden  wares  and  woolen  fabrics,  are 
numerous  and  important.  From  favorable  points  of  observation, 
you  look  across  the  smiling  waters  of  the  lake  and  the  Islajuls 
upon  the  wild  outline  of  tlie  Adirtfndacks  to  the  west,  its  profiii- 
nent  peaks  arising  to  more  than  5,^X)0  feet  in  height.  The  great 
lake  extends  northward  and  southward  beyond  the  line  of  vision, 
dotted  with  islands  and  bordered  by  towns  and  points  memorable 
with  historical  and  legendary  associations.  Ethan  Allen's  monu- 
ment, High  Bridge,  Rock  Point  Institute,  Howard's  Summit  and 
other  places  of  interest  will  be  visited.  "  Rock  Dunder,"  front- 
ing the  city,  three  miles  out  in  the  dark  waters  of  the  lake,  remains 
unchanged  by  the  cursing  or  cannonading  of  the  British  Admiral 
who  mistook  it  for  the  frowning  walls  of  a  fort ;  south  of  it  are  the 
"  Four  Brothers,"  little  green  isles  of  peculiar  beauty.  "  Fort 
Kent,"  at  the  mouth  of  the  Ausable  River,  is  directly  opposite  on 
the  western  shore,  and  away  to  the  north  Plattsburg  is  some- 
times seen  in  favorable  weather.  A  steamer  runs  from  this  point 
to  Plattsburg  in  the  summer  months.  ' 

THE  AMERICAN  HOTEL 

is  the  largest  and  most  complete  hotel  in  the  city,  and  in  its 
management  and  provision  for  the  wante  and  comforts  of 
patrons,  is  second  to  none  in  the  whole  range  of  pleasure  travel. 
Crane  &  Stacy  are  the  proprietors,  the  first  named  being  the 
manager  of  the  house.  After  enjoying  the  comforts  of  this  fine 
hotel  for  the  night,  you  will  wish  to  visit  the  buildings  of  the 


148 


NORTHERN    rLEABLRE    TRAVEL. 


University  of  Vermont,  here  located,  founded  in 
witli  ample  funds  and  grants,  with  agricultural 
institutes  connected,  and  from  the  observatory  of 
building  enjoy  the  wide  prospect  overlooking 
western  view  described,  with  the  fair  city  itself 
«weep  of  broken  country  landward,  with  the  great 
Into  view. 

LAKE  CHAMPLAIN 


1701,  endowed 
and    medical 

the  University 
the  lake  and 
and  the  wide 

peaks  looming 


is  one  hundred  and  forty  miles  extreme  length,  covers  an  area  of 
«ix  hundred  square  miles,  connects  at  its  southern  base  with 
the  Hudson,  by  canal  from  Whitehall,  receives  the  surplus  waters 
of  Lake  George,  and  discharges  through  the  Richelieu  Kiver  into 
the  St.  Lawrence.  Burlington,  St.  Albans  and  Vergennes,  on 
the  eastern  shore,  have  flne  harbors,  and  Plattsburg,  Ticonder- 
oga  and  Crown  Point,  on  the  New  York  side,  are  places  of  great 
historic  interest  and  noted  associations.  The  scenery  on  the 
Ausable  River,  reached  Ironi  Port  Kent  or  Plattsburg,  is  the  most 
remarkable  of  any4nland  stream  in  the  Eastern  States.  Here  the 
riv^i  dashes  for  a  mile  through  a  narrow  passage  in  the  sand- 
stone, between  walls  of  two  hundred  feet  perpendicular  height, 
forming  a  chasm  wild,  romantic  and  grand  in  the  extreme,  dis- 
tant twelve  miles  from  Plattsburg. 


NORTHIRN    PLEASURE   TRAVEL.  149 

Lake  Cbamplaia  was  discovered  in  the  year  1009  by  Samuel  de 
Champlain,  the  noted  and  indomitable  Frencli  geographer.  Of 
its  islands,  promontories,  ports,  landings,  and  the  surroundings 
and  charms,  natural  and  historical,  of  Lake  Champlain  and 
Lake  George,  the  Adirondacks,  and  the  military  and  naval  en- 
gagements hereabouts,  you  will  have  full  account  in  Faxon's- 
GuiDB  TO  Saratoga  Springs  and  this  whole  lake  region,  just 
issued  from  the  press,  and  obtainable  at  all  important  points  in 
this  region. 

STEAMERS 

of  the  Lake  Champlain  Transportation  Company  run  A*om 
Rouse's  Point,  the  evening  boat  stopping  at  Plattsburg,  and  re- 
maining at  Burlington  for  the  night,  leaving  that  point  at  10.45 
A.M.  n4xt  day,*  giving  full  time  for  viewing  *the  attractions  of 
Burlington,  and  a  day  trip  over  the  lake  to  Whitehall.  At  Platts- 
burg you  connect  with  trains  for  the  hunting  and  fishing  grounds 
of  the  Adirondack  wilderness,  at  St.  Alban's  Bay  with  the  village 
of  St.  Albans,  at  Burlington  with  the  Rutland  and  Vermont  Cen- 
tral railways,  at  Ticonderoga  with  the  stages  (four  miles)  for  the 
steamer  on  Lake  George,  which  takes  you  over  ihli  wonderful 
lake,  surrounded  by  so  much  that  is  of  historic  interest  and  na- 
tural beauty,  to  Caldwell,  at  the  upper  end  of  the  Lake,  where 
are  the  ruins  of  old  Fort  William  Henry,  and  the  elegant  and 
commodious  Fort  William  Henry  Hotel,  one  of  the  largest 
and  most  complete  hotels  in  the  country,  T.  Roessle  &  Son, 
proprietors,  and  affording  to  frequenters  of  the  lake  and  vicinity 
all  the  comforts  and  luxuries  which  liberality  and  enterprise  can 
provide.  Stages  leave  from  this  point  and  connect  at  Glens  Falls 
with  trains  of  superb  passei)<5er  curs  on  the  Renssalaer  and  Sara- 
toga Railroad  for  Saratoga  Springs. 

AT  GLEN^S  FALLS 

the  Rockvirell  Honae  is  a  commodious  home  for  the  tourist  and 
traveler,  kept  by  the  Rockwell  Brothers,  and,* 

AT  PLATTSBURG, 

the   well  known  house  known  as   FouqueVs  Hotel  is  a  retreat 


150  NORTHERN  PLEASURE  TRAVBL. 

for  the  traveling  class,  of  wide  reputation  and  acknowledged  ex- 
cellence. 

FROM  BURLINGTON 

the  passenger  may  reacli  Rutland  over  the  Rutland  Railroad, 
thence  over  the  Cheshire  Road  to  Bellows  Falls,  Fitchburg  or 
Boston,  or  l)y  way  of  Harlem  Branch  to  Manchester,  one  of  the 
finest  of  New  England  villages,  with  flue  promenades,  marble 
paving,  near  facilities  lor  sporting,  tlr.<t-class  entertainment  at  the 
Equinox  House,  in  the  shadow  of  Mount  Equinox,  and  other 
hotels  of  good  repute. 

ST.  ALBANS. 

Thirty-two  miles  from  Burlington,  twenty-four  from  Essex 
Junction,  and  sixty-five  miles  from  Montreal  is  the  thriving  vil- 
lage of  St.  Albans.  The  town  has  a  population  of  8,000,  and  the 
increase  in  wealth,  mechanical  pursuits  and  population  is  very 
rnpid.  The  village  is  finely  situated  on  the  wide  slope  overlook- 
ing the  waters  of  Lake  Cham  plain.  Main  street  is  the  principal 
and  most  attractive  street.  The  railway  station  of  the  Vermont 
Central  line  is  a  spacious  and  commodious  brick  structure,  and 
adjoining  are  the  offices  of  this  important  line.  The  extensive 
construction  and  repair  shops  of  the  company  are  near  by,  where 
locomotives  and  cars  of  all  descriptions  are  constructed  and  re- 
paired in  a  superior  manner.  The  village  is  prettily  laid  out,  has 
a  fine  common  centrally  located,  and  many  tasty  residences,  that 
of  Ex  Governor  Smith  being  particularly  noticeable  for  its  fine 
grounds  and  tasty  arrangements. 

From  Aldis  Hill,  a  short  distance  to  the  rear  of  Gov.  Smith's 
fine  residence,  and  easily  reached  by  a  stroll  of  a  half  hour,  you 
have  one  of  the  finest  views  to  be  found  in  a  wide  range  of 
travel,  overlooking  as  it  does,  the  great  Lake  and  its  islands,  the 
distant  Adirondacks,  the  wild  counties  of  New  York  to  the 
west,  the  fair  village  at  your  feet,  and  the  wide  valley  and  charm- 
ing plains  stretching  southward  and  northward.  Bellevue  Hill, 
farther  to  the  east,  reached  by  a  short  drive,  affords  a  still  finer 
view,  from  the  observatory,  of  the  lake  and  surroundings,  and  also 
a  wide  outlook  towards  the  interior  of  the  State. 


NORTHERN  FLEA8URE  TRAVEL.  151 

Much  of  the  business  of  Northwestern  Vermont  centres  here. 
As  a  butter  and  cheese  market  it  is  quoted  as  the  market  of  ail 
otliers  in  those  commodities.  Waterworks  are  nearly  completed 
on  a  scale  to  supply  the  village  with  pure  water  for  domestic  use 
and  business  purposes.  A  rolling  mill  for  the  manufacture  of 
railroad  iron  has  lately  been  put  in  active  operation.  A  court 
house  of  creditable  proportions  and  design  is  in  process  of  build- 
ing, and  all  the  necessities;  and  adornments  of  a  nourishing  town 
are  here  combined.  It  is  the  shire  town  of  Franklin  county,  the 
llnest  agricultural  county  of  the  state.  From  St  Albans  the 
traveler  can  proceed  directly  north  to  Montreal  or  diverge  west- 
ward by  the  Ogdensburg  line,  or  by  either  route  continue  to  any 
section  of  the  great  west. 

The  Weldon  House  has  been  opened  for  the  last  eight  years,  af- 
fording to  the  traveling  public  accommodations  every  way  desir- 
able. The  name  is  in  honor  of  Jesse  Weldon,  the  pioneer  white 
settler  of  the  town.  Waters  from  the  springs  at  Ilighgate,  Sheldon, 
and  the  nearer  vicinity  are  furnished  guests  at  this  hotel.  The  en- 
tire construction  and  management  of  the  house  is  on  a  liberal  scale. 
Duriiig  your  stay  at  this,  or  one  of  the  smaller  hotels,  you  will 
naturally  learn  many  particulars  regarding  the  famous  St.  Albans 
raid  in  October  1864,  when  pretended  confederates  swept  into 
the  unsuspecting  qui»it  of  the  village,  robbed  its  banks,  murdered 
a  citizen  and  wounded  others,  creating  general  excitement  and 
widespread  terror.  . 

Diverging  from  the  main  line  of  the  Vermont  Central,  just 
above  St.  Albans,  is  the  Missisquoi  Railroad,  leading  along  the 
valley  of  the  Missisquoi  river,  to  the  famous 

MISSISQUOI  SPRINGS,  • 

of  high  reputvi  for  curative  properties. 

SHELDON  SPRINGS 

is  a  noble  fountain  of  mineral  waters,  clear,  transparent,  and 
without  offensive  odor,  in  high  repute  for  its  beneficial  effects 
on  those  afflicted  with  kidney  diseases,  rheumatism  and  skin 
diseases.    These  springs  are  but  nine  miles  from  St.  Albans. 


152 


NORTHERN  PLEASURE  TRAVEL 


HIGHOATE  SPRINGS 


are  twelve  miles  from  St.  Albans,  on  the  direct  line  to  Mon- 
treal, iu  the  town  of  the  same  name,  immediately  adjoining  the 
railway,  in  a  fertile  ami  attractive  country,  with  fine  facilities 
for  sporting,  recreation  or  rest. 

ALBURGH  SPRINGS. 

Situated  on  the  railway  to  Rouse's  Point,  sixteen  miles  from 
St.  Albans,  reached  by  crossing  the  great  railroad  bridge, 
three-fourths  cf  a  mile  in  length,  over  that  portion  of  the  lake 
connecting  with  Missisquoi  Bay.    The 


ALBUKGH  SPRINGS  HOUSE, 


H.  II.  Howe,  manager,  is  on  the  banks  of  Missisquoi  Bay,  one 
mile  from  the  raikoad ;  is  opened  early  in  May  for  reception 
of  guests ;  is  elegantly  furnished  and  efficiently  managed. 


MORTHBRN    PLEASURE   TRAVEL.  153 

The  Spniif^s  have  a  reputation,  extending  back  for  nearly  a 
century,  for  the  cure  of  rheumatic,  Bcrofulous  and  kidney  com- 
phiintH,  liver  difticulties,  humors,  etc.  The  grand  and  attract* 
ive  scenery  and  superior  facilities  for  boating,  driving  and 
sp4»rting,  make  it  an  attractive  retreat  in  which  to  recuperate 
wasted  energies  and  regain  lost  health,  while  it  is  no  less  a 
pleasing  retreat  for  the  vigorous  seeking  rest  and  pleasure. 

UP  TIIK  CONNKCTICUr  VALLBY. 

The  route  from  New  York  City  to  the  mountains  and  Can- 
adas,  via  Springfield,  and  thence  up  the  Connecticut  valley, 
has  been  already  outlined  to  Springfield  in  the  description  of 
routes  at  the  beginning  of  this  book.  Leaving  Springfield 
and  coming  northward,  junction  is  formed  at  Northampton 
with  the  New  Haven  and  Northampton  R.  R. ;  at  Greenfield 
with  the  Vermont  and  Massachusetts  R  R. ;  at  So.  Vernon, 
at  the  State  line,  with  the  New  London  Northern  R.  R. ;  rit 
Bellows  Falls  with  the  I^utland  and  the  Cheshiie  R.  R.  lints; 
at  White  River  Junction  with  the  Vennont  Central  and 
Northern  N.  H.  R.  R. ;  at  Wells  River  .Junction  with  the  Pas- 
sumpsic  and  Massawippi  Valley  line,  for  Lake  Meniphreni- 
agog  and  the  Canadas,  and  at  the  same  point  with  the  Boston, 
Concord  and  Montreal  line  for  the  White  Mountains  and 
Canadas. 

Leaving  New  York  by  the  New  York  and  New  Haven  line, 
the  observing  stranger  will  be  repaid  for  any  stay  he  may  find 
time  to  make  at  either  of  the  capital  cities  of  New  Haven  or 
Ifartfind,  both  among  the  most  substantial  and  elegant  of 
New  England  cities. 

SPRINGFIELD 

has  many  points  of  interest,  not  only  to  strangers  but  to  all 
unfamiliar  with  the  beautiful  location,  varied  industries  and 
important  railroad  connections  peculiar  to  this  live  and  grow- 
ing city.  It  is  the  trade  centre  of  a  circle  of  thriving  towns, 
ynd  the  importance  of  the  long  lines  of  railway,  here  centreing, 
HI  giving  permanent  prosperity  and  importance  to  the  city  can 
scarcely  be  over-estimated.     The  noble  buildings  and  grounds 


154  NOHTIfKRS    PI  KASIRE    IRATKL. 

of  the  U.  S.  Arsenal  are  the  flr^t  to  uttruct  attention,  and  the 
view  from  the  cupola  of  the  amenal  building  Ih  ho  wide  and 
charming  aM  to  win  ext!avagant  praiHo  from  all  dintinguiMlu'd 
Ibrelj^n  travrlcrs  who  li:iv«  l(M)ke(l  out  over  thin  fair  New  Eujj- 
land  scene.  The  view  from  liOng  Hill  Ih  alwoof  peculiar  int»«reht 
and  wide;  extent;  the  diHtunt  mountain  summitH,  far  to  the 
west,  blending  in  the  wi<l«  landscape,  and  the  graceful  sweep 
of  the  river  giving  added  charm  to  the  broad  and  fertile  valley. 

CIIICOPKE. 

Four  miles  north  of  SprlngHold  is  (-'hicopee,  a  lino  manufac- 
turing town,  and  t  e  extensive  buildings  of  the  Dwight  Mills 
are  seen  from  the  railway.  But  space  forbids  elaborate  descrip- 
tion and  you  are  hurried  on  through  Willimansett,  and 
crossing  the  Connecticut  to  the  west  bank,  you  reach 

UOLYUKE, 

ten  miles  from  Springfield.  The  water  power  at  this  place  is 
second  to  none  in  New  England  or  the  whole  country,  the  dam 
across  the  Connecticut  being  1,017  feet  in  length.  The  location 
of  the  village  is  upon  the  hillside,  with  an  eastern  slope.  The 
water  power  is  largely  utilized,  the  Lyman  Mills  being  an  ex- 
tensive manufactory,  the  Hampton  tickings  and  ginghams  of 
deserved  popularity,  while  the  making  of  paper  of  many  grades, 
largely  writing,  collar  and  manilla  papers,  is  a  noted  item  in 
the  business  of  the  town.  The  several  woolen  mills  are  im- 
portant, being  operated  by  wealthy  private  and  corporate 
owners. 

MT.   IIOLYOKE   SEMINARY, 

in  Hadley,  fifteen  miles  from  Springfield,  is  commandingly  lo- 
cated. The  school  is  peculiar  in  its  plan.  Patrons  of  the 
institution  communicate  with  the  railway  at  Smith's  Ferry. 

NORTHAMPTON    , 

is  eighteen  miles  north  of  Springfield,  and  one  hundred  and 
fifty-three  miles  from  New  York.    The  approach  to  this  old 


NORTHKBN    PLEASURE   TRAVEL.  ITli 

and  important  town  by  rail  is  the  most  attractive  in  its  sur- 
ruundirijjs  of  any  on  the  wholn  route.  Mt.  Ilolyoke  is  to  tlu» 
northeast,  crowned  by  the  ProHpect  llousr,  a  tbouHand  feet 
above  river  level.  It  U  three  miles  from  Northampton  Village 
to  the  summit,  steam  [)ower  takinf^  you  up  an  inclining;  plane 
to  the  summit  from  the  terminus  of  the  carraigo  road.  Thou- 
sands visit  this  uni(|ue  hotel  each  season.  The  view  from  it  Is 
upon  a  scene  almost  unlimited  in  Its  extent  and  variety,  look- 
ing upon  half  a  hundred  villages,  the  elevations  on  the 
shores  of  the  Sound,  away  to  the  Green  Mountains  and  distant 
Monndnock;  on  the  noble  sunnnit  of  grim  (Jreylock,  and  the 
rounded  outlines  of  the  Wachuset  Hills.  Mt.  Tom  (1,2.")()  feet 
elevation)  lies  on  the  left,  the  railway  passing  between  them. 
Persons  who  tarry  in  this  line  old  town  will  liml  in  its  early 
history  and  many  localities  of  interest  much  to  interest  and 
charm  them.  It  is  a  i)lace  of  much  resort,  and  its  broad,  open 
streets  are  a  charniing  and  noticeable  feature.  The  Round 
Hill  Water  Cure,  with  extensive  buildings,  and  the  State 
Lunatic  Asylum,  are  important  institutions,  while  the  Man- 
sion  House  and  Warner  lloiise  give  excelh'ut  accommodations 
to  patrons.  The  live  village  of  Flouence,  so  known  from 
that  mechanical  mai  vel,  the  Florence  Sewinff  Machine,  here 
manufactured,  is  about  two  miles  distant  by  rail,  and  beyond 
are  Haydenville  and  Williamsburg,  two  other  important  out- 
lying villages  in  the  town  of  Williamsburg. 

Passing  on  through  Easthampton,  four  miles  further  north, 
an  enterprising  town,  with  extensive  manufacturing  interests, 
and  catching  a  glimpse  of 

OLD  HADLEY, 

some  three  miles  distant  to  the  right,  memorable  as  the  se- 
cluded home  for  a  time  of  Goffe  and  Whalley,  the  renegades 
whose  story  all  know.  This  is  a  curious  old  town,  lying  in  a 
curve  of  the  Connecticut,  with  streets  twenty  rods  in  width, 
and  on  its  eastern  limit  bordered  by  the  important  town  of 
Amherst  with  its  colleges  and  extensive  cabinets. 

From  Northampton  to  the  state  line  the  railway  line  is  some 
distance  to  the  west  of  the  Connecticut,  not  approaching  the 


156  NOKTHERN   PLEASURE   TRAVEL. 

near  vicinity  of  the  river  excepting  where  the  gi-eai  loop  of 
the  river  encircles  the  village  of  Hadlky,  passing  through 
Hatfield,  Whatley,  Deerfield,  Greenfield,  Bernardstown  and 
Xorthfield.  This  line  of  old  towns  are  all  rich  in  their  histor- 
ical associations,  and  picturesque  in  location  and  surrounding 
scenery,  and  the  outlying  towns  and  villages  are  important. 

GREENFIELD 

is  the  point  where  this  railway  line  intersects  with  the  Ver- 
mont and  Massachusetts  or  Hoosac  Tunnel  line,  soon  to 
become  one  of  the  gi'eat  routes  to  the  west,  and  the  town 
itself  is  an  important  point  for  trade  and  manufactures,  and 
attractive  for  residence. 

TURNER'S  FALLS, 

on  the  Connecticut,  four  miles  from  Greenlield,  is  one  of 
the  most  thriving  of  the  manufacturing  towns  of  western 
Massachusetts  —  a  modern  manufacturing  town,  bidding  fair 
to  become  populous  and  important,  or  perhaps  it  may  better 
be  said  that  it  has  already  become  so. 
The  red  cone  of 

SUGAR  LOAF   MOUNTAIN 

is  seen  to  the  right,  soon  after  leaving  Whatley  station,  and 
the  station  at  South  Deerfield  is  but  one  and  a  half  miles  from 
the  "Summit,  or  Mountain  House,"  to  which  a  passable  road 
now  leads.  The  view  from  this  point  of  the  Connecticut 
basin  looks  southward  to  Mounts  Holyoke  and  Tom ;  northward 
to  the  peaks  near  the  state  line ;  the  bold  ranges  on  either 
hand  and  the  smiling  pastoral  scene  lying  in  quiet  beauty 
along  the  broad  valley. 

SOUTH  YERVON, 

ju«it  over  the  state  line  in  Vermont,  is  the  point  where  the 
Ashuelot  road  diverges  to  Keene,  N.  H.,  and  the  New  Lon- 


NOKTHKRN    PLEASURE    TRAVEL.  157 

don  Northern  joins  from  tho  eastward.  Lookinj?  up  the 
valley  of  the  Ashuelot,  as  you  near  the  Vernon  station,  Grand 
Monadnock  is  seen  in  the  far  distance.  The  line  of  approach 
from  this  point  to  Brattleboro'  is  one  of  peculiar  beauty  and 
interest;  passing  along  the  west  bank  of  tlie  Connecticut  you 
look  upon  the  wooded  islands  of  the  river  and  up  the  valley  to 
the  line  of  bHie  hills  in  the  distance. 

BRATTLEBORO' 

is  one  of  the  most  beautiful  of  Connecticut  valley  towns,  lying 
on  a  broken  site,  encircled  by  hills  and  mountains.  The  loca- 
tion is  admired  by  all  who  appreciate  bold  variety  and  quiet 
beauty  combined  in  landscape.  From  the  terraces  of  the 
town,  and  especially  to  the  south  from  Cemetery  Hill,  the 
prospect  is  peculiarly  varied,  bold  and  charming;  the  wide 
sweep  of  the  river  and  the  abrupt  slope  of  Mt.  Wautastiquet 
to  the  east,  with  the  bold  and  graceful  outlines  of  more  distant 
hills  in  the  background,  the  shaded  and  broken  lines  of  the 
village  street,  combine  in  a  rare  and  charming  picture. 

The  Brooks  Uouse,  Charles  G.  Lawrence,  proprietor,  may 
be  best  described  by  stating  that  it  is  one  of  the  finest  and 
most  complete  hotels  in  the  state,  excelled  by  few  if  any  in 
New  England;  in  every  respect  complete  and  first-class  and 
worthy  of  patronage. 

From  Brattleboro'  the  railroad  closely  follows  the  west  bank 
of  the  Connecticut,  through  the  old  towns  of  Dummerstown, 
Putney  and  Westminster,  to 

BELLOWS  FALLS. 

Here  is  an  extensive  water-power,  the  rapid  course  of  the 
Connecticut  in  this  vicinity  affording  great  facilities  for  the 
creation  of  valuable  power,  and  this  power  has  of  late  been  ex- 
tensively utilized,  with  prospect  of  establishing  here  a  manu- 
facturing centre  of  great  importance.  Extensive  manufac- 
tories of  paper  have  of  late  been  established  here.  The 
terraces  along  the  valley  of  the  Connecticut  are  here  distinctly 
marked,  and  on  these  tenaces  and  in  the  beds  of  ancient 


158 


NORTHERN    PLEASURE    TRATEL. 


lakes,  here  apparent,  the  geologist  finds  evidences  of  great 
natural  changes  in  the  past.  The  place  has  of  late  become 
popular  as  a  resort  for  the  summer,  and 


THE  ISLAND   HOUSE 


is  commodious  in  its  plan,  and  finely  situated,  giving  a  good 
view  of  the  falls  or  rapids.  The  windows  and  verandas  com- 
mand fine  views  and  catch  the  purest  breezes.  S.  C.  Fleming 
is  the  gentlemanly  and  efiicient  proprietor,  who  will  leave 
nothing  to  be  desired  in  his  provisions  for  your  comfort. 

From  this  point  the  traveler  may  take  the  Rutland  line  to 
Rutland,  Burlington  and  all  points  north  and  west,  or  the 
Cheshire  line  for  Fitchburg  and  Boston,  or  continue  northward 
along  the  Connecticut  valley  on  the  east  side,  within  the 
limits  of  New  Hampshire,  through  the  Charlestown  Stations. 
This  is  a  long  township  stretching  for  fifteen  miles  along  the 
east  bank  of  the  river.  A  line  of  stages  run  from  Charlestown 
to  Springfield,  Yt.,  a  picturesque  town  six  miles  from  the 

station, 

• 

CLAREMONT,  N.  H., 

fourteen  miles  from  Bellows  Falls,  is  the  champion  agricul- 
tural town  of  the  Granite  State,  desirable  as  a  residence  and 
important  for  its  manufactures  and  business  enterprise.  Here 
the  Sugar  River  Railroad  reaches  the  Connecticut  valley  from 


NORTHERX  PLEASURE  TRATEL.  159 

Concord,  via  Bradford  and  Newport,  and  intemiediate  towns. 
Twelve  miles  above  Claremont  is 

WINDSOR,   VT., 

where  the  railway  crosses  to  the  west  bank  of  the  river  and 
continues  from  this  point  within  the  state  of  Vermont.  On 
the  way  to  Windsor  from  Claremont  the  prominent  and  rocky 
summit  of  Ascutney  Mountain  haunts  your  course.  It  can  be 
ascended  from  the  hotel  at  Windsor— distance,  about  tive  miles 
from  carriage  road  to  summit.  The  Vermont  State  Prison  is 
located  here,  and  considerable  manufacturing  is  carried  on. 
Fourteen  miles  further  north, 


WHITE  RIVER  JUNCTION 


in  the  town  of  Hartford,  Vt.,  and  opposite  the  large  and 
enterprising  town  of  Lebanon,  N.  H.,  which  lies  just  across  the 
river  is  reached.  This  is  one  of  the  most  important  sta- 
tions on  the  line.  The  through  northern  line  to  the  west,  via 
the  New  Hampshire,  Northern  and  Vermont  Central  Railway 
Line,  here  intersects  with  the  Connecticut  valley  route,  and 
passengers  can  diverge  westward  to  Montpelier,  Mt.  Mans- 
field, Burlington,  St.  Albans,  Montreal  or  the  west ;  or  east- 
ward to  Concord,  Boston  or  intermediate  points  —  Mt.  Kiar- 
sarge  being  but  four  miles  distant  from  Potter  Place  Station 
on  this  line.  Here  are  commodious  depot  buildings,  and  at 
so  ne  hours  of  the  day  a  busy  scene  of  exchange  from  train  to 
train  may  be  witnessed,  as  the  several  roads  converge  with  their 
human,  and  less  precious  freight.  The  extensive  and  excellent 
depot  dining  station  at  this  point,  and  the  Junction  House  near 
by,  are  both  well  managed  oy  the  Barrens,  who  also  cater  so 
successfully  to  the  wants  of  the  traveling  public  at  the  Twin 
^[ountain  and  Crawford  Houses  at  the  White  Mountains. 

Going  northward  from  this  Junction,  Norwich,  once  im- 
portant as  the  location  of  the  Vermont  Military  Institute,  is 
shortly  reached,  a  tine  place  still  for  residence  or  temporary 
sojourn.  Opposite,  on  the  New  Hampshire  side  of  the  river, 
Hanover  is  located,  where  Dartmouth  College,  the  only  col- 


160  NORTHERN    TLEASLRE   TRAVEL. 

lege  in  New  Hampsliire,  has  a  fame  which  reaches  every  part 
of  the  laud.  The  college  buildings  are  at  no  grent  distance 
from  the  railway,  and  the  village  is  a  quiet,  pleasant  retreat 
for  those  who  choose  to  make  it  their  permanent  or  temporary 
home. 

The  college  has  had  a  century  of  life,  and  its  graduates  are 
in  every  part  of  the  land  in  every  department  of  professional 
and  mercantile  life.  Many  of  them  have  struggled  through 
the  course  of  study  against  all  the  drawbacks  of  poverty,  but 
seldom  have  they  failed  to  do  honor  to  themselves  and  the 
institution. 

Continuing  northward  the  Thetford  and  Lyme  and  Fairlee 
and  Orford  stations  are  passed,  and  Bradford  and  Newbury 
are  important  and  finely  located  towns.  The  Trotter  Bourse, 
at  Bradford,  H.  E.  Harris,  proprietor,  is  a  good  hotel,  with 
livery  connected.  North  of  Newbury  you  overloook  the  grand 
loop  or  bow  of  the  Connecticut  to  the  right,  and  the  wide  and 
beautiful  valley  lying  about  it.  On  the  line  of  approach  to 
this  point  you  catch  an  occasional  glimpse  of  Moosilauk  Moun- 
tain, away  to  the  eastward,  {4,600  feet  elevation),  and  nearer 
and  lesser  summits  in  the  same  direction.  At  forty  miles  from 
White  River  Junction  you  reach 

WELLS  RIVER, 

from  which  point  you  can  continue  north w^ard  along  the 
Connecticut  and  Passumpsic  valley  to  Lake  Meniphremagog 
and  the  Canadas,  or  connect  with  the  Boston,  Concord  and 
Montreal  for  the  White  Mountains,  and  with  the  (yet  unfin- 
ished) line  from  Wells  River  to  Montpelier.  These  connecting 
lines  have  all  been  previously  described  under  appropriate 
heads  in  other  portions  of  this  book,  as  also  has  the  scenery 
along  the  line.  In  the  early  summer  no  finer  railway  trip  can 
be  taken  tlian  than  this  along  the  valley  of  the  upper  Con- 
necticut and  beside  the  winding  Passumpsic  rivers. 


IHEt.  inTashington  Railmray. 

SUMMER    ARRANGEMENT,    -   -    1873. 

XTPVrARD. 

Leave  Ammonusuc  Station 10.30  A.M.,     5.30  P.M. 

DOWlTWiLRD. 
Leave  Tip-Top  Station 8  A.M.,    2  P.M. 

EXTRA  TRAIXS  will  be  ruR  for  a  ro.isonal>1e  number  of  passengerH 
uiK)ii  suitable  notice  by  Mail  or  Telegraph. 

COACHES  to  and  from  the  Kailroads  and  lIoteH  connect  with  all  regu- 
lar trains,  iioth  at  the  base  and  Summit. 

JOHN   W.    DODGE.   Manager. 

LAKE  WINNIPESAUKEE. 


THE      NEVA/     STEAMER, 

Connecting  at  Weirs  with  the 

BOSTON,  CONCORD  &  MONTRFAL  RAILROAD, 


>  It 


Leaves  Weirs  for 

CENTEE  nARBOB,    CONiVAY,  NOETH  CONWAY,    • 
WHITE  and  FE  AN  CON  I A  MOUNTAINS, 

At  11,50  A.M.,  and  4.40  P.M.,  or  on  arrival  of  the  trains  from  Boston.  Pas- 
8t;iiger.-«  leaving  Boston  by  the  7.30  A.M.  irain,  via  JJoston  &  >rMine,  or  8.0D 
A.M.  Express,  viaUuston  &  Lowvll,  arrive  at  Centre  Harbor  (^ailing  over  the 

i-  ;...........»:....   ......f:  ...    ..f  4^1. ,v  r  ..t-   \ i..,..»  ....»':.^«  4^1.,...    i..,  ......   y-..-i...n 


BAG6AGI3    CHECKED    THROUGH. 


RETURNING. 

Leaves  Wolfboro'  daily,  at  5.30  A.^r.,  and  10.15  A.M.,  touching  at  Dia- 
mond l.*land  tour  times  a  day,  to  c mnect  at  Weirs  with  trains  going  Nortli 
and  South.  Leaves  Centre  Harbor  at  7.30  A.M.  and  1.00  P.M.  lor  Boston 
and  Is'ew  York. 

Passengers  leaving  Conway,  North  Conway,  Centre  Harbor,  or  Wolfboro' 
in  the  morning,  aiiive  in  Boblon  or  New  York  1^  hours  earlier  than  by 
any  other  route, 

11  E.  BICKFORD,  Captain. 


Boston,  Concord,  Montreal  &  White  Mountains 


TRAINS  NORTH -LEAVE 

Kx.  Train. ' 

Mail  Traill. 

Ex.  Train. 

Ac.  Train. 

M.  Y.,  Tia  Kail  Kiver  StrH., 
Pi«r  28  North  River. . . . 

5.00 

r.M. 

N.  Y.,  via  New  LiOndoii 

Stn*.,  I'ier  40  N.  River.. 

500 

8.00 
a8.00. 
a7.30 
11.10 
12.40 
a2.00 
a4.00 

C.30 
a«.00 
a5.60 
aC05 

(( 

4.M. 

P.M. 
A.M. 

New  York.  &11  rail 

10  00  A  M 

Boston,  I-iowell  Depot  . . . 
HoRtoD,  B.  &  M.  Depot. . . 
New  Haven 

12.00  M. 
12.00  M. 

6.00  P.M. 
5.00     " 
12  34     •' 

Hartford 

6.00  A 
7.18 

.M. 

1  37     " 

Spriiigtitihl 

New  London 

A.M. 

«( 

(( 
t( 

(( 
(( 

2.35     " 

Worcester {^l^;;^; 

New  Bedford 

"ii.'is" 

... 

**4.36    "' 

I'rovidence  via  Worcester 

2  15    *' 

"         Manhfield  and 

Framingliaro 
Newport,  R.  I 

a6.16 
06.00 
a5.45 
a6.32 
a7.57 
a7.00 
a6.15 
a7.56 
a7.55 
a7.15 
a8.4S 
a9.30 
a8.25 

al0.02 
10.35 

alO.35 

(. 
(« 
<< 
(( 

<( 

41 
4< 

(( 
(t 
(( 
<( 
(< 
<( 
<( 
(< 
<( 

1.20    " 

FhII  River 

TauOvOU 

1  .30     " 

South  J'raraingham 

Salem 

10.30 
10.30 
11.00 

5.10    " 

500     " 

^Newburyport 

2  55     " 

Portsmoutli 

5.10     " 

cDover 

610.55 
i;12.28 
1.00 
1.35 
1.05 
2.20 
3.05 
3..30 
3.35 

P.M. 

ii 

(( 
<< 
a 
« 
(( 
a 

c5A5    " 

Haverhill 

bS  30     " 

Lowell 

7  00     " 

Nashua 

7  .'{0     " 

Lawrence 

6  05     '' 

Manchester 

8^07     " 

iiast  Concord 

8.45    " 

10.45  A.M. 
10.51     •• 

8.45    " 
8  47     " 

North  Concord 

Canterbury  . .  

11.09  " 
11.18     " 
11.30     " 
11.39     «' 
11.53     " 
11.58    " 

12.10  P.M. 

3.51 
4  10 
4.22 
4.30 
4.43 
4.48 
5.00 

(( 
i< 
(< 
(( 
<( 
(( 
<( 

8  57     *' 

Northfield 

9 11     " 

Tilton 

9  25     " 

East  Tilton 

9  35     " 

Lac  onia 

11.35 

11.40 

11.52 

LOO 

2,00 

/6.00 

8.00 

<( 

P.M. 

<( 

9.44     " 

9.53     " 

10.05     •* 

Lake  Village 

W Weirs,  Steamboat...... 

Centre  Harbor..  1  fi'fj.!® ' 
Leave. . 

West  Ossipee 

North  Conway 

Wolfboro' 

6.30 
5.14 
5.35 

(( 

Jdereditli  Village 

12.20    " 
12.41    " 

10  17     " 

Ashland 

10.40    " 

Bridgewater 

riymoath....j*jn>e... 
<iuincy 

12.25 
1.10 

12.55    •* 
1.20    " 

65.50    " 
7.35  A.M. 

elO.55    •' 

1.41     " 
1.50    " 
2.03    " 
2.14    " 
2.44    " 
2.58     " 

7.58 
8.07 
8.19 
8.29 
9.03 
9.15 

West  Runiney 

Wcntworth 

Warren 

1.50 

<( 

East  Haverhill 

JH.iverhill  and  Newbury. . 

Boston,  C'onoord,  Montreal  A  WUItBoniitaInN 

Rallroi.d— Concladed 

TRAINS  NORTH-LEAVE 

Ex- Tn 

iin. 

Mail  Train. 
3.25  "" 
3.45    " 
3.40    " 
4.00    " 
4.17    " 
4.33    " 
4.53    " 
7.00    " 
8.11    " 
5.30    " 
6.00     " 
5.45    " 
6.30     " 

6.45  " 
8.00     " 
5.27     " 
5.40    " 

5.46  " 

Ex.  Train. 

9.42    " 

10.05  " 
lO.OO    " 
10.20     " 
10.51     " 

11.06  " 
yll.15     " 

1.00  I'M. 

A.-.  'lYalP. 

W«<^«^»»e Leave.'.' 

Wells  River 

Bath 

Lisbon •• 

North  Lisbon 

Littleton,  arrive 

3.22 
6.J0 
3.37 
3.50 
4.25 
4.07 
4.30 
4.45 
6.00 
4.00 

Profile  House,  arrive 

WingRoa<l,          "    

yll.34  A.M. 
f7ll.57     " 
12.30  P.M. 
12.15     " 
12.45     " 
1.00     " 
2.00     " 
11.60  A.M. 
12.03  P.M. 

Bethleliem,            •'    

Sinclair  House,    "    

Twin  Mt.  Station,  arrive. 

White  Mt.  House,      "  . 

Crawford  House,        "... 
Dalton,                        "... 

...•...>.... 

•   ••■•••■■•       • 

So.  Lancaster.            *•  . . . 

12.08     " 

Lanca,.„....{A™«.:- 
Waumbeck  House,  arr... 

4.32 
6.00 
6.00 
6.18 
6.30 

<• 
.( 
.• 
(( 
it 

6.00    " 
8.00    " 
6.18    " 
6.30    " 

012.21     " 
2.00     " 
1236     " 
12.45     •* 
4.15     " 
5.00     " 
1.55     " 
2.15     " 
6.00     " 
5.30     " 
8.45    " 
9.20    " 

i7.20  A.M. 

Northumberland  Falls. . 
Northumberland,  arrive.. 
Gorhani.  arrive 

t7..3S    " 

i7.50    " 

ilO  30    " 

Glen  Hou^e.  arrive 

ill.30    " 

Island  Pond....    ^^V^e^; 

^iohmoi^d {'^l^;i- 

Montreal,  arrive 

9.00 
1.00 
2.05 
3.30 
6.50 
7.40 

,t 
(« 

A.M. 

t< 

<( 

11 

9.00    " 
10.00    " 
2.05  A  .M. 
2-30    " 
6.50    " 
7.40    " 

Quebec,         "        ....... 



aThirty  minu'es  for  dinner  at  the  Pemigewasset  House.  Plymouth,  Hnd 
arrive  at  Littleton,  Lancaster,  Profile  House  (Franconia  Mountains),  Fa- 
byan,  Sinclair,  Waunibek,  Crawford,  Twin  Mountain  and  White  Mountain 
Houses  early  the  fame  afternoon,  and  Mount  Waslungton  House  (sunnnit 
cf  Mount  Washington)  before  sunset.  Passengers  for  Montreal  and  Quebec 
have  two  hours  for  tea  at  Lancaster. 
fcVia  Haverhill  and  Lawrence. 

cVia  Concord  and  Portsiuouth  R.  R.  from  Newmarket  Junction. 
rfSteamboat  for  Woltboro',  Centre  Harbor  stages  to  West  Ossipee,  rail  to 
North  Conway,  one  hour  at  Senter  House,  Centre  Harbor,  for  diinier. 

e Passengers  by  the  accommodation  and  afternoon  express  trains  Kwige  at 
Plymouth,  and  proct  sd  at  7.35  the  following  morning  arriving  at  Littleton, 
Lancaster,  and  Profile,  Crawford,  Twin  Mountain,  Fabyan,  Sinclair,  Waum- 
bek  and  White  Mountain  Houses  in  time  to  dine;  connecting  at  Northum- 
berland with  the  12.45  P.M.  train,  Grand  Trunk  Railway,  for  Island  Pond, 
Montreal  and  Quebec,  Gorham  and  Glen  House,  arriving  early  same  evening. 
/Supper. 

^Passengers  by  this  train,  leaving  the  Mountain  Houses  after  usual 
breakfast  hours,  connect  at  Northumberland  Junction  with  G.  T.  R.  R., 
for  Glen  House,  Montreal  and  Quebec,  arriving  early  the  same  evening. 

iMorning  train,  for  accommodation  of  passengers,  from  Lancaster  for  Glen 
House,  connects  at  Northumberland  Junction  withG.  T.  R.  R.  for  Gorham. 
Elegant  Parlor  Cars  run  through  from  New  London,  via  Worcester  and 
Nashua;  from  Newport  and  FallRiver,  ria  Nashua  and  Acton;  from  Bos- 
ton to  all  stations  on  Boston,  Concord,  Montreal  and  White  Mountains 
R.  R.,  connecting  at  Northumberland  Junction  with  through  express  train 
(with  Pullman  cars)  for  Sherbrooke,  Montreal  and  Quebec. 

Conductors  B.  C.  &  M.,and  White  Mountains  li.tf.'s.—J.  S.  Russ,  Davi<l 
Ferguson,  W.  H.  Rollins,  G.  W.  Eastman,  L.  V.  Moulton,  T.  Roby,  O.  M. 
Hinds,  E.  F.  Mann,  Geo.  V.  Moulton. 

W.  W.  BERG,  Gen.  Passenger  Agent, 

5  State  Street,  Boston. 


Boston,  Concord,  Montreal  &  White  Mountains 

:e^7vii_.r.o7^id. 


TRAINS  SOUTH- LEAVE 

iKx.  Train 

Ml.  Traill 

LIO  P.M. 

1.45    •' 
5..30     " 
5.45    " 
9.00    •' 

Kx.  TfRln 

1  A<\  Train 

(inebuc 

Montreal 

8.30  p  M. 

10.00     " 
L.^OA.M. 
2.15    •• 
fi.OO     •' 
7.45    " 

C7.00 

r7.00 

C10..30 

clO.45 

c  12.05 

c2.00 

A.M. 

A.M. 

i.ia.,.iromi,...ji^;i;:^; 

(iCt  Icn  IIouHe 

<< 
P.M. 

M0.25  A.M. 

Uorham 

*  'y.'oo ' 

3.12 

i.;m) 

.3.27 

3.41 

3.47 

4.00 

2.00 

3  00 

.3.15 

3.45 

3.45 

4.05 

4.20 

3.00 

4.48 

5.03  • 

5.18 

5..33 

5.45 

5.46 

li 

(« 
(< 
t( 
<< 
.» 
(( 
(< 
<( 
it 
(( 
(< 
t< 
<< 
■  i 
(( 
(< 
(( 
<< 
(( 

611.25    '• 

Nortliumberland  June. 

9.00     " 
9.09    " 
8.00    " 
9.25    " 

ftl.15    •• 

"                FjilKs... 

M.35    ** 

Waninbek  1  louse 

0.00  A.M. 
7.45     " 
7..')0    " 
8.05    " 
8.18     '• 

0.00   " 

7.1.-)    '« 

7..30    " 

8.00    " 

8.00    " 

8.18     " 

8..35    " 

7.00    " 

9.00    •« 

9.13    " 

9.26    " 

9.41     " 

9  55    " 

10.17     " 

10.12     " 

10.44     '' 

10.59     " 

11.27    " 

11. .38     *< 

11. iW     " 

12.00   M. 

Lanr'Jister 

62.00  P.M. 

So.  Lancaster 

DaUnii 

Whitefield 

7.30    " 
845    " 
9.00     " 
9.30    " 
9..30    " 
9.47     " 

10.10    " 
8.30    " 

10.30    " 

Crawford  House 

Fabvan  Hou.se 

White  Mountain  House  . 

Twin  Mt.  Station...    

Sinclair  House  ..      

B'^tlileliem 

Wine  Road 

I'rolile  House 

Littleton 

No.  Lisbon 

Lisbon 

Bith 

•\\T  „i  -ii             Arrive.... 

woodviiie....   Lea/e;.;; 

Wells  River 

Haverhill  and  Newbury.. 

6.11 
6.25 
650 
7.00 
7.12 
7.20 

is 
<( 
« 
(< 

East  Haverhill 

Warren  

12.03  P.M. 

Wentworth 

West  Rumney 

llumney , 

Quincy 

P''-™"' {Leav"e.V 

Bridgewater 

A12.45    " 
1  15    " 

/« 12.22  P.M. 
1.03     •' 

(17.45    " 
7.30  a.m. 

5.10  AM.. 

Ashland 

1.17    •' 
1.J7    " 
10.15  A.M. 
7.20    " 
8.00    " 

i!48"p.M. 

2.00     " 
2.05    " 
2.19     " 
2.28    " 
2.40    " 
2.48     " 

7.45 

8.08 
5.30 

5.24    •• 

Meredith  Village 

5.47    " 

Woliboro' 

10.15  A.M. 
7.20     " 
8.00    " 
1.00  P.M. 
2.00    «' 
2.14    " 
2.19    " 

No.  Conway 

West  Opsipee 

Centre  Harbor 

7.30 
8.25 
8.39 
8.44 
8.57 
9.07 
9.25 
9.35 

t< 
t( 
(t 
K 
<( 

<( 

(( 

Weirs,  (steamboat) 

Lake  Village 

5.58    '« 
6.09    " 

Laconia 

6.13    "' 

EastTilton 

6.27    " 

Tilton 

2.40    " 

6.36    " 

Northfield , ... 

6.51     " 

Canterbury. 

7.01    '• 

Nort  h  Concord 

East  Concord 

3.20    ♦• 
3.27     " 

9.58 
10.05 
10.15 

«        i 

"        1 

7.20    '• 

(  Arrive.. 

Concord^ j  Leave. . 

( Leave.. 

.3.20    '« 

^3.25    '' 

3.40    '• 

7.25    '• 
T.30    •• 

*3.40   *•• 

Trains  south -if avf   liKx.TrHiuT 


!^f ;inr,lieHter, ii-ave. 

Lawrence 

Nashua 

Lowell 

Haverliill 

l)ovor 

Portsmouth .. 

Newburyport 

Salem. 

So.  Framiii^hiim  

THiinton 

Fall  Klver 

Newport,  K.  I 

Provifloncft.  

Xow  Bedford 

Wort!»^st«'r 

Ntnv  London 

Sprliistield  

Ha  t  ford 

New  Haven. 

l^)ston,  11.  &  M.  Depot.    . 

Boston,  Lowell  Depot 

New  York,  all  rail 

via  Norwich  Line 

Sfrs.,  Pier  40  N.  Klver. 
JI.  Y.,  via  Fall  River  Strs., 

Pier  28  North  River 


n.80 

4.30 
5.30 
«.2« 

<).I5 
«.55 
7.(H) 
(}.15 
7.40 
8.20 
8.10 
8.20 
8.25 
fi.fK) 
10.  If) 
8.15 
1.20 
2.40 
6.29 
6.2.-3 
5.25  A.M 


(< 
i< 
*< 
<( 
<i 

ii 
(( 
t> 

it 

t< 


>• 
t« 
a 
«« 
(I 
(< 

«i 

•  ( 


«< 

i< 


Noa  lit  Minn  lUnroail— Conoluh'.L 

H.X.  TiHiii  I   ^c.  TrHlii' 

10.58    •' 
12.15  P.M. 
11.45  A.M. 


Ml.  Irani 

4.20 
5.30 
4.58 
5.30 
6.26 
6.17 
6.15 
6.55 
7  00 
6.15 
7.40 
8.20 
8.10 
8.20 
8.25 
7.10 
10.15 


A.M.I 

"      I 

P.M.! 


1.26  A.M. 
2.40     '• 
6,20  P.M. 
6.2;j    " 
6.25  A.M. 


N.  Y., 


5.00 
5.00 


5.00 


6.00 


8.15 


12.15 

i.;w 
/.{.oO 

•  ■  •      •     ( 

2.15 
1.45 
l..{5 
;J.I8 
4.46 
5.25 

;j..io 

4.08 
2.00 


P.M. 


(4 

<i 
t< 
l< 
<( 
<( 
<( 
(( 


0.00 
0.30 


10.10 


6.15 
7.20 
S.M 
1.15 
1.15 
11.12 


« 

<< 

<< 


10.35 


rtAlso  leave  Glen  House  at  5.00  P.M.,  Oorhara  6.05  p.m.  via  Northumber- 
land Junction,  arrivittfjat  Lancaster  8.15  p.m. 

^Passengers  from  Glen  House  and  Portland  by  this  train,  havean  hour  for 
dinner  at  Lancaster  House,  Lanca.ster,  before  leavinj;  on  the  afternoon  ex- 
press f(»r  Crawford,  Pabyan.  Tvvin  Mountain,  White  Mountain,  Profile  and 
Pemigewasset  Houses,  Bethhiliem,  Littleton  and  Plymouth. 

cCJ'iebec  and  Montreal  Day  Express  via  Northumberland  Junction  arriv- 
ing at  principal  White  Mountain  Houses,  inclu'Ung  the  Mount  Washington 
House  in  time  for  tea. 

f/Pa-sengers  arriving  by  the  train  lodge  at  Pemigewasset  House  and  can 
proceed  at  5.10  a.m.  and  7.30  a.m.  the  following  morning. 

cNew  York  Expres.s  via  Nashua— Passengers  for  Worcester,  Springfield, 
Hartford,  New  Haven,  Norwicli.  New  London,  South  Framingham, 
Providence,  Taunton,  New  Bedford,  Fall  River  and  Newport  take  this  train. 

/Via  Lawrence. 

_r/Via  Concord  and  Portsmouth  Railroad. 

/tThirty  minutes  for  dinner  at  Pemigewasset  House. 

iPassengers  by  this  train  can  leave  Lancaster,  Littleton,  and  the  Moun* 
tain  liouses  after  the  usual  breakfast  liour,  and  arrive  in  Manchester,  Law- 
rence, Dover,  Torfsmouth,  Hampton  Beach,  Nashua,  Worcester,  Provi- 
dence, Taunton,  New  Bedford,  Fall  River,  Salem,  and  Boston  in  time  for 
supper. 

/Passengers  for  Dover,  Portsmouth,  and  Hampton  Beach,  changes  care  at 
^iancheste^  for  Concord  aud  Portsmouth  Railroad. 

Passengers  for  Salem  change  cars  at  Lowell. 

Passengers  for  Fitchburg  change  cars  at  Ayer's  Junction. 

Elegant  Parlor  Cars  run  through  from  all  stations  on  Boston,  Concord, 
Montreal  and  White  Mountain  Railroad,  to  Boston  via  Lowell.  New 
London  via  Worcester,  Fall  River  and  Newport  via  Nashua  and  Acton 
Railroad. 

OFFICERS* 

J.  E.  LYON,  President';  *BOST0N. 

J.  A.  DODGE,  Supt.  C.  M.  WHITTIER,  Cashier,  PLYMOUTH,  N.  H. 

W.  R.  BRACKETT,  G.T.A. ;  J.  L.  ROGERS,  G.F.A. 


OOMDSXrSED    TIME    TABX<XI 

Passumx^sic     Railroad . 


SUMMER   SEA  SO  J^,   1873. 


A      J»" 


'•■m. 


Leave  New  York,  all  rail,  Graml  Central 
Depot, 

New  York,  New  Haven 
boat, 

New  York,  New  London  boat 


Mall. 


8.00  p.ni 


Boston.  Ivowfll  Depot, 
do.    B.  &  M.  do. . 


Arrive 
Leave 


Arrive 

Leave 

Arrive 

Leave 

Arrive 

Leave 

Arrive 

Leave 
Arrive 


Arrive 


do.  Fitchburg  do 

Bridgeport, , 

New  Haven, 

Hartford, 

Springfield, 

do.         

New  London, 

Palmer, • . 

Greenfield, 

Brattleboro, 

New  Bedford, 

Providence, 

Newport,  R.  I., 

Fail  River, 

Fitchburg, 

Keene, 

Bellows  Falls, 

Lowell 

Worcester, 

Salem, 

Nashua, 

Great  Falls, 

Portsmouth, 

Lawrence, 

Manchester,  

Concord,  

White   River  Junction 

do.         do.  

Wells  River, 

Wells  River, 

Newport, 

do 

Sherbrooke, < 

Richmond,  

do 

Montreal,    via    Grand    Trunk 

Railway, 

Quebec,    via    Grand    Trunk 

Railway, 

Montreal,    via   South    Eastern 

Railway, , 


3.15 

6.(M) 

8.00 

730 

7.30 

10.30 

11.1.') 

12.40 

*1.40 

8.00 

5.00 

t8.25 

9.35 

10.30 

5.50 

6.15 

5.00 

5.45 

9.15 

10.40 

11.45 

8.48 

7.30 

7.00 

9.19 

7.,35 

7.55 

8.25 

9.52 

10..% 

tl.l5 

1..55 

3.30 

3.45 

7.00 
9.04 
2.00 
2.45 


p.m 
p.m 
a.m 
a.m 
a.m 
p.m 
p.m 
a.m 
a.m 
a.m 
a.m 
a.m 
a.m 
a.m 
a.m 
am 
a.m 
a.m 
a.m 
a.m 
a.m 
a.m 
a.m 
a.m 
a.m 
a.m 
a.m 
a.m 
a.m 
a.m 
p.m 
p.m 
p.m 
p.m 
p.m 
p.m 
p.m 
a.m 
a.m 


Nt.  Ex. 


3.00  p.m 


6.00 
5.00 
5.30 
4.58 
6.45 
7.02 
7.45 
8.20 
2-45 
6.20 
9.a5 
10.20 
3.40 
4.15 


7.35 
9.20 

11.20 
6.51 
4.20 
5.00 
7.30 
5.05 
5.10 
6.05 
8.05 
8.50 

12.10 
1.00 


p.m 
p.m 
p.m 
p.m 
p.m 
p.m 
p.m 
p.m 
p.m 
p.m 
p.m 
p.m 
p.m 
p.m 


p.m 
p.m 
p.m 
p.m 
p.m 
p.m 
p.m 
p.m 
p.m 
p.m 
p.m 
p.m 
a.m 
a.m 


5.15  a.m 

7.10  a.m 

f8.20  a.m 

8.50  a.m 


I 


6.50  a.m    12.30  p.m 


Day  Kx. 


8.20  a.m 

10.00  a.m 

10.15  a.m 

tl.03  p.m 

1.45  p.m 

3.50  p.m 

5.10  p.m 

5.30  p.m 

8.45  p.m 


8.00  a.m  ;    3.00  p.m      9.20  p.m 

I  ' 

I  10.30  a.m  '    7.00  p.m 


♦Lodge. 


tStop  for  mealB. 


Passumpsic  Railroad  Time   Table — Qm. 


Mail. 


Leave  Motitrejil,    via   South   EaHteni 

liiiilway...... 

Montreal,  via   Grand  Trunk 
Kailway, 

Quebec,   via   Grand  Trunk 

Railway, 

Arrive  Richmond 

Leave   Kichnjond, 

Sljerbr(M)ke, 

Arrive  New j»ort;,   

Leave  Newport,   

Arrive  WelJH  Klver, 

Leave  Wellg  River, 

Arrive  White  River  Jtinetion 

Leave  White  River  Junction 

Arrive  Conconi, 

Manchegter, 

Lawrence, 

Portsinoutlj, 

Great  Falls 

Nashua, 

Salem, • 

Worcester, 

Lowell,   

Bellows  Falls, 

Kcene, 

Fit(;hburg, 

Fall  River, 

Newi)ort,   R.  I., 

Providence, 

New  Bedford, 

Brattleboro', 

Greentteld, 

Palmer, 

New  London, 

Spriiigtield, 

Leave  Springtield,  

Arrive  Harttonl, 

New  Haven, • 

Bridgeport,   

Boston,  Lowell  Depot 

do     B.  &M.  do    

do  Fitchburg  do    

New  York,  via   New  London 
boat, 

New  York,  via  New  Haven  boat.. . 

New  York,  all  rail,  Grand  Central 
depot, 


10.00  p.ni 


8.00 
2.00 
2..10 
4..V) 

•«.30 
7.06 

lO.(H) 

10.15 
•II.W 

12.20 
3.25 
4.18 
5..30 
6.15 
6.32 
6.00 
7.00 
6.. 30 
5.35 
2..'W) 
3.2,3 
4..'S5 
8.34 
9.10 
8.10 
9.30 
3.30 
4.30 
5.48 
9.a5 

*6.05 
6.30 
7.-.'0 
8..30 
9.05 
6.20 
6.29 
7.10 


p.m 
a.m 
a.m 
a.m 
a.m 
a.m 
a.m 
a.m 
a.m 
p.m 
p.m 
p.m 
p.m 
p.Mi 
p.m 
p.m 
p  m 
p.m 
p.m 
p.m 
I>.m 
p.m 
p.m 
p.m 
p.m 
p.m 
p.m 
p.m 
i>.m 
p.m 
p.m 
p.m 
p.m 
p.m 
p.m 
p.m 
p.m 
p.m 


5.00  a.m 
5.00  a.m 

11  20  p.m 


Nt.  Ex. 

3.15  p.m 

1.45  p.m 

12..30  p.m 
•5.15  p.m 
5  45  p.m 
7.10  p.m 
8.40  p.m 
8.55  p.m 


11.40 
124 
1..30 
5.20 
6.10 
7..M) 
10.10 
10..33 
7.00 
8..'50 
9.20 
7.40 
3.30 
4.51 
6.30 
2.08 

12.00 
1.20 
4.22 
6.14 
8.10 

11  15 

♦6..30 
7.00 
8.10 
9.45 

10.25 
8.30 
8.35 
8.35 


p.m 
a.m 
a.m 
a.m 
a.m 
a.m 
a.m 
a.m 
a.m 
a.m 
a.m 
a.m 
a.m 
a.m 
a.m 
p.m 

m. 

p.m 

ii.ni 

a.m 

a.m 

a.m 

a.m 

a.m 

a.m 

a.m 

a.m 

a.m 

a.m 

a.m 


12.45  p.m 


IMyEx. 

7.30  a.m 

7.00  H.m 

6.30  a.m 
10..35  a.m 
10  45  a.m 
11.40  a.m 

1.25  p.m 
3..')0  p.m 
3.45  p.m 
•5.22  p.m 
5.30  p.m 
8.07  p.m 
8.49  p.m 


9.25  p.m 


9.65  p.m 
9.50  p.m 


10.50  p.m 


•Stop  for  meals. 


W.  M.  PARKER,  Superintendent. 

N.  P.  LOVERING,  Jk.  W.  M.  CLARK,  A«E>T, 

Gen.  Ticket  Agent.  87  Washington  St.,  Boston, 


JEFFEE 


HILL  HOOSE. 


Th\n  HoU'l  Ir  vt'iy  iiloiiHimtly  loruttMl  on  JflVcrson  llitl,  one-fourtli  mile 
wcittui  ly  from  thu  WaumlHjk  1Iuuh«,  coiuummltf  thu  IIiichI  viuwit  of  tUu 

White  Mountains,  Franconia  Mcuntain:,  Jefferson  Meadows, 

Bandolph  Hills,  Whitefield  Hills,  Starr-King 

^Mountain,  Cherry  Mountain,  &c. 

of  any  ill  the  vicinity. 

It  is  entirely  new,  tliree  utorlcn  liiyli,  mu\  contHliis  ample  aciuminuMliilion 
for  about  onu  lmii<lre<l  gueHt;'.  The  rooms  are  clean  and  spaclouH,  and  are 
all  Hupplied  with  new  furniture.  Wo  employ  experienced  and  attentive 
waiters.  The  Table  is  always  well  supplied  wllli  the  bust  the  market 
atlurdf).  Plenty  of  berries,  iivw  milk,  good  butter,  fresh  vegetables.  A 
g<KMl  Livery  Stable  is  kept  by  the  proprietors,  near  by.  Wo  will  meet 
families  or  parties  at  the  cars,  who  engage  rooms  at  our  House,  whenever 
desired. 

Kspccial  attention  is  called  to  the  fact  that  Jt  fferson  Hill  has  become 
Justly  celebrated  a.s  »  resort  for  invalids  during  the  hot  months.    A  short 
residence  here  at!ords  an  absolute  cure  to  those  suffering  from  asthma,  rose 
cold  or  hay  fever.    We  refer  to  Dr.  Wynmn's  late  work  on  the  subject  Of 
Autun.nal  Catarrh,  in  proof  of  our  assertions. 

We  respectfully  assure  all  thoeo  who  favor  ug  with  their  i)atronage,  that 
o  efforts  will  be  spared  to  render  their  stay  both  agreeable  and  comfortable. 

Those  designing  to  take  roomw  at  the  Jefferson  Hill  House  will  do  well  to 
corresi)ond  with  the  proprietors  as  to  rooms  and  prices,  which  are  as  low  a> 
any  first-clasa  boarding-house. 

The  House  will  be  open  July  1st,  1873. 


*  m  m  »-»- 


ADDRESS, 


LANCASTER,    N.  H. 


Eocky  Point  Hotel 


RHODE    ISLAND. 


ON 


H 


UROPEAN      PLAN 


This  well  known  and  popular  Sinniner  Itesort  situated  on  Nar- 
ragaiisett  Bay,  l)etween  the  cities  of  Providence  and  Newport, 
will  be  open  for  the  reception  of  guests  June  2r)th.  To  meet  the 
^Mowing  demands  of  the  public,  the  capacity  of  the  House  has 
been  increased  since  last  season,  by  the  aildilion  of  a  number  of 
rooms,  all  large,  airy,  and  newly  furnished.  A  new  hestauraut 
of  an  increased  seating  capacity  has  also  been  atlded.  Eight 
Steamboats  a  day  from  Providence  and  Newport. 

For  information  in  regard  to  terms,  etc.,  address 


li.    H.    'aOWtWItMMWB 


City  Hotel,  Providence,  E.  I 


PROVIDENCE,    R.    I. 


L.   H.    HUMPHREYS, 


PROPRIETOR. 


EAST  PROVIDENCE,   R.  I. 


HOPKINS  &  SEARS,  Proprietors. 

This  new  and  elegant  Hotel  is  situated  on  the  Muff  near  Ceder  Grove^ 
and  commands  a  most  delightful  view  of  the  beautiful  Nai  ragansett  Bay, 
while  the  City  of  Providence,  only  live  miles  away,  is  in  full  sight. 

The  DINING  ROOMS  are  large  and  commoiiious,  on  the  European  plan, 
and  will  seat  two  hundred  people.  The  Halls  are  wide  and  airy,  and  the- 
rooms  are  large,  well  ventilated,  lighted  throughout  with  gas,  and  supplied 
with  hot,  cold  and  ice  water. 

PUBLIC  STABLES  are  located  but  a  short  distance  from  the  Hotels 
where  good  accommodations  are  provided  for  private  teams. 

This  beautiful  and  attractive  summer  resort  cannot  be  excelled  on  Nar- 
ragansett  Bay,  combining  as  it  does  every  advantage  to  be  desired  for  a 
summer  residence,  easy  of  access,  only  one  half  hour's  sail  from  Provi- 
dence, with  excellent  facilities  for  batu..ig,  lishing,  boating  or  drivings 
All  these  combine  to  make  this  one  of  the  ii-ost  delightful  watering  places 
in  the  world. 

A  new  and  substantial  Wharf  has  been  constructed,  projecting  1,125  feet 
into  the  Bay,  at  which  all  the  steamers  stop.  It  is  within  one  minute's 
walk  of  the  hotel,  and  affords  a  delightful  promenade  on  summer  even- 
ings, and  is  a  capital  place  for  fishing. 

Cars  leave  Provide  ce  for  Riverside  at  7.30,  9.42  A.  M.,  1.00,  2.55,  4.30  and 
r..20  P.  M. ;  leave  Riverside  for  Providence  at  6.17,  8.02,  9.42  a.  m.,  1.48,  3.27 
and  5.18  p.  m.;  cars  leave  Fall  River  for  Riverside  at  7.10,  8.50  A.  M.,  1.00, 
4.30  and  6.20  P.  M. ;  leave  Riverside  for  Fall  River  at  7  50,  10.05  A.  M.,  1.20,. 
3.15,  4.50  and  6.40  P.  M.  The  Station  is  less  than  three  minutes'  walk  from 
the  hotel.  All  the  steamboats  on  the  Bay  will  stop  at  the  Riverside  wharf^ 
affording  hourly  communication  with  Providence.  - 

For  rooms,  apply  personally  or  by  letter  to 

HOPKINS  &  SEAES, 

rvoprielors  of  theSjtntral  Uot»I,  Providencp,  R.  I, 


otter  Creek  House, 

L.    F.    SCOFIELD,    Proprietor. 


This  House  has  just  been  completed,  and  furnished  in  a  style 
and  manner  especially  adapted  to  the  comfort  and  convenience  ot 
its  occupants.  Its  rooms  are  spacious  and  airy.  Its  two  lower 
stories  are  surrounded  by  over  five  hundred  feet  of  verandas  in 
length  and  ten  feet  in  width,  looking  out  upon  pictures  of  the 
greatest  natural  beauty,  where  may  be  inhaled  pure  and  health- 
giving  air,  as  it  descends  from  its  uncontaminated  mountain 
home,  while  the  murmurings  of  the  beautiful  Otter  Creek  fill 
every  room  in  the  house  v*^ith  soothing  melody. 

CHESHIRE  HOTEL, 

FinWILLIAM,  N.  H. 


0.  K.  WHEELOCK,      -       -      Proprietor. 


High  land,  pure  air,  beautiful  scenery,  pleasant  drives;  Mt. 
Monadnock,  only  four  miles  distant,  in  full  view;  good  livery; 
pure  spring  water ;  first-class  table. 

TEEMS    TROM    $10   TO    $20    PEE   WEEK. 

Three  Ilours^  Rid«  from   Boston. 

I 


ROCKWELL  HOUSE, 

GLENS  FALLS,  N.  1\ 


This  fine  new  hotel,  pleasantly  and  desirably  located  in  the 
beautiful  village  of  Glens  Falls,  N.  Y.,  is  now  open  for  the 
Summer  season.  Visitors  will  enjoy  all  the  comforts  and 
luxuries  of  a 

riRST-OLASS  AND  FINELY  APPOINTED  HOTEL, 

and  also  the  beautiful  and  romantic  scenery  in  the  vicinity, 
including  the  celebrated  Falls,  the  drives  to  Lake  George, 
etc. 

ROCKWELL  BROTHERS.  Proprietors. 


LAKE   DUNMORE   HOUSE, 

SALISBUEY,  VT. 


This  fine  summer  hotel  on  the  borders  of  the  clear  andbeautiiul 

LAKE    DUNMORE, 

\ 
Eight  miles  from  Middlebury  and  nine  from  Brandon,  Yt., 
affords  the  most  complete  and  satisfactory 

ACCOMMODATION  TOE  GUESTS  DUEING  THE  SEASON. 

E.  P  HITCHCOCK,  Proprietor. 


THE 


CLARENDOiN  HOTEL, 

321  ^  5i3  Fremont  BUp 


IS  KOW  OPEV  AS  A 

FIRST  CLASS   TEANSIENT  HOUSE, 

Offering  to  the  traveling  public  attrPctionB,  facilltfes  and  comforts  not  infe- 
rior to  the  beft  and  most  noted  hotels  in  tbe  city.  The  location  of  the  house 
is  fine  and  ccutral,  hi  uated  as  it  is  on  one  of  the*  widest,  pleasantest,  and  most 
traveled  avenues  in  the  city,  and  at  tlie  junction  ot  feveral  prominent  thor- 
oughfares. Horse  cars  pass  the  door  to  all  parti  of  the  city  day  and  evening; 
and  the  proximity  of  the  hotel  to  the  Common  and  Public  Garden,  the  chief 
churches  of  the  city,  its  noted  public  building?,  and  all  places  of  interest  and 
amusement,  gives  it  unusual  lecommendation  to  all  classes  ot  guests.  Its 
rooms,  both  ungle  and  en  suite,  are  large  and  airy,  the  furiiisLiiig  and  appoint- 
ments of  the  best,  and  tho  table  of  already  well  esiablished  excellence,  while 
©very  convenience  of  a  modern,  tirst-class  hotel  pertains  to  the  house. 

As  a  FAMILY  HOTEL  it  has  coiitiuuously  maintained  the  highest  popn- 
larity. 


THE  WESTEEN  UNION  TELEGRAPH  00. 

Has  a  Branch  Office  in  the  honse,  so  that  its  guests  bare  the  advantage  of  quick 
communication  to  all  parts  of  the  city  and  country. 


BY  THE    DAY,   WEEK,   MONTH    OR    YEAR, 

TRANSIENT  BOARD,  $3.50  ANO  $4.50  PER  DAY. 


J.  PIOKEEING  DRAPER,  -  -  Proprietor. 

12 


Se^Msigliam  B®as®< 


By  G.  W.  &  J.  S.  PIERCE. 


PORTSMOUTH,    N.    H. 


Not  excelled  by  any  hotel  in  New  England  for  elegance  and 
completeness  in  every  department.  This  house  is  becoming 
popular  among  summer  travelers  as  headquarters  while  visit- 
ing Kye,  Hampton,  York  or  Wells  Beaches,  either  of  which  is 
within  a  pleasant  drive.  Yachts,  with  experienced  skippers, 
to  take  guests  to  the  Isles  of  IShoals,  the  Harbor,  or  up  the 
riscataqua.  Direct  communication  by  railroad  to  the  moun- 
tains and  lakes  of  New  Hampshire  and  Maine.  5^" 


THE  rraEST  BILLIAKD  HALL  IN  THE  STATE. 


Coaches    at    Eastern    and    Concord     Depots. 


BwW 


oil  nil 


« 


$ 


OPPOSITE  THE  DEPOTS, 


ORTH   ADAMS,  MASS 


A  NEW  AND  FIEST  CLASS  HOUSE. 


M.  BALLOU  &  SON, 


Proprietors. 


Hoosac  Tunnel  Stages  leave  this  House  at  4.30  and  10  A.M. 
Arrive  at  3  and  8.30  P.M. 


MANSION  HOUSE, 

CHARLES  L.   CARTER,     -     -     -     -     Proprietor. 


COACfl  AT  DEPOT  ON  ARRIVAL  OF  EACH  TttilN. 

A   large  and  first-class  LIVERY   connected   with 

the  House. 


This  house  is  located  in  one  of  the  pleasantest  villai;es  of  Now  England. 
First-class  in  all  its  apyoiutmcnts.    Drives  in  this  vicinity  are  unsurx>a88»d. 

Twenty-three  milod  from  Boston  on  Boston  &  Maine  R.  R. 


^ 


i^^m^^? 


TAUNTON,    MASS. 


A.  L.  FIiISS,       -        -        -       Proprietor. 


OBXTTBAZiZiir      ZaO  GATED. 


EOOMS     LAEGE    A'ND    AIEY. 


FIRST-CLASS  IN  ALL  ITS  ARRANGEMENTS. 


Books  and  Stationery, 

In  every  department,  Wholesale  and  Setai!, 

SUPPLIED  BY 

NOTES,  HOLMES  &  Co. 

AT  THEIR  NEW  WARE  ROOMS, 

219  Washington  and  10  Bromfield  Streets, 

BOSTON,      MASS. 


A  PEEPEOT  AETIOLE  TOR  OFFICE  AND  FAMILY  USE. 


THE 


Congress  Iia[ucilage 

Manufactuvd  onltf  by  Xoyts,  Ilolmtt  A  Co. 

It  is  Ruperior  to  all  others,  becvuso  it  is  always  sure  to  sfick,  is  always 
ready  for  use,  the  liquid  is  always  clear  aii<'  sweet,  best  matoriHls  only  art 
used,  taken  to  hot  climates  it  will  keep,  no  otlier  will  endure  this  test, 
other  makers  have  tried  to  discov«  r  the  secret  *ind  faded.  This  is  the 
ONLV  MITCILAOK  that  will  not  lerniont,  lU'  uld,  or  become  fo'ir.  The  new 
CONGKES.S  IJOTTLE  is  very  attractive  and  cmivenient.  Se-rurely  packed 
for  Export  or  for  Domestic  Lse,  and  sold  wholesale  and  retail  at 

NOYES,  HOLMES  &  CO.'S. 

STANDARD  INK. 

.7JS?T  HIJACK  UVK— Flows  freely  and  a  permanent  JET  BLACK 
color. 

JtAILJiOAJD  COPYING  INK—\V)ll  give  from  six  to  tw«lve 
legible  copies. 

C-J i2J»/JA"^  JA^iS:  —  Of  the  most  brilliant  color. 

VIOLET  iA'/f— Th«  very  best  of  the  kind.  Very  haadeome  color, 
flows  freely.  a»d  copies  ijerftctiy. 

2JX  UJE  lA'K  —  III  various  attractive  styles. 

Ask  for  INK  and  MUCII1A.GE  manufactured  by  NOYES, 
HOIiMEo  &  CO.,  and  you  will  QJET  THE  BEST. 

NOYES,  HOLME-S  $e  CO., 

219  Washington  Street,  and  10  Bromfield  Street, 
TBOSTOKT- 


TH  E 


FABTAN  HOUSE 


WHITE  MOUNTAINS,  N.  H. 


This  new  and  flrst-class  hotel  just  opened  to  the  public,  is 
situated  near  the  junction  of  tli  e  Mount  Washington  Turnpiko 
and  the  road  to  the  White  Mountain  Notch.  It  is  almost 
identical  in  location  with  the  old  building,  destroyed  in  1858. 
Its  location  and  the  delightful  ex  cursions  in  its  near  vicinity 
make  it  especially  desirable  to  those  wishing  to  enjoy  the  finest 
views  of  the  mountains,  the 

AND  TUE  DRIVK  TIinOUGH  THE 

WORLD    FAMOUS    NOTCH. 


All  provisions  for  the  comfort  of  guests  have  been  made  and* 
a  large  farm  connected  with  the  house  supplies  milk,  produce 
and  other  seasonable  luxuries. 

The  proprietors,  Mr.  Walcott,  late  of  the  Crawford  House, 
Mr.  Lindsay,  late  of  the  Eagle  Hotel,  Concord,  and  Mr.  J.  M. 
French,  late  of  the  Pemigewasset  House,  Plymouth,  confidently 
invite  the  attention  of  their  frien  ds  and  former  guests  to  their 
new  and  delightful  hotel. 

Address 

White  Mountains,  N.  H. 


aimjim  HOUSE, 

WOLFBOROUGH,  N.  H. 

J.L.PEAVEY,      -      -      Proprietor. 


-♦♦♦- 


This  new,  commodious  and  attractive  liotel, 

On  the  Shores  of  Lake  Winnipesaukee, 

is  finely  located  in  this  picturesque  lake  town,  is  lighted  with  gaa 

throughout,  has 

BILLIARD  ROOMS  CONNECTED, 

Electric  Bell  arrangement,  and  all  the  requisites  for  the  comfort 

and  pleasure  of  guests. 

Livery  Stable   Connected  with  the  House, 

giving  facilities  for  the  fine  drives  in  the  vicinity. 

SAIL.      AND       ROW       BOATS 

for  those  enjoying  boating  and  fishing.    And  steamers  Mouirr 

Washington  and  Lady  of  the  Lakk,  connecting 

for  Centre  Harbor,  Weirs  and  Alton  Bay. 


Eastern  Railroad  Station  directly  opposite  the  house,  giving 

unusual  facilities  for  communication  with 

Boston  and  the  East 


MANCHESTER,  N.  H. 


A.  C.  WALLACE, 


Proprietor. 


H@liB 


BllATTLEBORO,  VT. 


CHAS.  G.  LAWRENCE, 


PROPRIETOR. 


BUCK'S    MOTI^£i» 

LENNOXVILLE,   P.  Q. 

F.    P.    BUCK.      -      -      -      Proprietor. 

JiraOTIOir  OF  GEAND  TEUNK  &  P.  &  0.  E.  S. 
Thu  Hotel  hu  beeu  lUOtted  aad  Kerumiihed  la  flrst-clasi  style. 


MERRIMAC    HOUSE, 

(a:oi:ui:  mont(;(  3iii;t,  r  oirii-'nr, 


No.  100  STATE  STREET,  NEWBURYPORT,  MASS. 


3000 


^j^¥^k^s^' 


10,000  IVoriU  and  irieaiiiu{[s  uot  in  other  Dicll«narieM. 

3,000  Engravings.       1,840  Pages  Quarto.       Price,  $12.00. 

ALSO, 

Webster's  National  Pictorial  Dictionary.    Price,  $5.00. 

VUBLISUED  BY 

G.     &.     O.      MERRIAM, 

'      '  SPRINGFIELD,    MASS. 

Sold  by  all  t^>ok8elie^8.    Either  of  the  above  sent,  charges  paid,  on  receipt 

of  price  by  express. 


miSki 


i 


Purchase  Street,  Corner  Uiddle  and  Elm, 


BULLOCK  &  BROWNELL, 

p.  BULLOCK. 


Proprietors. 

H.  M.  BROWXELL. 


First  Door  North  of  Congress  Hall, 

SxlRATQGA  SPRINGS,  N.Y. 

VAN  PORN  &  WHEELER,  Agents. 

Through  Tickets  to  all  Principal  Points,  North,  East,  South  2i  West. 
Information  cheerfully  given. 

DUSSAULT    &  ROBINSON, 
AND    CLOTHIERS, 


LYIs'DONVILLE,    YT.  - 


%»» iiiiwE  rxj —-.— 


GEORGE    B.  WALKER,   Proprietor. 

This  liouse  is  new,  well  furnished,  and  kept  open  for  night  trains.  Bil- 
liard Tables,  Bowling  Alley,  Hot  and  Cold  Baths,  and  a  good  Livery  con- 
J  ected  with  the  House.     Within  a  minute's  wallc  of  Station. 


fm  ^miMM. 


TB^B    LARGEST! 


TU  E     iJHEA.1*  t. »  T  ! 


THE    BEST  t 


WORCESTER'S  ROYAL  QUARTO  DICTIONARY, 

(Illustrated,)  is  a  massive  volume  of  1854  pages,  and  contains  considcTA- 
bly  more  than  one  hundred  ihoiisand  words  in  its  vocabulary,  with  their 
pronunciati-m.  definition  and  etymology.  Neweditionsof  Worcester'* 
Conipreh«np>lT«  Dicilonnry.  Price  $2.0<>,and  Primnrf  Die  • 
tioiiary,  (illustrated,)  Price  t»a  centn.  have  l>een  recently  issued. 
*•  Worcester's  Pocket  Dictionary,"  just  publithed.  For  sale  by  bookaell^rs 
generally. 

BBEWEB  A  TILESTON,  No.  17  MILK  STREET,  BOSTOH. 


Iitl411i 


WINCHENDON,    MASS. 

H.  A.  CROCKER, Proprietor, 

Opposite    Boston    &   Maine,   Eastern,    Lowell, 
and  Northern  Depois. 


FKANKLIN  HOUSE, 

T.  W.  HUSE,  Proprietor. 


ImAWM 


iZim 


f 


m 


Corner  of  King  and  Wellington  Streets,  SIIERBROOKE,  P.  q. 

p.  A.  CAMIRAND,         -         -  :  .  Proprietor. 


GeNSTBUeTlflN  MB  BALLAST 


Designed   for  Ballasting,   Pilling  Trestle  Work,  Dailding  New   Boadii, 

and  Drairing  Coal, 

is  as  long  and  wide  as  common  platform  cars,  and  can  be  used 
as  sdch  with  entire  safety.    Any  one  that  can  wind  up  a  brake 

can  operate  them,  and  one  man  can  dump  a  whole  train.    The 

ballast  is  left  betwee~>  and  outside  the  rails,  but  not  on  them ; 

thus  leaving  it  just  where  it  is  wanted  without  shoveling.    They 

are  simple,  effective  and  cheap,  and  not  liable  to  get  out  of 

repair.    To  those  who  wish  to  build  tbcir  own  cars,  we  will  send 

working  plans,  specifications  and  patterns,  or  send  a  man  to 

superintend  the  building  of  the  first  car. 


<<•»> 


SSND    FOR    (^g30EI&PTIVe    OIROyi,AR^ 

Wiswell,    Sons    &    Co 

Beebe  Plains,  Orleans  Co.,  Vermont, 

Ob,  Lennoxville,  Pbovince  of  Quebec,  Cajtada- 


Tlroil  Fast  ^ss  TraiDS ! 

THE  MOsT  DIRECT  ROUTE 


TO  AND  FROM 


New  York,  Providence  and^Worcester, 


AXD  THE 


WHlSTi  RIOyP8T4()P8S 


SURE    CONNECTIONS! 

EXCELLENT  ROAD   BED! 

SPEED,  SAFETY  <£  C031L0RT! 

Through  Express  Trains  by  this  line,  via  PRO  VIDRXCE  &  WORCES- 
TER and  WORCESTER  f&  NASHUA  RAILROADS,  conr.ecling  at 
Kaslma  vrith  Through  Express  Trains  to  and  from  the  WHITE  MOUN- 
TAINS.   

TEES    ZSIiEGJLZrT    Fi^SI<OR    CAB. 


Made  expressly  for  this  route,  wiih  all  the  elegancies   dtmanf.ed  Ly  first- 
class  travel.  ^ 

Passengers  for  the  Mountains,  from  New  York,  should  [  fecnre  tickets  via 

PROVIDENCE      6c      WORCESTER. 


WM.  D.  HILTON,  Superintendentri 
WM.  M.  DUEFEE,  Gen'l  Pass.  Agt. 


:XOTICE  . 


Passengers  en- route  for  the  West,  who  tnavel  by  way  of  the 

Great  Pennsylvania  Railroad 

have  the  privilege  of  visiting  and  stopping  over,  for  any  length  of 
time  in  the  cities  of  New  York  and  Philadeiphia, 

WITHOUT     EXTRA    CHARGE. 

Tickets  good  until  used.  Baggage  checked  through.  Heavy 
Steel  Rails.  Suspension  Joints.  Double  Track.  Koad  ballasted 
with  a  bed  of  broken  limestone  twenty  inches  deep.  Cars  lighted 
by  gas  and  heated  by  steam.  Freedom  from  Dust  and  the  action  of 
Frost.  Ironor  Stone  Bridges.  No  Trestle-work.  Trains  run  by 
Telegraph.  Perfect  Signal  Service.  VVestingliouse  Air  Brakes 
Pullman  Day  and  Sleeping  Cars  to  Chicago,  Cincinnati,  Indian- 
apolis, Louisville,  St.  Louis,  and  intermediate  points 

WITHOUT  CHANGE, 

and  to  Quincy,  Kansas  City,  Sioux  City,  Omaha,  Cleveland 
Milwaukee,  St.  Paul,  Memphis,  Mobile,  New  Orleans,  and  Den- 
nison,  Texas,  with 

BUT  ONE  CHANGE 

of  Cars.  Continuous  Trains— no  connections  to  miss.  No  Mid- 
night changes.  No  Detention  from  Snow.  Courteous  Employees 
Un-isual  facilities  for  superior  Meals  at  suitable  hours. 

UNEQUALLED  in  Structure,  Equipment,  Speed,  Comfort, 
and  Security.  Unrivalled  in  beauty  and  variety  of  Scenery. 
Kates  always  as  Low  as  by  any  other  route. 


TO  ALL  POII^TS  IN  THE 

WESTERN  AND  SOUTHERN  STATES 

FOR  SALE    AT 

77  and  79    Washington  Street,  Boston, 

And  principal  Ticket  Offices  m  New  England. 

CYEUS  S.  HALDEMAN,  New  England  Agent. 


9fABn^J^f   ACTO^ 


— AND — 


Boston     Railroad. 


Tlie  ino.<t  direct  Line  between 


WITHOUT  CHANGE  OF  CARS! 

WHl'J^E    MOUNTAIN     LmE. 


Tills  Il'^ad  Ih  the  connf  rting  link  between  the  Concord  R.  R.  at  Nashua, 
and  the  Framingliam  and  Lowell  K.  U.  at  Concord  Junction,  making  the 
most  direct  route  from 

Newport,  Fall  Kiver,  New  Bedford,  Taunton,  Ston- 

ington  and  Providence 

XO      THE      Vt^IIIXE      310UINTAINN. 

Paasengors  from  New  York  by  thtyl'ail  River  Line  pass  over  this  route  in 
the 

SFIiENDZD    X'iLRI.OR    OARS 


provided  for  tliis  route,  and  new  and  elegant  pnppcnger  Coaches,  making 
the  trip  from  Fall  River  to  the  White  Mountains  Wiihont  Ckanj|«.  f» 
Leave  Fall  River  on  arrival  of  Boat  from  New  York.  Papsengers  from 
Boston  leave  from  Fitchburg  Depot,  connecting  at  Concord  Junction  with 
trains  north,  reaching  Profile,  Ci^awford  or  Twin  Mountain  Hou^e6  same 
afternoon. 


PETER  B.  BRIGHAH, 
ED.  H.  SPALDING,  . 
STANLEY  MANSFIELD, 


P^sident. 

.       .       .  Vice-President. 

'}         ....     Superintendent. 

A.  P.  BUG  BEE, General  Freight  Arent. 

B.  X.  BOWEN General  Ticket  Agent. 


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ST.  LOUIS  STKte, 


qu]ie:ke(D. 


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WILLIS  nUSSELL, 


JPROmiBTOB. 


Thto  Hotel,  wWeb  is  unrivalled  for  size,  $i^e  •ndtofi^H^l  in 
Opea  through  the  year  ft>r  pleasuia  and  bq^iiieBft'^Te],        ^ 

Itteeligttly  situated  near  to,  and  suTrounded  by  4he  most  4«Ii^bi||^ 
fcshionakle  pronienadee,-tUe  Qovernor'B  Garden,  the  Citadel,  the  ii^ 
the  Phice  d'^nhes,  aSid  Durham  Terrace— which  fhniish  the  Bpl«ha*M  ^-mm 
•Ddmafniflcent  scenery  for  which  Quebec  is  so  justly  celebrated,  and  whiS 
pMUrpassedinanyparftofthewiBid. 

;  The  pnq^rietor,  In  returning  ttmnkt  %  the  Tory  libera]  __  ^ 

«^J^ed»  infefBu  the  ^ubfib  ^wfr  th^^^»tti^»^een4faBAii6y^sj^Bi.- 

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